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-   -   DIY: Hardwiring your Dashcam (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-do-yourself/167284-diy-hardwiring-your-dashcam-12.html)

Hii,thanks for the info, though, I have an update on this. So, last week i took down my Dashcam. Used a glass cleaner dabbed cloth and thoroughly cleaned the contacts on either end including on the dash cam and the cable. Voila! Has been working for over a week now clap:
Suggest doing this at least once in 6M to ensure connectivity and longevity of the Dashcam/ cable stupid:

I had almost ordered a set of fuse taps and converter and that's when I realized my vehicle had a USB port in the rear row. I decided to run the cable along the A pillar all the way to the door sill and under the seat. I had to use an extender as the cable that came along with the dash cam did not have sufficient length to reach the port ; should replace the extender with a black one so that it's not very prominent.

I believe this solution would work best for folks who do not use the USB port often (if available; else cigarette lighter adapter?) in the mid row and it also conceals the wiring to a large extent.

Please pardon the shots in low light.

I just finished hard wiring a ddpai Z40 as a DIY project.

Had a few hiccups along the way. What actually concerns me though is that I seem to have lost one of the mini fuses (used in Honda City 3rd gen) that I need to for the fuse tap for parking monitoring.

I eventually used the S fuse that was part of the hardwiring kit. Just wanted to know from members here if this is ok.

The fuse went in fine and the parking mode for the dashcam works. Can i keep it ...or do I have to hunt for a mini fuse now?

I am not sure of the fuse form factors (mini, s type etc...this was on the label on the hardwiring kit) so I am attaching a pic of the fuse tap (which is the same fuse type I actually need to use) and the fuse I was forced to use.

I just did these DIY fuse taps on my car's micro2 blade fuses. I am using one for the dashcam and the other for my courtesy honk implementation.



Resorted to DIY since I couldn't get a compatible fuse tap from the local shops and Amazon prices for fuse tap hovers in the range of INR 800!

I used a hot air gun to make the top portion of the plastic a bit soft, before cutting it out to expose one of the terminals. A wire is soldered to this exposed part and the fuse is reinserted.

The downside of this technique is that if the fuse blows, you will have to redo this on the replacement fuse.

Add one more,
With a fuse tap exisiting circuit is not disturbed. Additional output is drawn with an additional fuse. But here the additional load is taken by the same fuse. When the fuse fails, the base function and tapped function both fails.

Missed another one.

Wring orientation may land in hazardous outcome



Case 1 :
In --> Fuse 1 --> Out 1 & 2

Case 2
In --> Fuse 1 --> Out 1
In --> Out 2 :Shockked:

When we use a fuse tap, there is no such risk even when the orientation is wrong

Case 3
In --> Fuse 1 --> Out 1
In --> Fuse 2 --> Out 2

Case 4
In --> Fuse 1 --> Out 1 (not disturbed)
In --> Fuse 1 --> Fuse 2 --> Out 2 (Both fuses act in series)

Kindly order the fuse tap from below link and get it replaced ASAP.
https://www.nexdigitron.com/collecti...icro2-set-of-2

Thank you. I couldn't find a micro2 fuse tap on Amazon at reasonable prices! :thumbs up
Nexdigitron is a shopping portal that deserves to be noticed more. I purchased a CPL for my dashcam earlier on this site. The price was very reasonable compared to Amazon.

Thanks, but I had already considered the above point. I am at #1 now, will go to #3 later.

Hi,

Quick query, does the 12V socket remain ON in the Rapid even when the ignition is turned off? Getting mixed responses from Skoda SAs.

Did you unplug the dashcam each time you turned the car off.

Thanks in advance

Hi,
The 12V socket in Skoda Rapid does not remain ON after ignition key is removed. It is ON until the key is in ACC position, even after the engine is turned off.