During a scheduled service, I came to know about blown up condenser fan motor, due to which condenser fan was not moving at all.
HASS quoted 10000/- INR for replacement, which is definitely is not a small amount. So I asked them to leave it as it is and decided to diagnose issue myself.
Effect of blown up fan motor
If your radiator fan motor is blown, immediate replacement is essential, because radiator fan plays major role in cooling.
If condenser fan motor is blown, then you can live with it for some time, unless you are not driving frequently in bumper-to-bumper traffic. This motor plays role in additional cooling in start-stop traffic when your car is moving with very low speed. I just kept strict watch on engine temp needle until motor issue fix.
Testing fan motor
First I tried to diagnose if indeed fan motor is kaput or if there is any issue with fuse or relay. On inspection found fuse to be ok.
Then used following procedure to test the fan motor directly. Easiest way is to check resistance/connectivity between both terminals of fan motor. First of all remove the power connectors of fan motor (of radiator/condenser, whichever you want to test)-
Set your multi-meter to measure resistance and connect both multi-meter probes to both fan connector terminals. If fan motor is good, then you should get few ohms reading in multi-meter (i.e. some connectivity across motor), and if motor is gone then it should not show any reading at all (i.e. circuit break across motor).
Following is the positive test result of my cars radiator fan motor, just to show you for reference-
But my condenser fan motor test showed no reading at all, which is best sign of kaput motor.
If you don't have a multi-meter, then you can simply connect both connectors of fan motor connector to +ve and -ve terminal of battery, directly, using some spare cable with clamps (take care to not short cables). No need to take care of battery terminal polarity, if you connect to opposite terminals of battery fan will just in opposite direction. Fan should run properly after direct connection to battery, if not then motor has gone bad and it's time for replacement.
Replacing fan motor
First remove the black front grill cover on top of the radiator. You simply need to remove 5 plastic clips on this plastic cover and 2 more clips at the left and right side. After removing clips, simply pull out this plastic cover.
After removing front grill cover-
Remove the fan motor connector-
To remove condenser fan shroud, you simply need to remove 2 bolts on top of the fan shroud assembly, refer following diagram for finding location of bolts-
After this gently pull out fan shroud assembly, it might not come out very easily due to radiator/condenser bracket mount on top, take care to not damage any alluminium AC lines while taking out fan shroud assembly.
Removed fan shroud-
Remove 3 small screws which you can see in in centre plastic fan in above image. After this you will be able to separate out plastic fan part.
Then remove 3 screws which secure the protective metal plate on back of assembly-
After removing protective metal plate, remove 3 screws holding the motor. Following is the removed fan motor which needs replacement. I did cut the wire between motor and the connector. Later new motors wire was soldered together + tape insulation.
Local auto-spare part quoted 3000/- INR for new motor (Honda service center quoted me 10k for same!!), but he did not have it readily available in stock. Since I was planning for upcoming trips, and since car was also opened up, I decided to go with alternate temporary way and source used fan motor from local car junk yard. Took out my motor-bike, went to Nana-peth area which is famous for used car parts. Got a used original motor from a wrecked car parts.
One of the junk yard store-
Used Denso motor bought-
Refit the motor and other parts in reverse order as explained above. and refit shroud assembly and top black plastic cover.
I was not expecting much from this used motor, and my original plan was to use this motor for couple of weeks and then replace it with new aftermarket motor. But I found it running strong without any niggle for many weeks. So eventually thought of replacing it only when it dies. Now it's been more than 3 years post replacement, and it's still running healthy.
(Note that this is almost 3 years old DIY) Total cost involved:
Used condenser motor: 400/-
Insulation tape: 10/-
Soldering gun and related material: n.a. (already had it available)
Some elbow grease