[typeOnegative]

Originally Posted by ExtremeTorque

When i zoom to 20x, i dont cant spot the craters all i see is a white blob. Am i doing something wrong? I need to use atleast a little part of the digital zoom (39x) to catch the details of the moon. Yes, there is a little bit of shake as i didnt use a tripod.

Use manual focus. Basically that is what Tanveer is telling you. Getting the details is all in the post processing.

[msvg]

hi all
i am planning to buy Sony Cyber-shot DSC-W310 Digital Camera - 12.1 Megapixel
please advice,looking for a camera for point and shoot. Mostly for travel purpose and shoot some good snaps.

thanks
MSVG

[Xinger]

Hi,

I have a problem with my Panasonic Lumix LZ7 camera in that all photographs taken lately have a circular smudgy area in the center. I've tried cleaning up the lens from the outside, but to no avail.

So is it safe to open up the camera and clean up the lens from the inside? Or any other way to solve the problem?

Thanx.

[typeOnegative]

@msvg: The camera you have chosen should be fine for your needs. Don't think too much, read some online reviews and learn how to exploit your camera to its limits.

Xinger - your problem seems to be that of fungus on the sensor (or if you are lucky on the inside of the lens). Please take it to an authorized service center. Do not attempt opening it.

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by typeOnegative

Use manual focus. Basically that is what Tanveer is telling you. Getting the details is all in the post processing.

Nope, do not use manual focus. Moon is bright enough for contrast detect focus. All I said was to use manual exposure

[typeOnegative]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Nope, do not use manual focus. Moon is bright enough for contrast detect focus. All I said was to use manual exposure

Hmm. Fair enough. Actually I prefer the manual focus for this along with manual exposure as the software typically screws up. I think manual focus, 100/80 ISO plus 15secs should do the trick.

But I do not know if Panasonics allow manual focus ... My bad.

EDIT: All my experience as per the HS10.

[tsk1979]

Panasonic cams actually have a very good implementation of manual focus. I use it for my "macro" shots!
It truly works and is one of the best implementations of manual focus I have seen!

[typeOnegative]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Panasonic cams actually have a very good implementation of manual focus. I use it for my "macro" shots!
It truly works and is one of the best implementations of manual focus I have seen!

How do you manually focus on a Panny? On the HS10 I have a focus ring near the end of the lens and closer to the body. This ring is rotated to get the desired clarity. From what I understand, super zooms do not have a true manual focus as the focusing, though hand driven is still electronic in the end. Very unlike that on an SLR/DSLR lens.

Sorry I am asking too many questions, but it does not hurt to know. Never got to see the Panny while buying my camera. The Nikon P100 does not have a manual focus, though it does have an M mode, AFAIK.

[typeOnegative]

@tsk1979, I found out. It is with the joystick isn't it? Is this really the best implementation of Manual focus? Maybe the same on the Nikon P100 then. Though I have never tried this method, I find it a bit cumbersome to operate. Anyway, case closed. Let's wait for ExtremeTorques attempt.

[tsk1979]

Yes, its with the Joystick.
Why I say its among the best is because you can very slowly focus near or far.
there is a bar on the right which has a yellow zone which accurately defines your DOF in meters
So you can have 2m-infinity marking or 2m-4m when you have zoomed in.
Or 10m-infinity and so on.
Moreover, the center of the image is zoomed in and its called MF assist.
Due to full 100% view of focus point area, you can accurately determine whether your subject is in focus or not.

[typeOnegative]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Yes, its with the Joystick.
Why I say its among the best is because you can very slowly focus near or far.
there is a bar on the right which has a yellow zone which accurately defines your DOF in meters
So you can have 2m-infinity marking or 2m-4m when you have zoomed in.
Or 10m-infinity and so on.
Moreover, the center of the image is zoomed in and its called MF assist.
Due to full 100% view of focus point area, you can accurately determine whether your subject is in focus or not.

It is more or less the same on the HS10. Only that instead of a joystick with (potentially) limited range of travel, you have a focusing ring that like on an SLR. Have not paid attention to the yellow bar before (did not read the manual fully, ), but the HS10 also the central part of the viewfinder go extra transparent with 100% view and you adjust taking your cue from there.

Where the Manual Focus has not worked too well is when I am on Extended Zoom and subject is not so far away. In what ways is it different for Canons and Nikons?

[tsk1979]

No issues with limited range of travel. As long as joystick is in up position, focus keeps moving father away and vice a versa.
Even at full EZ zoom in Panasonic, if MF assist is enabled, it magnifies the center area of the pic so that you clearly see whether your subject is in focus

[typeOnegative]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

No issues with limited range of travel. As long as joystick is in up position, focus keeps moving father away and vice a versa.
Even at full EZ zoom in Panasonic, if MF assist is enabled, it magnifies the center area of the pic so that you clearly see whether your subject is in focus

Gotcha! That is neat.

In the HS10, at full zoom, it is a bit difficult to get the correct focus - you have to keep turning the ring for ages. Helps to correct it at 28X, then move to 30X. This is for relatively closer objects. For really far off stuff, there is no issue.

[para_7k]

Originally Posted by typeOnegative

Gotcha! That is neat.

In the HS10, at full zoom, it is a bit difficult to get the correct focus - you have to keep turning the ring for ages. Helps to correct it at 28X, then move to 30X. This is for relatively closer objects. For really far off stuff, there is no issue.

I'm Surprised that you can do manual focus at 28x!

I find it too difficult with the amount of shake that occurs and also with the LCD/EVF. It does not equal the conveniece of Optical View finders.

Anyway, MF at the wide end is a breeze and of late, I have been using it for portraits on my HS10 and it gives me a better control of DOF than in the AF modes

[typeOnegative]

Originally Posted by para_7k

I'm Surprised that you can do manual focus at 28x!

Ahh. Here are the steps I follow:

1. Place camera on stable surface
2. Switch to LCD (I almost exclusively use the EVF)
3. Extend zoom fully
4. Focus
5. Set timer
6. Click

Obviously, this works best with still objects.