[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by navin

The 520BT is an entry level AVR. It will not have the same authority that the X1200 will have. As long as you do not play too loud the 520BT can technically drive the FXI A4.

Remember that the 520 should not be played so loud that it clips. When an amplifier clips it produces a lot of high frequency energy and this energy can blow a tweeter without warning. This is your only limitation. Hope this helps.

If the 520BT he has is driving the 440b then why will it struggle with a much smaller FXIA4 surround speaker? The amp is a separate channel for each channel. If at all an amp should blow, it will be for the 440b front channel rather than the rear surround.

[Sebring]

Guys have a technical question. I have this generation old Bose Lifestyle AV-18, performs great till now but misses HDMI. I want to use the amazing single jewel cube speakers with my Denon receiver - AVR 1312.

Knowing that Bose is close guarded about their equpiment ratings, do you think the speakers would blow or the amp would get heated? I dont want issues later. I'm not getting much help online. Also, I read the speakers need crossovers, is this true?
Any advise much appreciated.

[pawan_pullarwar]

Originally Posted by navin

The 520BT is an entry level AVR. It will not have the same authority that the X1200 will have. As long as you do not play too loud the 520BT can technically drive the FXI A4.

Remember that the 520 should not be played so loud that it clips. When an amplifier clips it produces a lot of high frequency energy and this energy can blow a tweeter without warning. This is your only limitation. Hope this helps.

Thanks Navin, I ordered FXI A4. @GTO how is your experience with this surround speaker ?

Navin, Below are the specs of Denon 520BT. I am not able to understand it. Can you please help me in understanding below data ?

Number of Poweramps 5

Power Output (8 ohm, 20 Hz - 20 kHz, 0.08% 2ch Drive)70 W
Power Output (6 ohm, 1 kHz, 0.7% 2ch Drive)90 W
Power Output (6 ohm, 1 kHz, 1% 1ch Drive)130 W
Power Output (6 ohm, 1 kHz, 10% 1ch Drive)140 W

Specs also says :- All 5 power amplifier stages feature true Class AB amplification, and are configured with discrete high current power transistors that can easily drive lower impedance 6 ohm speakers, and each channel is rated at a maximum of 130 watts of power.

What is 1% 1ch Drive and 10% 2ch Drive. I didn't understand a single line :(

[dilipkumar7278]

Hi
Here is my budget HT setup
LG 55 E6T OLED
Yamaha RX-V 675
Wharfedale Diamond 10.5 towers
Polk Csi-A6 centre
Panasonic BDT - 230 bluray player
Airtel HD + STB

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by dilipkumar7278

Yamaha RX-V 675

Edit: not sure if the glass panel is there or not for the amp.

Dilip, you may want to ensure that the glass panel is either open when running or remove it totally. The yammy will generate a lot of heat and even in an air conditioned setup, during one night of binge watching, I got the burning or heated electronics smell. My wife had closed my rack during dusting and I had not noticed it. I placed a fire sensor alarm after that inside my HT setup.

[pawan_pullarwar]

Guys, Update on my Polk setup. Yesterday I bought TSX 150C center speaker and oh boy, it made hell lot of difference to listening music. The soft vocal and soft/compact bass is now coming through center speaker, which I was missing in front 440. Luckily seller had Denon 520BT, so he first played T30, which I was interested in for the cheap price, but it wasn't impressive at all with 520 receiver. But as soon as he connected TSX 150, this speaker made serious difference in overall setup. So whoever planning to buy Polk TSX 440, my advice is to must buy TSX series center speaker as well.

[navin]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

If the 520BT he has is driving the 440b then why will it struggle with a much smaller FXIA4 surround speaker? The amp is a separate channel for each channel. If at all an amp should blow, it will be for the 440b front channel rather than the rear surround.

Originally Posted by pawan_pullarwar

Power Output (8 ohm, 20 Hz - 20 kHz, 0.08% 2ch Drive)70 W
Power Output (6 ohm, 1 kHz, 0.7% 2ch Drive)90 W
Power Output (6 ohm, 1 kHz, 1% 1ch Drive)130 W
Power Output (6 ohm, 1 kHz, 10% 1ch Drive)140 W

Specs also says :- All 5 power amplifier stages feature true Class AB amplification, and are configured with discrete high current power transistors that can easily drive lower impedance 6 ohm speakers, and each channel is rated at a maximum of 130 watts of power.

If you are using the AVR with 5 speakers connected you need to get a spec that reads something along these lines:
Power Output (8 ohm, 20 Hz - 20 kHz, 0.08% 5ch Driven) XX W
Power Output (4 ohm, 1 kHz, 0.7% 5ch Drive) YY W

YY should be double of XX or close to it. The greater the difference between XX and YY the more the current the amplifier can dump and hence the less sensitive the amplifier is to REACTIVE loads. Almost all loudspeakers are reactive loads aka they are inductive and resistive together. I wont go into crossover design or planar speakers at this point because this constitutes less than 1% of commercial home loudspeakers.

Now what happens when you drive an amplifier hard. It clips. When it clips it produces high frequency artifacts and these are sent to your tweeter. Your tweeter is not designed to handle this "extra" energy and suddenly you will hear that your loudspeaker is not producing HF energy at all. This might help explain better. https://www.st-andrews.ac.uk/~www_pa...ing/page1.html

So why does the 520BT spec not include a power specification with 5 channels driven?

Because this specification will not look very good. SIMPLE.

Most likely the amplifier will produce about 40-50W rms per channel with 5 channels driven 20-20kHz at less than 1% distortion (they don't even specific the nature of the distortion so I wont go into all the different types of distortion here, suffice to know that any figure more than 1% 20-20khz is not to be considered).

One way to compute the approximate total power over 5 channels is to see the power consumption of the AVR and divide that by 1.3. (you loose about 30% in heat and other losses). Lets assume this number is 310W (I think it is this). So you divide 310/1.3 and you get 240W. 240/5 = 48W so that is about what each channel will produce with all 5 channels driven.

Hope this helps.

[GTO]

Originally Posted by pawan_pullarwar

@GTO how is your experience with this surround speaker ?(

Loving it, loving it, loving it. Movies, music & YouTube are full on right now. Shut your eyes & go for that surround speaker.



Installed. He was talking about some dipole / bipole something...


My new thub thub next to the old thub thub (that'll go to the office):


Sub faces the floor!


250C center speaker:


They carried along these nice looking connectors:


But in the end, all the joy & entertainment come down to these two li'l boxes . Oh, I love movies!


THANK YOU all for the advice. It was truly simplified here and I'm enjoying sound I'd never imagined possible in the hall. Even my family's having a blast ("like PVR", says Mom).

ProFX has been fantastic to deal with. Courteous service, professional folk and superb service. Incredibly patient in answering all by noob questions. Dude spent over an hour just tuning the sound to my tastes. The first subwoofer they got didn't work - just wouldn't turn on. Next day, a packed replacement came in.

Questions:

- I tried all the different movie watching modes, but eventually came down to choosing 'multi-channel' over Dolby surround. Main reason = I like sound filling up the room, and the rear speakers are playing 100% of the time. Even in my cars, I set the equaliser to 50:50 usually (sometimes with a slight bias to the rear). I don't like sound coming only from the front.

Is this going to blow up any of the hardware? Are the rear surrounds built to be running continuously? Can the amp handle it?

- I want to fine-tune the subwoofer myself. Objective is rich nightclub-like thub thub.

The remote has 4 phase settings - 0 / 90 / 180 / 270. Which one should I choose?

Should I adjust the subwoofer level from the Denon or directly on the subwoofer itself (it has its own volume button behind).

Lastly, what should the 'LPF for LFE' value be (for the bass, on the amplifier)?

Thanks!

[shipnil]

Dear Mods, please feel free to move / delete if you think this is not relevant.

Guys, the sound from my tv is horrible. Even for daily soaps, it sounds pathetic. I was thinking of augmenting the TV with a sound bar. I am looking specially for voice clarity.

I found few sound bars from Sony that have voice enhancing mode. I was looking at the specifications and some have (lower priced) full range drivers while some (higher priced) have mid range drivers. So what is the difference between full range drivers and mid range drivers? For my kind of need (voice clarity in dialogues), is it okay to go ahead with a sound bar that has full range driver?

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by shipnil

Dear Mods, please feel free to move / delete if you think this is not relevant.

Guys, the sound from my tv is horrible. Even for daily soaps, it sounds pathetic. I was thinking of augmenting the TV with a sound bar. I am looking specially for voice clarity.

I found few sound bars from Sony that have voice enhancing mode. I was looking at the specifications and some have (lower priced) full range drivers while some (higher priced) have mid range drivers. So what is the difference between full range drivers and mid range drivers? For my kind of need (voice clarity in dialogues), is it okay to go ahead with a sound bar that has full range driver?

Check the following soundbars:

1. Q Acoustics Q media 4 (very good reviews)
http://www.whathifi.com/q-acoustics/media-4/review
2. Yamaha yAS-105
3. JBL SB350 or SB400.

Do listen to them as sound bars have mixed opinion on true sound reproduction of sound.

[navin]

Originally Posted by GTO

They carried along these nice looking connectors:
Attachment 1559477

Questions:

- I tried all the different movie watching modes, but eventually came down to choosing 'multi-channel' over Dolby surround.

Is this going to blow up any of the hardware? Are the rear surrounds built to be running continuously? Can the amp handle it?

- I want to fine-tune the subwoofer myself. Objective is rich nightclub-like thub thub.

The remote has 4 phase settings - 0 / 90 / 180 / 270. Which one should I choose?

Should I adjust the subwoofer level from the Denon or directly on the subwoofer itself (it has its own volume button behind).

Lastly, what should the 'LPF for LFE' value be (for the bass, on the amplifier)?

Firstly those banana plugs are made by some Chinese guy who has used the Nakamichi name without authorization. But they are decent plugs. About Rs. 1000 for a set of 4.
http://shopping.rediff.com/product/4...ctors/12401938

They even have a website but no company address or email ID is mentioned.
http://www.nakamichiplugs.com/

For the record anyone wanting economically priced Banana plugs can check out MX aka MDR electronics.
http://mdrelectronics.com/ProductDisplay.asp?PID=1375

Better ones are available from Sommercable (S.U.N Media is the local distributor) and some esoteric ones from companies like Cardas.

Now to answer GTO's questions:

The rear speakers can easily handle music being played all the time. I would not worry about that unless you are playing a very loud levels. Remember the front and center speakers have a far greater power handling capacity than the rears.

Phase setting depends on where the subwoofer is placed, relative to your main speakers. I would tune by ear. Switching between 9, 90, 180, and 270 wont harm the subwoofer so try all and select the one that sounds best.

LFE (Low Frequency Energy) and LPF (Low Pass filter) levels are most often set by ear. Some AVRs come with a microphone that can set these levels (along with all 5/7 speakers). But to set by ear start with a LPF of 80Hz and turn the LFE to where you cant tell a subwoofer exists but can tell that the subwoofer is absent. Again I do this by ear (and Rudra Sen can do this too).

In the end we do this be ear to taste. Your taste may be different from mine.

[neoonwheels]

Originally Posted by GTO

- I tried all the different movie watching modes, but eventually came down to choosing 'multi-channel' over Dolby surround. Main reason = I like sound filling up the room, and the rear speakers are playing 100% of the time. Even in my cars, I set the equaliser to 50:50 usually (sometimes with a slight bias to the rear). I don't like sound coming only from the front.

Is this going to blow up any of the hardware? Are the rear surrounds built to be running continuously? Can the amp handle it?

Thanks!

Unlikely they will blow up. Most of the HTiB have Front and surround speakers of exactly the same config and so even rears can take that load.

Not sure but by multi-channel, do you mean rear speakers playing all the sound all the time? Isnt it against the surround system in the first place?

Surrounds are fired up depending on the way the sound was recorded and so ideally those are optimized as per the movie scene. For example, somebody is shooting a bullet from your rear left side, it should be played by the same position speaker and not any other.

Home theatre is best utilized for the movie its optimized for. You can check out "lossless" formats (DTS HD MA and Dolby TrueHD) which have lossless sound and those sound real sweet on HT system. Just my opinion.

Use whatever pleases your ears

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by navin

For the record anyone wanting economically priced Banana plugs can check out MX aka MDR electronics.
http://mdrelectronics.com/ProductDisplay.asp?PID=1375

Navin, the plugs shown with the Nakamichi name are in a MDR cover and have a MX part number. I have used MDR's banana plugs in my setup and they did not have this Nakamichi name on them at that time.

[navin]

Originally Posted by diyguy

Navin, the plugs shown with the Nakamichi name are in a MDR cover and have a MX part number. I have used MDR's banana plugs in my setup and they did not have this Nakamichi name on them at that time.

I saw that but MX157 is a RCA plug as per MDR's catalog. I assume the bag was only used to carry the banana plugs to GTO's place.

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by navin

I saw that but MX157 is a RCA plug as per MDR's catalog. I assume the bag was only used to carry the banana plugs to GTO's place.

Oops yes, amazed at their level of reuse of plastic
Or is it a way to dupe the customer into thinking they are getting a branded item??