[neeln8]

Originally Posted by PrideRed

Is it possible for me to add underseat compact woofer?If yes, how do I connect?

If the head unit has a separate RCA preamp out for subwoofer, run an RCA cable from that to the RCA input of the underseat subwoofer. Otherwise, use a line out converter (LOC) to convert speaker level output signal from the HU to RCA preamp output and then connect to subwoofer using RCA cable.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by PrideRed

I have a 4 channel JBL amp which drives 4 speakers in each door. Is it possible for me to add underseat compact woofer? If yes, how do I connect? I want to avoid adding a full spec woofer at the boot and also avoid investing on another amp.

Search for 'active' subwoofer. Add that as it has an inbuilt amplifier and being compact can be placed under the driver's seat.

Blaupunkt, Pioneer have active underseat subwoofers.

Link to Pioneer

[PrideRed]

Originally Posted by neeln8

If the head unit has a separate RCA preamp out for subwoofer, run an RCA cable from that to the RCA input of the underseat subwoofer. Otherwise, use a line out converter (LOC) to convert speaker level output signal from the HU to RCA preamp output and then connect to subwoofer using RCA cable.

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Search for 'active' subwoofer. Add that as it has an inbuilt amplifier and being compact can be placed under the driver's seat.

Thank you folks, there seem to be quite a few options. I will look into getting one post lockdown.

[sai_ace]

Has anyone here tried the acustika brand of speakers? a search only showed acustika amplifiers.

[sunnygt]

This is regarding running dual coil sub-woofer on single-coil by bridging the 2 channels of the amplifier that are rated at 75W each @ 4ohms.

The installer has connected the one coil and has set the gain on lower side as per my instructions (SQL setup with just adequate base).

AMP - Flux New 75.4
Sub- DD 212D D4 dual coil rated 100-300W RMS.


Will this single coil connection prove to be stable? I am thinking to get a voltmeter and make sure no more than 150W is being supplied to the single coil.

Opinion guys?

[navin]

Originally Posted by sunnygt

This is regarding running dual coil sub-woofer on single-coil by bridging the 2 channels of the amplifier that are rated at 75W each @ 4ohms.

AMP - Flux New 75.4
Sub- DD 212D D4 dual coil rated 100-300W RMS.

Will this single coil connection prove to be stable? I am thinking to get a voltmeter and make sure no more than 150W is being supplied to the single coil.

Opinion guys?

1. What is the impedance of each coil of the woofer? I am assuming 4 ohms each.
2. Is the amplifier stable at 2 ohms in stereo / 4 ohms in mono?

If you are satisfying BOTH these conditions you should have no problems. Keep in mind the Qes (and hence the Qts) of the subwoofer will change a little since once the coil is "open".

You can even short the coil that is not connected to the amplifier and experiment with the lowered Qes. Depending on box design it might sound nicer.

[sunnygt]

Originally Posted by navin

1. What is the impedance of each coil of the woofer? I am assuming 4 ohms each.
2. Is the amplifier stable at 2 ohms in stereo / 4 ohms in mono?

If you are satisfying BOTH these conditions you should have no problems. Keep in mind the Qes (and hence the Qts) of the subwoofer will change a little since once the coil is "open".

You can even short the coil that is not connected to the amplifier and experiment with the lowered Qes. Depending on box design it might sound nicer.

Yes, the sub-woofer coil is rated at 4 ohms each. The amp is very much bridgable (Minimum Load Stereo: 2 Ohm Min).

Sorry, but I am new to this world of ICE. What do you mean by Qes and how do I lower it down?

[navin]

Originally Posted by sunnygt

Yes, the sub-woofer coil is rated at 4 ohms each. The amp is very much bridgable (Minimum Load Stereo: 2 Ohm Min).

Sorry, but I am new to this world of ICE. What do you mean by Qes and how do I lower it down?

Your amp will drive a single coil of the woofer fine. So that question is answered.

Have you heard of Theil-Small parameters? If not don't worry about Qes and Qts. Just know that if you find there is a bump in the bass, you can try shorting the second (unconnected voice coil) to lower than bump by 0.5-1db.

[sunnygt]

Originally Posted by navin

Your amp will drive a single coil of the woofer fine. So that question is answered.

Have you heard of Theil-Small parameters? If not don't worry about Qes and Qts. Just know that if you find there is a bump in the bass, you can try shorting the second (unconnected voice coil) to lower than bump by 0.5-1db.

I have done some study and I think wiring the sub in series is also an option, the individual channel would see an impedance of 4ohm, a total of 8ohms giving each coil 4ohms. Amp can send a maximum of 150w at 4ohm, and the sub-woofer being rated at 150w-300w RMS, I can set the gain voltage to match it.

This setup shall also make my circuit close and safe.

Am I correct @navin?

[navin]

Originally Posted by sunnygt

I have done some study and I think wiring the sub in series is also an option, the individual channel would see an impedance of 4ohm, a total of 8ohms giving each coil 4ohms. Amp can send a maximum of 150w at 4ohm, and the sub-woofer being rated at 150w-300w RMS, I can set the gain voltage to match it.

You can do this but your amplifier will deliver less than 150W at 8 ohms. Maybe only 100W at 8 ohms.

[KunalMadaan]

I am looking for an amplifier for my swift Dzire. I was using Blaupunkt Velocity from past 5 years and it stood up well till March. My car audio includes JBL subwoofer and Cerwin wega coaxials. Avatar is a new and popular brand nowadays in car audio. Any more information on this particular brand?

[sunnygt]

Originally Posted by KunalMadaan

I am looking for an amplifier for my swift Dzire. I was using Blaupunkt Velocity from past 5 years and it stood up well till March. My car audio includes JBL subwoofer and Cerwin wega coaxials. Avatar is a new and popular brand nowadays in car audio. Any more information on this particular brand?

I would suggest you go with Zapco, Helix, Mosconi. Of course, there are many more to explore but you can't go wrong with either of these.

[wildsdi5530]

On Sunday I installed the Balupunkt New York 750 in my 2015 Honda Mobilio RS. The installer was Sunny CarsNStyle, Vidyaranyapura who is an authorized dealer for Blaupunkt. I chose him as he was close to my place and most of the listings in the forum are very far away for me.
His job was very good and I was impressed by his meticulous work even on a Sunday. There was no 'Can't be done sir' and he actually took effort and did a great job. Plus he is a biker and very well educated, so could have a good conversation.
The Stereo is quite impressive with Apple car play working without a hitch and Android Car play needing some effort. Radio is quite good. The original wiring harness was not a fit for my car so had to get additional cabling. Also the Finisher had to be bought separately.

Couple of Issues that I wanted to be clarified where I need the help of experts.
1. There was no AUX In in the wiring harness, though there is an icon in the home screen I would like the AUX in for connecting my iPod. There were a couple of AUX out wires though.
2. The USB wire provided in the stereo is very short. The Original Honda connector is very weird. I did find an Adaptor on Aliexpress, but none on Amazon/ Flipkart/ etc. Should I just buy an extension USB cord and leave it in the glovebox and leave the original USB cord in the center console in non working state?
3. Am unable to connect to Apple CarPlay wirelessly. It is working perfectly with a cable. So I guess I'm missing something small. Bluetooth Telephony working normally.

Please advice on the above Issues.

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by wildsdi5530

1. There was no AUX In in the wiring harness, though there is an icon in the home screen I would like the AUX in for connecting my iPod. There were a couple of AUX out wires though.
2. The USB wire provided in the stereo is very short. The Original Honda connector is very weird. I did find an Adaptor on Aliexpress, but none on Amazon/ Flipkart/ etc. Should I just buy an extension USB cord and leave it in the glovebox and leave the original USB cord in the center console in non working state?
3. Am unable to connect to Apple CarPlay wirelessly. It is working perfectly with a cable. So I guess I'm missing something small. Bluetooth Telephony working normally.

Please advice on the above Issues.

1. In one of the cable harnesses provided in the box, there is a bunch which contains Aux in video and audio connectors. You will need a cable to convert stereo AV to the RCA pins.
2. You have to either use the front USB port or use an extension cable with the rear port. Using the Honda connector will require some jugaad to connect the rear USB port to the factory port.
3. There are two versions of the New York 750. One has wireless carplay while the other does not have. I have the one without wireless carplay whereas a Bhp-ian I know has the other version. I hope this isnt a deal breaker for you

[wildsdi5530]

Thanks Audioholic.
1. I'll try that
2. Guess I just have to have a dummy wire in my console
3. How can I find out which version I have? Can wireless CarPlay be added through some software update? Why would Blaupunkt do such a stupid thing?