[Epic]

Hi guys,

I have a Pioneer 6950 HU which I have been using since 5 years now. I have always had alternator whine from day one but it has not been very audible bcoz my JBL components were anyway not producing detailed sound. I had JBL 6X9s at the rear. I ignored this. Installation is fine with power cables and RCAs running seperately apart on either side of the car. Now, I recently upgraded my speakers to Morel Tempos and the alternator whine & hiss is very audible now. This could be bcoz the speakers are more sensitive and clearer than my previous JBLs. So during the installation, I had the installer ground loop the RCAs at the rear of the HU like shown in the pic on this forum, the whine was less audible like before but hiss was still there.

Now I went out of station and happened to hit a hard bump and started getting very bad alternator whine and engine noise. I can even hear a sound/whine when I operate my windsheild washer spray!! This is really irritating and I just can't seem to enjoy my beautiful music system.

What should I do? Kindly help please!!

[jaguar9]

Originally Posted by rocksterraghu

If that really is the problem, how about using an audio isolator? That would be a better way of doing it, wouldn't it?

I don't think running the wires around RCA female sockets is a great idea when we're spending thousands on the RCA cables, IMO.






Construction:
A ground loop isolator contains an isolation transformer for each channel. The transformers generally have a 1:1 ratio which neither boosts nor cuts the audio level. The audio is magnetically coupled through the transformer's core. Since DC can not flow the transformer, the DC path is cut and the noise is eliminated.


Taken from here:

Ground Loop Isolators

More here:

Audio isolators


I would however, first suggest that you check for any leaks in the RCA and the grounding of the amplifiers first.

I have read about this "Ground Loop Isolator" long time back, from the same source. I have been searching this product in Bangalore since quite long. But with no success. Moreover people dont even have a idea as to what this is.

Can someone help me procure this this in India

Regards

[Kenpachi]

I recently upgrade my car's ICE. It sounds good, but I can further improve it. One problem that is bugging me is this alternator whine. So I decided to make my own RCA cables.

Based on what I've read, Sommer + Neutrik seems like a very good option.

I'm thinking of using any of these cables -
http://sommercable.com/2__produkte/2..._300_0022.html
http://sommercable.com/2__produkte/2..._320_0101.html

The Sommer Onyx has a twin construction, so seems better for making RCA cables. For using the Tricone series, I'll have to techflex two cables (left and right channel).

Which one should I use? any other cable suggestions would be great.

[navin]

Originally Posted by Kenpachi

I recently upgrade my car's ICE. It sounds good, but I can further improve it. .

I'm thinking of using any of these cables -
http://sommercable.com/2__produkte/2..._300_0022.html
http://sommercable.com/2__produkte/2..._320_0101.html
..1.

Onyx is better but I dont know if SUN Media has any in stock. Try asking Vishaka (at SUN Media) what she has in stock.

[ramie2400]

Originally Posted by Kenpachi

I recently upgrade my car's ICE. It sounds good, but I can further improve it. One problem that is bugging me is this alternator whine. So I decided to make my own RCA cables.

Based on what I've read, Sommer + Neutrik seems like a very good option.

I'm thinking of using any of these cables -
http://sommercable.com/2__produkte/2..._300_0022.html
http://sommercable.com/2__produkte/2..._320_0101.html

The Sommer Onyx has a twin construction, so seems better for making RCA cables. For using the Tricone series, I'll have to techflex two cables (left and right channel).

Which one should I use? any other cable suggestions would be great.

What is the configuration of your setup and which car? You can use AudioQuest RCA's 5mt.There are better options available then making one.

Ramie

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by Epic

I can even hear a sound/whine when I operate my windsheild washer spray!! This is really irritating and I just can't seem to enjoy my beautiful music system.What should I do? Kindly help please!!

I had experienced this in my previous car, which was a 9 year old used Ford Ikon. No matter what I tried, the whine would not go away. The problem was with the age of the car and nothing else. The all round Blaupunkt Velocity (except head unit) equipment (all new) was a little sensitive to such things which made matters worse. Basically; my car had age going against it. Fixing it would require replacing the entire car wiring harness and maybe the alternator too, all of which would have been way too expensive to do and just to eliminate alternator whine. To keep the whine in control, I turned down the gain on the external amplifier. The source of the whine was from the head unit. I was suggested to take power directly from the battery instead of the car's wiring harness. I did see the problem going away but at a lot of risk. I did not do this.

Without the head unit powered and only the amplifier running, there was no whine. With the head unit powered, all whine was being pushed to the amplifier via the pre out's and further amplified. To improve the situation, the car stereo installer cut off the sub pre out grounding cable. This reduced the problem quite a bit. Surprisingly; the sub still had a working signal going to it.

This is a really hard problem to fix. You should be worried about that engine noise over the whine.

[Kenpachi]

Originally Posted by navin

Onyx is better but I dont know if SUN Media has any in stock. Try asking Vishaka (at SUN Media) what she has in stock.

Hi Navin,

Already got in touch in them and picked up few meters of tricone mk2 and sinus control. They had amphenol connectors, so picked up a couple of those to try.
I have normal solder wire, will that be okay? I tried looking around for 2% silver solder but couldn't find any

Originally Posted by ramie2400

What is the configuration of your setup and which car? You can use AudioQuest RCA's 5mt.There are better options available then making one.
Ramie

Hey Ramie, the car is an i20. Rainbow dreamlines for front stage, kappa 4 amp, kappa 120.9 sub, RCA's - focal and earthquake. I had met you once to discuss ICE configurations at your shop

[::CMS::]

Originally Posted by Kenpachi

I have normal solder wire, will that be okay? I tried looking around for 2% silver solder but couldn't find any

Cardas 4% audio grade silver solder
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARDAS-TRI-E...item1e7e6d2791

[navin]

Originally Posted by Kenpachi

Hi Navin,

Already got in touch in them and picked up few meters of tricone mk2 and sinus control. They had amphenol connectors, so picked up a couple of those to try.

Next time ask them for Neutrik. Usually I order Neutrik silent plugs in lots of 20 along with cable in lots of 50m. The Grindycop Beast and Classique are what I use for my guitars etc. You do not need silent plugs but for instruements it is nice to have so you can unplug the instrument without squeal.

[Kenpachi]

I asked for Neutrik plugs but they only distribute Amphenol Connectors. I picked up 4 of those to test. Searching for Neutrik distributors in Mumbai.
The grindycop Twinbeast is very good, but it wasn't in stock and I was told that it is very expensive.

[navin]

Originally Posted by Kenpachi

The grindycop Twinbeast is very good, but it wasn't in stock and I was told that it is very expensive.

Ask them for HiCon it sells for about 250/pc, I believe the regular Neutrik are also about the same price - the slient ones are about 1200/pc and Grindycop would be about 800/m. Classique is about 300/m. (all prices in INR).

[Kenpachi]

Neutrik is opening a Mumbai branch office by the first week of Jan. Grindycop twinbeast would be ideal for car interconnects. I picked up tricone for 100/m and sinus control for 220/m. The amphenol plugs were for 130/pc (all prices +5% tax). They suggested Amphenol over HiCon (which is a sub brand of connectors by Sommer)

[197Horses]

Hello Bhpians,
Subject : Hissing from tweeters
I have a JBL MS-a1004 Dsp 4-channel amplifier installed in Verna Fluidic with stock head unit and JBL Gt series components installed in all four doors. Since a couple of days i am facing a humming/hissing from speakers even if no song is being played. I got it checked at the place where i installed this system ,initially they said that the problem would be because of ground loop but on inspecting further it was found that the sound continued from speakers even after removing RCA cables from amplifier. So they said that the problem is not of ground loop and the problem remains unsolved. I want to find where the fault is because from the day when this noise started , sound quality has also degraded.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by 197Horses

... Subject : Hissing from tweeters
... Since a couple of days i am facing a humming/hissing from speakers even if no song is being played. I got it checked at the place where i installed this system ,initially they said that the problem would be because of ground loop but on inspecting further it was found that the sound continued from speakers even after removing RCA cables from amplifier. So they said that the problem is not of ground loop and the problem remains unsolved. ...

1. If the hum/hiss is only in the L or R channel, there could be a problem at the corresponding crossover. Open it out and have it cleaned thoroughly - terminals, PCB etc.

2. If the hum/hiss is on both L and R channels, just removing the RCA cables cannot rule out grounding problems. Please ask them to do the amp grounding once again, cleanly

[197Horses]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

1. If the hum/hiss is only in the L or R channel, there could be a problem at the corresponding crossover. Open it out and have it cleaned thoroughly - terminals, PCB etc.

2. If the hum/hiss is on both L and R channels, just removing the RCA cables cannot rule out grounding problems. Please ask them to do the amp grounding once again, cleanly

The problem is in L and R both channels so as you said I will ask them to do amp grounding once again.
Thank You