Team-BHP (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)

-   Gadgets, Computers & Software (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/gadgets-computers-software/)

-   -   The home / office air-conditioner thread (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/gadgets-computers-software/4389-home-office-air-conditioner-thread-502.html)

Hard luck ! Unfortunately, mine is a January 2020 purchase. :crying

I clearly remember the technicians denying the warranty on PCB’s.

I’m not sure about this though because the installation was done by their technician team. Of course these folks are all outsourced.

This is surprising that mains power cord is missing from AC. Please check what is written as contents in box.

Not related to AC but in our products we ask the warehouse to remove the power cord for customer return items so that they can't be shipped again.

I once received a monitor without power cord from Amazon and returned it. Amazon refunded the money without any questions.

Tough luck on the purchase date.

The installation done by 90% of the installation folks are nothing but cutting corners. If a AC is installed with a skilled person, as per user manual or HVAC basic rules, a compressor won't fail or the AC won't loose its cooling for at least 10+ years.
Rarely do these folks ever Vacuum the lines to remove moisture, this will lead to failure down the line. Doesn't matter how good the brand or the quality is.

I was surprised too when installation guys opened the box and there was no main power cord. Had to confirm with Reliance guys that panasonic doesn't ship main power cord with their AC. Never happened to me before with any other brand. Highly stupid from Panasonic.

Mitsubishi doesn’t provide one either. It’s because the length could vary, depending on the location, unlike other appliances. It’s also a good practice to maintain a continuous length without joints.
The installers carry a roll of cable and charge you only for the length used.

https://www.lg.com/in/support/warranty-terms/
You have to navigate a bit to get relevant information. There is a discount if taken within 30 days, but you can always do it within one year.

Regarding service, in my case LG did insitu wet servicing as well as dismantling and washing the IDU when needed.

LG also has plans for extended warranty after 5 years, but it is quite steep.

Hi Guys, wanted to share some information regarding Mitsubishi Electric ACs. I have 3 of their units installed at my home: one 1 ton, one 1.5 ton and one 1.9 ton, all non inverters. The 1.9 ton was purchased recently where the sales guy claimed it works till 52C, but, after installation when I read the manual, it mentioned “Guaranteed Operating Range” as 46C. Now isn’t this too low for a climate like ours? When I talked to the sales guy he gave me a vague answer like mitsubishi acs work at 4-5 degrees higher than their claimed specs. Anyways I looked at their catalogue and apart from 2-3 of their models, none had their operating range mentioned online, so I am assuming its also 46C. Below is the list of models that I own with their operating range:

1. MS H18VA - 46C
2. MS JP13VF - 50C
3. MS GK24VA - 46C

Bought a 1 ton General AC. It’s the inverter model as General also has a 1.1 ton fixed one (which is still quite popular). Quite a few people advised me to get a 1.5 ton since I was going for an inverter ac. However this is for my elderly parents who only need minimal air conditioning.

Got it for 37k. Will update the installing cost and experience.

I heard some others also have them, but not available in showrooms, where they stock only inverter units. But we can buy through dedicated HVAC sales/service set ups. This was told by one such person who came to repair my > 10 year old Samsung split ac. Those ACs give trouble very infrequently, whereas a Whirlpool inverter split Ac I bought in 2020 to replace a very old window unit gives problem almost every year without fail. It was under AMC till this January but now they are refusing to renew it. So I am planning to replace it with a non inverter type Ac as and when a big ticket repair job comes up.

I have heard of quite a few people who went back to non inverter ACs in disgust!

Edit: One general query for the forum please. The repaired Samsung Ac is in a spare bedroom and is used only when guests visit for a few days. Does one have to operate the ACs at some minimum interval for maintenance purpose? If yes, at what interval?

So , I got the AC checked by the technician and apparently it turned out to be a dusty / clogged up Outdoor unit. :Frustrati

As a mater of fact , I had got the in & out units cleaned during the last repair ~ 6 months back. They were thoroughly cleaned that time yet , the units clogged up in just 6 months!

They conducted a 'wet' cleaning process (using pressure pumps , etc.) for both the indoor & outdoor units. Supposedly this is to be done every 6 months and a 'dry' cleaning procedure , every 3 months. Not sure how sensible this. But this is what is claimed by the technicians , to ensure smooth running.

So , after this 'wet' cleaning procedure the AC performance has improved and the cooling is much better. The irregular 'blowing' noise too is gone. However , it still isn't silent like it was 3 years back (when new).

Thankfully , the earlier repaired PCB is working fine so far.

Somehow , I haven't heard any good reviews about the inverter AC's. One is better off getting the conventional one's and saving on the upfront costs. The energy savings aren't that significant with an inverter AC and definitely aren't worth the headaches of the PCB failures and other repair costs.

Good that it wasn't the PCB. Today all efficient ACs have a condeser coil (Outdoor unit coil) that is more closely spaced then what was a decade or so back. This applies to even the most efficient regular AC.

Mine and my neighbors Daikin inverter AC is 7 years old and they have no issues. Granted it only runs in the summer.

I wet clean the outdoor unit with a hand operated sprayer pump, so as to not damage the fins. Even a compressed air out of a air compressor causes the fins to bend. So cleaning should be done with really low pressure at close distance or higher pressure from further distance.

I clean them myself at a close distance, so that I do not spray the water on the electronics or on the fan.

Depends entirely on who you listen to.

Ancient history: had a terrible time with a Sharp machine. Lovely system, worked wonderfully, but did not take long to break down, and the company support was very poor. We wrote off the whole thing: threw it away.

More recently: we have two inverter ACs, both from Mitsubishi Electrical. Our 2.2 ton main-hall machine has given excellent and reliable service over daily use. Minor problems have been nothing to do with the inverter technology. The other, smaller machine, gets rare use, but has also given no problem. (we have two non-inverter machines too: one a recent Mitsubishi, the other an ancient, bought-used, Daikin)

If you want greater comfort, buy an inverter machine. If you want lower electricity bills (:confused: I haven't measured) buy an inverter machine. If you want to be able to more easily run it on non-mains power sources, eg generator or solar, buy an inverter machine.

If you want to buy what is now old technology, don't buy an inverter machine. Yes, the electronics are more expensive to repair. One of our members regularly points out that the cheapest to repair, and the least likely to go wrong, would be the simplest, entirely mechanical setup. You could rightly say that the old tech is tried and tested, but it is also true that, imho, we have moved on from inverters being unreliable.

It's like with cars: do you buy the most simple and basic vehicles with the cheapest spares? Some people do, and I can't say their philosophy is wrong, but I still choose to run a VW, and if a spare is expensive that is part of the deal.

It is entirely your choice, depending on your priorities. But make the decision on facts rather than myths. Fact: inverter ACs can be more expensive to repair. Myth: they all soon fail and all owners have to pay big bills.

I can understand the bit about not bending the fins, but otherwise I don't think they need to be babied. I see so many ODUs fitted on the terrace, they are exposed to scorching sun and blinding rain accompanied by gale force winds. If they can't harm the fan or electronics, I don't hink a hand sprayer can.

When I clean the outdoor unit, since the fan is facing outwards and the fins are facing the wall its impossible to get a spray or nozzle pointing at good angle. So I remove the top cover of the outdoor unit, which exposes the electronics on the right side but also makes cleaning the fins easier.
Any seal in a device be it a bearing seal in a fan motor or a seal in ip67 rated device, cannot withstand water spray with pressure. The rain water spray pressure is no match to a pressurized water.

When I first started cleaning, I used a air compressor and even at 90PSI adjusted pressure, it could bend the fins at a spray distance of 3 to 4 inches. Only under 60PSI does it not bend the fin and this is with air.
A pressure washer can go upto 2000+ PSI. So that is why I use a hand sprayer which has a pressure release valve ranging from 30PSI to 45psi.

Obviously if you adjust the nozzle to wider spray area, you need to compensate with increased pressure but make sure to avoid hitting the fan motor seal that is present in the shaft.
Some of the PCBs also have a conformal coating, so water cannot make direct contact but the same cannot be said to the connectors in the PCB.

Looking for some inputs on AC purchase.

I have a 19x12 room (with an connected 6x3 dressing room excluding the wardrobe space). This is an independent house, the room has two large glass windows and is north west facing on the top floor. Can this space be managed with 1.5T or 2T would be mandatory? We don't like super chilled rooms, and ~25 degrees would be the typical setting.

Also how are Samsung air conditioners? I see some good offers especially if you login to their site as a corporate user.