[graaja]

Originally Posted by khoj

Why not bring the pipes out at a level below the horizontal slab.

Once out, the drain pipe can be dropped down to ground whereas the gas and the return tubes along with the electric cable can be taken upwards to the desired ODU location (the flat space shown in one of your earlier snaps).

I considered that as well. The slab is at around 6 feet height on the wall. So, if I have to bring out the pipe below the slab, I have to place the AC below 6 feet which is not an ideal position.

[khoj]

You can install the IDU at any height you want. As long as the drain pipe slopes downwards, the gas and return tubes can go in any direction what so ever down, up or at the same level.

The weakest of compressors will allow you to have a horizontal run of 15 meters and a vertical differential of 5 meters between the IDU & the ODU, the better ones will allow for 10 meters in addition to the above figures. This is enough to allow for as flexible an installation as one would want.

Say you install the IDU at 8 or 9 feet and run the pipes down by cutting a channel of say 3" dia in the wall. The only tight spot will be where this channel will meet the slab. However cutting 3" off the face of the slab will be less cumbersome than managing the holes through the tiles etc. Once this is done the rest is a breeze and the look of the tiles too will be maintained. On the inside it is a simple job of covering the channel/conduit etc with plaster, putty and paint.

Originally Posted by graaja

I considered that as well. The slab is at around 6 feet height on the wall. So, if I have to bring out the pipe below the slab, I have to place the AC below 6 feet which is not an ideal position.

[graaja]

Originally Posted by khoj

You can install the IDU at any height you want. As long as the drain pipe slopes downwards, the gas and return tubes can go in any direction what so ever down, up or at the same level.

The weakest of compressors will allow you to have a horizontal run of 15 meters and a vertical differential of 5 meters between the IDU & the ODU, the better ones will allow for 10 meters in addition to the above figures. This is enough to allow for as flexible an installation as one would want.

Say you install the IDU at 8 or 9 feet and run the pipes down by cutting a channel of say 3" dia in the wall. The only tight spot will be where this channel will meet the slab. However cutting 3" off the face of the slab will be less cumbersome than managing the holes through the tiles etc. Once this is done the rest is a breeze and the look of the tiles too will be maintained. On the inside it is a simple job of covering the channel/conduit etc with plaster, putty and paint.

I have a sit out that is covered with a double layered tiles. If I take the pipe below the slab, I will have to take it through the gap between the slab and the tiled ceiling. I think there may be just enough space to do this. I will have a closer look at the measurements and then see if I can do this. If this becomes possible, then it will definitely save a lot of masonry work. Thanks for the idea.

[khoj]

Sure enough, go ahead and check. My suggestion is based on the same snap attached in one of your earlier posts and Guite's sketch. Looking at the photos one can see a gap of 9" to a foot at the highest point of the sit out's roof and then the same increases as the roof slopes away. You can bring the pipe out per your convenience. Unless we are all missing out on something, I believe we can expect to see a snap of the final install in a few days. Ciao

Originally Posted by graaja

Attachment 1227181

I have a sit out that is covered with a double layered tiles. If I take the pipe below the slab, I will have to take it through the gap between the slab and the tiled ceiling. I think there may be just enough space to do this. I will have a closer look at the measurements and then see if I can do this. If this becomes possible, then it will definitely save a lot of masonry work. Thanks for the idea.

[Guite]

Originally Posted by graaja

Attachment 1227181

I have a sit out that is covered with a double layered tiles. If I take the pipe below the slab, I will have to take it through the gap between the slab and the tiled ceiling. I think there may be just enough space to do this. I will have a closer look at the measurements and then see if I can do this. If this becomes possible, then it will definitely save a lot of masonry work. Thanks for the idea.

From the photograph there seems to be sufficient gap to get the work done. Khoj has given you very good idea. If you want to leave option for future maintenance open, don't cover up the vertical channel inside the room. Just finish it neat and hang a nice wide painting just below the indoor unit, this will hide the open channel.

[NPV]

Originally Posted by gopikb

Hi NPV, I installed a Daikin A/c Inverter R32 Model–FTKV50NRV16 1.5 TR at my home earlier this year. The total cost was Rs.44.5K for the A/c. Installation was extra. I have attached the quote for your reference.

Thanks Gopi.
Got the 1 Ton Daikin Inverter model FTKE35GV1 for 35k. Installation + V Guard VG 400 stabiliser came to about 7k due to extra copper piping required to place outdoor unit on the terrace (for ease of maintenance).
It uses R22 but almost 10k cheaper than similar Inverter models running on R410a/R32. R22 is going to be around for some time (complete phase out from developing countries is targeted for 2030!).

Any suggestions for covering/protecting the outdoor unit ? Right now it's just out in the open terrace. Anyone here done something for this ?

[graaja]

Originally Posted by Guite

From the photograph there seems to be sufficient gap to get the work done...

Originally Posted by khoj

Sure enough, go ahead and check...

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Diagrams simplify. Maybe it doesn't look like that in real life!

Originally Posted by diyguy

Do you have the Ac electrical wiring on the east wall?

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Go for the alternate solution, remove one tile and use a large concreted drill bit to make a hole...

Originally Posted by Aroy

This is a standard procedure in all the building we construct.

Originally Posted by vnabhi

Very good points indeed. In addition, please remember that the external unit will need maintenance in the long run (I recently had to get gas filled), so having easy access to the unit by service personnel is of paramount importance.

Thank you all for the brainstorming and great inputs. At last the AC has been installed and operational. After discussing with the builder, it was not practical to have the AC on the north wall with the existing setup, and hence that had to be abandoned. I will just cover the hole with a dummy plate or something and leave it. On the east wall, we tried to bring out the hole below the slab. But it was getting too low and would jeopardize the mounting of an LCD TV on the wall in the future. Hence, a hole was made on the wall and a matching hole on the tile structure and the pipe was brought out. Below are some pictures of the various steps.

3 inch hole being drilled on the wall. Amazing what technology can do these days! Absolutely no damage to the wall except for a neat 3 inch hole.


Tiles broken on the other side and pipe brought out. It was not possible to use the machine this side due to the sloping surface. The machine requires a flat surface to be bolted on to. So my builder sent a couple of masons to do this. And he did not charge a penny for this


The opening patched up and finished.


Internal unit fixed.


External unit fixed. The unit is now in a very convenient position for any future maintenance work!


One more issue to solve now. The water drainage pipe is too short and terminates just outside the PVC pipe. So, the water flows down the tiles and drips on the portico directly on my 10 day new Jetta

Have to extend the hose and take the water drainage to the extreme left of the tiles.

[vnabhi]

@graaja---congrats! Wish you a cool summer.

As regards water drainage, please ensure your Jetta is protected, else it will loose its shine. You can think of adding an extension to the PVC pipe.

[graaja]

Originally Posted by vnabhi

@graaja---congrats! Wish you a cool summer.

As regards water drainage, please ensure your Jetta is protected, else it will loose its shine. You can think of adding an extension to the PVC pipe.

Thanks vnabhi. The AC is a chiller indeed. Cools the room very fast. Yes. I will get the water rerouted using a PVC extension today itself.

[khoj]

Neatly done. As for the drain as already suggested by vnabhi, get PVC extensions, elbows as required. Do not opt for the softer garden variety of rubber hose. Also try and collect the water, you will be amazed as to how much you can collect, this water can be used for gardening, washing the floor etc (if not the car) another step towards a Green installation.

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by graaja

Thank you all for the brainstorming and great inputs. At last the AC has been installed and operational.

I will just cover the hole with a dummy plate or something and leave it. On the east wall, we tried to bring out the hole below the slab. But it was getting too low and would jeopardize the mounting of an LCD TV on the wall in the future.

One more issue to solve now. The water drainage pipe is too short and terminates just outside the PVC pipe. So, the water flows down the tiles and drips on the portico directly on my 10 day new Jetta

Have to extend the hose and take the water drainage to the extreme left of the tiles.

Couple of things you need to take care of -
1.) If you mount a LCD TV below the AC, the ac throw may cause condensation on it.
2.) The ACs tend to drip water from the indoor unit, if there is a blockage in the outlet pipe and this will fall on your TV - so position accordingly - maybe a wall mount that articulates a bit out from the wall.
3.) the water drain pipe needs to be at an angle to let the water flow downward - gravity - i had this issue after an experienced installer screwed up the angle and I found water suddenly pouring inside the room and around the place where I keep my laptop bag, HT speakers etc

BTW where is the stabilizer and the AC MCB?

[graaja]

Originally Posted by khoj

Neatly done. As for the drain as already suggested by vnabhi, get PVC extensions, elbows as required. Do not opt for the softer garden variety of rubber hose. Also try and collect the water, you will be amazed as to how much you can collect, this water can be used for gardening, washing the floor etc (if not the car) another step towards a Green installation.

Thanks. Right now, I have done a makeshift arrangement using a 2.5" PVC pipe section that was lying around. I have asked the plumber to come tomorrow and get the proper PVC pipe extensions to channel the water.

As you had pointed out, the water indeed is dripping onto a small garden patch on the east side of the portico

Originally Posted by diyguy

Couple of things you need to take care of -
1.) If you mount a LCD TV below the AC, the ac throw may cause condensation on it.
2.) The ACs tend to drip water from the indoor unit, if there is a blockage in the outlet pipe and this will fall on your TV - so position accordingly - maybe a wall mount that articulates a bit out from the wall.
3.) the water drain pipe needs to be at an angle to let the water flow downward - gravity - i had this issue after an experienced installer screwed up the angle and I found water suddenly pouring inside the room and around the place where I keep my laptop bag, HT speakers etc

BTW where is the stabilizer and the AC MCB?

1. The AC is quite high near the ceiling. If I set the AC vent to throw the air horizontally, would that cause condensation on the TV which is below?
2. Water dripping is one very big concern of mine as well. The reason why I had made provision for the AC on the north wall in the beginning was mainly to avoid this situation. Right now, I do not have a wall mounted TV. It is just a normal CRT TV on a stand. I will move the stand a little bit away from the wall so that any water dripping on the TV can be avoided. Will think of a solution when I go for a wall mounted LCD TV (no immediate plans anyway).
3. Yes. There is a small angle from the water drain pipe connection on the AC and the outlet, not much of a slope though. Hope this small slope is good enough to drain the water. Seeing the water dripping from the hose, I think the slope is good enough.

As this is an inverter AC, the dealer said there is no need for a stabilizer as the AC can operate over a wide range of voltage, and hence no stabilizer.

[Guite]

Originally Posted by graaja

3 inch hole being drilled on the wall. Amazing what technology can do these days! Absolutely no damage to the wall except for a neat 3 inch hole.

Wow, this calls for a round of applause . Who supplied that drilling machine?

[ampere]

Originally Posted by Guite

Wow, this calls for a round of applause . Who supplied that drilling machine?

Thats a drilling machine, used to bore through a beam which is made of concrete. It has a sharp and hollow rotating shaft which keeps piercing through the concrete. Once done you can neatly see the cylindrical concrete block come out; just like that! Amazing machine for sure. Not to mention it needs to be cooled when in operation.

[graaja]

Originally Posted by Guite

Wow, this calls for a round of applause . Who supplied that drilling machine?

Thanks Guite! My builder sent this guy over to my house. All builders use his service to drill such holes in their buildings. The guy charged me 400 bucks for making the hole.

Originally Posted by ampere

Thats a drilling machine, used to bore through a beam which is made of concrete. It has a sharp and hollow rotating shaft which keeps piercing through the concrete. Once done you can neatly see the cylindrical concrete block come out; just like that! Amazing machine for sure. Not to mention it needs to be cooled when in operation.

You are absolutely right. It was amazing to just watch the machine in action. They first drilled a hole on the wall and fixed an anchoring bolt. Then they fixed the machine to the anchoring bolt. The machine was very similar to bore well machines. Has a hollow drill bit. They also connect a tube to the machine through which water flows into the drill bit. As the machine drills water cools the bit, mixes with the cement powder and flows out as sludge (the dark matter flowing in the picture). The whole operation took less than 15 minutes. In the end when the drill bit was pulled out, there was a cylindrical cement block inside the drill bit!