![]() | #541 | ||
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![]() | #542 |
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![]() | #543 | |
BHPian ![]() | ![]() Quote:
The differential hum is a very common problem int he 118NE. I had to dismantle it twice but still I am not 100% satisfied. Seems like mine to needs a complete change of differential & Propeller Shaft (as there are some minor vibrations too). | |
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![]() | #544 | ||
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![]() | #545 | |
Distinguished - BHPian ![]() Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: MUMBAI
Posts: 3,060
Thanked: 4,993 Times
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Premier Padmini S1 engine introduction was done as per engineering document number RDS/90/PP/1 (Release Delete Schedule 1 of the year 1990 for the "PP" car or Premier Padmini. Inside Kurla plant, Premier Padmini was called "PP Car"). Nissan A12 engine was never introduced in production PP cars although we had completed most of the engineering work. There were major modifications to the sub-frame due to the engine sump orientation and major modifications to the steering system due to fouling of the bell housing top flange with the bell crank lever. The mechanical fuel pump was interfering with the suspension arm. However, "changes to the Padmini engine compartment dress level parts" to equip the Nissan A12 engine were introduced in production. For example, redesigned steering tie rods, offset bell crank lever and 'tengul" for the shift of the bell crank lever (depression is known as "tengul" in Marathi) were introduced in late 1996. S1 engines had the redesigned intake ports with increased swirl, improved inertia flywheel, Mikuni carburettor with redesigned intake manifold, twin pipe exhaust system, Nissan F4W56A transmission with direct shift floor mounted gear shift lever, electric fan with cross flow radiator and 3.9:1 axle ratio. Axle ratio and final drive details: this is a direct lift-off from the 118NE. The assembly part number is the same. It fits directly on the Padmini axle tube. All my fiats (except the ones purchased recently) run the 3.9:1 axle ratio only. It is like running an overdrive. Best regards, Behram Dhabhar PS - S1 engine is of Padmini only, this engine runs on the Mikuni carburettor, which uses the 118NE air cleaner, due to which many people open the bonnet and say that "this is NE engine". It has happened in front of me many times. I just smile to myself as it is good entertainment for me. However, as you have mentioned that your friend's taxi has the Nissan engine, it is a patch job as it is converted from the diesel car. I have seen such cars, they are indeed terribly made, with the top of the bell housing cut off! | |
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![]() | #546 | |
BHPian ![]() | ![]() Quote:
If we change the Axle ratio, wont that effect the odometer reading & speedometer (showing wrong speed)? | |
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![]() | #547 |
Distinguished - BHPian ![]() Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: MUMBAI
Posts: 3,060
Thanked: 4,993 Times
| ![]() Dear Kkvaidya - sorry for late reply due to extensive travelling on work. Just came back! Whew! Your query on the steering gear of the 118NE - there is no drain in the design. You just need to remove the steering gear off the car to drain it through the filler plug. The oil grade is SAE140, the quantity is 220cc. I remember you mentioning about high steering effort. If overhauled properly, this should not be an issue but if bushes etc are replaced by a "lathewallah" ( ![]() Your query on speedometer ratio for Padmini converted to 3.9:1 axle ratio - you are correct. The speedometer constant is defined as "W" value. W for Padmini with 4.3:1 axle ratio and 5.20*14 tires (due to dynamic rolling radius) = 1000. This means that 1000 turns of the speedometer cable will register as 1km and speed will be shown accordingly. Obviously, for a Padmini with 3.9:1 axle ratio, W has to reduce by 3.9/4.3*1000 = 0.906 or 0.9, means that 900 turns will show 1km, but in production we had used 0.91 due to CMVR requirement on control of speedometer calibration. For S1 cars, W again changes due to use of 155/80R14 tires with 3.9:1 axle ratio. W = what value is actually stamped on the back of speedometers or there is a sticker there. For my cars, I don't care what it shows because my instrument clusters are in any case changed to the three round ones, speedometer cables are in any case not connected at all! ![]() Best regards, Behram Dhabhar |
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![]() | #548 | |
BHPian ![]() | ![]() Quote:
If some one is so particular about vehicle speed, one can use GPS or simply a digital bicycle speedometer where you can feed in the rolling radius directly. Apart from the deviation from originality, it will serve the purpose. | |
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![]() | #549 |
BHPian Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: -_-
Posts: 314
Thanked: 120 Times
| ![]() Well in that case , i am curious. Is the amby diff a direct fit on the contessa housing? I have a contessa, and contessa diffs are notorious for wearing out quickly so i would like to save my original diff. Plus the contessa could do with a slightly shorter final drive since 5th gear is unusable under 65kmph. |
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![]() | #550 | |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Meerut
Posts: 21
Thanked: Once
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This is very clear from the badge placed at center of the grill, in the SS80 it is on one side. Also the front part of the SS80 is slightly flat and does not taper down as shown in the PIC. Apart from these differences the headlamps are bigger than the Maruti ones. The front glass is curved on the sides unlike the SS80 which is less curved. | |
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![]() | #551 | |
BHPian ![]() Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Arkansas,US
Posts: 280
Thanked: 44 Times
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I owned an 118NE for many years and I can very well distinguish an 118NE from an SS80 on a first look itself. Sorry If I am offensive. | |
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![]() | #552 |
BHPian ![]() | ![]() Alt last got this thing for which I was looking for ![]() |
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![]() | #553 |
BHPian ![]() Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Hyderabad
Posts: 587
Thanked: 565 Times
| ![]() Congratulations KKVaidya!! ![]() ![]() Regards and Keep Revving, Rahul Waghmare. Last edited by Scarlet_Rider : 3rd June 2013 at 14:30. |
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![]() | #554 |
BHPian ![]() | ![]() The UCAL electric fuel pump has stopped throwing fuel. I tried force-feeding by filling the pipe with petrol & lifting it up for gravity feed but no success. It emits a loud tik-tik noise. I also tried sucking petrol from the outlet side but that too did not work. But it does throw air from the outlet so I figure some clog inside. Any ideas on how to start the flow again? |
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![]() | #555 | |
BHPian ![]() | ![]() Quote:
Though I haven't faced such a problem so far, my first doubt would be "Is the fuel tank empty?". Is there a cut or crank in the hose between the tank & the pump inlet? Try another pump if you have a spare. | |
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