Firstly, one important thing that GTO forgot to mention here, is that after this problem started, once he had the car parked for 3 days. Not started, not used. The 4th day, when he used the car, he did not face this problem. It re-surfaced a day later.
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Originally Posted by NetfreakBombay Battery should not be in picture since power to ICE would be fed by alternator in a moving car. But since other components are working fine, this should not be alternator issue. |
When the draw exceeds the capacity of the alternator, the battery supplies the additional current.
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Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi Firstly, those Yellow-Top batteries were never made by Amaron, they were Optima batteries imported by Amaron, a project that flopped very badly. Whoever has bought those batteries has neither recd his money's worth nor any service. Stay FAR away from these. |
I told GTO about this. If in case he gets the Optima, I asked him to make sure he has foolproof warranty documentation.
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Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi However my question: You have 3 amplifiers in the car. ARe they all running off this 1/0 amplifier wiring kit? If yes then you must have some electrical distribution system. I would begin by looking there. |
Its fine. I have checked the voltage at the battery, and then at the amp's power terminals. The voltage is exactly the same, under the same conditions.
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Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi Also when you say that the volume dips - does it dip across the board? I mean does it dip from the front, rear and subwoofer? Or is it just the fronts or rears? Or since you say that you have one 2 channel amplifier for the left and another for the right speakers (an unusual arrangement) - then does the sound dip only from the left or right? |
This is very hard to catch. Its a very erratic thing. In a 10min spin that GTO took me for, the system dipped twice. It happens for a fraction of a second. And its very hard to tell if its just front or just rear. I felt the sub amp stayed on. Could be wrong. By the way, I tested the car for a very long time with the car stationary, and idling, with the aircon and headlights on. This, IMO, is a worse situation than bumper to bumper traffic from a power PoV. But the sound didn't dip even once.
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Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi If it is just one amplifier acting up, this problem will be easy to solve. |
I suspected that the amps driving the mid-tops were probably not as kind to momentary voltage drops, and hence suggested he use a different amplifier for a few days to see if the problem persists. This would have helped narrow down to the cuplrit.
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Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi Capacitors will solve nothing. IMO. |
I have advised him the same. Waste of money.
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Originally Posted by CrackedHead Any evidence of sparking/corrosion at your fuse/distribution block ? Did you try connecting a voltmeter? |
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Originally Posted by Invinsible I believe the amps is not getting the desired current at idle and the culprit could be the battery or weak alternator. |
The voltage was healthy at battery and amp when I last checked, with the headlights and system etc running. Alternator seems fine.
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Originally Posted by Prass you can try checking the contact between the Power cable and ring connector which is bolted to the battery terminal, if power cable is not soldered to the ring connector. |
Its a crimped joint. If there is any problem here, or anywhere along the power cable, the amplifiers would be going nuts all the time. Not just in some situations.
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Originally Posted by DerAlte Is there any speed dependent volume control feature in the HU? Haven't seen that in Japanese design HUs though. |
No, the 4250 doesn't have Pioneer's "ASL".
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Originally Posted by m-hawk . O yes I can vouch for that my civic has speed dependent volume feature higher the rpm the volume goes higher too !! |
GTO isn't using the stock head unit.
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Originally Posted by navin If however all 3 amps are cutting out together I would check what they share in common - the distribution block. |
They also share a lot of other things. Like the battery, for instance.
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Originally Posted by navin which is why i suggested getting a 1-2F capacitor with a voltmeter. |
In GTO's car, that capacitor will never even get fully charged! He's pelofying it non-stop.