[saket77]

So years after robust and reliable service, my IFB front load washer seems to now have issues with spin cycle and I suspect that it’s the motor.
Will call the service guy and take his advice. Any idea of the cost of a new motor; if the same is still supplied by IFB? The exact model is IFB executive plus. I’d prefer to get this repaired. Getting a new machine would be my last option.

Regards,
Saket

[vsrivatsa]

Need a recommendation on Lock for Main Door as the current one seems to be having issues.

Most people I asked recommended Godrej and said it comes with Free Installation. Quick search on Amazon shows some Twin-Bolt and Tri-Bolt models.

Twin Bolt:
https://www.amazon.in/Godrej-Ultra-T...dp/B00IMWU8K0/

TriBolt:
https://www.amazon.in/Godrej-Tribolt...dp/B01L01Q8UI/

I am not aware as to what else to look for when deciding on a Door Lock...please advise...

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by vsrivatsa

Most people I asked recommended Godrej and said it comes with Free Installation.

Yes this is very handy that they do the free installation within city limits. I have installed about 6-7 locks over the past ten years of moving home thrice. I usually get a latch with deadbolt like this https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00IMWU8X2/..._x0pDDbXM630PH
It autolocks when you close the door. You need to check the door if you have sufficient space to install the lock considering there may be other older locks already in place. My current home has a manual sliding bolt above the place where this latch could be installed and it was a tight squeeze. Buying from Amazon is wise as you can return it if it doesn't fit. I purchased my last such latch from the hardware market and the rate I paid was same as what I see in the link now.
Then there is a situation of inside opening, outside opening and left side or right side. Now with the modern locks, the lock can be rotated and so can the mechanism within to suit the most common possibilities.
One final learning for me was that if you had an older godrej latch and want to install a newer one, you would need an adapter. You can buy this from the installer for about 450rs or from the market for about 200 or so. This is because the older latches needed a larger hole or cut in the door than the newer ones.

[auto-one]

Originally Posted by BaCkSeAtDrIVeR

How durable and safe are the glass top cooktops / hobs?

Glass top cook tops are difficult to maintain and are prone to cracks at the slightest misuse. I was in the same dilemma and have decided to go for a stainless steel one. Yes, the choices are limited, but safety and durability are of prime importance to me. I haven't yet finalized on any brand.

Originally Posted by Aravindpn

Anybody here who bought the new Voltas Beko refrigerator?

I have put up a review of my 250L Voltas Beko refrigerator. Hope it helps. Here is the link :

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/gadge...ml#post4578652 (The Home Appliance thread)

[HappyWheels]

Originally Posted by auto-one

Glass top cook tops are difficult to maintain and are prone to cracks at the slightest misuse. I was in the same dilemma and have decided to go for a stainless steel one. Yes, the choices are limited, but safety and durability are of prime importance to me. I haven't yet finalized on any brand.

Have been using one for 3 years now and have zero issues. Find it better than stainless steel as it is very easier to clean.

You have to be careful when moving them, though. Weighs much heavier than they look!

[Aravindpn]

Originally Posted by auto-one

I have put up a review of my 250L Voltas Beko refrigerator . Hope it helps. Here is the link :

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/gadge...ml#post4578652 (The Home Appliance thread)

Thanks!

However, I went along with the crowd and bought an LG 335 litre.

Good to know that Voltas Beko is serving you well.

[condor]

Our year old LG double door showed reduced cooling in the lower section. Freezer was fine. Called the service guy, and he poured boiling water in the freezer compartment on the cooling coils and below it to unblock the cool-air passage linking the freezer and refrigerator compartments.


.. I thought basics were not to apply drastic change in temperature like that.

[Sebring]

Looks like the new thing to do; pour hot water. Three days back, Our Panasonic was making a loud buzzing sound, so the guy put hot water on the freezer and that set things right. Does seem like 'not the right approach', I agree. Charged 500 for the same. Next time I'll do it myself as this weather calls for it, I guess.

Originally Posted by condor

Our year old LG double door showed reduced cooling in the lower section. Freezer was fine. Called the service guy, and he poured boiling water in the freezer compartment on the cooling coils and below it to unblock the cool-air passage linking the freezer and refrigerator compartments.

[condor]

Originally Posted by Sebring

Looks like the new thing to do; .. Next time I'll do it myself as this weather calls for it, I guess.

What i am unable to comprehend is - we have all used refrigerators for a long time. But never faced such issues. Wonder what's up with these new age 4* rated appliances ?

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by condor

What i am unable to comprehend is - we have all used refrigerators for a long time. But never faced such issues. Wonder what's up with these new age 4* rated appliances ?

It has nothing to do with the star rating. All frost free refrigerators suffer clogging at one time or other. 'Frost free' refers to forced air circulation using a fan. In the past, they used a shaded pole motor for the fan which was robust and even when blocked didn't bring the roof down. To save energy, these days they are using Brushless DC motor for the fan. They take little to upset them resulting in ice build up.

Don't use all available space in your refrigerator. It needs air to circulate. Leave the vents free of clutter. Close the door tight. All these will help to keep the frost free trouble free.

[condor]

Originally Posted by Prowler

It has nothing to do with the star rating. All frost free refrigerators suffer clogging at one time or other. 'Frost free' refers to forced air circulation using a fan. In the past, they used a shaded pole motor for the fan which was robust and even when blocked didn't bring the roof down. To save energy, these days they are using Brushless DC motor for the fan. They take little to upset them resulting in ice build up.

Don't use all available space in your refrigerator. It needs air to circulate. Leave the vents free of clutter. Close the door tight. All these will help to keep the frost free trouble free.

I am aware that star rating is for energy consumption. What I was saying - with all these advanced designs, such clogging should have been taken care of. You spend upwards of 50k for their better units, and yet a basic problem like this happens.

Regarding the vents - this particular vent that takes cool air from freezer to refrigerator section is out of sight - and definitely out of reach. It is behind the rear "wall" of the freezer section.

The problem was not the motor or fan, but the passage getting clogged. The refrigerator/freezers were at their "warmest" setting.

Even if the rear vents for lower ref section was blocked, there are large vents near the doors.

If the door is not shut properly, then the fridge will beep till it is closed. It is possible to leave the door little ajar, but that would actually reduce the buildup.

[turbospooler]

Originally Posted by saket77

So years after robust and reliable service, my IFB front load washer seems to now have issues with spin cycle and I suspect that it’s the motor.
Will call the service guy and take his advice. Any idea of the cost of a new motor; if the same is still supplied by IFB? The exact model is IFB executive plus. I’d prefer to get this repaired. Getting a new machine would be my last option.

Regards,
Saket

IFB uses the same motors in all its models (except BLDC of-course, which is used in their top-of-the line range) and I think they will be able to replace the same.

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by condor

The problem was not the motor or fan, but the passage getting clogged. The refrigerator/freezers were at their "warmest" setting.

Even if the rear vents for lower ref section was blocked, there are large vents near the doors.

If the door is not shut properly, then the fridge will beep till it is closed. It is possible to leave the door little ajar, but that would actually reduce the buildup.

Ice build up depends on the ambient moisture to a large extent. If the door is not fully closed air will leak inside resulting in ice build up. The door ajar sensor (mostly a switch) will be triggered only when the door is open by at least an inch.
The channels for the air are like links in a chain - it gets blocked where there is a bend or it narrows.

[condor]

Originally Posted by Prowler

Ice build up depends on the ambient moisture to a large extent. If the door is not fully closed air will leak inside resulting in ice build up. The door ajar sensor (mostly a switch) will be triggered only when the door is open by at least an inch.

What makes you think that the unit has not been used in the way it should be ? About moisture, the main source inside the freezer is water placed for ice. We dont use ice, and even if we did - moisture is a factor only till the ice is formed.

[saket77]

Originally Posted by turbospooler

IFB uses the same motors in all its models (except BLDC of-course, which is used in their top-of-the line range) and I think they will be able to replace the same.

Thanks! The service guy visited today and checked the machine and as expected, it is the motor. Failure in the high speed spin cycle and the distinct ‘krrrr’ sound while spinning was the giveaway. After opening the back cover, one could see blue sparks in the motor while high speed spin. He checked with his stock and its not in ready stock. The motor needs to be ordered as the machine was the first iteration of IFB Bosch. Should be available by the weekend. Will update the costs which is expected to be around 5K.

Regards.