Team-BHP - Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!

- - Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q! (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/car-entertainment/6427-car-audio-advice-audio-gurus-use-search-thread-before-posting-new-q-559.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magma (Post 900629)

3.
hmm let me rephrase the question.
Consider the same brand and same range. Now if one has only 170W rms at their disposal and there are two sub options one which is rated 250rms and the other rated 150rms what moderately noticible/audible diffence (if any ) would one expect

You should expect cleaner and possibly louder output from the 250 rms rated sub.

Quote:

Originally Posted by navin (Post 899664)

1. please reconsider any amp that claims a bridged output that is 4x that of it's stereo output. This is theory and unless the amp has a fantastically low output impedance and fantastically high current deliverably this is very rare so consider such specs with a table spoon of salt (table spoon = a pinch and then some)

I suggest people copy paste and save this somewhere. Every time you read about magical low impedance driven power output, please go back and read the above.

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenhorn (Post 900784)

and dont forget sky high damping factors. another spec you can fudge when you claim low output impedance

The damping factor of the amp is one thing and to able to control it is another. It also depends on the thickness of the wire which is used to connect the sub and the amp..here is a little more detail on the same.

Damping Factor with Calculator

True. If I use a 0/1 gauge cable between the amp and speaker, the damping factor would jump up to over 400?

But that has little bearing in actual application as driver impedance is not a constant in operation. Like Green said, DF is one of the most abused rarely understood specs.

I guess since the calculator carries the disclaimer that it calculated the damping factor based on the wire alone , it can be let off the hook. and given that the original damping factor for the above calculation was 500... given a more realistic source damping factor above, I suppose we'd get a more realistic damping factor below as well :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by shuvd (Post 903674)

Guru jis, I need a HU.
Between the Alpine CDA 9884E and CDA 9886, which one should I opt for? I'll be using CDs and USB HDD as source. Would like to add an ipod later on.

Please do your research on Alpine USB and HDD sources. Alpine doesn't quite have USB implemented like Pioneer or JVC

Quote:

Originally Posted by gunbir (Post 903693)

Please do your research on Alpine USB and HDD sources. Alpine doesn't quite have USB implemented like Pioneer or JVC

Gunbir ji, please explainplease:. I tried to do some research. The following is from Crutchfield:
9884:
USB Adapter Ready: With the optional KCA-620M USB adapter (item number 500KCA620M), you can connect and control MP3 players that have USB connections. In addition, if you have MP3s stored on a USB thumb drive, you can select and play those files from the head unit.

9886:
USB: Using the rear panel USB port, you can connect and control an audio device with MP3, WMA, or AAC files and a USB jack. The female Type A USB port is located on an 8" pigtail.

This means I can use a pen drive/USB HDD right?? I have to buy the adapter thingy na? Or, will connecting an ipod be easier? The current ipod Classic 80GB would work kya?

I've never used the ipod and have ZERO idea.stupid:
Thanks in advance.

Quote:

Originally Posted by navin (Post 903820)

Pio and JVC have a USB socket on the front panel itself no need for a pigtail.

Navinji - I think you meant this for some particular models. I am saying this because some models of Pio have USB at rear panel. For eg 4050. The pigtail is no bad as there's no cables hanging infront of HU. Also, a pen drive plugged on the front is not safe when you have kids :). I have put the pigtail end in my glove box. I can connect a pendrive/HDD inside the glove box and close it which makes the HU front panel clean and no hanging wires.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mohang_j (Post 904239)

I have a quick question about the colours used while fiberglassing.Can i mix with the normal metallic paint with polyester resin.(i have one can of com-paint)

Any non-polyester material will cause porosity in the resin and reduce strength and density. This is OK for decorative purposes (lamp stands and shades, etc.), not for your woofer box. With solvent based materials, the solvent will not get a chance to evaporate. You could try small patches / panels to check the results.

Check on Youtube for FG work - there are lots of instructional videos where the first layer (the layer that ultimately gets exposed to the outside) is base material that comes out all shiny.

Hi,

I am planning to get a JBL CS300.1 amp (300w @2ohms) (still available). I need to select a sub that will go well with this amp, to be installed in the spare wheel well.

a) Should I look at any particular variety of subs considering it will go into the wheel well.

b) Would the JBL GTO1204D (300w @2 ohms) sound good if installed in the wheel well?

c) Please suggest any other good sub for this location.