[condor]

Originally Posted by navin

I assume you mean a HU with a subwoofer RCA out. 15k is about the cheapest I could find.

Sir ji - these look to be 2-din. I need 1-DIN.

Btw, came across this - looks to be a new model. Australia reviews look positive

https://www.kenwood.com/india/car/receiver/kmm-bt304/


6k on Amazon

[navin]

Originally Posted by condor

Need suggestions for a HU with sub-woofer. High-level out is sufficient ( RCA not required). iPod connectivity needed.

Trying to connect a 5-Channel Amp. The Amp has high-level input only.

Originally Posted by condor

Sir ji - these look to be 2-din. I need 1-DIN.

Btw, came across this - looks to be a new model. Australia reviews look positive

https://www.kenwood.com/india/car/receiver/kmm-bt304/


6k on Amazon

The 304 has been replaced by the 305. Like the 304 it too has 3 pre-outs and Time Alignment for the subwoofer.

https://www.kenwood.com/india/car/receiver/kmm-bt305/

The only other option is twice the cost from Pioneer.
https://pioneer-india.in/buy/car-ent...s/deh-x8750bt/

[condor]

Sir ji - one more question. If a HU has 3 pre-outs RCA, will the ISO connector on it also have output for the sub on it ?

My amp takes high-level connectors. And as a guideline the amp documentations say not to use both Low level & high-level at the same time.

Originally Posted by navin

The 304 has been replaced by the 305. Like the 304 it too has 3 pre-outs and Time Alignment for the subwoofer.

Thanks, Navin. However, one possible issue I am noticing is that these HU's need an extra ipod cable to connect /control the ipod. Another 35-40 USD for that. The cost advantage of the 304 seems to get negated here.


Another question - has Kenwood stopped support in India ? Local dealer was saying something on those lines.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by navin

What about the JL Audio FIX 86? It should be better than the Pioneer and the Sony

Absolutely sir. The JL Audio DSP with OEM integration (FIX 86) is miles ahead of Pioneer and Sony. Accepts high level input (can do a 3-way front setup too if required), plus finer adjustments like TA (Time Alignment) etc through TuN software is excellent but AFAIK it costs upwards of ₹45,000 when bought through the official distributor. Since the OP asked for the lower range DSP, I didn't suggest the JL Audio ones.

I'm already in conversation with the official distributor for a JL Audio TwK 88 DSP for my friends setup (MRP is ₹59,990 before discount. Awaiting email response for discount and availability).

EDIT

Originally Posted by condor

Sir ji - one more question. If a HU has 3 pre-outs RCA, will the ISO connector on it also have output for the sub on it ?

Not sure if it there in the ISO connector, see images from owner's manual:

Originally Posted by condor

My amp takes high-level connectors. And as a guideline the amp documentations say not to use both Low level & high-level at the same time.

Which amplifier is this btw?! If there is an option of low level input (RCA), why not go ahead with that rather than high level inputs?!

[PrideRed]

So I was able to get an Amplifier-JBL installed in my Crysta. I am using stock HU and speakers are infinity Reference components in front and coaxials at rear. I am pretty happy with audio output now but there is a fly in the ointment. There is a "shhhhh" noise on all speakers even when volume is at zero, immaterial of the audio source. I have used myTVS cables and ground wire is connected to front seat base.
The noise is a faint one and not audible when volume increases. What could be the problem? Amplifier? Grounding ? Or cable?
I went through other thread but that doesn't seem to be active.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by PrideRed

So I was able to get an Amplifier-JBL installed in my Crysta.

I say grounding point should be the first check you should do. Why not use a 'factory' ground? I mean there will be a point where Toyota has used to ground some wires nearby.

Also how have you passed the wiring in the car? I mean are the power wires laid far away from speaker wires?

I'll say get some better quality wiring also like OFC's from any decent brand or else get hold of good ISI marked household wiring from finolex etc.

[PrideRed]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

I say grounding point should be the first check you should do. Why not use a 'factory' ground? I mean there will be a point where Toyota has used to ground some wires nearby.

Also how have you passed the wiring in the car? I mean are the power wires laid far away from speaker wires?

I'll say get some better quality wiring also like OFC's from any decent brand or else get hold of good ISI marked household wiring from finolex etc.

Thank you. I will re-check grounding. The wires used for speakers are OEM, for amplifier good quality heavy guage ones are used.
The power cable from battery to amp is placed next to speaker wire only at left front door.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by PrideRed

The power cable from battery to amp is placed next to speaker wire only at left front door.

Try moving the speaker wire away from the power wire. Should make a difference and stop the noise being generated.

[navin]

Originally Posted by condor

Sir ji - one more question. If a HU has 3 pre-outs RCA, will the ISO connector on it also have output for the sub on it ?

My amp takes high-level connectors. And as a guideline the amp documentations say not to use both Low level & high-level at the same time.Thanks, Navin. However, one possible issue I am noticing is that these HU's need an extra ipod cable to connect /control the ipod. Another 35-40 USD for that. The cost advantage of the 304 seems to get negated here.


Another question - has Kenwood stopped support in India ? Local dealer was saying something on those lines.

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Absolutely sir. The JL Audio DSP with OEM integration (FIX 86) is miles ahead of Pioneer and Sony.
Which amplifier is this btw?! If there is an option of low level input (RCA), why not go ahead with that rather than high level inputs?!

I happened to speak with another Moderator (Vid6639) yesterday and Condor has sent him some images over WhatsApp (I don't know how to take images from my phone to my PC and post there here).

This is what I understand:

The Amp Condor has is a 5 channel amp with native HIGH level inputs but is also supplied with a set of 5 RCA to Speaker level cables if LOW level inputs are required.

He now wants to use this amp to drive 5 channels - front, rear and subwoofer.

The cheapest solution that came to mind (I told Vid6639 this over the phone) was the Audio Control LC2i.
https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-aud...-upgrade/lc2i/

He could then take the front output from the HU and split it for subwoofer and front speakers. The rear output from the HU would go direct to amp.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIzYgHXTkNo

In case Condor wants to run all 4 channels in to an equaliser then he could consider the LCQ-1 or DQ-61. Here is a comparison chart.
https://www.audiocontrol.com/knowled...er-comparison/
The later offers Time Alignment, the former (like the LC2i) does not. For the $50 difference I would personally take the later.

[condor]

Originally Posted by navin

I happened to speak with another Moderator (Vid6639) yesterday and Condor has sent him some images over WhatsApp

Navin, Vid6639 - thanks for the info & inputs. Vid6639 also helped clear out a lot of doubts

The amp is a Soundstream PN5.640D.
It can take both high-level and low-level connectors. The amp auto-senses the type because the high-level has a ground connector also. The low-level signal & connectors are without a ground


Connectors supplied are 3 sets of high-level and 3 sets of low-level (RCA on one end)



The amp needs exclusive sub input. From posts by other users who have HU with 2 pre-outs, they have used a Y-cable to split the rear into rear+sub.



Some options:
1. Use the LC2i or similar to add a sub-input. This would add another device to the setup. (90-140 $).

( The existing Alpine 126BT HU has been around for 6 years, and has a suspect USB port - I have lost some pendrives. I am using with an iPod connected via a dedicated cable connecting to a port on the rear. )


2. Use the previously mentioned Kenwood KMM-BT304. This has 3 pre-outs. (90$). (The Similarly placed Pioneer has only 2 pre-outs and needs a phone to work with - though it also supports a rear-view camera).

[navin]

Originally Posted by condor

Attachment 1862762

Some options:
1. Use the LC2i or similar to add a sub-input. This would add another device to the setup. (90-140 $).

2. Use the previously mentioned Kenwood KMM-BT304. This has 3 pre-outs. (90$). (The Similarly placed Pioneer has only 2 pre-outs and needs a phone to work with - though it also supports a rear-view camera).

Get the Kenwood (see page 24 in the pdf below). It will provide Time Alignment as well. The LC 2i does not.
http://manual.kenwood.com/files/B5A-2107-00.pdf

[PrideRed]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Try moving the speaker wire away from the power wire. Should make a difference and stop the noise being generated.

Moved the speaker wire away and also scrapped the metal at ground. Checked by adding a Hi-Lo converter but that did not help. The sound increases as I increase the gain in Amp. Have reduced the gain for now and noise is acceptable. That said I would like to see into any other option that can eliminate noise completely.

[supertinu]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

I can think of two DSP's at the lower price range:

• Pioneer DEQ-S1000a - LINK 1 & LINK 2
• Dayton Audio DSP 408 - LINK

As per Pioneer website, the DSP costs 16K roughly. Not sure what the Dayton audio retails at.

Originally Posted by navin

I have been struggling with this question for many years now. A lot of my friends would like better imaging but not everyone has a budget of 40-60k for a DSP. The good ones like the Focal FSP-8, Audision Bit 10 and Bit 1, Rockford 360.3, Alpine PXA-H800 are expensive and the cheap ones like the Pioneer and Sony (see link below) I have not heard enough to recommend yet.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/car-e...ml#post4501443 (Upgrading your OEM Car Audio using DSPs (budget version))

Thanks for the suggestions. I am considering a budget DSP in upcoming months after I am done doing more research about it. Review of the pioneer dsp is very interesting, seems good vfm. Currently its selling for 12K on amazon.

On the same lines this weekend I have improved the direction of the tweeters in my car. Placed some hard foam on the back of the tweeter housing in a way the tweeters are directed upwards and into the cabin towards the head of opposing front passenger. This has made incremental improvements and make the sound a bit more opening up since high frequencies are being heard on axis.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by PrideRed

That said I would like to see into any other option that can eliminate noise completely.

I'll suggest you to try another grounding point. Use locations that manufacturer has used - seat anchor bolts aren't that good grounding points IMHO.

Can you try with the hi-lo converter removed?! If you can't do without the hi-lo converter, check it's grounding point too. If I can ask, which hi-lo converter is this?

[columbus]

Friends finally bit the ICE bullet for my 2010 Fortuner.
I am quoting my earlier post here regarding my requirements.

Originally Posted by columbus

Now the problem starts here. I would love to have nice speaker sets and sub powered by an amp. But i am a sucker for keeping the car in stock condition. I am petrified by the thought of grease monkeys opening all the panels and introducing rattles. So far the car is running rattle free.

Installed the following

Head Unit : Pioneer Z5190BT
Front : JL Audio C1 components
Rear : JL Audio C1 coaxials
Sub : Infiniti BassLink under seat active sub
Steering wheel interface for Toyota

Total Expenses 65k approx

Spent 2 hrs configuring the system on holi, setting it to my taste. And boy am I delighted . The above system install fulfills my requirement to the T. Absolutely beautiful clean sound. Tight bass, lovely midrange and super controlled treble. Lovely detailed sound with great imaging.

It makes even a non singer like me to sing along in the car. Of-course the volume is high enough to mute my not so good voice .