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Originally Posted by navin
(Post 1427854)
The trick would be to isolate the PC's power supply from the car's battery for the first few seconds (when you crank the engine the car's abttery is severly taxed and voltage drops to under 10V) so the object here would be to start the PC once the key is in the ignition using a Li-on battery and then switch to the car's battery after ignition. Now if the same Li-on battery pack can be used to power the amps you can get a few minutes of power from this battery pack till the car is cranked and the alternator is generating 12V+. If the alternator is generating 12V+ it can charge teh Li-on battery. |
Originally Posted by navin
(Post 1428550)
Agreed reliability is essential, boot time is another. Currently boot times are in the order of 30 sec-1 minute with most car PCs needing about 45-50 secs. A car PC might have many uses but I like to consdier what the user needs instead of what the car pC can do. If the user only needs a good stereo system maybe a car PC is too much hardware, If however bluetooth communication, GPS, etc.. are required then a car PC starts making sense. |
Originally Posted by StarVegabond
(Post 1428582)
Thanks netarchie for patiently answering all my questions i just remembered couple of more.. Does this PC has wireless LAN / Wi-Fi, if no, do you plan to add it ? how do you see Wimax or a 3G broadband modem getting integrated into such a PC ? this will open up endless possibilities. Have you tried the Text to Voice feature of windows ?, i had seen a windowns version (i do not remember which one), in which a blind person can also use the windows software using a a brail keyboard. the OS shouts back what he is typing and what is the status. such a voice implementation would be very beneficial in a car PC what do you think ? |
Originally Posted by 007
(Post 1428663)
What a creative job...! 10/10...........clap: |
Originally Posted by navin
(Post 1427854)
The trick would be to isolate the PC's power supply from the car's battery for the first few seconds (when you crank the engine the car's abttery is severly taxed and voltage drops to under 10V) so the object here would be to start the PC once the key is in the ignition using a Li-on battery and then switch to the car's battery after ignition. Now if the same Li-on battery pack can be used to power the amps you can get a few minutes of power from this battery pack till the car is cranked and the alternator is generating 12V+. If the alternator is generating 12V+ it can charge teh Li-on battery. |
Originally Posted by Digital Vampire
(Post 1428739)
I'd suggest that the dual battery scheme is not required at all if you are using ATX power supplies designed for Carputer use; for instance an M2ATX which is an Intelligent Automotive DC-DC Car PC Power Supply. The M2ATX can work from 6-24V, survives engine cranking and is also load dump protected. . |
Originally Posted by esteem_lover
(Post 1428603)
Very nicely put Navin. This is the most important thing in Car PCs. If this can be done, it will solve many problems. |
Originally Posted by harry10
(Post 1428642)
Excellent job! When it comes to car pc's am a noob but had been following few threads here on this to gain knowledge and must say this one takes the crown by a mile :) |
Originally Posted by 007
(Post 1428663)
What a creative job...! 10/10...........clap: |
Originally Posted by StarVegabond
(Post 1428687)
I fully agree, i have marked 5 star rating to this thread |
Originally Posted by Digital Vampire
(Post 1428739)
I'd suggest that the dual battery scheme is not required at all if you are using ATX power supplies designed for Carputer use; for instance an M2ATX which is an Intelligent Automotive DC-DC Car PC Power Supply. The M2ATX can work from 6-24V, survives engine cranking and is also load dump protected. M2-ATX (160w) Intelligent DC-DC Car PC Power Supply As a step ahead, I configured M2 to trigger from my car security system (Unlock) rather than ACC line and that extra time (from my unlock button press to the time I settle inside the car and put the key in) ensured that I have a frontend ready as soon as I have the car keys in. The monitor is wired to the switch ON with the ACC line and the whole experience is like having an instant availability CarPC frontend rather than the usual wait for the OS to boot and then frontend to load if it were to be triggered from the ACC line. |
Originally Posted by Digital Vampire
(Post 1428739)
As a step ahead, I configured M2 to trigger from my car security system (Unlock) rather than ACC line and that extra time (from my unlock button press to the time I settle inside the car and put the key in) ensured that I have a frontend ready as soon as I have the car keys in. The monitor is wired to the switch ON with the ACC line and the whole experience is like having an instant availability CarPC frontend rather than the usual wait for the OS to boot and then frontend to load if it were to be triggered from the ACC line. |
Originally Posted by srishiva
(Post 1429451)
Do these PCs support dual display support? Should be good if rear screen can show videos while the front one continues with car specific information with centrafuse. |
Originally Posted by gigy
(Post 1429356)
which is this line you used for powering up? tapping from any of the door actuator? what if you unlock and decide to lock back due some other reason? will the locking pulse shut it down? |
Originally Posted by nisarg86
(Post 1429408)
Now that is interesting Digital Vampire. But want to know the same as Gigy. |
Originally Posted by navin
(Post 1429688)
I am greedy.... for me 3 screens would be perfect. One child can watch a video, another can play a PC based game while you drive. :D |
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