[sudev]

So to generate a bit more objective data I build my self a simple tool.

Connected the output from wall socket to a simple watt hour meter and output of that to a 15A switch socket. See picture. Total cost Rs600.

With this contraption in place I have started keeping a daily log of units consumed, dialed in temperature setting, outside temperature and duration of air-conditioner run.

Right now logging data on 2Star 1.5T Daikin split unit. I plan to also log data after I shift to new dwelling with inverter air-conditioner.

Will share logs to see if decision to go in for inverter units was worth the extra cost.

Just a quick share : with dialed temperature at 27 the nightly consumption is coming to 1.05 units per hour.

[Guite]

Good setup. Power consumption unit is already per hour i.e. kilowatt hour. Please post daily consumption figure under various load conditions and usage duration.

[civic-dk]

I am planning to buy Daikin Split Air Conditioners for my new apartment. The Daikin authorized reseller is quoting Rs. 31,000 for 1 Ton and Rs. 35,000 for 1.5 Ton ACs (both being 3 stars, model nos. being DTC35RRV161 and DTC50RRV161). The price includes Installation, Outdoor Stand and 3 Meters of Copper Kit. They are also claiming that Daikin Split ACs come with inbuilt stabilizers and external (additional) stabilizers are not required.

Request inputs on if the price is right, and also if the claim with respect to the inbuilt stabilizer is correct.

[sgiitk]

"civic-dk; In an inverter unit you do not need stabilizers. Just make sure the unit is R410a or R32 and not the soon to be outlawed R22.

[civic-dk]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

"civic-dk; In an inverter unit you do not need stabilizers. Just make sure the unit is R410a or R32 and not the soon to be outlawed R22.

Thanks sgiitk.

The models I am going for are non-inverter 3-star units. And i confirmed with the dealer that Daikin has moved on to using only R32 in all their ACs now.

So, is the dealer's claim that these ACs (non-inverter ones) don't need stabilizier true?

[sgiitk]

@civic-dk; Depends on the local power quality. If the voltages specified are something like 200-250 you should normally be Ok. I have never used a stabilizer in my 40 plus years of owning ACs.

[Cowardly Lion]

My stabilizer started misbehaving and was supplying on the higher side. Caught in time otherwise could hv resulted in a serious problem. No stabilizers in anyone now...

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by Cowardly Lion

My stabilizer started misbehaving and was supplying on the higher side. Caught in time otherwise could hv resulted in a serious problem. No stabilizers in anyone now...

I say more failures happen due to stabilizers than power. Normal AC etc. have induction motors, which are quite independent of voltage. I only have a 'starter' on the power supply to the AC. If the motor stalls then current goes up and it trips the starter.

[civic-dk]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

I say more failures happen due to stabilizers than power. Normal AC etc. have induction motors, which are quite independent of voltage. I only have a 'starter' on the power supply to the AC. If the motor stalls then current goes up and it trips the starter.

sgiit, sorry to sound like a noob, but how do you install a starter on the power supply to ac. Where do we get such starters?

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by civic-dk

sgiit, sorry to sound like a noob, but how do you install a starter on the power supply to ac. Where do we get such starters?

asy. These are available from almost all makers of the switches. Unlike switches they are two modules in size. You get different ones for 1, 1.5 and 2 TR. Some have a screwdriver adjustment with which you can set the trip current.

Hardly matters. Since if the motor stalls the current will go up at least 2x.

[civic-dk]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

asy. These are available from almost all makers of the switches. Unlike switches they are two modules in size. You get different ones for 1, 1.5 and 2 TR. Some have a screwdriver adjustment with which you can set the trip current.

Hardly matters. Since if the motor stalls the current will go up at least 2x.

Thanks sgiitk. I checked on Amazon and found it here http://www.amazon.in/Havells-Crabtre.../dp/B00K0C4IZ6. It seems to be for 20 A.

Is this what you were referring to? Will 20 A one fit 1 T and 25 A fit 1.5 T ACs?

[sgiitk]

"civik_dk; Definitely do not go above 20k. See if you can find a 15A unit. I think mine are all 15A with a 20A for the 2TR unit. Today if I replace then I will reduce it too to 15A. You should be able to find one from the local electrical vendor who sells switches, of the brand you have (or others which fit since the mounting differs).

[teefosi]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

"civik_dk; Definitely do not go above 20k. See if you can find a 15A unit. I think mine are all 15A with a 20A for the 2TR unit. Today if I replace then I will reduce it too to 15A. You should be able to find one from the local electrical vendor who sells switches, of the brand you have (or others which fit since the mounting differs).

You have mentioned in your earlier posts that A/c's (especially inverter a/c's) dont require stabilizer's and you havnt used any since last 40 yrs. But what about areas where there is a lot of voltage fluctuation, I stay in noida and here the voltage can dip to 100 and can rise to 270. So I have put a voltage corrector instead of a stabilizer.

But if I use a starter switch which you have suggested it will trip the a/c incase of fluctuation but a corrector would increase the voltage to the optimum level and I can still use the a/c. Please suggest.

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by teefosi

You have mentioned in your earlier posts that A/c's (especially inverter a/c's) dont require stabilizer's and you havnt used any since last 40 yrs. But what about areas where there is a lot of voltage fluctuation, I stay in noida and here the voltage can dip to 100 and can rise to 270. So I have put a voltage corrector instead of a stabilizer.

But if I use a starter switch which you have suggested it will trip the a/c incase of fluctuation but a corrector would increase the voltage to the optimum level and I can still use the a/c. Please suggest.

I have lived and worked in the IIT Campus and even in the colony we are in today voltage is quite good. We have had more issues with high (>250V) than low voltage. Even if you must put a corrector, a starter is a good safety device. I have seen a lot of correctors fail after say five years.

In your case 270V though bad is not lethal to the device, but 100V can be. In either case the starter will protect you, If the motor (or rather compressor) is driven by too high a voltage, the power factor drops and the current goes too high, or low voltage motor stalls and again the current goes up.

[teefosi]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

I have lived and worked in the IIT Campus and even in the colony we are in today voltage is quite good. We have had more issues with high (>250V) than low voltage. Even if you must put a corrector, a starter is a good safety device. I have seen a lot of correctors fail after say five years.

In your case 270V though bad is not lethal to the device, but 100V can be. In either case the starter will protect you, If the motor (or rather compressor) is driven by too high a voltage, the power factor drops and the current goes too high, or low voltage motor stalls and again the current goes up.

So should I put a starter and remove the voltage correctors because the correctors dont trip the a/c when the voltage is low or you are suggesting I should put both.

The other thing which I have noticed is when the voltage is 180 the spilt a/c works but the window a/c doesn't.