[carboy]

Is there any thumb rule to figure out what capacity water heater I need? i.e. 10 litres, 15, 25 etc? And which brand is a good quality budget heater?

[Lalvaz]

Originally Posted by carboy

Is there any thumb rule to figure out what capacity water heater I need? i.e. 10 litres, 15, 25 etc? And which brand is a good quality budget heater?

Really depends on the duration of your bath. If you prefer long luxurious hot baths go for the 25 litre storage heater. Good reliable brands are Havells, Crompton Greaves, Racold & Ao Smith. I prefer Racold. Make sure you get a good 15 ampere or higher capacity switch.

[sgiitk]

I have two 35Litre and one 50 litre units in my house. As it stands we had plumbing done so that each feels two rooms. 35litre, one feeds the upstairs kitchen and the guest bath, the second childrens and family lounge toilets. the 50 litre feeds the main bathroom and main kitchens. Personally, I feel that 35 litre is optimal, since two people can shower without waiting for the water to heat between the showers.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by carboy

Is there any thumb rule to figure out what capacity water heater I need? i.e. 10 litres, 15, 25 etc? And which brand is a good quality budget heater?

Yes there is.

T = Time you need the water for in minutes
R = Rate at which you need the water for Liter/min
D = difference (or rather ratio) between the Geyser and bathing temperature in %

Now, normal values for us are
T = 10
R = 5
D = 0.37 (95 degrees geyser, 35 degrees bath)

So capacity = TxRxD = 18.5, say 20L or 25L capacity.

[devil_klm]

Hi all, I need some advice on 2 things
1) I would like to now how to connect an instant water heater. Now my apartments work is going on. I have requested them to get an extra inlet valve where they are giving cold water inlet. One I will connect to geyser and cold one to sink mixers cold inlet. Hot water outlet from geyser will be connected to hot water inlet of mixer. My plan is to get 1 ltr geyser. It will be fixed below the sink. Doubt is will there by any problem of lower pressure. Because the water from geyser should flow upwards. this will be the first floor of a G+4 apartment.
2) I am planning for a concealed wiring on living room to have home theater rear speaker wires covered. For this what type of electrical box I need to purchase? My plan is to pass 2 wires from receiver from one side( where receiver is ) to the other side where my rear speakers come and not individual points.

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by devil_klm

2) I am planning for a concealed wiring on living room to have home theater rear speaker wires covered. For this what type of electrical box I need to purchase? My plan is to pass 2 wires from receiver from one side( where receiver is ) to the other side where my rear speakers come and not individual points.

Have a look at catalogs of brands such as Crabtree, MK, LeGrand, ABB etc. All of them have great options for Home theater wiring - consider HDMI as one of the sockets too if you expand to a projector later on.
Have a look at this sample from MK. There are integrated ones too.

[Guite]

Originally Posted by devil_klm

Hi all, I need some advice on 2 things
1) I would like to now how to connect an instant water heater. Now my apartments work is going on. I have requested them to get an extra inlet valve where they are giving cold water inlet.

Water pressure will not be a problem, I have just tested on my instant heater. However please read user manual first. Most manufacturers these days put up user manual on their website. Check out whether they caution against the kind of placement you have in mind.

2) I am planning for a concealed wiring on living room to have home theater rear speaker wires covered. For this what type of electrical box I need to purchase?

Wall on the box will be standard 2 gang square GI box. Cover plate option is tricky since there are no socket for audio cable application in the standard catalogue of switches manufacturers. You can put a 1 module cover plate with a blank cover, cut a neat hole through the blank cover and have the speaker cable come out. This way you will have a single piece of cable from receiver to speaker, no joint in between, no signal degradation.

You may also like to post your query in the home theatre thread, where someone would have already done similar installation.

[Guite]

One potential issue about the instant water heater installation is wrt the two control points. First is the angle stop cock on the wall and second is the sink mixer. Because the tap on wall is below counter you will probably leave it always open (ON). This means for so long as the mixer is shut, immense water pressure will act on the water heater body from inside.

Whether the appliance is designed to handle constant water pressure I don't know. If anyone has installed under similar condition can comment. In the installation in our house the outlet from the water heater is just a pipe, no other attachment. Water comes out when wall tap is opened.

[devil_klm]

Thanks a lot Guite and diyguy.
My only concern was upward flow of water from heater to mixer. Since it is working fine for you it should not be an issue. Heater body should be made to handle the pressure i guess and more over it is 1-3 Liter capacity tanks. so pressure in the tank will be not that high. What is the capacity of yours?
I am planing for AO Smith EWS 1 Liter heater.

About wiring HT setup, i will check at nearby shops today. Thanks for the brand names mate

[sgiitk]

Do not worry about the level. My 50l geyser is in the ground floor kitchen, and also feeds the master bathroom (first floor). I first cottoned on to this when in my IITK flat (I had the first floor of a two level house), we discovered the geyser point was in the ground floor kitchen. This was an original (American occupied) house so obviously they had no issues. Having only the upper floor I had to blank it off. This is what inspired me too this in my own house, and despite all conventional wisdom I have faced no problems in my house. We have been here since 2001!

[Guite]

Originally Posted by devil_klm

Heater body should be made to handle the pressure i guess and more over it is 1-3 Liter capacity tanks. so pressure in the tank will be not that high. What is the capacity of yours?
I am planing for AO Smith EWS 1 Liter heater.

Water pressure inside is not a property of capacity but rather a property of the water head. This is the height difference between the appliance and the overhead water tank.

Mine is a Crompton Greaves 1 litre. The label on the side says:
Water head: 18 metres
Type: open outlet

[Thad E Ginathom]

the height difference between the appliance and the overhead water tank.

Minus the height difference from the appliance to the upper-floor outlet. Or, simply, the pressure at that upper-floor outlet will be determined by the height from the outlet to the overhead water tank! Less a bit for friction in the pipe.

If your water heater is "open outlet" type, then it must not feed a tap. The tap will be on the inlet side.

[Chetan_Rao]

Didn't see a separate home audio thread (just the home theatre one), so posting this query here. Mods please move as appropriate.

I need recommendations for a portable boom box. Our requirement is music playback that can be easily moved between rooms, and something we can carry on day outings/picnics if needed. Bluetooth playback capability would be desirable. No fixed budget but wouldn't want to spend a bomb.

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by Chetan_Rao

I need recommendations for a portable boom box. Our requirement is music playback that can be easily moved between rooms, and something we can carry on day outings/picnics if needed. Bluetooth playback capability would be desirable. No fixed budget but wouldn't want to spend a bomb.

Look at the Bose Soundlink blue tooth speakers. I picked up one for my father in law from the US and the sound effect is mind blowing. Cost me 300$ a couple of years back. It is not a boom box and you will need a phone or an iPod device to play music from. The portability it offers a in the form of size and battery backup as well as its sound quality blows anything else away at least, from what I've been exposed to.

[SchumiFan]

Originally Posted by Chetan_Rao

I need recommendations for a portable boom box. Our requirement is music playback that can be easily moved between rooms, and something we can carry on day outings/picnics if needed. Bluetooth playback capability would be desirable. No fixed budget but wouldn't want to spend a bomb.

Originally Posted by diyguy

Look at the Bose Soundlink blue tooth speakers. I picked up one for my father in law from the US and the sound effect is mind blowing. Cost me 300$ a couple of years back.
The portability it offers a in the form of size and battery backup as well as its sound quality blows anything else away at least, from what I've been exposed to.

I second diyguy. Only I would suggest the SoundLink Mini. IMO it has better acoustics than the bigger sibling and cost is also favorable. It is very small in footprint (but quite heavy) and carries decent battery back up as well.

One fault with it though is, it cannot be charged by Micro-USB even though there is one present in it.