[tantragna]

So it was not an Polio drops administering day, so the SMS was not applicable to the region where I worked. Anyways, there was regular power schedule from 3pm onwards (of this week, will have to check tomorrow for the upcoming week's power schedule. Power guys be generous for another 2 days!).

Red paint base coat work is 75% complete. One more coat on the monocoque & ready for the final PU paint coat.

Some photos of the update!

[manishalive]

Originally Posted by tantragna

So it was not an Polio drops administering day, so the SMS was not applicable to the region where I worked. Anyways, there was regular power schedule from 3pm onwards (of this week, will have to check tomorrow for the upcoming week's power schedule. Power guys be generous for another 2 days!).

Red paint base coat work is 75% complete. One more coat on the monocoque & ready for the final PU paint coat.

Some photos of the update!

Awesome Dude, the paint job has come superb. the two tone red and white is killer. I know few guys in namma bengalure who can help you in SS80 parts.

[rsquared]

Great work tantragna. The car is turning out to be a looker !

I needed a small help from people in Hyderabad. I needed to know from where can one source some small parts for the SS80.

I had an issue with my car. The gear lever had too much play and my mechanic had changed the part. Unfortunately the replaced one broke off and I am having problems ever since. Also I dont exactly know what the part is. I had a look at the service manual found in this forum, but still I was not able to make out exactly what the part is. But I suppose it is a control shaft rear boot. I have a small drawing on the part. Can someone please help me out. I am a newbie into this so I dont have much idea.

Thanks in advance
rsquared

[tantragna]

@rsquared, is the replaced part a gear guide which is placed inside the gearbox or some other part on the gear lever assly?
The gear guide is most probable part for the type of the problem you have faced & it is surely not a fibre/plastic part. The mechanic must have used it from some other source or experimented it out on your car!
Can you arrange a photo of the replaced part or if you can enquire from the mechanic who did this?
Check the photo from the SS80 I am currently working with so that you can identify it.

The red circled is the active gear shifter linkage (which is a simplified U-joint) & the blue circled is the stationery link for the gear shifter assembly.

Also such mechanical spares are available at MGP outlet / Maruti service center as the new M800 shares the same platform of mechanicals from its the predecessor SS80. I guess you can take your car to a MASS (Maruti Authorised Service Station) for a better service care for such mechanical issues. Only the body parts like, door, window panes, fender, etc., are not available at MGP (Maruti Genuine Parts).

FYI, taken from http://www.justdial.com

----------------------------------------------------
Maruti Suzuki India Ltd (Regional Office)
Mr Tapan Gosh(Regional Manager)
+(91)-(40)-66729999
+(91)-(40)-66250102
Maruti Suzuki company manufactures the best selling cars in India

Dno. 3-6-363 & 3-6-1/1,Mahavir Chambers,1st Flr, Stanza Showroom Bldg, Liberty, Hyderabad - 500029

Also Listed In: Car Part Manufacturers | Car Part Manufacturers-Maruti | Car Manufacturers-Maruti
-----------------------------------------------------
Maruti Motors
Mr Charan Jeet Singh
+(91)-(40)-23236783, 65502072

Shop 18 Tirumala Complex, Skyline Road, Basheerbagh, Hyderabad - 500029

Also Listed In: Car Accessory Dealers-Maruti | Car Part Dealers-Maruti | Automobile Accessory Dealers

-----------------------------------------------------
Maruti Car Care
Mr Srinivas Reddy V,Mr Prabhakar Reedy C
+(91)-(40)-24043732

3-126/1, Near E Seva, Vikas Nagar, Dilsukhnagar, Hyderabad - 500036

Also Listed In: Car Repairs & Services-Maruti | Automobile Repair & Service | Automobiles Garages Service Centres

[rsquared]

Thanks a ton tantragna. I guess it is the red circled part (active gear shifter linkage) that is in question here. I went under my car and took a snap of the part. It is definitely a fiber part. I guess my mechanic would have used some quick fix. Anyways I have attached the pic. Can you please confirm the same.

Thanks in advance
rsquared

[Stanher]

Originally Posted by rsquared

I needed a small help from people in Hyderabad. I needed to know from where can one source some small parts for the SS80.

RS Motors, MG road, Secunderabad should be stocking such parts with them. Also can try with Prabhat Motors, Afzulgunj.

[tantragna]

Originally Posted by rsquared

Thanks a ton tantragna. I guess it is the red circled part (active gear shifter linkage) that is in question here. I went under my car and took a snap of the part. It is definitely a fiber part. I guess my mechanic would have used some quick fix. Anyways I have attached the pic. Can you please confirm the same.

Thanks in advance
rsquared

Yes, that is the same part which I had rounded in red (in earlier post) & it is definitely a metal part (which is oem). Get it replaced with a genuine spare from the newer M800 (4speed), it should fit in without any issues. Better carry the older spare along with you to comparison.

I notice oil leakage, if you happen to spot any oil spills at pit stops / overnight halts get it checked as it can damage the mechanicals like gears, bearings, etc.,
And I also notice a lots of rusting on the platform below surface, get it treated before you loose it. As I told you that body parts are not available in the market for replacement. I had tough time in fabricating with sheet metal, but not upto the standards of the original. So better hurry up, remember the quote 'RUST NEVER SLEEPS!'

NOTE:
If you notice hard to scrub or deeper rusts you can use ortho-phosporic acid, which acts as rust converter. I found it in a chemicals dealer in a nearby industrial estate. It costed me INR.250/- for 2 liters, which was given to me as ready to use (not dilution reqd) colourless, sweet odour liquid which was as viscous as coconut oil. It converts red rust (active rust) to black (inactive) rust in 24hrs. A anti rust coating like primer & paint/pitch can be applied after the oxidation of the rust is done with a gap of 24hrs after application of the phosphoric acid.
(Precaution: It does not burn you skin but can irritate eyes, but gloves & safety spectacles is advised while handling of it, & I used these too!. If it gets in your eyes accidently flush with lots of water ASAP, better keep a bottle of water handy awhile. It is a good DIY technique, as you cannot expect the regular money minded service centers/mechanics to do it for you promptly)

[Mpower]

Where are you doing the work. Looks like a backyard of a farmhouse.

[Stanher]

Originally Posted by tantragna

NOTE:
If you notice hard to scrub or deeper rusts you can use ortho-phosporic acid, which acts as rust converter. I found it in a chemicals dealer in a nearby industrial estate. It costed me INR.250/- for 2 liters, which was given to me as ready to use (not dilution reqd) colourless, sweet odour liquid which was as viscous as coconut oil. It converts red rust (active rust) to black (inactive) rust in 24hrs. A anti rust coating like primer & paint/pitch can be applied after the oxidation of the rust is done with a gap of 24hrs after application of the phosphoric acid.

Thanks. I've heard of people using phosphoric acid earlier.
Do you need to use caustic soda first though, for cleaning out the surface? Or can you use this directly?

[tantragna]

Originally Posted by Mpower

Where are you doing the work. Looks like a backyard of a farmhouse.

Yes @Mpower, it is a farmhouse (actually chicken farm) belonging to another friend of mine.

Originally Posted by Stanher

Thanks. I've heard of people using phosphoric acid earlier.
Do you need to use caustic soda first though, for cleaning out the surface? Or can you use this directly?

Not necessary, the dirt, oil & any paint which is covering the rust has to be taken out before its application. It would be better to scrape off as much as scales of rust for better penetration & results. The best part of phosphoric acid is that it removes mild rust completely to obtain clear metal surface. It also leaves a black salty layer on the applied layer, which provides a basic protection equivalent to anodisation of the iron/steel for a few days even if left exposed without any top up painting job. Overall a good smile on the face of the user!

As for my update on my project, the baby got her top coat of PU red paint & the photos are here to tell the tale. All GLOSSY! GLOSSY!

Also it happened to me today that I accidentally almost drank NC thinner kept very close vicinity to my bottle of drinking water. Oops! Thankful to GOD that I spit it out just before I swallowed, but left a burning mouth & nostril.

Thought for my day was "Never Mix Up Things, Like Eatables & Hazardous"

[tantragna]

Originally Posted by Stanher

Do you still get the rubber seals/beadings btw? I'm told the stainless steel strips on the window sills are no longer available. Incidentally, I need just one for my car, outer one on right rear door. The one on it is dented/scraped in one spot!

Hello Stanher, check this link on how to restore the damaged/dented metal trims.

How to Take Dents Out of Stainless Steel Trim

[samsag12]

Originally Posted by tantragna

Yes @Mpower, it is a farmhouse (actually chicken farm) belonging to another friend of mine.



Not necessary, the dirt, oil & any paint which is covering the rust has to be taken out before its application. It would be better to scrape off as much as scales of rust for better penetration & results. The best part of phosphoric acid is that it removes mild rust completely to obtain clear metal surface. It also leaves a black salty layer on the applied layer, which provides a basic protection equivalent to anodisation of the iron/steel for a few days even if left exposed without any top up painting job. Overall a good smile on the face of the user!

As for my update on my project, the baby got her top coat of PU red paint & the photos are here to tell the tale. All GLOSSY! GLOSSY!

Also it happened to me today that I accidentally almost drank NC thinner kept very close vicinity to my bottle of drinking water. Oops! Thankful to GOD that I spit it out just before I swallowed, but left a burning mouth & nostril.

Thought for my day was "Never Mix Up Things, Like Eatables & Hazardous"

The car paint matches rally specs. Waiting eagerly for the step by step refitting of the car. Please do keep updated on this tantragna.

[sidindica]

Suzuki SS80 3 door in Australia.

[PAVAN KADAM]

The car has come out really well.

If only you could have had the base paint white, the Red would have been killer.

Maybe that shade is your choice, waiting to see the final outcome.

[Stanher]

Originally Posted by tantragna

Not necessary, the dirt, oil & any paint which is covering the rust has to be taken out before its application. It would be better to scrape off as much as scales of rust for better penetration & results. The best part of phosphoric acid is that it removes mild rust completely to obtain clear metal surface. It also leaves a black salty layer on the applied layer, which provides a basic protection equivalent to anodisation of the iron/steel for a few days even if left exposed without any top up painting job.

As for my update on my project, the baby got her top coat of PU red paint & the photos are here to tell the tale. All GLOSSY! GLOSSY!

Also it happened to me today that I accidentally almost drank NC thinner kept very close vicinity to my bottle of drinking water. Oops! Thankful to GOD that I spit it out just before I swallowed, but left a burning mouth & nostril.

Thanks again for the info! 'will try it out.

Also remember having drank (just) some thinner from a water-bottle accidentally too once, around 2003, when I was in Singapore! I too luckily spat it out at once, but not before it left a similar burning in my mouth! 'was paranoid about seeing an unmarked water-bottle since then!

Originally Posted by tantragna

Hello Stanher, check this link on how to restore the damaged/dented metal trims.

How to Take Dents Out of Stainless Steel Trim

Thanks again! However, looks like I'll need a lot of 'junk' trims to experiment on before getting it right.