[condor]

How to identify an original / fake Amp Scoshe wiring kit ?

What gauge should the wire be ?

[straight6]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

Cut a few strands off or flatten it. Jugaad should be able to do it just fine :P

Will see if that's a good option once I find a good kit.

Originally Posted by condor

How to identify an original / fake Amp Scoshe wiring kit ?

What gauge should the wire be ?

Original ones say oxygen free copper and have an mrp of 3990/-. The fakes are half that price or lesser.

If you find the original one you don't have to worry about the wire inside. The 8ga kit is available in Bombay for 3k or so.

[condor]

Originally Posted by straight6

If you find the original one you don't have to worry about the wire inside. The 8ga kit is available in Bombay for 3k or so.

That's the idea of asking the question .. how to identify the genuineness !

Btw, the one you have shown is a 2 channel kit . is this the one that sells @ 3k~ ?

[straight6]

Originally Posted by condor

That's the idea of asking the question .. how to identify the genuineness !

Btw, the one you have shown is a 2 channel kit . is this the one that sells @ 3k~ ?

Yes, its a 2 channel kit but all you need is another rca cable. Mrp is 3990 but I'm getting it for 3k.

If possible put pictures of the one you have access to.

[condor]

Originally Posted by straight6

If possible put pictures of the one you have access to.

I see a Scosche E400S for 2.5k:



And a Caliber Audio 1500W for 1.8k:


Punk Audio for 2k:



Or the Kamatech's for 1.1k

[straight6]

Originally Posted by condor

I see a Scosche E400S for 2.5k:



And a Caliber Audio 1500W for 1.8k:


Punk Audio for 2k:



Or the Kamatech's for 1.1k

That Scosche seems to be CCA (Copper clad alumium) so avoid anyway, even if its original as thats not the best to use. I'm pretty sure my Earthquake Sound kit is also the same and its 8ga hence I want to change to 4ga as my amp is a 800 watts rms.

The others I would not bother with.

[HighwayofLife]

Originally Posted by straight6

That Scosche seems to be CCA (Copper clad alumium) so avoid anyway, even if its original as thats not the best to use. I'm pretty sure my Earthquake Sound kit is also the same and its 8ga hence I want to change to 4ga as my amp is a 800 watts rms.

The others I would not bother with.

I suggest either Connect, if you want cheaper pure copper cable, or AIV, if you want higher quality stuff

[straight6]

Originally Posted by HighwayofLife

I suggest either Connect, if you want cheaper pure copper cable, or AIV, if you want higher quality stuff

Connect is not easily available and not sure if you're talking about 'Konnects'. Cerwin Vega and Focal are available at a local ICE shop. Check the price difference in the snapdeal and amason links below.

Ideally, I just need the power and ground cables.

https://www.snapdeal.com/product/kon...ier/1803697596

http://www.amazon.in/Amplifier-Insta...b-7564c99e1da8

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by heydj

In connecting iPod via USB EQ makes an impact on SQ, you can verify this by changing the setting and noticing difference.

DAC I am assuming always stays on, few years back I played same song via iPod connected in USB mode and pen drive. I preferred SQ of iPod as clarity and depth was more. ...

With the full cable, only file contents are relayed to the HU.

The EQ doesn't come into the picture, nor the iPod internal DAC. DAC and EQ (it is AFTER the DAC) come into the picture only when playing via EP socket into AUX-IN. It doesn't matter if the DAC stays powered - it is disabled when HU requests file read.

[greenhorn]

Originally Posted by straight6

Ideally, I just need the power and ground cables.
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why not buy finolex cables of the required thickness (16/20sq mm) from an electrical shop? make sure its the flame retardant type!

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

... The pinout has both serial RX/TX lines and analog L/R. I tried using an ipod emulator for the serial pins, and tried to send analog audio wia the L/R, but didnt get audio. ...

No, output won't go to DAC and further to the analog audio lines if the serial pins are communicating.

Originally Posted by greenhorn

... But I'm not sure if the digital is enough to send audio as it uses the serial interface, and I'm not sure if that offers enough bandwidth for, hq audio

More than enough - high speed serial at USB speeds. Perhaps you are discounting receiver-side buffering? Moreover, it is 'compressed' bytes being sent over the serial interface, NOT PCM meant for DAC. The 'high quality' part is DAC and further. That is why we critically look at the DAC in the HU.

Originally Posted by greenhorn

why not buy finolex cables of the required thickness (16/20sq mm) from an electrical shop? make sure its the flame retardant type!

+1. Domestic wiring cables from Finolex, Havells etc. - just make sure they are the double insulated 'teflon' cables (inner insulation is teflon - white; outer is colored - R / Y / B / G / W; one can make out in cross section).

And it is a good idea to use crimp lugs - quite commonly available in shops in electrical markets. They ensure a good connection.

[heydj]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

The EQ doesn't come into the picture, nor the iPod internal DAC. DAC and EQ (it is AFTER the DAC) come into the picture only when playing via EP socket into AUX-IN. It doesn't matter if the DAC stays powered - it is disabled when HU requests file read.

About the Eq thing I disagree as have been using iPod connected to HU via USB for years now. In this before connecting if I choose particular Eq setting then sound signature changes.

If you are ever in Delhi we can see it together!

[HighwayofLife]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

No, output won't go to DAC and further to the analog audio lines if the serial pins are communicating.

More than enough - high speed serial at USB speeds. Perhaps you are discounting receiver-side buffering? Moreover, it is 'compressed' bytes being sent over the serial interface, NOT PCM meant for DAC. The 'high quality' part is DAC and further. That is why we critically look at the DAC in the HU.

+1. Domestic wiring cables from Finolex, Havells etc. - just make sure they are the double insulated 'teflon' cables (inner insulation is teflon - white; outer is colored - R / Y / B / G / W; one can make out in cross section).

And it is a good idea to use crimp lugs - quite commonly available in shops in electrical markets. They ensure a good connection.

Temperature resistance is critical for car audio power cable. So check this parameter before you buy

[straight6]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

why not buy finolex cables of the required thickness (16/20sq mm) from an electrical shop? make sure its the flame retardant type!

Originally Posted by DerAlte

+1. Domestic wiring cables from Finolex, Havells etc. - just make sure they are the double insulated 'teflon' cables (inner insulation is teflon - white; outer is colored - R / Y / B / G / W; one can make out in cross section).

And it is a good idea to use crimp lugs - quite commonly available in shops in electrical markets. They ensure a good connection.

When I checked the Havells site it showed 16 and 25 but no 20mm. Which one is the exact equivalent of 4ga? And are these 100% OFC?

Originally Posted by HighwayofLife

Temperature resistance is critical for car audio power cable. So check this parameter before you buy

Will do. In case I don't find anything here thats satisfactory I'll just order Stinger or NVX from the US once and for all.

I'll also upgrade the "Big 3".

[HighwayofLife]

Originally Posted by straight6

Will do. In case I don't find anything here thats satisfactory I'll just order Stinger or NVX from the US once and for all.

I'll also upgrade the "Big 3".

Big 3 upgrade is not necessary for basic installs. The Focal cable you get in most Audio shops suits most requirements. Would suggest you just go with that and keep the RCAs in the kit for any future replacement