Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!

harmon_bro · 10th June 2007, 21:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by gunbir

Sorry Harmon, HERTZ isn't available in Madras yet (soon though). Your nearest (not really) demo would be in Cochin.

How much does the HERTZ series components cost?

gunbir · 11th June 2007, 01:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by harmon_bro

How much does the HERTZ series components cost?

Harmon, it depends what series and size you are looking for. In 6.5" size Hertz has the following ranges:

4 - Dieci - DSK165 6.5" components for Rs 6000
3 - Energy - ESK165 6.5" components for Rs 9100
2 - Hi-Energy - HSK165 6.5" components for Rs 15300
1 - Mille - MLK165 6.5" components for Rs 35200 and MLK2 for Rs 88600
S - Space - Space K6L 6.5" components for Rs 20600, Space K6 for Rs 38100

if you need more info feel free to PM/IM me or visit HERTZ by Elettromedia - Special Car Stereo

Cheers!

navin · 11th June 2007, 09:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Also I do not like tweeters. Sometimes it hurts my ears.

I remember reading somewhere that the 2 way component is better than 4 separate speakers because you do not have to tweak the crossover yourself.

So lets say I get high quality 6" speaker and a high quality 4" 2 way for front and then manually adjust the Xover? Is adjustment something like moving a rotary knob clockwise or anticlockwise?

As Navin mentioned, tweeters are too close to ears. I would like to have them(If I get any) as far away from my ears.
40-Hz to 6000Hz is where I want the best quality sound.

For very low and subtle bass a 8" sub in a ported box would do, right?

All tweeters do not hurt your ears. Listen to Morel or DYnaudio and you will see only I find them a bit lifeless (the Supreme and Esotar (not Esotec) are the least lifeless) but they will not hurt your ears.

Today my favorite Home Audio tweeters are the Focal (forget model number), OW4 (there is a OW1 which is suppsoed tobe a bit more extended but I have not heard it), 2905-9900 revelator, and soon I should get the Seas Magnum and Cresnedo (from the Excel range). Other contenders could be the G2si and the Neo8 but I am very wary of ribbons (too fragile, require high order XOs etc..).

Any component speaker SHOULD be better than a Coax.
a) Better quality design and manufacturig processes for the drivers
b) much better quality crossover
c) some degree of adjustment (usually a +/- 3db control for the tweeter) for the drivers.

A lot of the edginess of the lesser speakers comes from
a) a midwoofer that is over extended and hence you hear break up modes
b) a tweeter that is over extended and hence you hear excursion limitations
c) deflection of the tweeter (polyamide are the worst) cone
d) resonance peaks (a la piezos)
much of this is moticebale in the octage between 2K and 4K where poor reproduction of female voices and/or violins can make the music unbearable.

A recess in this range especially in a car is not a bad thing.

TSK. A single 8" might move too liittle air. You might be better of with a pair of 8" or alteat a single 10" in a sealed box.

santosh.s · 11th June 2007, 12:24

Tanveer, just because a few low quality tweeters might have hurt your ears, the conclusion that you hate all tweeters is wrong. Tweeters, just like sub, are a must if you want really high quality sound.

Quote:

Originally Posted by navin

Any component speaker SHOULD be better than a Coax.
a) Better quality design and manufacturig processes for the drivers
b) much better quality crossover
c) some degree of adjustment (usually a +/- 3db control for the tweeter) for the drivers.

Every rule has exceptions, this one has too. Co-axials with same quality drivers as in their component counterpart and an external crossover (physically separated from woofer/tweeter assembly) do exist. A few of them are actually flexible- you can mount them as coaxial or use separately. Co-axials can in fact be designed to be a better time-aligned point sources. But in car, installation is another problem. If you mount them inside front doors the tweeter won't have direct path to listeners and if it is mounted on rear tray it will fire directly onto glass both of which is like defeating the purpose. Some have movable swivel tweeter but no idea as to what extent it solves the problem.

navin · 11th June 2007, 15:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by santosh.s

Every rule has exceptions, this one has too. Co-axials with same quality drivers as in their component counterpart and an external crossover (physically separated from woofer/tweeter assembly) do exist.. Co-axials can in fact be designed to be a better time-aligned point sources. .

santsoh, you are refering to Infinity and Tannoy.

a) Infintiy coax drivers are still not as good as their components (but they might be better than other components, as always I should include a disclaimer "all things remaingin equal").
b) Tannnoy is another matter (and they dont do ICE). shoinvg he tweter down the throat of a woofer does not make is accurate. you do get a theoretical point source but rememebr teh tweeter is a wave guide (which is not bad) but this wave guide (the woofer cone) is moving (or atleast is should be to reproduce the mids and bass) and that cant be a good thing. That said I ahve heard the Tannoy drivers and like many they have their strengths and weaknesses. KEF's Uni-Q driver is worse. Some fullrange drivers (a la Jordan's JX92, Fostex 103, 108, 127, 167, 168, WR/FR125, Lowthers, Tangband, Supravox, Veravox, etc.. might be better at reproducing the fullrange) but that is topic for another forum.

abhibh · 11th June 2007, 17:10

Hey one question on JBL sub. Whats the model number of the new JBL 60th anniversary Sub and its price ?

ported_head · 11th June 2007, 17:17

There is no such thing as a AUX-IN to USB converter, right?

low_bass_makker · 11th June 2007, 17:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by ported_head

There is no such thing as a AUX-IN to USB converter, right?

please explain it a little more.....but there are some USB converter for HU....

ported_head · 11th June 2007, 17:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by low_bass_makker

please explain it a little more.....but there are some USB converter for HU....

I have no USB port on my HU. So there would be no way to attach a USB drive, right? NOt even through AUX-IN? Like AUX-IN probe at one end, and USB at other?

low_bass_makker · 11th June 2007, 17:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by ported_head

I have no USB port on my HU. So there would be no way to attach a USB drive, right? NOt even through AUX-IN? Like AUX-IN probe at one end, and USB at other?

Yes you can if you have a pioneer HU ......there is one USB adapter launched by pioneer it will cost you approx 5k...

Sam Kapasi · 11th June 2007, 17:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by abhibh

Hey one question on JBL sub. Whats the model number of the new JBL 60th anniversary Sub and its price ?

GTO1265. Look for the Logo in gold lettering. Also make sure you get the 2 protective grille type things, included in the 60th anniversary black colour carton.
It's price is 5,990/- including VAT

ported_head · 11th June 2007, 17:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by low_bass_makker

Yes you can if you have a pioneer HU ......there is one USB adapter launched by pioneer it will cost you approx 5k...

Ok, that thing costs as much as my HU, so it's not an option.

There are no jugaad options, or what??

Sam Kapasi · 11th June 2007, 18:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by ported_head

There are no jugaad options, or what??

Option1.
Take a laptop, install winamp, plug in your USB drive, take a line out from your laptop annd connect it to the aux in of your HU.

If you don't have a laptop.
Option2.

Buy an invertor. One that converts 12V DC to 230V ac. You will need about 1000W. Take your CPU down to the car, along with your monitor, keyboard and mouse. Install winamp. Keep entire ensemble on back seat.

Buy a long USB male female extension. Buy a long stereo EP to RCA. Run both to front. Plug USB stick in.

Enjoy your music!!

ported_head · 11th June 2007, 18:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

Option1.
Take a laptop, install winamp, plug in your USB drive, take a line out from your laptop annd connect it to the aux in of your HU.

If you don't have a laptop.
Option2.

Buy an invertor. One that converts 12V DC to 230V ac. You will need about 1000W. Take your CPU down to the car, along with your monitor, keyboard and mouse. Install winamp. Keep entire ensemble on back seat.

Buy a long USB male female extension. Buy a long stereo EP to RCA. Run both to front. Plug USB stick in.

Enjoy your music!!

Hai, hai! Jugaad means cheap man. All this pretty much runs past, 5k for the original Pio solution. You could have just said, NO!

low_bass_makker · 11th June 2007, 18:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by ported_head

Hai, hai! Jugaad means cheap man. All this pretty much runs past, 5k for the original Pio solution. You could have just said, NO!

you can get a USB pendrive MP3 player for 2k approx and pioneer aux in that will cost you approx .5 to 1k....

11th June 2007, 17:10	#6126
abhibh Senior - BHPian Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Back in the HOOD near you! Posts: 2,768 Thanked: 39 Times	Hey one question on JBL sub. Whats the model number of the new JBL 60th anniversary Sub and its price ?
	() Thanks

11th June 2007, 17:17	#6127
ported_head Senior - BHPian Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Mumbai, India Posts: 2,387 Thanked: 20 Times	There is no such thing as a AUX-IN to USB converter, right?
	() Thanks