[condor]

Originally Posted by navin

Get the Kenwood (see page 24 in the pdf below). It will provide Time Alignment as well. The LC 2i does not.

Navin, Viddy - Thank you !

I got the Kenwood on Thursday last week, and we installed it on Sunday. A well spent 6k !

The HU is darn light - just 600 grams. Good that it is solid state - no motors, etc. The box showed enough signs of being dropped. The corners of the box had crush marks.





Since we had previously de-coupled the HU from OE speaker wiring, we only had to provide power to the HU, and the antenna & mic connections. (done when we had put in a 4-channel amp). The output from the HU to the Soundstream Picasso Nano PN5.640D is through 3 pairs of RCA cables. The amp came with connectors (see my prev post here). Output from the amp to speakers is through 14 ga speaker wires (Amazon Basics).

Pics of the HU (default display color. It must have 3x7 levels of colors), and the Amp below the seat. Yet to tidy up the wiring.





The HU is a nice piece! Key features advertised were Time Alignment, and the ability to play FLAC, WMA, and AAC audio formats. And made for iPod / iPhone. But get into the settings, and it opens up a whole lot of features. I am yet to check them all out, but one feature I really liked was the space enhancer kind of thing - the setting makes the output sound like one is in a larger space than the confines of a car.

One can set the size of the speakers & the sub. Is it part of the Time Alignment ?

One other feature seems to compensate for external High Frequency sounds. This is one of the many features I am yet to check.

Definitely recommended for Budget set ups. Navin had mentioned that the KMM-BT304 is EOL - and the BT305 being the current model.

And before I sign-off, a special thanks to that friend who spared his time again for me to set this up.

[navin]

Originally Posted by condor

One can set the size of the speakers & the sub. Is it part of the Time Alignment ?

No sir, size of speakers is not part of Time Alignment. It normally helps the HU set the crossover points.

[condor]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Not sure if it there in the ISO connector, see images from owner's manual:

Anurag, the BT304 was supplied with a connector that plugged into the HU on one end, and open wires on the other side. This made it easy to couple it to a connector like this one (the double one):



The port on the BT304, and the connector (still in it's packing).

[wrongturn]

After reading a lot of good things about Focal here on team-BHP, I'd bought Focal Auditor+ RSE - 165 PSI component speakers. They did not last 4 days and then I experienced the worst kind of ASS. They first sent me used speakers with different serial numbers out of which 1 had a hole fixed with silicone. I immediately returned it, thereafter today I received the replacement, which are brand new but after 6 months

This wasn't the end of bad news, the dealer further advised to use them carefully as Focal has exited India.

Can anyone confirm the same?

[Enigmatic]

Guys, need your help again.

Current set-up:
Head Unit - Pioneer 599BT
Front Components - Focal KR2
Rear Components - Focal ISS-165
Subwoofer - JBL CSX-1400BP
Amplifier powering the front and rear components - Pioneer GM-D8604
Amplifier powering the subwoofer - JBL GX-A646SI

I earlier had an issue with my Blaupunkt amplifier which was powering the components. It would cut out during the slightest of load. The amplifier was identified as being the source of the problem and I had it replaced with a Pioneer GM-D8604. This being a Class D amplifier I thought it would be able to run the components in the front and back without any issues.

The system has been running fine for the past 5 months. However, recently I have been noticing that the Pioneer amplifier (powering the components) has starting cutting out when the bass hits at moderately high volumes. The JBL amplifier powering the subwoofer continues to work fine when the Pioneer amplifier cuts out. This results in a momentary (i.e. 1 second) loss of sound from the components while the subwoofer continues to work. After this 1 second gap, everything is fine again.

Since this is an issue that I had with the Blaupunkt amplifier and the same appears to be creeping into the current set-up, I am wondering what is going wrong. I did a bit of reading on this issue and the most common answer to this problem is a bad ground wire from the amplifier. However, since the Pioneer amplifier was installed by a reputed installer, through whom I also had the entire wiring re-done, I am not inclined to go with this approach.

What do you guys think is the issue here?

Best,
Enigmatic

[navin]

Originally Posted by Enigmatic

The system has been running fine for the past 5 months. However, recently I have been noticing that the Pioneer amplifier (powering the components) has starting cutting out when the bass hits at moderately high volumes.

Test this with a newer car battery. Your battery is running out of juice and below the threshold required by the Pioneer amp.

Lets say (arbitrarily) the Pioneer amp only operates above 12V while the JBL amp can tolerate 11.5V. If the car battery's voltage drops below 12V (the battery is not charging as fast as it is drained) the Pioneer amp will cut off while the JBL amp still runs. Meanwhile the battery gets the opportunity to charge back up to 12V and then the Pioneer amp is fine again until the voltage falls below 12V.

GTO had a similar problem some time back
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/car-e...lved-steg.html (Car audio losing sound at low rpms! EDIT : Solved by "The Steg")

[Enigmatic]

Originally Posted by navin

Test this with a newer car battery. Your battery is running out of juice and below the threshold required by the Pioneer amp.

Lets say (arbitrarily) the Pioneer amp only operates above 12V while the JBL amp can tolerate 11.5V. If the car battery's voltage drops below 12V (the battery is not charging as fast as it is drained) the Pioneer amp will cut off while the JBL amp still runs. Meanwhile the battery gets the opportunity to charge back up to 12V and then the Pioneer amp is fine again until the voltage falls below 12V.

GTO had a similar problem some time back
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/car-e...lved-steg.html (Car audio losing sound at low rpms! EDIT : Solved by "The Steg")

Thanks for the quick response, Navin.

I had a new, higher capacity, battery installed about the same time I got the Pioneer amplifier (i.e. about 5 months back).

I do understand what you are saying. Maybe the alternator is unable to charge the battery as quickly as it is getting drained. If that is the case, what should be the solution? Would adding a capacitor help?

I had read through GTO's post on this issue earlier while changing the amplifier. The STEG amplifiers did solve the issue in his car. I was hoping that the Pioneer amplifier would solve the same in mine, but here we are.

Best,
Enigmatic

[navin]

Originally Posted by Enigmatic

I do understand what you are saying. Maybe the alternator is unable to charge the battery as quickly as it is getting drained. If that is the case, what should be the solution? Would adding a capacitor help?

I had read through GTO's post on this issue earlier while changing the amplifier. The STEG amplifiers did solve the issue in his car. I was hoping that the Pioneer amplifier would solve the same in mine, but here we are.

Steg amps can operate as low as 11V so they did help GTO. In GTO's case his amps would switch off for more than a few milliseconds hence we had to switch amps that are stable at less than 11.5V.

A capacitor wont help as the alternator will have to now charge the battery and the capacitor. Think of the battery as just a big capacitor.

Try 2 JBL amps. They seem to operate at lower than 12V while the Pioneer's don't.

[Enigmatic]

Originally Posted by navin

Steg amps can operate as low as 11V so they did help GTO. In GTO's case his amps would switch off for more than a few milliseconds hence we had to switch amps that are stable at less than 11.5V.

A capacitor wont help as the alternator will have to now charge the battery and the capacitor. Think of the battery as just a big capacitor.

Try 2 JBL amps. They seem to operate at lower than 12V while the Pioneer's don't.

Thanks, Navin.

Heading to Ramie's shop tomorrow. Hopefully he will be able to figure out why this repeatedly keeps on happening.

Quite sick of this whole issue with the Civic's ELD wherein it won't let the alternator charge the battery before the voltage reaches a particular threshold.

Best,
Enigmatic

[vnabhi]

Originally Posted by drhoneycake

I have the Sony XAV-AX5000, so I’ll compare that against your list.

1. Check. Absolutely beautiful screen and brilliant touch response. There is no multitouch though
2. Check. Works. Tried with a friend’s oneplus5
3. Check. Works like a charm. iPhone X, iPhone 5S and iPhone 7 all worked.
4. Discs are dead, no new units come with a disc slot anymore. Also this Sony unit has no AUX input
5. Japanese&Korean cars need no extra hardware to integrate into the Sony Unit. It also allows you to configure the steering controls as well.

We paid 20k on Amazon. It’s a fantastic unit. Do check it out.

Did you have to buy a panel for a perfect fit? Does the USB slot charge the phone that is connected to it for Carplay or Andoid Auto?
Do you have USB wires dangling to connect to, as I believe the slots are behind the unit?

[vnabhi]

Originally Posted by vnabhi

Did you have to buy a panel for a perfect fit? Does the USB slot charge the phone that is connected to it for Carplay or Andoid Auto?
Do you have USB wires dangling to connect to, as I believe the slots are behind the unit?

Bump bump. I am seriously considering the Sony XAV 3000 and the Blaupunkt Monte Carlo 750 to replace the stock 6-cd changer in my Fiesta. I found both to have similar specs (both have single USB), but the Sony has more adjustments on the Graphic Equaizer, while the Blaupunkt has only 3. But the Blaupunkt is Rs 3000 cheaper.

I am curious to know if the Sony unit charges the phone battery when it is connected for Car play or Android Auto. I read on this thread that the Blaupunkt does not as it has only 1.5 A charge.

Would appreciate a prompt response from any users here.

[suku_patel_22]

Originally Posted by vnabhi

Bump bump. I am seriously considering the Sony XAV 3000 and the Blaupunkt Monte Carlo 750 to replace the stock 6-cd changer in my Fiesta. I found both to have similar specs (both have single USB), but the Sony has more adjustments on the Graphic Equaizer, while the Blaupunkt has only 3. But the Blaupunkt is Rs 3000 cheaper.

Do both of them come with a capacitive touch screen? A HU with capacitive touch screen would be much more easier to use.

[vnabhi]

Originally Posted by suku_patel_22

Do both of them come with a capacitive touch screen? A HU with capacitive touch screen would be much more easier to use.

Yes, both have capacitive touch screens.

[self_driven]

Originally Posted by vnabhi

Yes, both have capacitive touch screens.

IIRC, Sony XAV 3000 has a resistive touch screen.

Edit: Yes it is resistive. Check here under User Interface.

[vnabhi]

Originally Posted by self_driven

IIRC, Sony XAV 3000 has a resistive touch screen.

Edit: Yes it is resistive. Check here under User Interface.

I was not aware. But is there a big difference between capacitive and resistive? Which one do you think is better?