[Swarup5]

Originally Posted by nTorq

Folks, can anyone who has got an underbody coating done, answer this, please?

Does the underbody coating reduce the sound of smal pebbles and grains of sand hitting the wheel-well when driving? The lack of insulation in the wheel-wells is one of the points of complaints in the HC5G, and I was wondering if the underbody coating would do anything to reduce the sound of sand and pebbles hitting this area.

Agree on the lack of insulation in wheel arches. I'm planning to get the damping sheets and stick them on the internal area inside the cabin where we see the wheel arches .

Followed by,

Underbody and wheel arches coating during my next service. The Honda service centre uses Wurth products here, hopefully, they turn out well.

[manish84]

I was close to buying the Honda City ZX CVT but then I took the second test drive. This time there was so much cabin noise that I have now decided to drop City from consideration. Is noise a known issue as mentioned in several post about lack of insulation in wheel arches? Also, the 4000+ rpm sound levels are way above the sweet sound of petrol engine. It is very boomy and disturbing. Do others feel the same? My SA kept saying that the TD car had a few accidents and hence the doors are not insulating the noise fully.

[Latheesh]

Originally Posted by manish84

Also, the 4000+ rpm sound levels are way above the sweet sound of petrol engine. It is very boomy and disturbing. Do others feel the same? My SA kept saying that the TD car had a few accidents and hence the doors are not insulating the noise fully.

True. I took it to the service center couple of times to check the same. They checked and said everything is fine. It is disturbing if you do not have music on.

[Swarup5]

Originally Posted by manish84

I was close to buying the Honda City ZX CVT but then I took the second test drive. This time there was so much cabin noise that I have now decided to drop City from consideration. Is noise a known issue as mentioned in several post about lack of insulation in wheel arches? Also, the 4000+ rpm sound levels are way above the sweet sound of petrol engine. It is very boomy and disturbing. Do others feel the same? My SA kept saying that the TD car had a few accidents and hence the doors are not insulating the noise fully.

GTOs observation from official thread

"Sounds awesome at high revs. Very addictive aural soundtrack (including intake noise). I’d get a free-flow from Automech too. Honda petrol sounds the best with a deep free-flow exhaust."

The sound note is certainly on the edge of getting termed as noisy. For me personally, I feel it is slightly on the sporty note.

Having said that, we need to keep in mind that iVTEC is known for the dual nature of the engine. Satisfying both sedate drivers and enthusiastic ones alike. You need to either drive it gently or pedal to the metal, else the mid-range is a boring place for the 1.5 NA DOHC unit , even more so because of the lack of a turbo . Accelerate heavily, gain speed and cruise in 2k rev range, or accelerate smoothly and reach the speed eventually .

[Shreyans_Jain]

Originally Posted by manish84

I was close to buying the Honda City ZX CVT but then I took the second test drive. This time there was so much cabin noise that I have now decided to drop City from consideration. Is noise a known issue as mentioned in several post about lack of insulation in wheel arches? Also, the 4000+ rpm sound levels are way above the sweet sound of petrol engine. It is very boomy and disturbing. Do others feel the same? My SA kept saying that the TD car had a few accidents and hence the doors are not insulating the noise fully.

Two things

1. The engine does get noisy when revved, an effect that gets compounded with the trigger happy CVT. Manual fares better. Depending on your mood, you can find it enthusiastic or disturbing.

2. Overall insulation levels are nothing great. You’ll hear plenty of outside sounds. Road noise is very prominent. Every piece of stone or gravel hitting the wheels wells makes its presence felt as there is no cladding. The boot acts as a resonance chamber and makes everything feel a bit louder for the rear passengers.

These are hard facts that every prospective City buyer should know. Overall NVH is the worst in the price range. despite the generally refined engine.

[nTorq]

Originally Posted by manish84

I was close to buying the Honda City ZX CVT but then I took the second test drive. This time there was so much cabin noise that I have now decided to drop City from consideration. Is noise a known issue as mentioned in several post about lack of insulation in wheel arches? Also, the 4000+ rpm sound levels are way above the sweet sound of petrol engine. It is very boomy and disturbing. Do others feel the same? My SA kept saying that the TD car had a few accidents and hence the doors are not insulating the noise fully.

If you liked everything else in the car, then there is the acoustics solution from 3M that you can go for. They basically do a door damping with 3M material, and it costs around 7k. This, in addition to the underbody coating should reduce the noise quite a bit. Better tyres may lead to even lesser road noise.

The engine is very silent under 2.5k RPM, but beyond that it does get a bit noisy. But like Shreyans mentioned above, whether or not I find it irritating completely depends on the mood that I’m in!

[manish84]

Originally Posted by Latheesh

True. I took it to the service center couple of times to check the same. They checked and said everything is fine. It is disturbing if you do not have music on.

I agree. Second TD we both got a headache as I tried to redline the engine a few times to test the VTEC.

Originally Posted by Swarup5

GTOs observation from official thread

"Sounds awesome at high revs. Very addictive aural soundtrack (including intake noise). I’d get a free-flow from Automech too. Honda petrol sounds the best with a deep free-flow exhaust."

The sound note is certainly on the edge of getting termed as noisy. For me personally, I feel it is slightly on the sporty note.

Yeah, I guess it comes down to personal preference. My GT also used to give the sweet engine high revv noise. But that sounded much more pleasant to me. City engine boom feels like I am pushing the engine to abnormal levels whereas the revv is just about 4-5000.

Originally Posted by Shreyans_Jain

These are hard facts that every prospective City buyer should know. Overall NVH is the worst in the price range. despite the generally refined engine.

I agree. I was just wondering why is this not talked enough on City thread. Maybe I missed it but I never read about this issue being a deal breaker.

Originally Posted by nTorq

If you liked everything else in the car, then there is the acoustics solution from 3M that you can go for. They basically do a door damping with 3M material, and it costs around 7k. This, in addition to the underbody coating should reduce the noise quite a bit. Better tyres may lead to even lesser road noise.

True and even with all this extra expenses, City would still be most VFM car in today's market. On paper the package is perfect. It is only when you push it a little you realise the NVH issues. I am not comfortable with opening panels and refitting them in a brand new factory fitted car.

So long, City!

[Swarup5]

Few updates that I have been doing on my car. Working on the unfinished bits by dear Honda.

Summary
- Sound damping is a must on the otherwise flimsily built door sheets.
- Audio system upgrades have made a huge improvement in audio quality.
- Lighting upgrades with better quality halogens have made a big difference, especially on High beams.
- Cabin lights now on LED makes a better illumination overall during the night.

Note: No wires cut, no warranty issues. All plug and play upgrades.

Sound Insulation:
Enough has been said and ranted on the thread for the lack of proper insulation. Road noise is now muted for most of the part, I can just hear Horns and a few other loud vehicles ( like city ).
What has also improved as a result of sound damping is the audio quality and the proper thud feeling of a german luxury car.
Costed me around 7K including installation on all 4 doors ( 2.5 sheets of STP per door 2.0mm thick).

Overall a very welcome upgrade, I now feel peaceful in traffic and have a very silent cabin on highway cruising. The engine roar in mid-range is still evident, however, reduced significantly.
Tyre noise is present however reduced marginally by around 30% or less.






- Audio quality
This certainly wasn't a planned upgrade, however when performing the damping I just had a look at the stock speakers. TBH they seem to be a flimsy and cheap set of magnets, to say the least. No wonder the sound is meek and lifeless on the stock setup. I then explored a few options and taking suggestions from fellow audio experts in my network, got the JL audio Coaxials . Must say the audio now sounds multitudes better than on the stock. Hope the video below does justice to what it offers. Not the loudness, however, I can clearly hear the instruments and clarity of lows, highs and mid ranges are just way better than stock.

After Upgrade

Stock speakers are these sets of tins .


Upgraded to these


Headlights and cabin lights
Felt the need for an upgrade when I started driving this new car during rains. Both low and high beams felt like they were just not lighting up the road sufficiently.
The upgraded Osrams halogens are a tinge towards whitish colour, however not close to the 6500K of the LED but somewhere in the 5000K range. Road illuminates much better now.

Used Osram NB laser Next-gen H7 and HB3 and swapped with the stock ( DIY stuff and takes less than 15 mins in total)

Low beams could still be better, but more for the future.

Post upgrade




Cabin lights and number plate illumination had to get an upgrade, hence got the T10 Osram led. Again plug and play DIY stuff. Does light up the cabin way better than the stock yellow lights.

Totally 3 T10 bulbs were used.



2 T10 for the number plates have made it look more premium.One pleasant side effect is that the rear camera has become slightly better during nighttime ( thanks to the led on the number plate).




Cheers!

[nTorq]

Originally Posted by Swarup5

Few updates that I have been doing on my car. Working on the unfinished bits by dear Honda.

Summary
- Sound damping is a must on the otherwise flimsily built door sheets.
- Audio system upgrades have made a huge improvement in audio quality.
- Lighting upgrades with better quality halogens have made a big difference, especially on High beams.
- Cabin lights now on LED makes a better illumination overall during the night.

Nice updates, Swarup.

Few questions:

1. Where did you get the door damping done from?
2. Is it a single layer or double?
3. How much did the speakers cost you?
4. Did you change all 4 speakers?
5. Do you know if there is a way to add a sub-woofer to the setup?
6. Can you share the links to the lights you bought? (I use OSRAM H7 LED, 6000k, for low beam, but wanted to see if there's anything better).
7. Are the seat covers from Honda? If not, can you share details of where you got it done from, and the cost?

[Swarup5]

Originally Posted by nTorq

Nice updates, Swarup.

Few questions:

1. Where did you get the door damping done from?
2. Is it a single layer or double?
3. How much did the speakers cost you?
4. Did you change all 4 speakers?
5. Do you know if there is a way to add a sub-woofer to the setup?
6. Can you share the links to the lights you bought? (I use OSRAM H7 LED, 6000k, for low beam, but wanted to see if there's anything better).
7. Are the seat covers from Honda? If not, can you share details of where you got it done from, and the cost?

1. Got it done from a nearby accessories shop in Mysore. As long as you have a good set of damping sheets, any accessories shop would be able to do it. It's a pretty simple sticking and rolling job. Got the sheets and paid the labour charges.
2. Its double layer, 2.5 sheets per door ( HC consumes more due to lengthy doors). Totally around 10 sheets.
3. Speakers cost ~8k per pair.
4. No only the front ones changed for now. Might need to buy additional for the rear later.
5. Subwoofer can be added, however, there might be an Amplifier required which needs 3rd party cable. Wasnt comfortable getting it all done in a single shot and hampering wiring, so just got the simplest one done.
6. Osram H7 is the same I've used for low beams. Not very satisfied. However, HB3 from Osram for HighBeam has made a world of difference. Im in a dilemma on whether LED is an option for low beam without hampering the visibility during Fog and rains.
7. Yes seat covers from Honda accessories . Not as good as OEM fitment, but livable for a few years.

[Stimpy]

Hi all,
Today was my first scheduled service for my Honda City and the SA denied to do the hardwiring of my dashcam, He also said not to get it done at FNG as it will void the warranty of the vehicle.

For context I use a 70mai Pro Plus+ A500S dashcam which is connected to the 12v socket. I wanted it to be hardwired so I could use it's parking surveillance mode whenever I park my car.

Any owners that can confirm this? Or is it just Honda that denies any accessories to be fitted into the fuse box?

[AutoConsultant]

Hi all, as I am about to complete one year of ownership, my insurance is due for renewal. I would really appreciate your help in getting clarity on the following points :

1. What exactly is Honda Assure? Can't see anything like that mentioned on my policy papers. Does it mean that when you get or renew the policy from a Honda showroom you get the Honda Assure thing?

2. Iffco Tokyo is my insurer. Can I get the policy renewed online via Iffco Tokyo? Will that still give me Honda Assure privileges? Or I have to get it done via Honda showroom?

3. Following was a note from a Honda personnel :

"Note:-

If you will change the Insurance company, then your premium will be reduced, but your responsibilities will be increased at the time of claim & endorsements. At the time of claim, you have to share the Third party claim NOC with new insurance company, then they will repair your vehicle. At the time endorsement, you have to do the changes in both policies (i.e. IFFCO Tokio & new insurance company)."

What does this mean exactly and how much of a hassle is there if I change my insurer?

Need to understand this before I renew my insurance.

[sreerknair]

Originally Posted by Stimpy

Hi all,
Today was my first scheduled service for my Honda City and the SA denied to do the hardwiring of my dashcam, He also said not to get it done at FNG as it will void the warranty of the vehicle.

For context I use a 70mai Pro Plus+ A500S dashcam which is connected to the 12v socket. I wanted it to be hardwired so I could use it's parking surveillance mode whenever I park my car.

Any owners that can confirm this? Or is it just Honda that denies any accessories to be fitted into the fuse box?

Most likely what SA said is true. Honda can reasonably deny the warranty on that basis. It will be up to the dealership and Honda.

Have you tried just enabling the parking mode without hardwiring? I am using the same model front dashcam and without any hardwiring, and just using the 500mAh inbuilt battery, the camera records parking events for at least 2 days. I think it will last more than that as well. If you take the car out once in 2 to 3 days then this might work for you. I have kept the Parking Mode sensitivity to Low, so that it doesn't record almost continuously.

[Latheesh]

Originally Posted by Swarup5

2 T10 for the number plates have made it look more premium.One pleasant side effect is that the rear camera has become slightly better during nighttime ( thanks to the led on the number plate).
Cheers!

Is it possible to change without opening the boot cladding?

[Swarup5]

Originally Posted by Latheesh

Is it possible to change without opening the boot cladding?

It is not the boot cladding in fact. It opens from the outside above the number plate. Below is the process.

Removing the number plate enclosure is a 3 step process. The first pry opens the black outer cover which covers the entire area ( on the outside ), it is held by around 6 clips which are fairly easy to open.

Opening the light enclosure is a little tricky( this is similar to boot lights). There is a clip like plastic that protrudes outwards which needs to be pressed hard and opened outside. You will now have access to the light enclosure box.

The box itself has a cover that can be opened fairly easily with some force. Once inside replacing the T10s are easy.