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Thanx a lot all. Sam, Already Spoke to BM in VAshi .He currentely does not have 636e in stock. I have requested him to get them so I can go and hear them.

It looks like mostly I will do the install myself. First will have alook at the car setup ( after I take a delivery). Somehow I am more comfortable with that idea.

The last guy i Used to change my front speakers has just used a shorted fuse and put some wire around it. I found this out when the cabin light started doing disco randomly.

Sorry for the wrong information about the JBL components. I was getting it second hand, but yes my freind was able to buy 9851 for 15k without bill, he was getting 9830 for 12.5k as well.

Hi Sam, still considering between CS 50.4 amplifier and the Sony 504Z. Of course it all boils down to money, but willing to spend that extra buck to get the sound after already being heavily invested. Doing some research on the 50.4 and found that its RMS is 67 Watts. Now I have components in front which can handle this output. But I am concerned about the GTO 636 in the rear. Going through their specs I found:
Manufacturer JBL
Model GTO626
Size (inches) 6 1/2
Type 2-Way Speaker

Price $99.95 pair
Sensitivity 90 dB
Frequency Response 55-21,000 Hz
Recommended RMS Power 60W
Peak Power Handling 180W
Impedance 4 ohms

That their RMS is 60W, so will they be able to handle 67W. The salesperson discouraged me to bridge 2 channels in parallel and two to the tube. He recommended just going with 2 channnels dedicated to the components, and other two channels bridged to the tube. He said that the GTO 636 if amped, will spoil the whole sound of the system... please shed your DIVINE light on this.

Hi, Aseem,

First of All are these 626 or 636 U are refrring to

second is it thye same setup where u want to run your rear speakers and woofer in parallel.

U can easily run the rears in my opinion for following reasons

1. It is unlikely you will max out the power to rear all the time unless u feed a monoaural sound continuously to it. It that sound level you will not only be able to handle it forget about the speaker

2. It is unlikely that U will be running the system on peak power , unles u like to park the car in open spaces and party with the car system on

3. All manufacturers provide design tolerances to accomodate safty marging when publishing the specs so I think 10 % reserve is easily available

and lastly I think withy gain control you can limit the sound going to the back assuming u are uisng them only for fill ( may be Navin can comment on this)


SAM your views on this please?

Nothing will happen if the amp is feeding more power to the speakers. But if the speaker is higher rated and you are increasing the volume to push the speakers hard, there will be trouble.

As long as the amplifier can handle the impedance of the speakers it will be okay. Go strictly by the recommended speaker impedances. It does not matter if you connect a hundred speakers but the impedance should be the recommended one. Of course, you cannot connect a hundred speakers.

In technical terms, gain is the ratio of output to input voltage or current. When you talk about the voltage gain of an amp, you are talking about how much the input signal is amplified. This is a rough explanation. If the amp has more gain, there is more amplification.

RCA (Radio Corporation of America) used to make a these connectors that are named after them in the 50s. RCA was to audio in the 40s and 50s what IBM was to computers in the 70s and maybe what MS was to the PC in the 90s. Although there were and still are other competing standards that had advantages over RCA's standard the RCA standard won out because it was cheaper to make and RCA's huge muscle at the time.

DIN, XLR, etc... now occupy niche markets. For those of us like Vivek we would prefer if XLR (pref. balanced) was the standard but like i said before you cant always get what you want but it if try sometimes you get what you need.

Monster in a Marketing phenomenon sort of like Silly Putty and the Pet Rock. Belden makes beautiful cable and is often cheaper than Monster. For those (like my sister's hubby) who roll their own cable Belden is God.

That is was available in India was a pleseant shock to me. Thanks Sam.

Seriously while thermal rating of speakers shoudl be considered most speakers are more limted by their physical excursion limitations.

Aseem a 9830 for 12.5K this will kill all HUs in the price bracket.

All you guys are worrying about the electrical/thernal limitations of speakers (60W, 100W etc..) when it is the physical limitations that are often the real limiting factor in a speaker's SPL capability.

Both the 626 and 636 have 6" woofers right? Assuming the Xmax (linear one way) is about 5mm you will run into physical limitions in a car somewhere in the area of 10-20W at 50Hz. Now dont get worried. At 10W a 90db/1W/1m speaker will be producing 100db/1m. That might not part your hair but will drown out all external noises including maybe your own car's horn.

So as long as the amp is putting out more than 40W rms (0.01%, 20-20k) clean you can run most commonly available 6" speakers. for larger drivers you need more power but that is a different thread.

I bought a Alpine Cda-9851 from JC Road in Bangalore for 15K and the guy there suggested to put Boston Comps. which costed around 5k. I went and saw his Boston Equipment Fitted car(A Accent). He had a set of Comps in the front, co-axials at the back and 2 - 2000 Watt Woofers driven by independent Amps. and to drive the Comps and Coax's he had a separate Amp. Believe me the Sound was just Awesome.

well this is a very good set up. did you get the model numbers of the speakers and amps?

how would the performance of the Boston Components be in the rear..just being connected to the Sony 5510X..
Here are the specs of the Sony 5510X :
CDX-F5510X
* S-MOSFET Output Power: 52Wx4
* FM18/AM12
* New Drive-S Deck
* CD-R/RW Playback
* Pre Out: Front + Rear/Sub Switchable
* EQ3 (3-Band Equalizer/7 Modes)
* Bass/Treble (Low/Mid/High)
* Low Pass Filter
* Attrac3plus

Dont remember the Model # of the Boston Comps...was told that it would cost around 5k..

i will post the model numbers by night.

Does anyone know whether the Alpine I-POD interface unit KCA 420I willl work for a Creative Nomad Jukebox-40GB which is a similar kind of a MP3 Player. I require this info. urjently so, please let me know if anyone has any idea.

Sam please help me on this........Does anyone know whether the Alpine I-POD interface unit KCA 420I willl work for a Creative Nomad Jukebox-40GB which is a similar kind of a MP3 Player. I require this info. urjently so, please let me know if anyone has any idea..........its urgent because i have asked my brother in Canada to get me the KCA-420I

Sam hope your reference will work lol: .. I am planning to call them up sometime next week.