The Premier 118 NE thread

KkVaidya · 31st July 2012, 19:28

Can anyone help me on where to locate the engine temperature sensor? I seriously doubt either the temperature gauge in the instrument cluster or the sensor from which it senses is not working

ilangop · 1st August 2012, 16:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Can anyone help me on where to locate the engine temperature sensor? I seriously doubt either the temperature gauge in the instrument cluster or the sensor from which it senses is not working

The sensor is located close to the spark plug of the 1st cylinder. It has a brass housing with only 1 wire connected to it.
1. To test the meter side, you have to pull out the connector from the sensor and connect it to ground. With ign key in the ON position, the Temperature needle should point to the max.
2. You need a multimeter to test the sensor. At normal ambient temperature of about 30 to 40 degree the resistance across the sensor output pin and battery -ve (not +ve) should somewhere between 1000 Ohm - 500 Ohm. Not sure about the trend curve.

ilangop · 4th August 2012, 17:16

Dear all,
With concerns over the use of aerosol based substances, automotive OEMs have been using R134A as the refrigerent in the cabin cooling systems. This increases scarcity of R12 and many a times we tend to refill the system with R134A. Here is an article about the adverse effects on a compressor designed for R12 but running with R134A.
Sanden AC Compressor Converting To R134A

-Ilango

Scarlet_Rider · 5th August 2012, 11:34

Thanks for the details Ilango! Correct me if I am wrong. In a nutshell, if R134a is being used instead of R-12, ideally the entire compressor needs to be replaced, but if one wants to continue with the old compressor, then the compressor's lubricant needs to be replaced, although the wear and tear will remain. Right?

ilangop · 6th August 2012, 10:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scarlet_Rider

Thanks for the details Ilango! Correct me if I am wrong. In a nutshell, if R134a is being used instead of R-12, ideally the entire compressor needs to be replaced, but if one wants to continue with the old compressor, then the compressor's lubricant needs to be replaced, although the wear and tear will remain. Right?

Bro, thats what even I understand from the notes. Else I guess, you can grab a R134A compressor from an Esteem or Indica from the scrap yard, swap the pulley from NE compressor and run it. I haven't tried this though, just seems like a feasible option.
-Ilango

Scarlet_Rider · 6th August 2012, 10:44

Good idea Ilango! Need to check how cost effective it would be since our car does one long trip (1500-2000 kms) once a year and apart from that it's only a weekend car. If we don't go out on one weekend, it then is not used again for another week! Hence with a car having an annual run of 5000-7000 kms, we need to check the cost effectiveness though ultimately one fine day the change would be inevitable.

Scarlet_Rider · 25th August 2012, 18:31

Hello Folks,

Found this product catalogue on Ucal's website : www.ucalfuel.com

Was curious to know the difference between the various carburettors used on the NE and the various Maruti Suzuki cars. Apart from the original NE carburettor, which other ones would fit on the NE directly and give provide better power.

Regards and Keep Revving,

Rahul Waghmare.

mycarhasablower · 2nd October 2012, 22:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by anjan_c2007

Those were the days when the threesome ruled. This is from IAJ, June 1991- the cover picture, the tech specs comparison and the things under the bonnet of the three cars.

Attachment 947602

Attachment 947600

Attachment 947601

Anjan, could you scan and post the rest of the article as well? would love to read the comparo. i already have the contessa and a 96 esteem and there are plans to get an ne on the horizon

ilangop · 29th October 2012, 11:12

Friends who dont have a soft / hard copy of 118NE's engine service literature can download this.
http://www.datsun510.com/manuals/Wor...dan_Pickup.pdf
The file is about 12MB in size.
-Ilango

KkVaidya · 29th October 2012, 13:52

I have a soft copy of the Haynes Datsun 1200 workshop manual for the A12 engine. Anybody who wants one can PM me their email address.

Regards.

ilangop · 7th November 2012, 14:53

Hi all,
I am looking for the T-joint used in LPG conversion to supply hot water into the evaporator. I am not finding one in Pimpri. If anyone has a spare or can source me a new one through your known circles, that would be a timely help indeed. Need the part circled in red. Thanks in advance.
-Ilango

Scarlet_Rider · 26th November 2012, 11:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by ilangop

Need the part circled in red.

Ilango,

The joint that you have highlighted in the picture of our car above is not readymade. It was made using a GI pipe 4" long. A hole was drilled on it's wall and a brass nozzle (available at LPG stores) was brazed on to it.

Regards and Keep Revving,

Rahul Waghmare.

ilangop · 28th November 2012, 07:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scarlet_Rider

Ilango,

The joint that you have highlighted in the picture of our car above is not readymade. It was made using a GI pipe 4" long. A hole was drilled on it's wall and a brass nozzle (available at LPG stores) was brazed on to it.

Thanks for the info bro, but what was the dia of the pipe used? What was done to give a bulge at the end so that the hoses fit snuggly.
-Ilango

KkVaidya · 1st December 2012, 13:53

ENGINE NOT HEATING UP QUICKLY
Off late I have observed that the engine is taking too long to heat-up. The temperature gauge hardly flicks and moves up after half an hour of running. The ambient temperature is at around 15-30deg C. I remember this was not a problem earlier but don’t know since when it has started behaving like this. Problem is not the temperature gauge but the lethargy of the engine when cold. Once heated up, it works fine. I have checked below points but I am still pondering about the reason:
1. Thermostat removed & checked for working in hot water. Works perfect.
2. Changed from the NGK Iridium plugs to normal plugs (NGK BP5ES) with 0.9mm clearance
3. Tappet Valve Clearance checked to 0.25mm at dead cold
4. Ignition Timing checked to 7deg BTDC. Dwell angle at 55deg & point gap at 0.50mm.
5. I had changed the radiator fan some years back as the OE blades got chipped. Currently it is a 4 blade fan from the Padmini.
6. Using Engine oil of Grade 20W-50

Is there any other point I have missed & that is causing this cold behavior?

dsmatharu · 1st December 2012, 23:41

Hello KK,

Even i have experienced the same with my NE.
Since my drive had been a short distance - this became all the more frustrating.

The only solution it seem's in my opinion is to have 'wet glow plugs' at the
plumbing for coolant inlet to the engine - these will heat the coolant to warm
up the engine faster from a cold start - and would need a cut-off.

Request inputs/comments from gurus !!!!

31st July 2012, 19:28	#451
KkVaidya BHPian Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Ahmedabad Posts: 931 Thanked: 760 Times View My Garage	Re: The Premier 118 NE thread Can anyone help me on where to locate the engine temperature sensor? I seriously doubt either the temperature gauge in the instrument cluster or the sensor from which it senses is not working
	() Thanks

4th August 2012, 17:16	#453
ilangop BHPian Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Chennai Posts: 992 Thanked: 903 Times View My Garage	R134A refrigerent in an R12 System Dear all, With concerns over the use of aerosol based substances, automotive OEMs have been using R134A as the refrigerent in the cabin cooling systems. This increases scarcity of R12 and many a times we tend to refill the system with R134A. Here is an article about the adverse effects on a compressor designed for R12 but running with R134A. Sanden AC Compressor Converting To R134A -Ilango Attached Thumbnails
	(1) Thanks

5th August 2012, 11:34	#454
Scarlet_Rider BHPian Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Hyderabad Posts: 830 Thanked: 1,657 Times	Re: The Premier 118 NE thread Thanks for the details Ilango! Correct me if I am wrong. In a nutshell, if R134a is being used instead of R-12, ideally the entire compressor needs to be replaced, but if one wants to continue with the old compressor, then the compressor's lubricant needs to be replaced, although the wear and tear will remain. Right?
	() Thanks

6th August 2012, 10:44	#456
Scarlet_Rider BHPian Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Hyderabad Posts: 830 Thanked: 1,657 Times	Re: The Premier 118 NE thread Good idea Ilango! Need to check how cost effective it would be since our car does one long trip (1500-2000 kms) once a year and apart from that it's only a weekend car. If we don't go out on one weekend, it then is not used again for another week! Hence with a car having an annual run of 5000-7000 kms, we need to check the cost effectiveness though ultimately one fine day the change would be inevitable.
	() Thanks

25th August 2012, 18:31	#457
Scarlet_Rider BHPian Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Hyderabad Posts: 830 Thanked: 1,657 Times	Re: The Premier 118 NE thread Hello Folks, Found this product catalogue on Ucal's website : www.ucalfuel.com Was curious to know the difference between the various carburettors used on the NE and the various Maruti Suzuki cars. Apart from the original NE carburettor, which other ones would fit on the NE directly and give provide better power. Regards and Keep Revving, Rahul Waghmare. Attached Thumbnails
	() Thanks

29th October 2012, 11:12	#459
ilangop BHPian Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Chennai Posts: 992 Thanked: 903 Times View My Garage	Nissan A12 / Datsun 1200 Engine Service Manual Friends who dont have a soft / hard copy of 118NE's engine service literature can download this. http://www.datsun510.com/manuals/Wor...dan_Pickup.pdf The file is about 12MB in size. -Ilango
	(2) Thanks

29th October 2012, 13:52	#460
KkVaidya BHPian Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Ahmedabad Posts: 931 Thanked: 760 Times View My Garage	Re: The Premier 118 NE thread I have a soft copy of the Haynes Datsun 1200 workshop manual for the A12 engine. Anybody who wants one can PM me their email address. Regards.
	(1) Thanks

7th November 2012, 14:53	#461
ilangop BHPian Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Chennai Posts: 992 Thanked: 903 Times View My Garage	Need a water diverter T joint Hi all, I am looking for the T-joint used in LPG conversion to supply hot water into the evaporator. I am not finding one in Pimpri. If anyone has a spare or can source me a new one through your known circles, that would be a timely help indeed. Need the part circled in red. Thanks in advance. -Ilango Attached Thumbnails
	() Thanks

1st December 2012, 13:53	#464
KkVaidya BHPian Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Ahmedabad Posts: 931 Thanked: 760 Times View My Garage	Re: The Premier 118 NE thread ENGINE NOT HEATING UP QUICKLY Off late I have observed that the engine is taking too long to heat-up. The temperature gauge hardly flicks and moves up after half an hour of running. The ambient temperature is at around 15-30deg C. I remember this was not a problem earlier but don’t know since when it has started behaving like this. Problem is not the temperature gauge but the lethargy of the engine when cold. Once heated up, it works fine. I have checked below points but I am still pondering about the reason: 1. Thermostat removed & checked for working in hot water. Works perfect. 2. Changed from the NGK Iridium plugs to normal plugs (NGK BP5ES) with 0.9mm clearance 3. Tappet Valve Clearance checked to 0.25mm at dead cold 4. Ignition Timing checked to 7deg BTDC. Dwell angle at 55deg & point gap at 0.50mm. 5. I had changed the radiator fan some years back as the OE blades got chipped. Currently it is a 4 blade fan from the Padmini. 6. Using Engine oil of Grade 20W-50 Is there any other point I have missed & that is causing this cold behavior? Last edited by KkVaidya : 1st December 2012 at 14:05.
	() Thanks

1st December 2012, 23:41	#465
dsmatharu BHPian Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Pune Posts: 53 Thanked: 20 Times	Re: The Premier 118 NE thread Hello KK, Even i have experienced the same with my NE. Since my drive had been a short distance - this became all the more frustrating. The only solution it seem's in my opinion is to have 'wet glow plugs' at the plumbing for coolant inlet to the engine - these will heat the coolant to warm up the engine faster from a cold start - and would need a cut-off. Request inputs/comments from gurus !!!!
	() Thanks