[smurthy2807]

So headed out from work a little early, picked up wifey and got to Music Ranch around 5ish. Mukesh had the UD5005 in Silver and the SR5006 in Black...we wanted both in Silver - he told us that he'll replace the black SR5006 with a Silver one when he gets his next shipment in about 2 weeks. We were ok with that and paid up/loaded up the equipment.

Got back home and immediately got unpacking and setting up. The Physical setup was smooth, but having never done it before, the on-screen setup was quite a lengthy process with much of trial and error!

Finally, an hour back, I was all set with Tata Sky and the UD5005 being driven through the SR5006 and into the Tannoy Mercury V4s

Playing a Dream Theater CD, I was in bliss and totally enjoying my new buy! I'm short a couple of HDMI cables to connect my Apple TV and the UD5005 to the AVR. Will pick those up tomorrow - any recommendations?

I'm using a IXOS (sp?) stereo cable to stream my music on the UD to the SR. I understand that these are very good cables. All speaker connections are with banana connectors.

So that's about it guys - hope this helps guys looking out for a 'music' oriented setup - I'll look into getting into a 5.1 setup in 6-8 months - will probably stick to Tannoys unless the forum recommends otherwise.

Any members with either the SR5005 or 5006, please let me know - wanted to check on a few configuration matters.

Cheers/Sri

congratulations on the purchase - hope you enjoy it

will probably stick to Tannoys unless the forum recommends otherwise.

i reckon you will definitely do best to stick to the one brand

[Behemoth]

Hi Guys,

Need your advice! Am upgrading my home theatre (13x20 ft) and have a budget of 1.5 for the speakers + Amp. In the past few days, I had the opportunity to audition quite a few setups of speakers and Amps. I am keen for floorstanders + surround + subwoofer (in a 5.1 setup). The more setups I audition, the more confused I get!

Some of the speakers which I liked are:
1) Energy CS 50 Floorstanders and corresponding center , surround and sub
2) Polk Audi RTi7 + corresponding
3) Elac speakers (don't know the model number!)

I also auditioned Tannoy V4, Mordaunt Short, Quad, Focal, KEF but did not like the sound too much. I like the sound crisp and bright and lively, and as natural as possible.
For the Amp, I am considering three options:
1) Onkyo 609
2) Denon 1912
3) Yamaha 671

Need advice from all the experts on what will be a good combination and within my budget! I am planning to buy the setup within the next 2-3 days, hence would appreciate your quick advice!

Thanks!

Regards,
Behemoth

[kevintomin]

For speakers try to get the best as you will not need to change them for a long while. However, for the amplifier technology will push us to change them much earlier.

Please also audition B & W (684), Dali (Ikon 5/6 mk2 )and Monitor Audio(RX6). Please ensure left,right and center are from the same series for best sound stage. Please also look for sensitivity of speakers, higher the better.You can get some cheap ones for the rear.

Please check if you can push your budget to get Onkyo-709 as it got pre-out, so that you can add a stereo amplifier later for two channel music.

Onkyos are better for movies while Denon is very musical.

For audition, I would say first fix amplifier and then audition different speakers with same amplifier. Finally, your ears are the best judge.

Originally Posted by Behemoth

Some of the speakers which I liked are:
1) Energy CS 50 Floorstanders and corresponding center , surround and sub
2) Polk Audi RTi7 + corresponding
3) Elac speakers (don't know the model number!)

[diyguy]

Folks, i need some help here! I bought a Yamaha AV Receiver from the US. It is rated at 400W/500VA. So I picked up a 220-110V Step Down Converter from Shahs' Maxine brand. I use their step downs for all my stuff from the US, no issues so far.
The one I got now for the AV Receiver is a 1KVA, the wall mounting model from here
It has a tripper switch (MCB?). What is happening is that this converter is randomly causing my home MCB to trip and it trips its own MCB as well. I went back to Shahs' and got a replacement to their credit, though they were disgruntled when I claimed it is probably their unit that is faulty. He mentioned there is some short circuit in my house. I told him, my MCBs never trip and has started only when I am using their Step Down.
Then he claimed I cannot use it on a 6A MCB line. I told him I tried on a 16A MCB line (of my Microwave) and even that tripped.
The tripping happens to me mostly when trying to switch the Converter on. I dont know if their design causes some kind of spark inside at startup. Shahs also claimed that at startup it draws heavy load due to which the MCB will trip. I find this hard to accept with no load also, when I switch on the converter with all appliances and lights/fans switched off, it trips. I have to keep trying to set it in a On position and have to run to my fuse box to set right the tripped MCB there.
I have a UK purchased Energy meter, by which I measured the amount of current drawn at startup and it is insignificant at around .02-.03A.

I am at my wits end on trying to find a solution. I cannot afford the MCB to switch off as it will cause my Projector to switch off abruptly, endangering the bulb... anyone out there having similar issues? I did find someone on another forum with a similar problem and he was recommended by Shahs to use a 32A MCB, which is not the right opinion I think.
I also have a APC Home Inverter, but with or without it, the MCB trips.
Please help!

[nasirkaka]

Thanks to the support from the forum, finally got my amp and speakers to replace the old Sony MCH RV22 HiFi system.

AMP: Onkyo TX SR509 Rs 30,000.
speakers: Jamo S428 ( only the twin towers to begin with) Rs, 12000.

Also pickedup a philips DVD player with hdmi out and up-scaling. Intend to get a PS3 sometime later to cover Bds.


Got home and spent some time with the Manuel. The setting up was simple and straightforward. Had some tough time trying to find suitable space for various items under the tv and cable management. Am using a single V-Guard Digital stabilizer for all these appliances. Hope thats a decent enough protection.
Hooked-up the tatasky hd and dvd player with hdmi cables. plugged in the ipod through usb. searched the net and managed to get the remote code for tv, tatasky and dvd player, and configured them all on Onkyo remote. Works like charm. One remote for almost all functions. Mounted the audyssey mic on my camera tripod, and executed the functions.

Am not an audiophile, but was very pleased with the results compared to my old Sony HiFi. hope to add a center and sub later sometime, and need to read more of the Manuel and explore the system.

My aim of ease of connectivity of the various AV appliances and their management through a single receiver is been met, and i am a happy customer.

[muni]

Can anybody give some suggestions on having a wireless set up for surround speakers. I do not want to run wires from the AV reciever to the rear speakers and would be comfortable with wireless transmitter and amplification.

The surround speakers dont need big amplification and am hoping that there are economical priced solutions.

Am sure it would come in handy for a lot of ppl who are not keen on running wires on walls from the fronts to the rear which would spoil the aesthetic look.

Can anybody throw some light with brands and costs for this..

[NetfreakBombay]

Originally Posted by muni

wireless set up for surround speakers.

Do you have wires for providing power to surround speakers?

[muni]

Originally Posted by NetfreakBombay

Do you have wires for providing power to surround speakers?

I thought that the AV receiver part in my question answered that there are surround speakers amplification channels and I don't want to run the wires.

I have an Onkyo 5.1 AV receiver which has 2 channels for surrounds. The wires are there but i don't want to run them on the walls. I wanted some wireless solutions that are available in our market that are being used by team-bhp members or information from people who have info.

[Behemoth]

Originally Posted by diyguy

Folks, i need some help here! I bought a Yamaha AV Receiver from the US. It is rated at 400W/500VA. So I picked up a 220-110V Step Down Converter from Shahs' Maxine brand. I use their step downs for all my stuff from the US, no issues so far.
The one I got now for the AV Receiver is a 1KVA, the wall mounting model from here
It has a tripper switch (MCB?). What is happening is that this converter is randomly causing my home MCB to trip and it trips its own MCB as well. I went back to Shahs' and got a replacement to their credit, though they were disgruntled when I claimed it is probably their unit that is faulty. He mentioned there is some short circuit in my house. I told him, my MCBs never trip and has started only when I am using their Step Down.
Then he claimed I cannot use it on a 6A MCB line. I told him I tried on a 16A MCB line (of my Microwave) and even that tripped.
The tripping happens to me mostly when trying to switch the Converter on. I dont know if their design causes some kind of spark inside at startup. Shahs also claimed that at startup it draws heavy load due to which the MCB will trip. I find this hard to accept with no load also, when I switch on the converter with all appliances and lights/fans switched off, it trips. I have to keep trying to set it in a On position and have to run to my fuse box to set right the tripped MCB there.
I have a UK purchased Energy meter, by which I measured the amount of current drawn at startup and it is insignificant at around .02-.03A.

I am at my wits end on trying to find a solution. I cannot afford the MCB to switch off as it will cause my Projector to switch off abruptly, endangering the bulb... anyone out there having similar issues? I did find someone on another forum with a similar problem and he was recommended by Shahs to use a 32A MCB, which is not the right opinion I think.
I also have a APC Home Inverter, but with or without it, the MCB trips.
Please help!

Hi DIYguy,
This problem often has to do with the ratings of MCBs. They come in different curve ratings - B,C,D which define the degree of overload that they can withstand before they trip. A B16 rated MCB will trip very quickly when the current exceeds typically the rated current. A C16 rated MCB will allow a higher surge current for a short time and not trip. Typically, appliances with inductive coils like motors and transformers, like your step down unit, will have a very high surge current because of the inductance, often 4x the rated current.
A B rated MCB trips between 3x to 5x of rated current.
A C rated MCB trips between 5x to 10x of rated current.
So to address your problem, I would recommend changing your DB box MCB to C32. Also, to protect your projector, put it on a dedicated UPS which will protect it better. If you put all of the load on the same UPS, including the amp, the amp may cause a trip, which can cause premature failure of the lamp.
Also, it is normal for all inductances (transformers) to show this behaviour of high startup current and your step down unit is fine.
Just change your DB MCB and use a sepate UPS for your projector, and things should be fine.
Regards,
Behemoth

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by Behemoth

Hi DIYguy,
This problem often has to do with the ratings of MCBs. They come in different curve ratings - B,C,D which define the degree of overload that they can withstand before they trip. A B16 rated MCB will trip very quickly when the current exceeds typically the rated current. A C16 rated MCB will allow a higher surge current for a short time and not trip. Typically, appliances with inductive coils like motors and transformers, like your step down unit, will have a very high surge current because of the inductance, often 4x the rated current.
A B rated MCB trips between 3x to 5x of rated current.
A C rated MCB trips between 5x to 10x of rated current.
So to address your problem, I would recommend changing your DB box MCB to C32. Also, to protect your projector, put it on a dedicated UPS which will protect it better. If you put all of the load on the same UPS, including the amp, the amp may cause a trip, which can cause premature failure of the lamp.
Also, it is normal for all inductances (transformers) to show this behaviour of high startup current and your step down unit is fine.
Just change your DB MCB and use a sepate UPS for your projector, and things should be fine.
Regards,
Behemoth

Hi Behemoth, I read it might be the MCB type and checked out what I have at home. It is a C6. I guess I will try with the C32. I have C20s at home and was considering trying it out first on the C20 line to check if it trips on that too prior to going out and buying a C32.
Thanks!

Originally Posted by naveenroy

Anyone know if those multi-CD players are still available anywhere? I am not really looking for a great source per se but more interested in the ability to load up multiple audio CDs and listen rather than have to load/unload each CD as I listen to it.

If you are particular you can check out the multi-cd changers one gets for cars...


Note from the Team-BHP Support Team: Please use the "edit" button if posting within 30 minutes of the first post, instead of creating another back-to-back post.

Also use "Multi Quote" option for quoting Multiple posts.

[NetfreakBombay]

Originally Posted by muni

I thought that the AV receiver part in my question answered that there are surround speakers amplification channels and I don't want to run the wires.

Wireless speakers need electrical sockets (most are compatible with both 110V and 200V).


Wireless speakers have a transmitter that would connect to AV receiver. Speakers need electrical power to:

1. Run radio receiver
3. Run built-in amplifier

I am using a pair of such speakers for surround (AW880 from Audiovox Acoustic). Cost was $140. It needs three AC adapters. One for transmitter that connects to AV receiver and two for individual speakers.

[Behemoth]

Hi Guys,
Finally took the plunge for my HT setup. This setup will be used 95% for movies, hence my decision was based on the movies experience. For the Amps, the top contenders were :
Denon 1912
Yamaha 671
Onkyo 609
My choice from the movies experience was Onkyo 609.
ONKYO SIGHT & SOUND - INDIA

For the speakers, it was a very difficult choice ! Finally I chose the speakers which sounded best to me with the Onkyo and it is the Energy CF50 5.1 setup
CF-50 5.1 Home Theater System - Overview

It has a very warm and pleasant sound and vocals are nice and clear. The bass is also clear and tight and not so muddy. I found a lot of the other speakers which I auditioned : Tannoys V4 series, Wharfedale, Polk RTI A7 lacking in vocals. The Polks had a very good soundstage, but were a little muddy in midrange and bass.
Energy speakers are sold and serviced by the same guys as Onkyo in India.
The total cost of the AMP + Speakers was : 45 K + 105 K = 150 K. Bought them from Onkyo shop in MGF Metropolitan Mall Gurgaon.
Should get the delivery on 14th Jan. Will share my experiences!

Regards,
Behemoth

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by Behemoth

Hi DIYguy,
This problem often has to do with the ratings of MCBs. They come in different curve ratings - B,C,D which define the degree of overload that they can withstand before they trip. A B16 rated MCB will trip very quickly when the current exceeds typically the rated current. A C16 rated MCB will allow a higher surge current for a short time and not trip. Typically, appliances with inductive coils like motors and transformers, like your step down unit, will have a very high surge current because of the inductance, often 4x the rated current.
A B rated MCB trips between 3x to 5x of rated current.
A C rated MCB trips between 5x to 10x of rated current.
So to address your problem, I would recommend changing your DB box MCB to C32. Also, to protect your projector, put it on a dedicated UPS which will protect it better. If you put all of the load on the same UPS, including the amp, the amp may cause a trip, which can cause premature failure of the lamp.
Also, it is normal for all inductances (transformers) to show this behaviour of high startup current and your step down unit is fine.
Just change your DB MCB and use a sepate UPS for your projector, and things should be fine.
Regards,
Behemoth

Originally Posted by diyguy

Hi Behemoth, I read it might be the MCB type and checked out what I have at home. It is a C6. I guess I will try with the C32. I have C20s at home and was considering trying it out first on the C20 line to check if it trips on that too prior to going out and buying a C32.
Thanks!

Hi Behemoth, I tried this again on a C20 line in my house, where my microwave is connected. When switching on the converter, the DB MCB does not trip but the MCB on the converter itself is tripping. The Maxine converter has a C10 MCB on it. I fail to understand this design of theirs with no consideration to real life application. If their inrush current is high, shouldnt they design their device so that their own MCB doesnt trip? They claim to have 50 years of experience in this business and other than this, I have not had issues with their other equipment...
The problem is that even if i change my DB MCB to C32, due to frequent power cuts, when the power comes back, it will cause the inbuilt MCB on the converter to trip, due to which one cannot use this in a continuous operation...

[muni]

Originally Posted by NetfreakBombay

Wireless speakers need electrical sockets (most are compatible with both 110V and 200V).


Wireless speakers have a transmitter that would connect to AV receiver. Speakers need electrical power to:

1. Run radio receiver
3. Run built-in amplifier

I am using a pair of such speakers for surround (AW880 from Audiovox Acoustic). Cost was $140. It needs three AC adapters. One for transmitter that connects to AV receiver and two for individual speakers.

thanks for the info and checked what you are using but my need is different.

I already have surround speakers. Cant we have some solution like this.

a) Transmitter which takes input from the receiver surround speakers out and transmits them as FM signal or whatever way it can with less loss.
b) Receivers + amplifiers which will receive the audio signals via wireless and drive the Surround speakers with wires connected from the receiver/amplifiers.

I want to use the regular surround speakers that i already have.