Team-BHP
(
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)
Dear Gurus,
After reading through numerous posts i came to a conclusion that its not advisable to under power a sub (Esp when one likes to play at high volumes)
My Audio Set up Is as below:
- Head Pio 5050UB (3 RCA Preouts)
- An entry level, puny 2 Channel Amp (JBL GT A402 - 40W RMS x 2) powers my Back door Coaxials (Hertz DCX 165 - 60W RMS x 2)
- My 4 Channel (Blaupunkt GTA 480 - 75W RMS x 2) Drives my Front Compos (DSK 165 - 80W RMS x 2)
- The other two Channels of GTA 480 are bridged (225W RMS x 1) to Power my Sub (300W RMS).
Now My question is, for someone who loves to play loud and hard, is this setup fine. I dont want to damage my Speakers/Subs as i would like to maintain this setup for atleast 3-4 years.
Now how would you rate the below set-up (Which i am planning to Do)
- Head Pio 5050UB (3 RCA Preouts)
- My 4 Channel (Blaupunkt GTA 480 - 75W RMS x 4) Drives my Front Compos (DSK 165 - 80W RMS x 2) and Back door Coaxials (Hertz DCX 165 - 60W RMS x 2)
- Get a new MonoBlock Amp (rated at 300W - 320W RMS @4Ohms) and power my Sub (300W RMS).
Please do suggest the better setup. Also, is there a Class A/B monoblock ? (I found this Product has Class A/B monoblock - Rockford Fosgate Prime R500-1)
Thanks in advance
Try sourcing a 2 channel amp from USA that does 300+ W RMS @ 4 ohm.
More than enough power and good flexibility. I always advice a 2 channel over a mono as it gives more freedom on system config options.
In that case what is the maximum limit (RMS) i can opt for ?
I am asking this question as there are a couple of 2-Channel Amps pumping out close to 500W RMS @ 4 in ohm bridged mode. Can i use those safely or i need to hunt for something close to 320 RMS or So ?.
The Difficulty is there are plenty of options available at 220 - 275 RMS but 300 - 375W there isnt much available :Frustrati
You can get the 500W RMS one and keep the gains reasonable. Hell, you can use a 1000W amp on your 300W sub if you keep the gains low, and make sure you are not sending too much power to the sub by playing at super high volumes. You are sure to fry it if the installer bumps up all the gains and switches on bass boost etc from the amp, and also sets the head unit EQ to boost lower frequencies. Make sure you start from ZERO when tuning, and slowly bump up the dial till you like it.
Thanks a lot pal. I am planning to source this from US. How good are Kicker, JL Audio and MTX ? I mean i am fairly new to all this. Are they in the leauge of Alpines/Illusion or Kenwood/Pioneer or ../.. ?
Kicker amps for subs are expensive. JL is expensive too!
Kenwood excelon would be good VFM. Also, see if you can get a good deal on the RF amps.
Thanks dude. Any specific (best VFM) places to buy from US ? Like amazon / Cruchfield ?
Keep any eye out for a deal. there are a lot of sites. if you want to compare prices, then use pricegrabber.com
And make sure you keep checking amazon.com and buy.com, since you will find really amazing deals on them sometimes!
NOw again my confusion starts:deadhorse.
Did you notice that this RF is of Class AB
Of my understanding so far, a Class D Amp is used as a monoblock. and a normal 2 Channel / 4 channel Amp uses Class AB.
Now if Class AB sounds more musical then why bridge a 2 channel AB when u get a Monoblock AB ?
What to choose now ?
RF Prime R500-1 Monoblock (320 Watt Mono)
or
RF Power P300-2 (300 Watt 2-Channel Amplifier)
dont worry about all of that nonsense. I did, when I was buying an amp too. but i have bought a LOT of amps, and some were class d, some class ab, some class G, and now glass g/h.
It's all in the internals. You neednt worry what it is. You just worry about whether and how it makes its rated power or not.. Period
Quote:
Originally Posted by frankmehta
(Post 1472621)
dont worry about all of that nonsense. I did, when I was buying an amp too. but i have bought a LOT of amps, and some were class d, some class ab, some class G, and now glass g/h.
It's all in the internals. You neednt worry what it is. You just worry about whether and how it makes its rated power or not.. Period
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+1 for the sentence in bold.
I was also thinking that this class A,B,C etc was like a grade to the amp. Only off late realised that its the rated power and VFM to look for.
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