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Thanks for your reply. Separate budget allocated for sound dampening already. :)

The only reason I am avoiding tweeters is extra cutting involved. If I get a three way speaker - isn't it supposed to have tweeter function (i.e. high frequencies) integrated?

Without an amp, how to achieve the crossing over? If I can't channel the various frequencies, how will the three-way speaker work to its full potential?

^^ I have understood your point. I was wrong about the component / coaxial thing.

I have decided this:

4" Component speaker at front.
Tweeters on a-pillar
4-channel amp
Space-saving subwoofer vs rear coaxials - any one

Dont change HU for DSP instead keep oem HU and buy a DSP such as Mosconi 4to6 for 25k, this is more future proof as you will not be limited to lousy OEM HU's.

DSP alone cannot make music sound good without nicely powered components, for these you will need an amp. Also active sub listed is not so good and dsp cannot help.

For good SQ and for components to run properly buy a 4 channel amp and a standalone sub.

Stay away from Sony unless you want big boomy sound and want whole city to hear your music. If this is what you like then get something better by Kicker or Rockford.

For music you listen rear coaxials would be fine provided you can balance them with front components. Point is the music should blend. Audition this setup, if you feel coaxials will not do then get a 8 inch sub.

Thanks for your suggestions. I was searching online and it seems 4 inch components are not easy to come by! Do you have any specific brand in mind?

Welcome.

Check Rainbow Dreamline Dl c4.2.


http://www.rainbow-audio.de/en/speaker/dream-line/

I just want good deep bass inside the car, don't want to shake the mirrors of buildings. Also if I go for the JVC HU, is there an adapter for VW cars to get the steering wheel controls working? Like the Pioneer head units support steering wheel controls for only japanese cars and are not compatible with Can-bus cars. It's mentioned on their website.So is there any way to get the steering controls to work on the vw ?

So if i go for an amp and a subwoofer which one should i go for. I want to power the rear speakers and the subwoofer with the amp.

The best would be a Rainbow Audio Dreamline Sub with a Rainbow Beat 2 amp bridged. Expensive, but a lovely product, which delivers punchy bass without being boomy and excessive

No holes neede. In both my cars grounding done by connecting wire to rear seat middle seatbelt nut, place where screw gets tightened. First from this screw scrap away any paint.

I don't know about retaining controls, if you just get a dsp and leave HU alone then whichever car you have no money will be spent to retain factory features.

In my Rapid I have Digital Design A4 class AB 4 channel amp mated with Image Dynamics sub and Rainbow Dreamline components.

In my Swift Bull Audio components, image dynamics sub, and Kenwood 4 channel class D amp.

I would suggest class AB amp, Rainbow amps are more bright then DD. Audition both, I chose DD A4 over Rainbow Beat 4.

Does any one have any experience with miniDSP. On net I see good reviews, I am lookimg for simple and cheap dsp for car.


https://www.minidsp.com/products/min...ox/minidsp-2x4

Is it advisable to connect a 4 channel amplifier to front components, rear fills and subwoofer all together?

As in - front channels of the amp connected to the front component speakers and the rear fills. While the rear channels of the sub are bridged to power the sub.

I understand we lose front / rear fader with this setup. But any other disadvantages, or chances of overloading and frying the system? please:

Speakers are of same make. So not too worried about the sound signature, or loss of fader control.

PS: Or would I be better off connecting the rear fills directly to the head unit?

IMHO, a 4 Channel Amp is used to connect the front components and a Sub Woofer. The rear fills should be directly connected to the head unit.

If a mono block is to be introduced in the above setup, then the Sub should be connected to the mono block. The other 2 channels of the 4 channel amplifier can be used to power the rear fills. In the case of sedans, the rear fill will over power the front components in which case the entire setup would sound too bright and harsh.

Nothing wrong if installed and tuned properly. Just make sure they are having 4 ohms or higher impedance per speaker. And the amp supports 2 ohms mode.

Thank you.

You're right. That's what even I had in mind. But recently came across a setup with another BHP'ian where he had front and rear components and a sub powered by a four channel (Class D) amplifier.

Mine is an AB. Not sure if that matters!

I would be trying to get a mono block later, but don't want the rear to miss out till then.

Thank you.

Amp is a DLS XProgram XA-40. The specifications says it can provide 4*50W at 4 ohms 1 THD, 4*70W at 2 ohms 2 THD. Now that makes it two ohm stable right?

http://www.phd.it/welcome_to/speakers/mf62_kit.asp
http://www.phd.it/welcome_to/speakers/fb61.asp

So finally after some questions and answers on this thread, I have finally installed the setup in my car. Received the Amp- Blaupunkt GTA 470 SF today(ordered from Snapdeal) and bought the sub - Blaupunkt GTB 1200 SC from the installer at 6K(yes, I know its a bit expensive as compared to online retailers). The wire kit used was of some "Connect" brand for 3.4k. I also damped the front 2 doors. Cost for each sheet was Rs 850/-.Total 4 sheets required in all.
So the main question is, am I happy ? The answer is Yes I am happy. I loved the sound signature . Metallica (Turn the page, fade to black) sounds so sweet clap: .I have noticed 2 small issues though :
First issue is that the low beam of right head lamp stopped working, but high beam is working fine . I don't know if that was the case before installing setup, or if installing the amp messed up with the low beam of the right side headlight.
Second issue is that I am able to hear slight whistle type sound from speakers when I rev the engine. This sound disappears if I turn off the system(read : HU). What could be the issue here, shall I go back to the installer?

Go back to the installer, maybe a fuse issue while connecting wires.

As for sound from speakers - check gain settings on amplifier, at times if its too high then sound comes from speakers. If you don't know how to check then go to installer as mismatch here can cause issues in the system.