Which AMP and Subwoofer for the Innova!!

Vivekphadnis · 14th January 2006, 13:18

Hi all. How are things here? Nice sub by the way.

navin · 15th January 2006, 23:27

there are a couple of ways to wire up a pair of drivers (in this case woofers). both woofers in phase and both woofers out of phase. These are called Bipole and Dipole. Each gives different bass character.

In addition to this if only one woofer is radiating to the outside world it is called Isobarik (meaning constant pressure).

Woofers can also mounted so that their magnets are phyically connected to each other this reduces some distortions (usually 2nd order) and reduces the stress on the woofer baffles. This is called Push-Push.

jkdas · 18th January 2006, 13:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by mclaren1885

the active sub that steeroid has is good actually.. The other day when he was in bangalore i was tweaking it and i found the bass to be quite good for a 8''.. However im not sure if its available here as of now .. If im not wrong that piece was picked up at dubai , isnt it steer uncle ..

I checked it out last day. Its damn small/compact. Couldnt 'play' with it .Maybe next time I will pump up to full vol and check it. ok Steer?

maybe I should get 2 of them for my car. and still I would ahev loooot if boot in my car.

Mad Monkey · 25th March 2006, 09:23

so whats the verdict on the ODsb 8000A ???

planning for a simple no nosense install in my vRS ...

costing me 12999 in mumbai from BHARAT .

is it worth it ??

jkdas · 25th March 2006, 09:29

Its a good sub if you dotn have space. Its enough if you want light bass.
It wont make you happy in a skoda as it would reside in your cars big boot.

For RS get a tube/box + amp config.

tube 6.5k/box 7.5k + 4k for amp approx ( cheapest)

and of course cables...3k

navin · 25th March 2006, 10:59

MM, I thought we covered this over the phone. The Blau 8000 has limited SPL capability but it does a reasonably smooth job. I would recommend a box sub and a good amp dumping atleast 100W RMS.

Something on the lines of the JBL 1200B mated to the Sony 502 or JBL 60.2.

A tube sub is needed only if you need to remove it often as it is lighter than a box sub.

Driven · 25th March 2006, 12:23

hi,,
innova is a very big car,, i would suggest you go in a minimum15" sub, i have tried it an innova,, it sounds great.. for your doors dynamat would do the job..
regards,
driven

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shan2nu

Our latest adition to the family....our Toyota Innova, has been installed with a Pioneer P6750 Mp3 player, stock Alpine speakers on the front doors and JBL - GTO506CS (165W) speakers on the back ones.

The problem i'm facing, is the rattling sound the door panels make when the "Bass" is increased. The absence of a subwoofer has converted the gap between the door and the door panel into a makeshift sound box, which really gets on my nerves when ever it begins to rattle.

What do you think would be the right AMP and Woofer combo for my setup?

Shan2nu

Digital Vampire · 25th March 2006, 12:29

What exactly is this passive radiator?
If my memory leads me right, its only one subwoofer driven by the amp and the other unit is not driven from the amplifier but moves passively.

Can the Guru's enlighten please

Sam Kapasi · 25th March 2006, 13:00

A passice radiator is basically a speaker cone that is not connected at all. If it is a passive radiator that is expressly built for that use, it will not have any electrical contacts, no magnet etc.
Think of it as a part of the cabinet that expands and contracts according to the air pressure inside the box.

Bass&Trouble · 25th March 2006, 16:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steeroid

I thought it was 1, too - till the Blau guy told me it has two. He has allegedly set up the one at the bottom (facing the floor) to 'reverse' on the Head Unit. I saw the setting (Sub 2 on the HU, Sub 1 is set to 'normal') but cant figure how this works. I plan to change the mounting to set it up horizontally, that way it would work front and back.

Here are the specs, though I dont see two speakers written there...the rest of it is greek and latin to me.

ODsb 8000A active sub main features:
Active subwoofer with passive radiator technology in extremely compact enclosure
The easiest way to more bass - amplifier and speaker in a box!
Twin 200mm drive units using passive radiator technology
Powerful 140Watt Class 'D' amplifier
Efficiency 4 ohm

Ek hi sub hai yaar!

The other is a passive radiator. Just a diaphragm, so that the device adds some output due to another cone vibrating. That don't have no electrical input dude. So your installer can't set up like, sub1 in normal phase and sub2 in reverse phase. The 6750 probably has 2 subwoofer setting menus, where the 1st sub menu, sub1, is the one where you can switch the sub on/ off, and set the phase, and the second menu, sub2, is to adjust the cutoff frequency and level. It's not 2 independently controllable subwoofer pre-outs or something.

14th January 2006, 13:18	#16
Vivekphadnis BHPian Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Bangalore Posts: 690 Thanked: 2 Times	Hi all. How are things here? Nice sub by the way.
	() Thanks

15th January 2006, 23:27	#17
navin Team-BHP Support Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Mumbai Posts: 25,195 Thanked: 9,287 Times	there are a couple of ways to wire up a pair of drivers (in this case woofers). both woofers in phase and both woofers out of phase. These are called Bipole and Dipole. Each gives different bass character. In addition to this if only one woofer is radiating to the outside world it is called Isobarik (meaning constant pressure). Woofers can also mounted so that their magnets are phyically connected to each other this reduces some distortions (usually 2nd order) and reduces the stress on the woofer baffles. This is called Push-Push.
	() Thanks

25th March 2006, 09:23	#19
Mad Monkey BHPian Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: mumbai Posts: 274 Thanked: 456 Times	so whats the verdict on the ODsb 8000A ??? planning for a simple no nosense install in my vRS ... costing me 12999 in mumbai from BHARAT . is it worth it ?? Last edited by Mad Monkey : 25th March 2006 at 09:27.
	() Thanks

25th March 2006, 09:29	#20
jkdas Senior - BHPian Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Thiruvananthapu Posts: 9,687 Thanked: 1,492 Times View My Garage	Its a good sub if you dotn have space. Its enough if you want light bass. It wont make you happy in a skoda as it would reside in your cars big boot. For RS get a tube/box + amp config. tube 6.5k/box 7.5k + 4k for amp approx ( cheapest) and of course cables...3k Last edited by jkdas : 25th March 2006 at 09:32.
	() Thanks

25th March 2006, 10:59	#21
navin Team-BHP Support Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Mumbai Posts: 25,195 Thanked: 9,287 Times	MM, I thought we covered this over the phone. The Blau 8000 has limited SPL capability but it does a reasonably smooth job. I would recommend a box sub and a good amp dumping atleast 100W RMS. Something on the lines of the JBL 1200B mated to the Sony 502 or JBL 60.2. A tube sub is needed only if you need to remove it often as it is lighter than a box sub.
	() Thanks

25th March 2006, 12:29	#23
Digital Vampire BHPian Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Utopia! Posts: 595 Thanked: 105 Times	What exactly is this passive radiator? If my memory leads me right, its only one subwoofer driven by the amp and the other unit is not driven from the amplifier but moves passively. Can the Guru's enlighten please
	() Thanks

25th March 2006, 13:00	#24
Sam Kapasi Distinguished - BHPian Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Mumbai (but wat Posts: 6,997 Thanked: 2,378 Times View My Garage	A passice radiator is basically a speaker cone that is not connected at all. If it is a passive radiator that is expressly built for that use, it will not have any electrical contacts, no magnet etc. Think of it as a part of the cabinet that expands and contracts according to the air pressure inside the box.
	() Thanks