A Step-by-step DiY procedure for Remote Boot Release Installation on Maruti Alto
Did a Remote Boot release DiY successfully recently on my June 2009 Alto LXi. The information in this thread was immensely helpful. Thought of consolidating the experiences of various enthusiasts in one place and presenting a fairly professional DiY procedure so that anyone can implement it in an efficient manner. And you don’t have to cut the carpet or damage any part of the car. The approximate time required for completing the job is 2 hours ( I had to spend another 30 minutes to file off the burrs in the lever of back door latch since the movement was not smooth).
Parts required:
Essential (Picture-A):
Sl.No. Part No. Name Qty Price Rs.
1. 82650 M79 G00 Striker, Back door Latch 1 No. 34.95
2. 83310 M76 G50 Lever, Fuel Lid Opener 1 No. 47.20
3. 83350 M79 G20 Cable, Back door opener 1 No.
98.92
Total
181.07
Good to have:
1. 75411 M76 G00 Clamp, Cable 3 Nos
2. 09137 (8 x 18) Screw 2 Nos. (spare in case of damage to the screws while removing)
3. 09409 M07308 Clip (Gray) 3 Nos. ”
Sources in Bangalore:
NEMA Auto Spares, No. 8 Hosur Bypass Road, Vijinapura, Dooravaninagar- Near Ramamurthynagar Police Station. Their main office is on Magadi Road
Essarr Automotives, No. 19/1-2, Siddiah Road, Bangalore – 560002, Opposite Urvashi Theatre.
Tools required:
See Picture B. Few spares are also shown. As many have expressed, removing the two screws holding the striker is the most difficult part. If you have a 1/4 ” or 6.5 mm socket with rachet handle, you can buy a Phillips screw driver bit and use it for removing the screws. Otherwise, take help from a garage.
Preparatory work: The Photograph numbers correspond to the steps as applicable.
- Remove the floor mats near Driver’s seat and passenger’s seat behind.
- Remove two star screws from the ‘Box Floor Console - Front’ and loosen (but not remove) the cover.
- Remove one number star screw from the ‘Box Floor Console – Rear’ and loosen (but not remove) the cover to facilitate removal of driver’s seat.
- Unscrew the 4 bolts with a 14 mm or 9/16” socket and remove the driver’s seat.
- Remove the ‘Trim Dash RH’ by prising out two gray clips.
- Remove the ‘Scuff Side Sill – Front’ on driver’s side by carefully lifting with a screwdriver as otherwise, the plastic prongs may break.
- Remove the clip holding the carpet to the sill on the right of driver’s seat.
- Remove the clip of the electrical harness to the right of the driver’s seat.
- Remove the plastic cap holding the carpet to the right of the accelerator pedal by pulling the knob.
- Remove the black plastic cover below the steering column by prising it out with a screwdriver.
- With above actions, the carpet in the driver’s bay can be lifted from the right front corner. Carefully lift the carpet pushing the ‘Lever fuel lid opener’ thru the cutout in the carpet.
- Now, the fuel lid opener lever attachment can be clearly seen along with its cable going to the rear bay through a cutout in the hump separating the front and rear bays.
- Remove the rear passenger seat by pulling up the lever on LH and RH side.
- Remove the ‘Scuff Side Sill – Rear’ on the right side by prising out three plastic clamps.
- Remove the clip holding the carpet at the middle of the rear seat pan.
- Lift the carpet in the RH rear bay. The cable of the fuel lid opener can be seen going towards the left of the car.
- Remove clip holding the felt trim behind the rear seat on RH side and separate from the chassis by opening the Velcro at two places.
- Remove the tail end member trim by prising out 4 clips on top and 2 clips in front of the trim.
- Mark the position of the hook on the hood latch so that alignment will be easier later.
- Remove the ‘Striker, Back Door Latch’ by removing the two countersunk Phillips screws (the toughest part )
The removed interior parts are shown in the Picture C.
Installation:
21. Remove the fuel tank opening lever by removing one no. star screw.
22. Disconnect the cable from the lever.
23. Connect the fuel lid cable to the new twin lever at the corresponding lever and press the grooved plastic end of the outer sheath into the appropriate slot.
24. Repeat the above with the hood release cable. Ensure that the cylindrical end of the cable is connected to the lever.
25. Pass the rear hood cable thru the cutout along the side of the fuel lid cable and bring it to the rear passenger bay.
26. Pass the hood release cable around the rear seat.
27. Route the cable to the boot around the rear right corner.
28. Take out the cable through the tail end member cutout. (The old striker is still seen in this photograph since I removed it after routing the cable).
29. Connect the composite lever to the car frame ensuring that the projection on the lever base fits into the rectangular slot on the body and tighten the star screw.
30. Connect the ball end of the cable to the lever on the hood latch and press the grooved plastic outer sleeve into the slot provided.
31. Install the hood latch using the two countersunk screws. The release lever may have to be pressed against the spring force to facilitate the insertion of the latch into the cutout on the frame. The hood release cable can be left free during these operations.
32. Align the hook against the previously made mark and tighten the screws.
33. Check for proper locking of the rear hatch and open with the key initially. Adjust position of the latch for smooth closing and opening.
34. Once this is ensured, check opening of the hood with the operation of the hatch opener lever. Normally, it should work.
35. Route neatly and tie down the rear door opener cable at intervals to the electrical harness using ty-wraps.
36. If 75411 M76 G00 Clamps are available, the cable can be routed like the fuel lid cable shown in pic.
37. Install back the other removed items in the reverse order.
It can be seen that there is no need to cut the carpet.