[akbaree]

Originally Posted by navin

HDAM is SMD only useful at mV levels. The 7025's power supply should be far better than the 5010.

You'll do yourself a favour if you stop reading and start listening. I barely read any reviews or marketing material. I trust my own ears.

Yeah, who can not agree with the listening part. Just that it is extremely difficult to find opportunities to listen. I have some more leads and will be doing more listening on the coming weekend.

[mashmash]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

That's interesting. The Rti A3 goes lower than the Dali's but in real world listening you can never feel that. The Zensor 3 had much more bass and was far more punchier at low frequencies than the RtiA3.

What one feels in real world at times is totally opposite of what the numbers say. I power my polk with a Nad and a Pioneer stereo amp(not at the same time!!) and the difference is day and night. Same speaker, same position, same music and if one did a blindfold test, can never say its the same speaker playing.

That's why should always demo speakers with your own Amp or demo the Amp with your own Speakers.

Originally Posted by navin

1. Please do not read too much into paper specs. Most companies use different testing parameters and procedures. I happen to know the procedures used by both Polk and Dali (unless they have changed them in the last 15 years) and their rooms are very different. Instead of clogging this channel with a load of techno gobbledygook my recommendation is to LISTEN. Trust your ears. Vid6639 talked to me on the phone and he knows I can drone on indefinitely given half the chance.

2. The problems with the 550 is not uncommon. Even the JBL 260P has this issue. The cap in my son's 260 blew once and went leaky the second time. If it goes again I intend to replace it with the SVS PB-2000 (around 70k I believe). Only reason I am holding on to the JBL is in memory of Sam. Fortunately my son's main speakers (4312E) have enough bass so if the sub goes he can live without it for a while. Another reason to have main speakers with "some" bass.

1. Oh yes, its never ending. Once your start going into the numbers and decoding that stuff, you tend to start losing the art of listening and enjoying music.

2. Ahh Ok. My prev Boston sub was murdered by a rat and the one before that by cockroaches if I remember when we had gone on an extended holiday. My current Wharfedale sw150 seems to be holding on. PB2000 for what room size? If the speakers themselves have enough bass, then nothing better.

MaSh

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by pawan_pullarwar

I tried lots of sound settings, whatever were available with Denon receiver, but still the result is same.

If you prefer the sound of a stand mount speaker like the 110 or 220, and if your dealer is allowing a swap, go ahead. However; the speaker isn't the culprit here. It is you AV receiver. Better separation is a given with a stand mount speaker. Ask the dealer if you can audition the 220 in your room. Going by the specifications, the stand mounts probably require better amplification.

Keep in mind that you will have to invest in a decent pair of stands for the stand mount speakers.
Stands can be bought here : http://soundfoundations.in/
Prices start at 7k.

[pratyush6]

Guys I am using an Okyo + Pure Acoustics 5.1 speaker setup for as my home theater. Recently, I have had issues with my Active Sub-woofer - It literally does not work, I have tried changing cables, played around with the settings, but it just has no effect. Another info is that, it had the same issues 4 months back and was fixed by the Onkyo guys.

Can I replace just the Sub with another, I was looking at the Yamaha Active priced around the 10k mark? Any other suggestions?

[GTO]

Guys,

What rear speakers should I use? The sub & center speaker are already finalised.

In some situations, I would like to keep the rear speakers permanently on too (not just for surround effects). Reason being, the room is long and the seats are right in the middle. So, it'll be nice to have sound filling up the room.

Thanks!

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by GTO

Guys,

What rear speakers should I use? The sub & center speaker are already finalised.

In some situations, I would like to keep the rear speakers permanently on too (not just for surround effects). Reason being, the room is long and the seats are right in the middle. So, it'll be nice to have sound filling up the room.

Thanks!

Surround is not for actual music but the effects. Since you have an all polk combo you can go for the following options:

1. TSX220b - Cannot be wall mounted and will need floor stands or a shelf.
2. TSX110b - These are ideal for surround
3. Rtia1 - One series higher than the TSX you have. Very crisp sounding more than the TSX.

[navin]

Originally Posted by mashmash

PB2000 for what room size? If the speakers themselves have enough bass, then nothing better.

This is my son's room. About 220-230 sq. ft with a 9 ft ceiling. The subwoofer is for the times he and his friends turn the room into some kind of discotheque. Thankfully they do less and less of this now since my son's taste (Clapton, Knopfler, Deep Purple etc.) is now different from what his friends listen to (One Direction, Imagine Dragons, etc.). The only band they have in common now is AC/DC - go figure.

Originally Posted by GTO

What rear speakers should I use?!

Originally Posted by Vid6639

2. TSX110b - These are ideal for surround.

Just get the 110 GTO. Actually just about any decent speaker will do for surrounds The 110 is more than adequate. Congrats on building a HT so fast.

[naveenroy]

Guys, I have a Cambridge Audio stereo amp lying idle at home since I invested in a Pioneer AVR. However, I miss the CA amp for stereo - it was sweet sounding. The AVR doesn't have pre-outs for the speakers - so there is no way to wire the speakers to the stereo amp through the AVR. Is there any other way to do it - some switch or something? Where can I get such a device if there is one?

Originally Posted by navin

....son's taste (Clapton, Knopfler, Deep Purple etc.) is now different from what his friends listen to (One Direction, Imagine Dragons, etc.). The only band they have in common now is AC/DC - go figure.

Severely OT - but lucky your son at least listens to stuff like that. I tried schooling my nephew on some old school rock but....

[pawan_pullarwar]

Originally Posted by GTO

Guys,

What rear speakers should I use? The sub & center speaker are already finalised.

In some situations, I would like to keep the rear speakers permanently on too (not just for surround effects). Reason being, the room is long and the seats are right in the middle. So, it'll be nice to have sound filling up the room.

Thanks!

I am planning to buy FXI A4 Surround, very good reviews on amazon.com. Dipole/Bipole in one speaker with switch to shift between.

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Su...ct_top?ie=UTF8

[GTO]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

Surround is not for actual music but the effects. Since you have an all polk combo you can go for the following options

Originally Posted by navin

Just get the 110 GTO. Actually just about any decent speaker will do for surrounds The 110 is more than adequate.

Thanks! But I'll be using it for:

1. Surround

2. 'Always on' mode (as per requirement)

Second point means more power is needed right? Also, whatever I get needs to be wall-mounted.

Congrats on building a HT so fast.

Thanks to all the advice from you guys .

Originally Posted by pawan_pullarwar

I am planning to buy FXI A4 Surround

This was the first recommendation by my guy at ProFX. Damn, they look sweet.

[Fillmore]

Originally Posted by naveenroy

so there is no way to wire the speakers to the stereo amp through the AVR. Is there any other way to do it - some switch or something? Where can I get such a device if there is one?

How about this ?
Have a dedicated audio player hooked up to the Stereo amp which you use only to play music.

Then get a Switcher Box something like this.
So you can switch the Amp input source for the Speaker when needed.

There are other models as well.

However before you do this , check you speaker rear to see if they support Bi-Amping.
Because if they do , then problem solved, no need of the switch

Ref :

[naveenroy]

Originally Posted by Fillmore

....
So you can switch the Amp input source for the Speaker when needed.

There are other models as well.

However before you do this , check you speaker rear to see if they support Bi-Amping.
Because if they do , then problem solved, no need of the switch

Many thanks for the reply! Yes, the switch looks like a good option - will look out for alternatives that support more than 10W.

Also, thanks for the info on bi-amping. My speakers do have 4 binding posts like in the picture - so maybe I can bi-amp. Guess I have to be extra careful when switching sources though - cannot keep the stereo amp and the AVR on at the same time I guess?

[navin]

Originally Posted by naveenroy

Guys, I have a Cambridge Audio stereo amp ...The AVR doesn't have pre-outs for the speakers - so there is no way to wire the speakers to the stereo amp through the AVR

Originally Posted by Fillmore

How about this ?
Have a dedicated audio player hooked up to the Stereo amp which you use only to play music.

Then get a Switcher Box something like this.

Originally Posted by naveenroy

Many thanks for the reply! Yes, the switch looks like a good option

Hold on. That Switch box is a speaker selector switch NOT an amplifier selector switch. It is designed to be used for choosing speaker A, speaker B or speaker A+B from a SINGLE amplifier.

Another thing. When you remove the jumper from the biamp/biwire speaker posts you are effectively disconnecting the woofer from the mid/hf section. That means (if you connect them like shown in biamping wiring) when amp 1/AVR (connected to woofer) is on only the woofer will be operational and when amp 2/Cambridge is on only the mid/hf will be on.

Now since the signal from the CD player/source is going only to the amp 1 (AVR) only the woofer will make any sound.

So this will NOT work.

Instead I would suggest thinking along these lines (see pic)
Connect the speaker terminal of the AVR to the woofer and this gadget (in parallel). Since this gadget has a very high input impedance it will not load the amp much. Now connect the gadget to the Cambridge amp and the Cambridge amp to the mid hf section. Now the signal from the Source will go to both amplifiers.

The AVR will drive the woofers (as shown in the biamping wiring) and the Cambridge will drive the mid/hf.

One word of caution. You will not get true biamping here. Since both amps will be effectively be running fullrange and the speaker's crossover will be filtering the low and high frequencies for the respective sections.

For true biamping you need to install crossover before the amplifiers which in this case is NOT possible.

Attachment 1556869
Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by naveenroy

Severely OT - but lucky your son at least listens to stuff like that. I tried schooling my nephew on some old school rock but....

To be honest I did not influence him at all. Try influencing a teenager. My influence if any was before age 10. When he started playing guitar some years ago he wanted to learn a song and the simplest song I found was Led Zeppelin's Stairway to Heaven's intro part (before all hell breaks loose). So that's what he learned. After that he has been left alone.

[Holyghost]

Originally Posted by Fillmore

However before you do this , check you speaker rear to see if they support Bi-Amping.
Because if they do , then problem solved, no need of the switch

Ref :

Originally Posted by naveenroy

Many thanks for the reply! Yes, the switch looks like a good option - will look out for alternatives that support more than 10W.

Also, thanks for the info on bi-amping. My speakers do have 4 binding posts like in the picture - so maybe I can bi-amp. Guess I have to be extra careful when switching sources though - cannot keep the stereo amp and the AVR on at the same time I guess?

Guys, Bi-Amping is for powering your high frequencies and Low frequencies with seperate amplifier/circuit. This will not serve Naveenroy's purpose.

The top speaker binding posts power your high frequencies. The lower posts power your low frequencies. So if you remove the connect your amp only to top binding post, all you hear would be sound from the tweeter and vice versa for the woofer and lower binding posts.

[Fillmore]

Originally Posted by navin

Hold on. That Switch box is a speaker selector switch NOT an amplifier selector switch. It is designed to be used for choosing speaker A, speaker B or speaker A+B from a SINGLE amplifier.

Originally Posted by Holyghost

The top speaker binding posts power your high frequencies. The lower posts power your low frequencies. So if you remove the connect your amp only to top binding post, all you hear would be sound from the tweeter and vice versa for the woofer and lower binding posts.

@Navin & Holyghost,

Thanks for clarifying this and pointing out the error.
I now understood how Bi-Amping ports on the speaker work and agree it would not serve NaveenRoy's requirement.


However to Navin's comment on the switch.
If your reverse the connections , would it be possible to achieve this without shorting out either Amp ?

i.e. where it says Speaker A and Speaker B you hook the 2 amps
Amp1 +/- to speaker source A
Amp2 +/- to speaker source B

The Input you just connect to
Left speaker +/-
Right speaker +/-

And use the Switch controller only on A or B (Never both A and B)
Would this work ? it would still link the circuit ?