[reignofchaos]

Originally Posted by garrvit

I don't get it. Everyone is saying that I would need a Hi-Lo Converter to get a better output because I'm using a factory fitted head unit; and you're saying otherwise.
Why would people spend extra money to buy a Hi-Lo Converter when it won't do any good? Please enlighten me, I'm really confused now.

With a factory fitted HU, look for an amp that accepts hi level inputs. If that does not work, then the only way out is a Hi-Lo converter.

However the best option as far as SQ is concerned is to simply replace the factory HU with something better from aftermarket.

[Mashblue]

Originally Posted by garrvit

I don't get it. Everyone is saying that I would need a Hi-Lo Converter to get a better output....Please enlighten me, I'm really confused now.

If you want your speakers to perform at their optimum best then you need a quality signal from the head unit to the amp and then to the speakers. The only way to ensure high quality audio reproduction from a source (cd,usb etc.) Is by routing it through RCA terminals (also called "pre-amp outputs" because these are specifically designed to maintain high sound quality and specifically for use with an amplifier.)
In short: if you are looking for superior sound quality - swap the headunit for an aftermarket one with at least 2 pairs of pre-amp outputs. Think of this as a one- time investment as you can always carry over the head unit to a new car if future upgrade happens.

[garrvit]

Okay, now when I was about to get my car's audio system sorted this weekend; someone told me that getting any audio upgrades or changes will void my car's warranty.
I have already taken a Skoda Shield for my car which includes extended warranty. I wouldn't want to lose that. But I doubt all this makes sense, or would my car's warranty get void?

[devilwearsprada]

Originally Posted by garrvit

Okay, now when I was about to get my car's audio system sorted this weekend; someone told me that getting any audio upgrades or changes will void my car's warranty.
I have already taken a Skoda Shield for my car which includes extended warranty. I wouldn't want to lose that. But I doubt all this makes sense, or would my car's warranty get void?

Nope, a delusional comment by people who are not having much info. Go to a good installer, see that the wire is not cut short anywhere and no warranty will be void.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by reignofchaos

Any passive component in the signal path is bad for audio quality. That is the simple fact. If you can avoid a Hi-Lo converter, please do so.

That is an incorrect generalization. Sometimes one can't do without it - when the HU doesn't have Pre-outs, and the amp doesn't have high-level inputs.

Originally Posted by garrvit

... I would need a Hi-Lo Converter to get a better output ...

It is not for 'good' or 'better' output. You CAN'T connect your amp (when your amp doesn't have high-level inputs) to an HU that doesn't have Pre-outs.

Originally Posted by garrvit

... or would my car's warranty get void?

Originally Posted by devilwearsprada

... Go to a good installer, see that the wire is not cut short anywhere and no warranty will be void.

The LOC is usually spliced into the wires of the "harness adapter", not harness. The warranty is affected if harness wires are tampered with, but not those of the harness adapter - which costs 100-300.

[reignofchaos]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

That is an incorrect generalization. Sometimes one can't do without it - when the HU doesn't have Pre-outs, and the amp doesn't have high-level inputs.

Well in that case, why not simply get rid of the erring component - the head unit. In case you can't change the HU, get an amp with high level inputs.

In terms of physics, there is nothing wrong with that statement. Any passive component in the chain whether for impedance/gain matching in this case or anything else introduces distortion since it is not a straight wire.

[garrvit]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

You CAN'T connect your amp (when your amp doesn't have high-level inputs) to an HU that doesn't have Pre-outs.

1. So, how do you find out if the amplifier has high-level inputs or not? The amplifier that I own is Blaupunkt GTA4 MKII; it's a 4-channel, 800 watts.
2. And, how do you find out that the head unit has pre-outs or not? The head unit is the factory fitted one that comes in Skoda Rapid.

I think a good installer for car audio would be able to help me.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by reignofchaos

Well in that case, why not simply get rid of the erring component - the head unit. In case you can't change the HU, get an amp with high level inputs. ...

Changing HU is many time neither practical not desirable. Simpler solutions are usually the best. Even the amp with high-level inputs have that resistor network.

Originally Posted by reignofchaos

In terms of physics, there is nothing wrong with that statement. Any passive component in the chain whether for impedance/gain matching in this case or anything else introduces distortion since it is not a straight wire.

No, nothing wrong in the statement - till you realize you can't / shouldn't feed ~35V into an input that accepts ~8V max with a straight wire: impractical. Ignoring immeasurable distortion is more desirable than not listening to music in the quest for perfect equipment. Especially in a car.

BTW, your "not a straight wire" reminded me of the advertising of Quad UK in the late 70's. From Stewart Hegeman's concept of perfect amp: straight wire with gain!

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by garrvit

1. So, how do you find out if the amplifier has high-level inputs or not? The amplifier that I own is Blaupunkt GTA4 MKII ...

By referring to the User Manual. No, GTA4 doesn't have high-level inputs, so you have to use LOC.

Originally Posted by garrvit

... 2. And, how do you find out that the head unit has pre-outs or not? The head unit is the factory fitted one that comes in Skoda Rapid. ...

Yes, that's the difficult part since most car manufacturers neither declare the OE manufacturer & model, nor give a decent user manual. The only way is to remove the HU and look at the connection diagram which is (usually) pasted on top of the unit.

Originally Posted by garrvit

... I think a good installer for car audio would be able to help me.

Yes, they should know, or be able to find out.

[santhosharulvan]

Originally Posted by garrvit

Okay, now when I was about to get my car's audio system sorted this weekend; someone told me that getting any audio upgrades or changes will void my car's warranty.
I have already taken a Skoda Shield for my car which includes extended warranty. I wouldn't want to lose that. But I doubt all this makes sense, or would my car's warranty get void?

Why don't you consider a DSP for the install, there are many good DSP's out there which you can consider.
1. Audison Bit One/ Bit Ten
2. Mosconi 6to8 DSP
3. Rainbow 1.8 DSP(allows streaming of music through WiFI) and uses a Burr Brown DAC. This is DAC is very well known or used in many SQ headunit.

DSP accepts the high level inputs and you can connect the amplifiers to the DSP. Also the DSP has more better features like TA and 31 Band EQ which gives you further expansion to tuning, you can also go active with any of the above mentioned DSP's.

I have a Vento and a Bit Ten DSP installed; it accepts the High Level inputs from front door speakers, the front left and the front right. Leave the rear door speakers as it is. Use Fader to disable them. You only have to tap the power wire and the speaker wire to get your setup up and running.

[greenhorn]

I recently got a Digital Designs RL-C6.5 for my dad in law's Honda city with a high end setup, where a focal access 165AS had its voice coil locked solid and the amp was going into protect mode, and it sounds pretty good. While i paid 9.5k for it (full retail, but with a lot of installation cost bundled), they are 5k on amazon which is pretty good value!