[shuvc]

Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble

Its fine. They are often run full range in setups without subwoofers. But then what is the crossover frequency for your sub. If that plays upto 80Hz, the speakers and the sub are overlapping in the already notorious region where the car could cause a bass hump.

Sub is crossed at LPF 63Hz from HU.

But the amp end is a bit fuzzy. For the sub I wanted to set a HPF of around 40Hz. So that the sub plays only 40 to 63hz. However, it seems that the 75.4 frequency knob graduation is not linear. So am not really sure how much to twist clockwise from the starting point 32hz. Have done something playing by the ear, but it would help to know the 75.4 frequency knob graduation.

@sendindra - sorry for talking about my setup. But maybe this would help your tuning sessions

[senindra]

Some pictures of the set up. Sounds good to my ears. Will try and meet up Xeta and Razor for a better opinion.

[hydrashok]

Nice stuff there, senindra!

I think putting the amp there like that may not be good idea. It will tend to heat up much faster this way, with the heat radiating back into the amp itself.

[razor4077]

Originally Posted by hydrashok

Nice stuff there, senindra!

I think putting the amp there like that may not be good idea. It will tend to heat up much faster this way, with the heat radiating back into the amp itself.

I second that. Plus, tuning the amp will be quite a chore when it is fitted this way.

[nitrous]

The weight of the amp plus gravity puts some stress on the mounting screws. And then there's the variable of potholed roads or rally jumps
A very radical position for an amp. Hope it stays there. Its very bad for the amp if it comes off its perch while travelling.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by hydrashok

... with the heat radiating back into the amp itself.

Oy, radiations don't turn back unless they encounter a reflective surface!

Much of the cooling for the amp comes from convection over the heat sinks, not radiation, and that *may look like* a problem - since warm air moves up. If there are enough holes in the parcel shelf area, it is only the cabin which will warm up imperceptibly - AC will take care of that!

Nothing wrong with this arrangement, as long as the mounting is pucca - bolts with lock-washers near the nut preferable over screws.

[hydrashok]

OldFoxji, what I meant is that heat travels upward, and when the amp is mounted upside-down with the heat-sink-things now in the bottom, the amp tends to stay heated, with the heat moving back upwards into the amp itself.

I've seen upside-down mounting of amps discouraged in many places mostly because of this reason (heat). Maybe the newer amps have some way of working around this?

[XetaGLGRocks]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Oy, radiations don't turn back unless they encounter a reflective surface!

Much of the cooling for the amp comes from convection over the heat sinks, not radiation, and that *may look like* a problem - since warm air moves up. If there are enough holes in the parcel shelf area, it is only the cabin which will warm up imperceptibly - AC will take care of that!

Nothing wrong with this arrangement, as long as the mounting is pucca - bolts with lock-washers near the nut preferable over screws.

Well I have a different opinion about this. I had a similiar problem when an amp was mounted upside down.
Its definitely going to heat up and cut off after running for 20-25 minutes. Initially I could not understand why. ShuvC adviced me to mount it the right way, and the cut off never ocurred again.

Should be taken off immediately.

[Bass&Trouble]

Originally Posted by XetaGLGRocks

I had a similiar problem when an amp was mounted upside down.
Its definitely going to heat up and cut off after running for 20-25 minutes.

Hmm, your case must have something to do with improper grounding.

There is no problem with mounting amps upside down unless the screws go loose and the amp falls down. This can also be avoided by using nuts on the top side of the parcel tray. I say, as long as the amp does not give any problems, let it be.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by hydrashok

... I've seen upside-down mounting of amps discouraged in many places mostly because of this reason (heat) ...

It is not the orientation that matters, but whether there is enough space around it for a convection draft to form (preventing heat buildup and sudden catastrophic temperature rise). It is difficult to work out the exact heat equation (generated v/s dissipated), but if an amp does not fail below the front seat, it is even less likely to fail in the boot.

Since this is mounted on a body member, you also have to reckon with the dark metal surface that is absorbing some of the radiant heat and conducting it away.

[hydrashok]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

...It is not the orientation that matters, but whether there is enough space around it for a convection draft to form (preventing heat buildup and sudden catastrophic temperature rise)...

Yep, this does make sense to me. If there is enough air circulation, the hot air will get blown away.

I do see the reasoning here, but with my fussy nature, I'd sleep better with a more conventional amp-placement (if the space was available), if it were an install in my car.

[Lancer.ized]

indra gibran here

which brand of damping is used here ??? and you did the front two doors and the boot too ????

[DjNik]

The brand used here is NoiseKill.It costs 150/sq ft.U can Contact bass and trouble on the forum and get it couriered directly.The front two doors and boot damped have been damped.

[Lancer.ized]

@djnik so as indra has used 25 sq feet i guess that will be enough for mee too but will this stop noise to a very good extent cause my boot vibrates a lot will that stop after damping ??? and one more thing cant we get noise kill in cal ?

[karankapoor]

damping helps but you need to use at all the affected area which rattles, 25 sqft. material is enough for the front two doors & boot lid.

contact anish on the board maybe he can help you finding this in kolkata