[R2D2]

Originally Posted by deep_bang

What I did was to buy this clamp meter, which comes with a digital display. We have 2 inverters in our house and so planning to buy one more as a permanantly fixed meter. This would be run off a small 9v battery. I could run it off the UPS battery, but just choosing to use a simple 9v because it avoids the possibility of something bad happenning on this device causing a short circuit like thing.

Does the digital display show Amps and Volts? Then you are set. Otherwise just buy one of those LED voltmeter displays and have them installed along with the ammeters. BTW where did you get this meter from? I may be interested in buying one too. It'll save me the hassle of pulling out my DVM or clamp meters every time I want to check on the inverter and batteries.

[manim]

Got myself one of this, after doing some research on the internet:
"HTC Instrument PM-03 Energy Meter, Energy Metering, Power Guard, Monitor, Kill A Watt".
https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My APC-BI850SINE 850va inverter is 6.5 years old and continues to do its job perfectly well.
The paired Exide-IT500 is now 4.3 years old and also continues to do its job well.

I was thinking of upgrading to a Luminous-Cruze 2 Kva, mainly to power my fridge. The meter works great and throws some unexpected and interesting results!

Found that my LG Inverter-fridge does not have a starting/surge, rather it slowly works itself up to only about 90 watt late nights when the door is never opened. In day-time it goes up to about 165 watts. Once it showed 232 watts, I think it must have been the defrost-cycle.

Apart from showing Watt, it shows the Power-factor, Volts and Amps.
It also shows the KwH accumulated over time. The fridge consumed 2.44 units over a 24 hour period.

Presently it is connected to the inverter's output.
I am having fun measuring various gadgets around my house!

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by manim

Got myself one of this, after doing some research on the internet

I too had one of these and discovered the gadget doesn't give accurate W/A/PF readings with inductive loads like a fridge. I too have an inverter model. The meter was returned to the seller.

I should try your particular model although I suspect these Chinese meters are have the exact same circuit inside and simply branded differently.

[Aroy]

How does this work? I see a power input, but cannot fathom where that is connected.

[manim]

Originally Posted by Aroy

How does this work? I see a power input, but cannot fathom where that is connected.

Mains-input -> Inverter -> Belkin-3-socket -> Meter -> Load(coloured wires w/o sheath).

I use a Belkin-3-socket (connected to Inverter output) since I need to read the meter display easily on a flat surface.

The "coloured wires w/o sheath" goes through a MCB to various circuits inside the house. This is an isolated circuit which has only the minimum essential loads.


P.S
I think the two black wires crossing behind the inverter looks confusing!

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by knightrider_7

1. If cost is not a constraint, go for tubular. It would cost around 5k more than the combined cost of 2 normal ones.
2. Yes. They have high cycle life (no. of possible charging - discharging) coupled with fast charging. They are highly reliable too.
3. Average life of tubular ones are 4-5 years, whereas for normal ones, its usually 2-3 years.

Originally Posted by R2D2

Some tips from my experience

A tubular battery is constructed differently from flat plate batterys. Tubulars are designed for heavy discharge and a larger number of charge discharge cycle.

We purchased luminous zeilo 1700 which has a rated output of 1260 watts along with a pair of Luminous 120ah short tubular batteries. Batteries cost 9500 each and inverter cost 7000 rupees.

Thank you for the guidance

[deep_bang]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Does the digital display show Amps and Volts? Then you are set. Otherwise just buy one of those LED voltmeter displays and have them installed along with the ammeters. BTW where did you get this meter from? I may be interested in buying one too. It'll save me the hassle of pulling out my DVM or clamp meters every time I want to check on the inverter and batteries.

Yes. The meter shows both amps and volts. The most important thing for me is that the amps is sensed via contact less Eddy currents, so that way, no high currents pass through this meter making it safer.
Also, this works for positive and negative current - when charging it shows the charging current and when there is no main power, and when the inverter is discharging, it shows the discharging current.

Bought it via AliExpress (search for "Digital DC100V20A Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage Positive and negative").

[manim]

Here is my newly bought Luminous-Cruze 2kva, with two Exide 200ah IM2000 batteries.

During trickle-charge it consumes only 38w ~ 41w (for two 200ah batteries).
My older APC-BI850sine consumes 26w (for one battery).

Since there had been some discussion earlier on this thread about inverters consuming a lot of power during trickle-charge, the Luminous-Cruze is efficient.

I bought this to connect my big 581 litre inverter-fridge (rated 235w, 2A). Now I can store my ice-cream long-term in peace!

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by manim

Here is my newly bought Luminous-Cruze 2kva, with two Exide 200ah IM2000 batteries.

How much were the Exide batteries? I am getting mentally prepared for a replacement of my 5 year and 4 month old Exide IT-750 200 AH batteries.

They are supposed to last for 5-7 years but I found an oily greasy emulsion floating on the top of the electrolyte, looks like drops of dark engine oil floating on water, whilst doing the quarterly check/top up. If that emulsion were to contact and coat the plates it's bye-bye battery.

This issue is only in 1 battery and I really can't figure out what the stuff is. The batteries are of course working perfectly so far (touch wood). I am thinking of using a hydrometer to extract that muck.

[manim]

Originally Posted by R2D2

How much were the Exide batteries? I am getting mentally prepared for a replacement of my 5 year and 4 month old Exide IT-750 200 AH batteries.

Batteries were Rs.18,000 a piece.

My original plan was to buy the IT750 which was supposedly premium.
But this was quoted at Rs.20,500 (42 month warranty) and so I decided to go for the IM2000 (36 month warranty) instead.

My old APC uses a IT500 150ah, which at nearly 4.5 years, is still good.

(The Cruze was bought online at Amazon (cloudtail) at Rs.10,000)

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by manim

Batteries were Rs.18,000 a piece. My original plan was to buy the IT750 which was supposedly premium. But this was quoted at Rs.20,500 (42 month warranty) and so I decided to go for the IM2000 (36 month warranty) instead. My old APC uses a IT500 150ah, which at nearly 4.5 years, is still good. (The Cruze was bought online at Amazon (cloudtail) at Rs.10,000)

Thanks for your inputs manim. It'll help me plan out the expense. I think I'll change the inverter first. Currently the two batteries are connected to a 1.5 KVA Su-Kam sine wave unit. Boosting it to 2 KVA should be helpful and the Su-kam will be relegated to backup duties.

[r_devakumar]

Hi,

I have a Microtek Inverter with Exide IT 500 Tublar battery which is running for more than 8 years now. Even though it still handles the power cut (max of an hour or two) without any issue, i am seeing the battery water level quickly drains in the past two months. Is that the indication for a change in battery?

Considering the battery served for more than 8 years, i am planning to change. Looking for a good batter and thinking about going with Exide itself.

Also, whenever the power goes, my TV & AVR system connected with the inverted goes off for a second and reboots again (earlier, this doesn't happen and we don't even realize the power went). If any better option, i will change the inverter also.

Please let me know your suggestions for inverted and battery. The expected load will be:
1. TV & Marantz 5.1 - Should work atleast 2 hours
2. 3 Tubes and 3 Fans - Should come for a day (with #1) or two days
3. In addition, i am planning to ditch the small Numeric UPS attached with PC and connect the same to inverter (Just to manage some 15 min of work as needed)
4. My Stereo system also will be connected to this, but i use them when i am not using TV

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by r_devakumar

Hi,

...........

Also, whenever the power goes, my TV & AVR system connected with the inverted goes off for a second and reboots again (earlier, this doesn't happen and we don't even realize the power went). If any better option, i will change the inverter also.

I had similar problem with my 9 year old inverter - when ever power goes the TV and music system would trigger "Overload", even though the battery was new (I change it last year).

Finally I decided to change the inverter. The old one was 800VA Luminous and the new one 850VA Luminous. Post change the 150AH Exide battery can now supports all the load including TV, Music system, fans and lights.

Conclusion is that over the years the inverter had deteriorated and strangely its capacity had decreased. So, I suggest that you change both the inverter and battery. You can get a bargain prices if you first search the net for deals and then ask the shop to match - I got my 850VA inverter for 3K. The list price is 4.5K. After a lot of haggling the shop agreed to reduce the price and take the old inverter back.

[KMT]

I had a similar problem on my luminious, the tech came dismantled the inverter and re-soldered about 8 -10 places on the circuit board. Apparently over time the solder hardens and cracks leading to weak contacts. My inverter has worked well for over 1 year after that treatment.

[r_devakumar]

Aroy@, @KMT thank you for your input. I managed to speak to the dealer from whom i bought the inverter and battery. As per him the reason for battery water level going down quickly should be because of battery is continuously getting charged (due to significant power cur or malfunctioning of inverter). Since not much power cut in our area, the inverter need to be checked. He agreed to send a technician Monday to take the inverter for checking and will provide a standby meantime. Asked him to check the delay in power switch over also.