[praveen_v]

HI all. I came to this forum to find info about cars but when I stumbled upon this ICE section, i stopped reading about cars and started reading about ICEs,amps,comps,subs etc and to tell the truth I have learned a lot about ICE in the last two weeks.

Now from browsing through this forum, I have formed a basic setup which I plan to buy when I get my car soon (I have not decided upon the car yet. This ICE section has taken almost all my time!!!). I am thinking of going for a NHC zxi or a Fiesta 1.4 Zxi petrol in the next 3 months.

Now coming to the ICE setup, first of all my budget is 25K. I have seen many other threads where the only way the budget goes is UP!!!
But i'll not be able to stretch much because I am planning on saving for alloys too!!

The configuration I have considered is
A) Pio 5050 HU
B) JBL GTO607 components for the front
C) JBL GTO627 2 way co-axials for the rear,since i'm going for a sub.
D) JBL GTO 100.4 amp (because by the time I buy, the GTO75.4 might no longer be available, even in grey, and I assume the 100.4 will be equivalent/better than 75.4)
E) JBL GTO1202D 2ohm DVC sub + a suitable Sealed enclosure
F) Wiring and installation extra. Not included in the mentioned budget

How do you think the configuration will sound for the price I pay?? Comments and suggestions are welcome but keep an eye on my budget. I dont want it to go up. I also need the price of all these items with and without bill.

Now for the questions. I have read a lot in the last two weeks on ICE and still have a few things to get clarified.
1.I initially thought that the Subs are mounted on the parcel tray in a sedan. Now if I put the sub in an enclosure in the trunk, will I be able to FEEL the bass inside without it being too much loud outside?? I want to have a tight bass and be heared and "felt" only inside the car, not outside.
2. what if I put in luggages in the trunk along with the sub?? Will it not affect the sound quality??
3. Also once I secure the enclosure, if I want to remove it temporarily to carry some luggage, will I be able to remove and later secure it back easily or will I have to unscrew and screw again??

4. The most important of all the questions, Wiring the SUB to the bridged amp. I plan to use the amp to power the front comps and the sub. The rear co-axials will be powered by the HU. Now the amp's rear channels 3&4 will be bridged and connected to the sub. The DVC in the sub will be connected in series since they are 2ohm each. When in series they offer a 4 Ohm impedance and the 100.4 is 4 ohm stable when bridged. Is this wiring the correct way or is there any better way to get the most from the amp and sub???

5.Also the GTO1202D sub is 300watts rms and the amp is 150watt rms @2ohms. So when bridged it gives 300w rms@ 2 ohms. So I think the bridged amp and the sub match very well. What is your opinion?? Am I going wrong somewhere??


The post is pretty long. I have sorted most of it myself. But I require your help to make sure that I understood everything correctly. Thanks in advance. This is once of the best forums for the Indian auto scene.

[Magma]

(because by the time I buy, the GTO75.4 might no longer be available, even in grey

wow can someone please tell me where i can get my hands on a 75.4 ( grey whatever) in mumbai!!
i thought they were NA !!

[jkdas]

Planned? Limited ? Come on! that word doesnt exist here at ICE section!

Why?

You cant get all you have posted for 25k unless its grey.

OT: can someone at fxaudio wake up and update the website please.

[Bass&Trouble]

Originally Posted by praveen_v

Am I going wrong somewhere??

Nope, you are right everywhere. You have done a good job of reading up on ICE and have selected some good equipment. All you need is a good installer.

Connect the coils in series to the bridged output of the amp, that is correct. Use a speakon type connector so that you can easily detach the sub and take it out when there's too much luggage. When keeping luggage in the trunk with the sub, be careful to not keep anything near the cone. Sound will differ depending on the amount of luggage, but it's hard to predict whether it will get better or worse. You wont be able to prevent all of the sound from going out of the car. You could minimize this by damping and preventing the body's rattles from being heard outside.

[jkdas]

Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble

Nope, you are right everywhere. You have done a good job of reading up on ICE and have selected some good equipment. All you need is a good installer.

Connect the coils in series to the bridged output of the amp, that is correct. Use a speakon type connector so that you can easily detach the sub and take it out when there's too much luggage. When keeping luggage in the trunk with the sub, be careful to not keep anything near the cone. Sound will differ depending on the amount of luggage, but it's hard to predict whether it will get better or worse. You wont be able to prevent all of the sound from going out of the car. You could minimize this by damping and preventing the body's rattles from being heard outside.

I guess that he hasnt heard any decent ICE installs.

Would suggest sealed box for the setup and not an IB install.

[Raxx]

Originally Posted by praveen_v

JBL GTO 100.4 amp (because by the time I buy, the GTO75.4 might no longer be available, even in grey, and I assume the 100.4 will be equivalent/better than 75.4)

praveen why dont you find out a gto 75.4 in a grey market and stock it for your future install, last month i bought one credit goes to nitrous helped me to find one. as jk said these cant fit in your bill unless its grey

[hydrashok]

Welcome to TBHP ICE, praveen! That was a nice, clear post.

Prices -- approximate only (all with B&W, except the Pio HU), totally out of touch nowadays :(
A) Pio 5050 HU: 5Kish
B) JBL GTO607 components for the front: 6.5K
C) JBL GTO627 2 way co-axials for the rear,since i'm going for a sub.: 4K
D) JBL GTO 100.4 amp: 13-14K
E) JBL GTO1202D 2ohm DVC sub + a suitable Sealed enclosure: 6K + 1.5K

That's about 35K, rounding down. You'll need to add another 2K for wiring. And if you're doing damping, another 3K at least. And a good installer might charge extra, over and above the price for the ICE. But that extra will usually be worth it.

Maybe you can do the alloys later? (heh, heh)

If you prefer tight and well defined bass, a sealed (or a well designed & built ported enclosure) will be ideal. Sub-on-parcel-tray (= IB/Free-Air install) will not generally do.

If you use good, wide velcro strips (stitched/pasted) under the sub-box, that will give good grip on the carpet in the boot. You really needn't screw the box onto the seat-back/wall of the boot (but if you can, it will be really secure). You can also fashion a frame-like thing from MDF planks to lock the sub-box into place in the boot (that's what I've done).

Have fun here. I'm sure you're going to have an enjoyable ICEification.

[praveen_v]

Originally Posted by Magma

(because by the time I buy, the GTO75.4 might no longer be available, even in grey
wow can someone please tell me where i can get my hands on a 75.4 ( grey whatever) in mumbai!!
i thought they were NA !!

I read in some other thread that you might still get it in grey market. So I thought maybe it will be there for a while. Can't remember which thread, but it was pretty recent one.

Originally Posted by jkdas

Planned? Limited ? Come on! that word doesnt exist here at ICE section!

Why?

You cant get all you have posted for 25k unless its grey.

OT: can someone at fxaudio wake up and update the website please.

Yeah I know all will not come within that limit. I have to go for part grey part warranty. I plan to buy the amp on warranty as that's the heaviest investment in the setup, Rest I can manage without bills.

Why?? I have not even decided the car yet.. but now trying to finalizing an ICE, that's how much i'm stuck to this forum!

Originally Posted by jkdas

I guess that he hasnt heard any decent ICE installs.

Would suggest sealed box for the setup and not an IB install.

You are right, My Indigo has a Pio 4xxxDEH something head unit and normal co-ax up front and 3 way co-ax at the rear. That might not even be considered an ICE by many here!!!! . And my omni has an even worse setup. It has automatic fading and balancing(Some speakers play barely audible giving fade effect and some dont play at all giving a balanced effect heheheee). Seriously though I have not heared much of sub's in-car. One of my friend has a sub but it's parcel tray mounted free-air sub I guess and the sub and amp was some local make. That's the closest I got to sub in-car. But at home I have a creative 5.1 and now since i'm used to all the bass, I miss it in my car!

But since I have not heared much of sub, whatever the shopwalla shows me will sound good as I cannot relate what's ordinary and what's great as far as subs are concerned. But as long as this forum is here, I know I cannot be taken for a ride, Right??

And yes I am talking about sealed enclosure only as I dont want loud boom booms. The bass must be Thight, punchy and FELT inside the car and as minimum noise as possible outside(Guess that will be a one more security tip for ICE. If no one can hear it outside, no one will know it's there and ultimately the ICE will be secure from thieves!!! hehehe).

I was about to ask, where to head in chennai to audition jbl's. Can any chennai BHPians let me know of good shops in chennai where I'll can get a good audition on a range of ICE's and some good knowledgeable advise from installers?? That would be of a gerat help.

Good installers in chennai.. I will come to that part once I get my car and about to install the ICE. I am very much interested in doing it myself, but removing and fixing panels and tools are my biggest problems. Not to mention connecting it with the battery. I dont want my setup to go Kaput before even trying to make some noise.

[praveen_v]

Oops.. I just noticed i posted in the Product Discussions section. No wonder I didnt find it in the Ask the Gurus section.

@Mods: Can you please move the thread to Ask the gurus section.

[jaibir]

Originally Posted by Magma

(because by the time I buy, the GTO75.4 might no longer be available, even in grey

wow can someone please tell me where i can get my hands on a 75.4 ( grey whatever) in mumbai!!
i thought they were NA !!

I saw one in a shop in Milan Subway last week. ICE/accessories shop next to Anand Tyres. Don't know if it was just the box or actually had an amp in it ....

[navin]

Originally Posted by praveen_v

I am thinking of going for a NHC zxi or a Fiesta 1.4 Zxi petrol in the next 3 months.??

Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble

You could minimize this by damping and preventing the body's rattles from being heard outside.

Originally Posted by hydrashok

That's about 35K, rounding down. You'll need to add another 2K for wiring. And if you're doing damping, another 3K at least.
If you use good, wide velcro strips..

B&T and Hydra has answered all that needs to be answered. HoweverI beleive that the NHC will need more than 3K for damping. 3K would only do the front doors. I would advise some damping on teh firewall, under carpet and in the trunk as well. The NHC more than the Fiesta has horribly resonant panels (in the same price class the Verna and Aveo require less damping).

[jkdas]

Why dont we see much of Infinity installs?

Guys, he came with a budget! I have a friend and TBHPian who auditioned various brands and even made a self imposed limit of 25 which had to be made 35 after I jumped in with ideas. This was prior to he buying a car.

In the end, he spend 62K but he is very happy. Now his only grievance was that he should have spend 2k or so extra and should have gone for an ID.

[praveen_v]

Originally Posted by Raxx

praveen why dont you find out a gto 75.4 in a grey market and stock it for your future install, last month i bought one credit goes to nitrous helped me to find one. as jk said these cant fit in your bill unless its grey

The GTO100.4 should be better than 75.4 right??

Originally Posted by hydrashok

Maybe you can do the alloys later? (heh, heh)

If you use good, wide velcro strips (stitched/pasted) under the sub-box, that will give good grip on the carpet in the boot. You really needn't screw the box onto the seat-back/wall of the boot (but if you can, it will be really secure). You can also fashion a frame-like thing from MDF planks to lock the sub-box into place in the boot (that's what I've done).

I know I should not have mentioned the alloys here. They are the number 1 target for axing by ICE gurus. But I feel i will get a better deal if I exchange the stamped rim for alloys right when I buy the car than doing it sometime later.

And thank you very much Hydra for the price list!!!

Originally Posted by jkdas

Why dont we see much of Infinity installs?

Guys, he came with a budget! I have a friend and TBHPian who auditioned various brands and even made a self imposed limit of 25 which had to be made 35 after I jumped in with ideas. This was prior to he buying a car.

In the end, he spend 62K but he is very happy. Now his only grievance was that he should have spend 2k or so extra and should have gone for an ID.

62K?? I am outta here.. <Running away>. I guess I will settle for the config I mentioned unless something is not right with any of the components.

You know ICE's are just like assembled computers.. Each time you stretch your budget slightly, you get a better and a tempting configuration. But even if you stretch, you will still not be satisfied as stretching a little bit more will again give you a better config. You stretch little,little,little and ultimately you end up way off from where you started and not fully satisfied(Like you said.. your friend) as spending a little bit more would have given you a better result once again. Heh Heh. I always used to feel like that with my computers. I have already sacrificed my Graphics card plan for my computer for ICE. My graphics card has now become the Amp. No more sacrifices.

Originally Posted by navin

B&T and Hydra has answered all that needs to be answered. HoweverI beleive that the NHC will need more than 3K for damping. 3K would only do the front doors. I would advise some damping on teh firewall, under carpet and in the trunk as well. The NHC more than the Fiesta has horribly resonant panels (in the same price class the Verna and Aveo require less damping).

I will be going for the Fiesta 99%. And no damping now.. maybe sometime later when I find cash in my wallet. Also the ICE gurus need to be kept active na??

Hey, I'm not done with my questions. You gurus have more work. Here you go
1. Will I be able to fit the 6.5" comps in my front door stock locations say if I go for a fiesta without any modifications to the door/panel?? From what I have seen from the forum, there are not many good installers here in chennai and i dont want to spoil the looks of a new car due to some bad installations.

2. Wiring: What is the ideal routing for wiring if the Sub and the Amp are in the trunk of the car. How to Route
a) The Power to the amp from battery
b) The RCA outs from the HU
3) The front comps from the amp at the rear.
As I understand improper routing will intorduce interference into the system and in addition the dreaded Alternator Whine. I read about routing in some other thread but got confused with this left that right etc etc.

3. Since the low frequency waves are capable of easier penetration through solids, I think the sound from the Sub will travel out in all directions from the trunk. How do I ensure most of it is directed into the passenger cabin without damping?? Any secret placements/directions in the boot you recommend??

[Raxx]

Originally Posted by praveen_v

The GTO100.4 should be better than 75.4 right??

Ofcourse it should be, i dont think u can find a 100.4 in grey market as of now so it will take half of your budget.

[hydrashok]

Originally Posted by praveen_v

I will be going for the Fiesta 99%. ...

1. The Fiesta takes only 5x7 in stock locations. Narrows down your choices somewhat.

JBL has a coaxial in the GTO series (GTO8627) in this size (at 5.5K I think), but I think it may not be available right over the counter (you might need to order it).

Blau has coaxials in 5x7 (GTX572 and ODx573). The GTX should be in your budget (around 3K I think). The ODx would be something like 6K, I guess.

Polk also has speakers in this size in the MOMO series for about 5K I think (but I would not recommend Polk - too bright and "jarry" IMHO).

Hertz has Components and Coaxials in the Energy (ESK570) and HiEnergy (HSK570 and HCX570) series. But these would be 7Kish (Energy) and 10-11kish (HiEnergy) respectively.

Some Fiesta Threads:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/ask-gu...rd-fiesta.html
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/ask-gu...ce-fiesta.html
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/ask-gu...de-fiesta.html
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/ask-gu...st-please.html
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/ask-gu...em-fiesta.html

2. Wiring:
This is what I'd do.
- Power from the Battery to the Amp (in the boot) will pass through the center (or through one side of the car). Center is preferred.
- RCAs from the HU to the Amp would pass through one side. (Not through the same side as the Power cable).
- Speaker wires from the amp to the fronts would pass through the other side (nothing wrong in passing them through the same side as the RCAs).

As long as you don't pass the RCAs and the power cables through the same side, there should not be any interference issue from the wires.

3. Don't worry about routing the bass into the cabin from the boot. It will naturally pass through.