[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by ilangop

I assume that you have a Mikuni carb installed in your car. The problem is you need a 3 port fuel level sender unit. But brazing is not the only solution. Look for a 118NE sender that comes with 3 ports and replace with the new part. Problem solved.

Mine has a Hitachi Carburetor & at present there is no vapour separator in the line. What I plan to do (as instructed by Behrambhai), is to install an electronic fuel pump in the boot followed by two vapour separators. One will be next to the pump and the other will be next to the carburetor. Both separators will have a different return line that goes back to the tank. So Two holes for the return lines (I was told not to fit a 'T' due to too much vapour), one for the pump inlet and one line open to atmosphere. So total four holes on top
What is the sender you have mentioned? How does that look?

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Mine has a Hitachi Carburetor & at present there is no vapour separator in the line. What I plan to do (as instructed by Behrambhai), is to install an electronic fuel pump in the boot followed by two vapour separators. One will be next to the pump and the other will be next to the carburetor. Both separators will have a different return line that goes back to the tank. So Two holes for the return lines (I was told not to fit a 'T' due to too much vapour), one for the pump inlet and one line open to atmosphere. So total four holes on top
What is the sender you have mentioned? How does that look?

Hi Vaidya,
Good if BD sir has advised then go with his idea. The sender unit is the same think on which you plan to braze 2 extra ports for this sort of plumbing. The sender unit sends the fuel level signal to the instrument cluster.
BD Sir,
Can he still use the existing system, install T joints but with non-return valves?

[KkVaidya]

Since long I have been thinking about asking other owners about this gap between the exhaust manifold and the Pipe. Its been there since the beginning. Is this deliberate or could have been changed somewhere during the exhaust pipe overhaul !!

[ilangop]

Hi,
Has someone physically measured the hub dia of the fornt & rear wheels of a 118NE. Following are the observations in my car.
1. The front hub has a step and only the outer step corresponds to 58.1 mm dia (the standard FIAT hub dia). The inner step where the rim actually gets seated measured about 58.8 mm or even more.
2. The rear hub measured somewhere around 59mm approximately, while it is supposed to masure only 58 mm (Again as per internet info regarding the rim & hub sizes of Fiat 124 cars)
If someone can measure the same in your car and share the info, would be nice. Also if there is a reason behind this kindly put up in this forum for the knowledge of everyone.

[ilangop]

Dear Experts,
Off late my NEs radiator cap leaks a little when warm. I can replace the rubber gasket alone or the whole cap itself. In the case that I can replace the cap itself I would like to know the pressure rating for the cap. Please help in this regard.
-Ilango

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by ilangop

Dear Experts,
Off late my NEs radiator cap leaks a little when warm. I can replace the rubber gasket alone or the whole cap itself. In the case that I can replace the cap itself I would like to know the pressure rating for the cap. Please help in this regard.
-Ilango

Don't know the pressure rating but its easily available. I just replaced mine, its a 'Tecil' brand cap. As far as I know, M800 (type II) cap would be a straight fit.

[samsag12]

Originally Posted by ilangop

Dear Experts,
Off late my NEs radiator cap leaks a little when warm. I can replace the rubber gasket alone or the whole cap itself. In the case that I can replace the cap itself I would like to know the pressure rating for the cap. Please help in this regard.
-Ilango

IIRC the pressure rating for 118NE is 11psi (which is 0.9 kg/cm2). Also as per the experts only Tecil or RD make ones do the job, others are just dhakkan.

[KkVaidya]

Off-late the ignition switch was giving me troubles. Initially I thought there is some problem in the distributor but then routed the problem to the JAY make ignition switch (famous for its unreliability).
I could not find a new switch here - could be because I was skeptcial to buy another JAY switch which is bound to give problem in a few years. I found an original switch for the FIAT 124 in USA & luckily a relative was coming here so got a brand new switch in 10 days flat (power of the internet you say).
Its actually a LADA make switch (attached pic) which is common with the Fiat. Thanks PAL that they retained some of the Fiat design parts otherwise it would be impossible to find replacements.
Funny part is that I thought of giving the old switch a re-look so cleaned the back connections with WD40. Also sprayed some inside the switch and VOILA. Now its working - Could be the old one got jealous seeing its 'firangi' replacement

[ilangop]

@ Sagar & Vaidya: Thanks guys for sharing the info. Managed to find a 0.9PSi rated cap.
@ Vaidya: Nice buy, you lucky chap. Yes the Jay switch in mine once shut off by itself right in front of our company gate while there was long queue of co-employees behind me. Somehow shaking the wires a little brought the car back to life and helped clearing the crowd.
I think, all the heavy loads from the key switch could be routed through a couple of high current relays to prolong the remaining life of the existing switch.

[samsag12]

Ilango can you share which make cap you purchased. The PP S1 cap too is rated 0.9Psi hence inquiring. I may need a couple of them. I hope NE ones are a direct fit.

[Scarlet_Rider]

Yes, the pressure rating for the NE's radiator cap is 0.8 kg/cm2, which is approximately 12 psi. Here is the data from the service manual and a picture.

[Scarlet_Rider]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Off-late the ignition switch was giving me troubles. I found an original switch for the FIAT 124 in USA & luckily a relative was coming here so got a brand new switch in 10 days flat (power of the internet you say).

Great news! Congrats on acquiring the Fiat 124 switch! Ensure that you get the existing wiring checked from an electrician who knows his job. All loads should be connected through relays to ensure good service from the ignition switch. PMP make relays are good.

Originally Posted by ilangop

I think, all the heavy loads from the key switch could be routed through a couple of high current relays to prolong the remaining life of the existing switch.

This is how the wiring should be. Many electricians take short cuts and connect the load directly causing heavy current to pass through the ignition switch which reduces it's life and can cause embarrassing situations at times. When we got the PPL Viceroy, we were shocked to see that the AC wiring was not connected through the relay! My father immediately checked all the wiring in the car and ensured that relays were used wherever applicable.

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

I need some help on the fuel line routing as I can’t find any reference for that.

Here are pictures of the Fuel, Exhaust and Emission Control Systems section from the 118 NE service manual. More sections to follow later.

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by Scarlet_Rider

Here are pictures of the Fuel, Exhaust and Emission Control Systems section from the 118 NE service manual. More sections to follow later.

Hi Rahul, Thanks for the detailed post on Fuel, intake & Enhaust system. 1. Anyways I would like to know if the carb detailed here is a Htachi one or the Mikuni one.
2. Also is there any detailing on the evaporative emissions from the fuel tank, and the logic how it functions.
3. Is there anywhere he value of resistance of the thermistor (in cooling system) mentioned? Need the values at warm & cool conditions.

I remember seeing a flap supported by a small mass right at the start of the exhaust pipe flange. Could some one elaborate a little on this system & the significance of the weight? I understand that there has been some deisgn effort & engineering behind such a device, still just wanted to know if we get a free flow exhaust by removing the mass.

-Ilango

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by ilangop

I remember seeing a flap supported by a small mass right at the start of the exhaust pipe flange. Could some one elaborate a little on this system & the significance of the weight?
-Ilango

I don't know exactly but it is something related to hot air being fed to the engine for quick warm-up. Something like a quick warm-up valve.
I expect Mr. Behram Dhabhar to explain in detail about that. Or if Scarlet_Rider can again share his Precious Workshop manual ?

[Scarlet_Rider]

Originally Posted by ilangop

1. I would like to know if the carb detailed here is a Htachi one or the Mikuni one.

The carb detailed in the 118 NE service manual is Hitachi. For details on the Mikuni carb, please check the following post on page 15 of this thread. Those pages are from the Maruti Zen (MH410) workshop manual.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/indian...ml#post2325591

Originally Posted by ilangop

2. Also is there any detailing on the evaporative emissions from the fuel tank, and the logic how it functions.

There is no mention of this in the service manual. Probably the manual that we have must be an old version. Also I remember you explaining the working of the above system on the Fiat 1100 Technical Info thread.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/post-w...ml#post2347039

Originally Posted by ilangop

3. Is there anywhere he value of resistance of the thermistor (in cooling system) mentioned? Need the values at warm & cool conditions.

The thermostat mentioned in the service manual we have is the wax pellet type consisting of a vessel of pellet form filled with pulverised crystals. The valve operates by the thermal expansion of these crystals. The details of this thermostat can be seen on the first image of the post where I put the details of the radiator cap.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/indian...ml#post2645911

Originally Posted by ilangop

I remember seeing a flap supported by a small mass right at the start of the exhaust pipe flange. Could some one elaborate a little on this system & the significance of the weight? I understand that there has been some deisgn effort & engineering behind such a device, still just wanted to know if we get a free flow exhaust by removing the mass.

Are you referring the PCV valve mentioned on pages 15 and 16 of the Fuel, Exhaust and Emission Control Systems section? Please post a picture about the same so that I can check.

Regards and Keep Revving,

Rahul Waghmare.