Quote:
Originally Posted by Gansan In my car the central locking is after market (MGA) installed at my MASS. The doors lock once the speed crosses 20 KMPH and unlock once the engine stops. We can also unlock manually using the lift up knob, even when the engine is running.
Scary to think whether this can get jammed due to a short circuit and not allow manual opening. Must check with MSM people about it's working. If it is possible to disengage central locking before starting out and re-engage while parking the car, it would be nice. |
In my humble opinion, this is one of the much
safer designs of the door locking mechanism, which enables one to get out even when there is no electrical power or when there is an electrical short circuit due to fire or other reasons. The only design that is safer than this is not to have electrical central locking at all, but only manual mechanical locking/unlocking for each of the doors (like how it was during the days of the Ambassador & Padmini).
Let's break it down. Your car left the factory with a completely mechanical manual lock-unlock system for each of the doors, which happens to be the
safest in my book (as mentioned in the previous paragraph).
The dealership then put in electrical actuators into each of the four doors, and then linked it to a controller which can unlock/lock all doors when the relevant button on the remote is pressed etc. All of this draws power from the car's battery.
In other words, the locking mechanism is purely mechanical, with an
electrical assist system put in place in each door for the remote locking system. Even if the electrical assist system fails completely (due to whatever reason), the underlying mechanical system would still remain operational.
When the electrical assist system has failed, it may require a bit more force (than normal) to open or lock a door, that's all. The mechanical system is still the one that locks and unlocks the doors, and it should be operational even if the electrical assist is taken away. (This can be compared to the power-assisted steering or vacuum booster-assisted brake pedal requiring more force to operate when the engine is not running).
One more thing to be noted is that the driver's door lock lever may require
more force to operate than the other doors when the central locking system doesn't work, as it's the one that has the master actuator (locks/unlocks all doors). The front passenger door and rear door levers may require only the normal force, or at most a very small bit extra, but
much less force than the driver's door lever. (Of course, in cars where both the front doors have master actuators, the rear door lock levers would require much less force than the front ones).
I'm willing to bet that your car's door locks would still work and the lock-unlock levers would still remain operational (may require extra force for the driver's door only) when the central locking system fails, due to whatever reason.
One way to test this:
1) Pull out the bonnet/hood release lever
2) Lower the front & rear windows on the driver's side of the car completely
3) Take out the key, close the doors and press the lock button on the remote
4) Open the bonnet/hood, and disconnect the battery
5) After this, try unlocking and opening the driver's door from the inside,
through the open window*
6) Then try unlocking and opening the rear door from the inside,
through the open window*
I believe both the doors on your car can be unlocked and opened through the windows quite easily. The driver's door lock lever may require some extra force to unlock, but the rear door (and other doors) most probably wouldn't.
If one is able to unlock & open the doors in such a test situation, then the door locking mechanism is of
sound engineering design.
If one is not able to open the doors in such a test situation, then the manufacturer or accessory maker must be taken to task and forced to change their lousy, untrustworthy & horrible engineering design (that could possibly endanger lives).
* - Some cars may have a power window roll up mechanism when the car is locked, either as a factory fitment, or as an aftermarket accessory. In such cases, the assistance of a second person is required, by making him/her sit inside the car and test the door levers after the battery has been disconnected.
Extreme caution is advised when testing such cars, and one should
not use a child for the purpose.
P.S.: Whatever be the door locking mechanism on one's car, I always advocate keeping a window-breaking tool, seatbelt-cutter and a fire extinguisher in an easily accessible location in the car, and training everyone on how to use them. Previous posters have provided information on such tools, and where to get them.