Team-BHP - Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenhorn (Post 4120616)

get a tape measure and measure the distances of your drivers from your ears. If you have multiple drivers/channel, use the one which plays the higher frequency.
Once you get the distances, for both left and right you should be good to go.

if you need the time in milliseconds, then time = distance / speed (of sound)

I shall give it a try. Also, please guide as to the time delay. How should this be done?

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenhorn (Post 4121009)

not sure - might be at the amplifier/wiring side also
try eating the head of the original installer. If the HU Swap doesnt cure things, it might also be worth trying a ground loop isolator

hey, if the parts are not visible, how is he going to know if you've swapped them :D

Thanks, greenhorn.

I am busy praying to the gods of music that the new headunit cures the whining.

Regarding swapping the existing setup, the issue is that I will be blowing my install budget in remedying the situation by gifting the senior something in return. I believe the max I can now do is dump the existing JBL coaxial speakers, shift the Focal components to the back and get a new pair of components for the front (any suggestions for components which are not as bright as Focal?).

Best,
Enigmatic

Quote:

Originally Posted by deepfusion (Post 4121160)

I shall give it a try. Also, please guide as to the time delay. How should this be done?

time alignment is usually set in terms of distance or time.
the point of time alignment is to make sure that the sound from all speakers arrive at the same time, so the speakers that are nearer are delayed to compensate.

if you can tell me the measurements and what your equipments configuration screen looks like, i can help better

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenhorn (Post 4121252)

if you can tell me the measurements and what your equipments configuration screen looks like, i can help better

How do I do this? Where do I get the configuration screen?

The distance settings are:

Left mid-133 cms
Right mid-105 cms
left tweeter-133 cms
right tweeter-100 cms
sub-205 cms

This is a typical "local" install. They have no detailed knowledge about all this and their install is just like their local terms used.

I'm guessing they have installed the power and rca cables on the same side of the car, not grounded the amplifier properly and installed an loc (which are usually rubbish quality).

In my opinion you have made a mistake by ordering Pioneer. They have a pico fuse issue because of which you may start getting this whine and thumps every time you switch on/off the hu. Unfotunately, Indians have got Pioneer so much in their head that most overlook this issue. I'm talking from personal experience as just recently I had a Pioneer Fh-X789BT and it developed this issue in 2 months so I sold it and got the Sony WX-900BT. Its so much better. Even the Pioneer service centers dont know about this issue. I will never buy a Pioneer hu until they get rid of this pico fuse.

Please go to ramie and get the system tuned properly as that seems to be the only option. He will confirm if the wiring is CCA or a good brand. You are risking blowing your speakers if gain is not set right and these local guys have absolutely no idea about it and I can't stand them anymore. Ive recently got my system installed from ramie. Will post pics asap.

please:

Hello Experts,

I upgraded my Ecosport's Stock ICE setup with the DD A4 4 channel amplifier 2 pairs of components - DLS MB 6.2 and a memphis Mono Amp with Focals Sub woofer (18"). My car is just 19 months old and my battery just died after being left idle for just 7 days. There was some swelling in the old battery. What could have gone wrong ? What are the steps that I need to take to trouble shoot ? All headlights were OFF and no accesory was attached to the 12v Sockets. Please help !!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by BB311 (Post 4125264)

Doesn't seem to be related to the sound system. Probably a defective battery which you will get replaced in warranty I'm guessing.

Thanks for the response mate !!! However, I changed the battery without involving Ford.

I have damped all the five doors (including boot) however the bass leads to rattling in sun-glass holder and the windshield. Also, some plastic panels in the dashboard rattle when the music is loud. Will this have any long term impact ? Can anything be done to prevent any damage and reduce rattling without lowering the volume ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by BB311 (Post 4126060)

I too have all doors and boot damped but even my parcel tray is damped. Which damping did you use? I don't see any serious ill effects apart from the rattles increasing slowly because not much thought went into what to damp when doing it in the first place.

Quote:

Originally Posted by straight6 (Post 4121481)

This is a typical "local" install. They have no detailed knowledge about all this and their install is just like their local terms used.
...

Please go to ramie and get the system tuned properly as that seems to be the only option. He will confirm if the wiring is CCA or a good brand. You are risking blowing your speakers if gain is not set right and these local guys have absolutely no idea about it and I can't stand them anymore. Ive recently got my system installed from ramie. Will post pics asap.

Thanks straight6,

Finally the whining noise has been eliminated!clap:.

The Pioneer 5890 did the job and it seems to have brought life to the otherwise lifeless system (i.e. other than the monstrosity of bass it used to generate).

I am satisfied with the outcome. However, I would be visiting Ramie soon to get it tuned properly.

Looking forward to your install pics.

Best,
Enigmatic

Quote:

Originally Posted by DerAlte (Post 4097844)

IMHO this amp won't require 4GA - 16mm2 will be good enough for a normal setup.

Gauge reducers will actually reduce the cross-section area, defeating the purpose of using 4GA.

I agree - Gauge reducers reduce the gauge, meaning reducing the cross - section area. Resistance of wire is directly proportional to length and inversely proportional to cross section area. You use bigger gauge wire because you want lower resistance and less power loss through heat/reduce chances of wire burning out. A normal setup will never draw very high power- only those setups like the ones LBM has showcased here will do that

Quote:

Originally Posted by BB311 (Post 4126060)

Also, some plastic panels in the dashboard rattle when the music is loud. Will this have any long term impact ? Can anything be done to prevent any damage and reduce rattling without lowering the volume ?

Get the damping done in all doors and parcel tray. Generally rattles also happen because the frequency of sound is not set correctly, adjust bass frequencies from HU or if no controls there then from amp.

When adjusting the frequencies listen to the track at same volume in which max rattles observed. As the frequencies get changed there would ideally come a point when bass will sound adequate and rattles reduce.

Quote:

Originally Posted by libre sito (Post 4007138)

Any reviews on the Pioneer AVIC-F80BT head unit? A few shops recommend it a lot and a few shops say it hangs often especially during navigation. Any inputs will be helpful as the cost difference is negligible.

I am using AVIC F70BT for the last one yearand it never hanged when in navigation or for that matter in any mode. AVIC F80 in addition has got HDMI input .You can safely go for it..
Regards

HELP!

My Apple CarPlay enabled Pioneer HU does not have BT and the AUX cable is at the rear, :Frustrati all i have is the USB line. It plays perfectly with IPhones but wont read Android. Anyone have any idea if there is anyway to use an Android device on an Apple CarPlay enabled system through USB? Is there an App or something that can help? please: