[shuvc]

Originally Posted by m4ugr8

Nice and neat looking install shuvc, One question regarding damping the front doors.

After covering the entire door, the outer skin, there is the power window motor, after damping any issues with that?? In my car damping I have damped only the outer metal skin. Did not cover it due to the motor, but I see here you have done all three stages.

Thanks.

No issues with the power window motor due to this step in the damping process.
The OE 'foam' that covers the motor, was pasted again as it was, before the damping material was used. So the damping material is not in direct contact with the motor but with the OE 'foam' over that area.

I like your second woofer

Haha. Btw, that woofer does not need an amp !

[m4ugr8]

Right, thanks for the reply. Need to get this done ASAP. Always felt my front doors need more damping.

[razor4077]

Have you felt any discernible reduction in SQ when using the line convertor, as opposed to the usual HU -> amp config?

Originally Posted by shuvc

Haha. Btw, that woofer does not need an amp!

Active woofer? Snuffles and "active" don't go together though... lol!

[shuvc]

Originally Posted by razor4077

Have you felt any discernible reduction in SQ when using the line convertor, as opposed to the usual HU -> amp config?

Discernible? Nope.

But then as I said, my main reference point is the Baleno setup. And there the HU is arguably an entry level Pio.

I'd think that Alpine would a minimum standard for the stock HU. I mean would they specifically develop inferior quality stuff for Honda, compared to the entry level HU's they sell in the market? I'm referring to the basic electronics and not features. My hunch is that the stock Alpine should be comparable to the Pio 4950.

I also have a hunch (too lazy to A/B the subs to verify it) that the JBL sub sounds 'punchier' than the GZ. Could it be that the 75.4 has ~40w more rated rms power than the JBL and ~60w less than what the GZ needs? Or could it be due to the box size? The GZ enclosure is bigger than that of the JBL - looks 1.5 times the size.

I'd still like to play around a bit with the amp settings. Am constrained by the fact the gain is inducing whine. It's also a pain in the Civic, since the rear seatback is fixed. One needs to half-climb into the boot, tweak a bit, close the boot, get inside the car, close the door and listen ... and then get out, open the boot .. repeat procedure. Thankfully the control for 75.4 are on the top. This exercise would be really frustrating with amps that have controls on the sides (for eg, my MBQ).

[shuvc]

Formatted an old 80GB HDD to FAT32. Voila ! Loads of music now in the car.

HDD recognition and load is pretty quick.

Scrolling through the folders quickly is a tad painful. I mean, scrolling itself is quite quick, but it takes 2-3 seconds for the tag info to show up (Album/Artist/Song .. whichever it is set to display). So if one needs to check the tag display and then scroll to the next, it would take some time.

I have around 250 folders/sub-folders which are alphabetically sorted by Artist name. So I guess it's a matter of time till I have a general 'idea' of where a particular folder will be. I could then quickly scroll to say around folder 130-140 and then wait for those 2-3 secs to look at the name tags. Scrolling time should be quicker then.

[shuvc]

One Illusion Electra crossover is acting up. There is no output from the woofer out terminals. The tweeters are playing. Speaker connection at the door checked and is fine. I checked the crossover directly from the output screws with a spare tweeter - no sound from the woofer out.

What could be the issue? Any diy tips?

[nitrous]

Originally Posted by shuvc

One Illusion Electra crossover is acting up. There is no output from the woofer out terminals. The tweeters are playing. Speaker connection at the door checked and is fine. I checked the crossover directly from the output screws with a spare tweeter - no sound from the woofer out.

What could be the issue? Any diy tips?

The crossover is open to the elements.
Can't you just replace the crossover?
Or PM B&T, he might be able to help you out.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by shuvc

One Illusion Electra crossover is acting up. There is no output from the woofer out terminals. The tweeters are playing. Speaker connection at the door checked and is fine. I checked the crossover directly from the output screws with a spare tweeter - no sound from the woofer out. ...

Not the right way of checking output! Tweeters won't get *anything* that they can handle at the mid-bass terminals.

Sounds like a simple soldering issue. If you have a multimeter, you can trace and isolate the faulty point (in resistance or continuity test mode). Start from the Out+ to the PCB and work your way towards the Out-. The circuit diagram would be there on the XO housing or cover, or on the PCB upper surface.

[shuvc]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Sounds like a simple soldering issue.

Debugger par excellence ! I bow to thee once more !

The car isn't used much, hence I was living with this issue for the past few months. Recently some speaker static even in the stereo off mode finally got me working on it.

I took out the crossover, opened it up and didn't even have to use a multimeter. A quick naked eye inspection revealed a wire had broken off from the solder point. Brought out an old soldering iron I had lying around and voila! All speakers are a go again !

Btw, would there be any significant audible difference based on the direction in which the sub in the boot faces?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by shuvc

... would there be any significant audible difference based on the direction in which the sub in the boot faces?

There definitely would be. Integration of the sub output with the front image depends on the phase at which the sound wave from the sub is arriving at your ears (w.r.t. the rest of the music).

Phase relates to the wavelength, and that relates to the propagation distance - hence to the size of the car and the boot. Though possible, it is difficult to formulate and equation which would give the right answer. A good substitute is finding out empirically - turn the sub gradually from rear facing to front facing in, say, 90 degree increments. At some point you will find the integration better than at other points.