[harshaguduru]

Originally Posted by harshaguduru

hi
i am not a big fan of ICE
but recently was with my brother in law to get an amp and sub fitted.
the details
car: Manza
hu: unchanged
Front: unchanged
rear: pioneer speakers 550watt 6x9 not sure of model number.

amp : JBL gtx646 800w
sub: jbl bass tube 12" gt 1250
wiring : not scosche but not the cheapest either cost him about 1500.
installer is reliable and was recommended by friends

problem:

however whenever the doors are opened there is a minuscule kik-kik-kik sound for about 2 seconds.
the installer says it is common in all cars and that its not problem. they checked the grounding and said everything is fine.

i tried searching for it in the forum but found no hits.
ANY IDEAS?
amp is connected to the sub and rears.

yesterday night i saw the car. the sound is a long beep for about 2 seconds whenever any door is opened when the key is in the ignition. the installer says the wiring has been done properly.
any gurus can offer advice??
a new problem we discovered is that with the volume set to '0' there is small whine much like an electric train taking off while accelerating.
no sound comes when the system is off. for a second we thought we heard the turbo whistle and were very happy about it until we realised it was the damn rear speakers

[swarnava.m]

Originally Posted by harshaguduru

yesterday night i saw the car. the sound is a long beep for about 2 seconds whenever any door is opened when the key is in the ignition. the installer says the wiring has been done properly.
any gurus can offer advice??
a new problem we discovered is that with the volume set to '0' there is small whine much like an electric train taking off while accelerating.
no sound comes when the system is off. for a second we thought we heard the turbo whistle and were very happy about it until we realised it was the damn rear speakers

Not sure about the beeping noise you are talking about, but the whine that you can hear is called "alternator whine". I suspect that your installer has run the power wire of the amp and the RCA cables from the HU to the amp side by side. I mean they are running close to and parallel to each other. In case you know how to dismantle the trim in your car, you can verify this for yourself.

In this case what happens is that the running of the alternator generates some noise which creeps in to the RCA or signal cable (in case you are running line level inputs to the amp). This noise is then reproduced by the speakers which the amp drives.

This can be easily rectified by running the power cable and the RCA cables away from each other, preferably along opposite sides of the vehicle.

[harshaguduru]

Originally Posted by swarnava.m

Not sure about the beeping noise you are talking about, but the whine that you can hear is called "alternator whine". I suspect that your installer has run the power wire of the amp and the RCA cables from the HU to the amp side by side. I mean they are running close to and parallel to each other. In case you know how to dismantle the trim in your car, you can verify this for yourself.

In this case what happens is that the running of the alternator generates some noise which creeps in to the RCA or signal cable (in case you are running line level inputs to the amp). This noise is then reproduced by the speakers which the amp drives.

This can be easily rectified by running the power cable and the RCA cables away from each other, preferably along opposite sides of the vehicle.

thank you very much. will get it checked out today.

the door opening sound is alarming. trying to attach it here

kindly unrar and listen.

once again thank you for your prompt attention and reply

[navin]

Originally Posted by blackfire_9

I understand that a 3-way system essentially has a dedicated mid-range driver to tackle frequencies in the range of 350-3400Hz & that would lead to better clarity, but is the difference really that obvious?

3 way systems of equal quality (as 2 way systems) are significantly more expensive as they require not only the extra midrange component but also often twice the number of crossover components are a bit more care in crossover design (to get right).

Their significant advantage is that they have a dedicated component (midrange) to cover the 300-3000hz range (not all 3 ways have a midrange that covers this range) and this improves intelligibility (if done correctly).

Originally Posted by harshaguduru

the door opening sound is alarming. trying to attach it here..kindly unrar and listen.

I tried but all I cold hear was a few syllables in the middle of that sound-sample.

Is this sound only when the door is open?

[harshaguduru]

I tried but all I cold hear was a few syllables in the middle of that sound-sample.

Is this sound only when the door is open?

[/quote]

really? the sound sample is the noise when the door is open. the syllable is me asking him to open it again.
yes sound comes only when door is open and lasts for 2-3seconds at most.
another detail i should mention is that the audio is turned off when this happens. so as not to make a khichidi ill try put the sequence in points

1) car stops-key in ignition- audio turned off
2) when the door is opened
3)door light turns on and the sound starts.
4) after 3seconds sounds goes off followed by door light after a couple of seconds more.

5) when key is removed and door is opened there is no sound.


are u unable hear the keeeeee.... sound. its pretty prominent. maybe i have uploaded it wrongly. it the sound just before and after i say the word malli(again).

also the installer asked us to install a noise filter is it necessary?

other than this everything is fine. audio sounds good. the amp has made the rear speakers sound better.
one thing is that the guy said this is common in recent cars. don't know if he is clueless or just bullcrapping his way out of fixing it.

thank you for having a look at it.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by harshaguduru

... the sound is a long beep for about 2 seconds whenever any door is opened when the key is in the ignition. ... volume set to '0' there is small whine much like an electric train taking off while accelerating. ...

1. Isn't that the 'door open' alarm? It is meant to warn the driver (if key is in switch, it is assumed that driver is present). Also warns the driver if the driver steps out leaving key in switch

2. Yes, that is alternator whine. Check the grounding of the amp. Connect it again after scraping the contact point to bare metal, and using a brass / copper washer

[harshaguduru]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

1. Isn't that the 'door open' alarm? It is meant to warn the driver (if key is in switch, it is assumed that driver is present). Also warns the driver if the driver steps out leaving key in switch

2. Yes, that is alternator whine. Check the grounding of the amp. Connect it again after scraping the contact point to bare metal, and using a brass / copper washer

no it is not the door open alarm..the door open alarm is a mild beep-beep-beep.. this is a loud kiiiiiiiiiiiiii. sounds like when a mic is being set up on a stage. in the audio sample i have attached. you can hear both the door opening alarm in the background and loud kiiiiiiii.

thank you for taking the time to solve this.

[navin]

Originally Posted by harshaguduru

1) car stops-key in ignition- audio turned off
2) when the door is opened
3)door light turns on and the sound starts.
4) after 3seconds sounds goes off followed by door light after a couple of seconds more.

5) when key is removed and door is opened there is no sound.


are u unable hear the keeeeee.... sound.

Might be that my laptop speakers do not go that high.

However from the sequence of events it looks like feedback. Could i tbe that the door alarm buzer is very close to some input on the amp. Is the sound akin to the feedback howl we get when we get a mic too close to a speaker?

[harshaguduru]

Originally Posted by navin

Might be that my laptop speakers do not go that high.

However from the sequence of events it looks like feedback. Could i tbe that the door alarm buzer is very close to some input on the amp. Is the sound akin to the feedback howl we get when we get a mic too close to a speaker?

will look into it. sounds a bit like feedback but very strong.
wont have access to the car for a couple of days but will update after confirming/ruling out your advice.
or else will try to record it better. its not very high. very audible on my phone. the mistake i did is using voice record. will shoot it as video if required will be easier to upload,

thanks for all your input(pun intended).

[gendarmee]

Hi,

The ikon had been fit with the following, prior to delivery, at the showroom.

• Sony CDX-GT560 Reciever.
• Sony XS GF1022X Front speakers(very small in size)
• Sony XS GF6932X Rear speakers

Now then, the problem is that the front speakers lack in completely lack volume(read inaudible) & bass when used along with the rear speakers.
When the fader is used to turn off the rear speakers, they sound rather muffled. Also, what reads front on the reciever/fader works for the rear speakers, and rear for front.

The S.A., back then, said that this was b/c wired couldnt be cut as this would void the the warranty hence speakers with compatible sockets had to be fixed.

Can someone suggest if changing the front speakers/re-wiring or both could make music sound fuller?

Thanks

[navin]

Originally Posted by gendarmee

Also, what reads front on the reciever/fader works for the rear speakers, and rear for front.

The S.A., back then, said that this was b/c wired couldnt be cut as this would void the the warranty hence speakers with compatible sockets had to be fixed.

Can someone suggest if changing the front speakers/re-wiring or both could make music sound fuller?

1. Sony does not make very good car audio. You can do better for the money.

2. Your SA was mistaken. The speakers sockets are usually the same for front or rear. Even if they are different any speaker wires can be inserted into either socket.

3. That said you have 4" front speaker that have limited bass ability and 6x9s for the rear. To add to this the biggr rear speakers are on the deck and are loaded by the trunk (big space).

If you want to reduce the muffled sound of the front speakers a bass blocker will help. See post 2577 here.
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/ask-gu...new-q-172.html

A bass blocker is basically a capacitor in series with the speaker (see link below). I find wiring 2 470uf capacitors back to back (in series) works for most situations.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-8z8yufH...ion_guide.html

Here is a chart if you want to choose your own crossover frequency
http://assets.sonicelectronix.com/im...uencychart.png

[nitinralli]

I have this strange issue with my ICE. When i start my car first thing in the morning, i get a loud "boom" from the speakers or maybe just the woofer. Now the real issue is, that this happens only once when my car has not been driven for some time (lets say 6-7 hours). This is the reason i cant re-create this in front of my installer. Though i took this matter with him few times and it used to get solved for some time but it comes up all over again.

@Navin, do you know what could be the reason behind this. And why does it not happen again after driving for some time.

[swarnava.m]

My knowledge in ICE is very limited, but the symptoms somehow leads me to think "Battery!!"

A question here. Does this happen the moment you turn the key to 'ON' position, or only after you crank the engine?

Also, post the equipment you are using. Might help.

[nitinralli]

Originally Posted by swarnava.m

My knowledge in ICE is very limited, but the symptoms somehow leads me to think "Battery!!"

A question here. Does this happen the moment you turn the key to 'ON' position, or only after you crank the engine?

Also, post the equipment you are using. Might help.

It happens the moment i crank the engine.

As for the equipment, i have audison Bit 10 connected to standard HU ( its an XUV), 2 Amps (JBL1004 and DLS RA20), DLS amp powering front comps (Alpine SPX PRO) and JBL amp running Morel coax at the back and IDV3 sub. All this is connected with Kicker dual amp wiring.

[swarnava.m]

Originally Posted by nitinralli

It happens the moment i crank the engine.

As for the equipment, i have audison Bit 10 connected to standard HU ( its an XUV), 2 Amps (JBL1004 and DLS RA20), DLS amp powering front comps (Alpine SPX PRO) and JBL amp running Morel coax at the back and IDV3 sub. All this is connected with Kicker dual amp wiring.

Okay, I will leave this to the more entitled ones.

As you say it happens the moment you crank the engine, could it probably be due to a surge from the alternator the moment it starts?

Has this problem started occurring all of a sudden or did you add/remove/modify anything after which it started?

If it has started on its own, then maybe you should get your alternator checked from an A$$ or a competent mechanic.