[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by ilangop

The speedo cable only translates the propeller shaft (PS) rotations to speedometer. With 3.9 ratio, the PS rotates 3.9 times for 1 tyre rotation. For covering the same distance the propeller shaft has to rotate 4.3 times now. Hence you speedo reading will be 4.3/3.9 = 1.1 times to actual speed. Also the odo count will addup for ever 1/1.1 = 0.9 kms. For instance, you would have covered only 9Kms when the odo actually shows 10km. And when the speedo needle points 60kmph, the car will be actually travelling at 60*3.9/4.3 = 54 kmph.

That's Great work you do Mr. Engineer. Now this has made me thinking. Actually the whole concept behind this is to make my car more powerful. I was also thinking of getting the cylinder heads polished but my friend cum mechanic says it wont make a lot of difference for the effort.
BTW, does your car run on Petrol or is it LPG?

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

That's Great work you do Mr. Engineer. Now this has made me thinking. Actually the whole concept behind this is to make my car more powerful. I was also thinking of getting the cylinder heads polished but my friend cum mechanic says it wont make a lot of difference for the effort.
BTW, does your car run on Petrol or is it LPG?

Mine runs with Petrol & Petrol only.
Playing around with the ratios only change the torque & speed. Power = torque X Speed.
For increasing the power output check the net for various stages of engine tuning. Starting from stage-1, there are n different tuning options. A free flow exhaust and little of upsized jet is somewhere you can start with. Your Garage says that you have installed stock replacement K&N fro your NE. Have you upsized the jet as well. Do you sense any temperature rise with K&N in comparison with the stock.
A search in the net can give you 100 different options to tune a A12 engine. Racing cam shafts, A15 engine head conversion, Two separate carbs, and what not. I know a friend in Pune, who had skimmed the NE head by about 0.7 mm to increase compression ratio, grooved it and claims to have super smooth idle & low - mid range performance. Havent seen the car yet, though.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by ilangop

Starting from stage-1, there are n different tuning options. A free flow exhaust and little of upsized jet is somewhere you can start with. Your Garage says that you have installed stock replacement K&N fro your NE. Have you upsized the jet as well. Do you sense any temperature rise with K&N in comparison with the stock.

I have a stock replacement K&N in my car and have not noticed any temperature rise. Why would that happen but?
For the free-flow exhaust, i did experiment it with a local muffler guy. The sound was good but I felt loss of torque. Acceleration seemed to have improved but it could be that because the engine 'growled' you tend to push the revs and thus more speed. I got over with the exhaust note and it was not in parity with the looks, so i changed back to stock.
I would note change the exhaust note too much. Would rather make a semi-free flow exhaust
The the carburetor jets, I have not tinkered it yet. I am skeptical about opening the Hitachi as the original gaskets are not available.
I am interested in going for racing cams rather. I have a "Datsun Competetion Parts-aka NISMO" PDF that has all the parts on offer but don't know where to order from!
I am also thinking of going for an electric fan and CDI Ignition(for consistent timing). Does anyone have clues to that?

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

I have a stock replacement K&N in my car and have not noticed any temperature rise. Why would that happen but?
For the free-flow exhaust, i did experiment it with a local muffler guy. The sound was good but I felt loss of torque. Acceleration seemed to have improved but it could be that because the engine 'growled' you tend to push the revs and thus more speed. I got over with the exhaust note and it was not in parity with the looks, so i changed back to stock.
I would note change the exhaust note too much. Would rather make a semi-free flow exhaust
The the carburetor jets, I have not tinkered it yet. I am skeptical about opening the Hitachi as the original gaskets are not available.
I am interested in going for racing cams rather. I have a "Datsun Competetion Parts-aka NISMO" PDF that has all the parts on offer but don't know where to order from!
I am also thinking of going for an electric fan and CDI Ignition(for consistent timing). Does anyone have clues to that?

A link for performance camshafts for Nissan A12.
Auckland Cams Camshafts DATSUN A12-A15
The K&N airfilter & and typical performance airfilters reduce the pumping losses by having larger air pores than the standard OE filters. As a result the engine can breathe easier & faster. This results in reduction of vacuum in the venturi and hence lead to a leaner mixture. This is later corrected with a little larger jet. Thats why I asked if there was any rise in temperature. FUNKYKAR (Karthik) from bangalore has a 4-2-1 header + free-flow muffler for his NE. But the person who fabricated this system is no more interested in working on NEs it seems. You can have a work with him on this.
For the CDI, will the Contessa's system work in our? A spare part seller said that the 1.5 Isuzu Engine for Ambassador has the same system and can be swapped on to NE. No clue on this, so just nodded by head and returned home.

[Scarlet_Rider]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Hi Rahul,
Need your help to please publish the 'Differential Servicing' pages from your workshop manual.

Will try and post the pictures some time over the weekend.

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

I am also thinking of going for an electric fan and CDI Ignition(for consistent timing). Does anyone have clues to that?

Originally Posted by ilangop

For the CDI, will the Contessa's system work in our?

Both our cars have a CDI unit fitted. PM me for more details.

Regards and Keep Revving,

Rahul Waghmare.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by Scarlet_Rider

Will try and post the pictures some time over the weekend.

Hi Rahul,
Can I get the wiring diagram from your manual. Also still waiting for the differential section.

Thanks.

[Nissan1180]

Here are a few pics of our 1995 model 118NE. This was refurbished in January this year, after being in the garage for more than 4 months.
The owner of the place [Mainak Automobiles] was very interested in restoring the body work, which we felt had corroded beyond repair! He took the car on 15th January, promised to deliver it in a month. This turned out to be difficult, and we finally got the car back in May this year.

Large sections of the boot lid were replaced, the door panels were relieved of the dents, welding was carried out extensively in the under chassis as well.

Besides the body work, the electrical system needed a lot of work, with lights conking off routinely on the road, and the fuel gauge not working. These niggles were fixed after the paint job, and the car was returned to us in a really good shape!

The highlight of the restoration work was the painting and the overall finish in the body work. The gloss on the surface is amazing, and even after the monsoon, there are very few visible indicators of corrosion (Unless you own a PAL, you might find it surprising that people actually expect their cars to corrode annually )
I shall start a long term ownership experience as soon as my schedule permits me to do so. This car has been with us since 1998 (we purchased it from a doctor back then).
A couple of parts need to be replaced. The RHS door mirror needs replacement, the side claddin on the left door pillar has to be replaced (the plastic hardened and broke off )
I really want to get those original plastic wheel covers. Couldn't find them in the old city. Any idea where they might be available in Ahmedabad?

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by Nissan1180

A couple of parts need to be replaced. The RHS door mirror needs replacement, the side claddin on the left door pillar has to be replaced (the plastic hardened and broke off )
I really want to get those original plastic wheel covers. Couldn't find them in the old city. Any idea where they might be available in Ahmedabad?

Hello Sagin: Good to see you back on T-BHP. The door mirror, plastic cladding & Wheel Caps will be easily available at Samrat Motors at Mithakali. You can contact them on 079-26425117. Call them before you plan a visit so he will get the parts in stock for you.
Paint job seems good but need to see detailed pictures of the parts which have been worked on.
Also can't figure out which shade of white you have chosen. Seems like 'Classic White'. Is the paint 2K? What was the total cost?

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by Scarlet_Rider

Will try and post the pictures some time over the weekend.

Originally Posted by ilangop

A link for performance camshafts for Nissan A12.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Now you know that many mechanics don't know what they are doing.

Dear All,
I need some help on the fuel line routing as I can’t find any reference for that. For the Hitachi Carburetor model, there are 2 lines going from the top of the fuel tank. The one on the left (towards cabin) leads to the fuel pump. I am confused as to where the other line (towards tail pipe) leads to. I think it leads to the small opening behind the rear bumper.
HELP

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

The one on the left (towards cabin) leads to the fuel pump. I am confused as to where the other line (towards tail pipe) leads to. I think it leads to the small opening behind the rear bumper.

The other end of the hose that you have mentioned is just left open to atmosphere.

[Scarlet_Rider]

Saw this NE in a pathetic condition a few days back. Irony is that it is parked in front of a famous orthopedic hospital and is being used as an advertising board for a gym in the area! The rear boot was padlocked! Must have some treasure in it!

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Hi Rahul,
Can I get the wiring diagram from your manual. Also still waiting for the differential section.
Thanks.

Was busy at office all these days and now I am out of the city for a couple of weeks. Will try to post these some time this month end.

Regards and Keep Revving,

Rahul Waghmare.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by ilangop

The other end of the hose that you have mentioned is just left open to atmosphere.

If that is the case, then cars with Mikuni should have 3 holes atop the tank; one that goes to the fuel pump, one works as a return and the 3rd open to atmosphere (actually it should lead to the small hole behind rear bumper otherwise the boot will smell of petrol !).
I have seen cars with Mikuni but there are only 2 holes atop the tank. Why so?

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

If that is the case, then cars with Mikuni should have 3 holes atop the tank; one that goes to the fuel pump, one works as a return and the 3rd open to atmosphere (actually it should lead to the small hole behind rear bumper otherwise the boot will smell of petrol !).
I have seen cars with Mikuni but there are only 2 holes atop the tank. Why so?

Hi vaidya,
I think you have looked at the Mikuni carb, operted with the mechanical pump and Vapor separator. Though I have seen this system in older NEs I vaguely remember the fuel plumbing, yet I am sure that the NE which my dad has years ago had a mechanical pump, vapor separator and only 2 ports from the fuel tank. My NE has an electric fuel pump and fuel sender unit has 3 ports as you had mentioned above.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by ilangop

My NE has an electric fuel pump and fuel sender unit has 3 ports as you had mentioned above.

That's right Ilangop, the car had a mechanical pump. As I am going to install an electronic pump, i will need to braze another hole in the tank for a return line from the vapour separator. Can I see a picture of the fuel tank top of your car to get a better understanding?
Thanks.

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

That's right Ilangop, the car had a mechanical pump. As I am going to install an electronic pump, i will need to braze another hole in the tank for a return line from the vapour separator. Can I see a picture of the fuel tank top of your car to get a better understanding?
Thanks.

Vaidya,
Well, then you can even get rid of the vapor separator and have a fuel return line. I assume that you have a Mikuni carb installed in your car. The problem is you need a 3 port fuel level sender unit. But brazing is not the only solution. Look for a 118NE sender that comes with 3 ports and replace with the new part. Problem solved.
PS: Will have to click a picture of the sender. Shall upload later, meanwhile if some one else can help, please post a picture of the same.