[fine69]

I would suggest you to get one good sub instead of two entry level subs. I was planning on getting two 1214's myself but after taking all the advise I got from here I settled for a single MKII

Do you mean GZ MKII? Is it still available in the market? I couldn't locate it on the website and 30T seems to retail somewhere around 9k if I'm not wrong (which is out of my budget).

I don't think given your budget a dual sub setup would be a good choice.

Heart says I should get 2 subs but in my head somewhere I feel that getting 1 sub for 7-8k makes more sense.

[fine69]

Hours and days of reading through threads, getting recommendations and almost going into depression because of my inability to audition certain component speakers I still managed to finalize (almost) the setup for my car:

HU - JBL x333
Front Components - Morel Maximo (shall audition every other comp in this price range as well on D-day)
Sub - ID CTX 12" in ported enclosure (shall also audition Bull/JBL subs on D-day but doubt if they are any match for the ID sub based on what I've read)
Amp - JBL GTO 1004 (I hope its not an overkill for a 175 rms sub, this question posted on another thread already)

This was finalized after my visit to Driven again today. They have an entire roll of power cables (different gauges) and as told to me they'd be using the power cables from that roll (can't recall the brand) and hence I've not specified the power kit separately. (it'd still cost 3k)

The total cost of the setup would be around 35500/- (excluding dampening and if I finalize Morel Maximo)

I have a question for the audio gurus though, what gauge power cable should be used for such a system - 4/6/8? (and if you could share how its determined)

Also, is there only right one set of dimensions for a ported enclosure? I mean if boot space isn't an issue for me would increasing the capacity of the enclosure (proportionately) give me a louder output without compromising on the quality of the sound?

[abhibh]

Originally Posted by fine69

Hours and days of reading through threads, getting recommendations and almost going into depression because of my inability to audition certain component speakers I still managed to finalize (almost) the setup for my car:

HU - JBL x333
Front Components - Morel Maximo (shall audition every other comp in this price range as well on D-day)
Sub - ID CTX 12" in ported enclosure (shall also audition Bull/JBL subs on D-day but doubt if they are any match for the ID sub based on what I've read)
Amp - JBL GTO 1004 (I hope its not an overkill for a 175 rms sub, this question posted on another thread already)

This was finalized after my visit to Driven again today. They have an entire roll of power cables (different gauges) and as told to me they'd be using the power cables from that roll (can't recall the brand) and hence I've not specified the power kit separately. (it'd still cost 3k)

The total cost of the setup would be around 35500/- (excluding dampening and if I finalize Morel Maximo)

I have a question for the audio gurus though, what gauge power cable should be used for such a system - 4/6/8? (and if you could share how its determined)

Also, is there only right one set of dimensions for a ported enclosure? I mean if boot space isn't an issue for me would increasing the capacity of the enclosure (proportionately) give me a louder output without compromising on the quality of the sound?

4-5GA wiring kit should be enough for the setup. Just a suggestion if you plan to go down iD CTX route then stick with sealed enclosure.

[fine69]

Originally Posted by abhibh

4-5GA wiring kit should be enough for the setup. Just a suggestion if you plan to go down iD CTX route then stick with sealed enclosure.

What's the calculation behind determining the gauge/spec of the power cables?
The reason for a ported enclosure is to get more SPL but since you are recommending a sealed enclosure I'd appreciate the logic if shared, thanks.

[Astleviz]

4 gauge wiring should be ideal for gto 1004.

Here's a link for you to calculate the gauge/spec for the wires for a given wattage-
Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes

BTW, another sub you might want to consider is infinity 1260w, rated at 300w rms at 4 ohms. It's currently available on ebay global for 4500 bucks-
http://orders.ebay.in/ws/eBayISAPI.d...d=330534900811

Or if you can stretch your budget for the sub from 8000 bucks to 9000 bucks, you can get infinity kappa 120.9w.
http://orders.ebay.in/ws/eBayISAPI.d...d=330529344142

[fine69]

Originally Posted by Astleviz

4 gauge wiring should be ideal for gto 1004.

Here's a link for you to calculate the gauge/spec for the wires for a given wattage-
Recommended Power and Ground Cable Sizes

Oh, so its rms + distance (length) of cable used. Here the rms is per amp or per channel? (I hope the question isn't too stupid)

Another query unresolved is the sub enclosure dimensions, anybody?

@Astleviz: How are ID and Infinity (ref only as Kappa is way over budget) subs when compared? both SPL & SQ-wise

[thelord]

The iD CTX can take that much power easily but to be honest, I wouldn't buy a CTX for SPL purposes. It's best played in a sealed box (0.8-1 cu.ft) with about 200-350W RMS. Have you auditioned the subs by Digital Designs or SMD? Ask Driven if they can arrange for an audition for DD and you can contact LBM for SMD.

[abhibh]

Originally Posted by fine69

The reason for a ported enclosure is to get more SPL but since you are recommending a sealed enclosure I'd appreciate the logic if shared, thanks.

Because AFAIK CTX perform better in sealed application and can take plenty of power and with the amount of power you have on tap (around 300W RMS) it can easily go loud in a 0.75-1 cuft. enclosure.

[fine69]

Originally Posted by thelord

The iD CTX can take that much power easily but to be honest, I wouldn't buy a CTX for SPL purposes. It's best played in a sealed box (0.8-1 cu.ft) with about 200-350W RMS. Have you auditioned the subs by Digital Designs or SMD? Ask Driven if they can arrange for an audition for DD and you can contact LBM for SMD.

I didn't want to request title changes again and again but I've actually decided that if the budget doesn't permit a true SPL system why not just have a loud setup which offers good quality sound.
As for not auditioning DDs, the 12" subs start at somewhere around 11k and were again out of the budget.

Originally Posted by abhibh

Because AFAIK CTX perform better in sealed application and can take plenty of power and with the amount of power you have on tap (around 300W RMS) it can easily go loud in a 0.75-1 cuft. enclosure.

I'll see if I would have the option of auditioning this sub in both sealed and ported enclosure. However, the installer has assured that even with a ported enclosure this sub wouldn't give any distorted/not likeable output at any volume. Ported only to increase the loudness of the setup.

The reason for narrowing down on the ID sub was that it was the only sub (as per the installer) which could really shake the car (at least from inside ) without compromising on the quality of the sound. Still, I'd audition the Bull/JBL/Infinity subs on D-day to ensure that I indeed chose the best (at 8k) of the lot.

From where I started (I don't know what I was thinking in my first post), the setup has finally started to make some sense (I hope you all would agree ). The SPL keeda (bug) really took its toll on me but I've ultimately emerged as a learned man.

EDIT: How do we know that the extra power that we'd be supplying to the sub beyond its rating (175w rms) wouldn't blow the sub. I mean what's the threshold here?

[Astleviz]

Originally Posted by fine69

Oh, so its rms + distance (length) of cable used. Here the rms is per amp or per channel? (I hope the question isn't too stupid)

Another query unresolved is the sub enclosure dimensions, anybody?

@Astleviz: How are ID and Infinity (ref only as Kappa is way over budget) subs when compared? both SPL & SQ-wise

For power cables, it's based on the total rms, in your case it will be 600w. So 4ga should be ideal.

As far as sub enclosure dimensions are concerned, every sub will have a recommended volume for sealed and ported boxes. Depending on which you decide, you can use the following link to calculate the exact dimensions of the enclosure-
Enclosure Volume Calculator (EVC)

I haven't auditioned ID subs but have heard good things about them, maybe other members can give their feedback. Infinity ref subs are quiet good, certainly better than the entry level jbls or bull audio, they can get quite loud while still sounding decent. A VFM sub, in my opinion. But then again, it all boils down to how it sounds to you.

[fine69]

For power cables, it's based on the total rms, in your case it will be 600w. So 4ga should be ideal.

Thanks

As far as sub enclosure dimensions are concerned, every sub will have a recommended volume for sealed and ported boxes. Depending on which you decide, you can use the following link to calculate the exact dimensions of the enclosure-
Enclosure Volume Calculator (EVC)

This is all greek to me, need to spend some time in order to comprehend what it all means.

I haven't auditioned ID subs but have heard good things about them, maybe other members can give their feedback. Infinity ref subs are quiet good, certainly better than the entry level jbls or bull audio, they can get quite loud while still sounding decent. A VFM sub, in my opinion. But then again, it all boils down to how it sounds to you.

This I shall do, audition a few other subs before finalizing the ID CTX.