[shashank.nk]

Originally Posted by guyfrmblr

Thanks for the suggestions. I noticed in the instructions that this foam can be used only on the sidewalls but not on the threads and hence I used it only on the sidewalls. Do you know anything that can be used on the threads too? I know it'll be a waste of effort in cleaning the threads since dirt gets accumulated as soon as I take out the car but will give 100% satisfaction after cleaning the car . I have noticed that even the threads will be pitch black after servicing the car but I'm not aware what product they use for cleaning the threads.

Interesting you brought that point up. To be honest i've never bothered with cleaning the tread on any of my cars. Now that you've bought it up i'll definitely look into it and let you know.
I think All-purpose cleaner (APC) can be used on tyre tread too. I'll reconfirm and let you know. Also, any reason they mention for not using it on the tread ?

[guyfrmblr]

Originally Posted by shashank.nk

Also, any reason they mention for not using it on the tread ?

They haven't mentioned any reason but have instructed strictly not to use on the treads.

[shashank.nk]

Originally Posted by guyfrmblr

They haven't mentioned any reason but have instructed strictly not to use on the treads.

So looked it up. APC is great for the job however it is not advised to clean tread with a cleaner (except for removing small stones) as it will result in loss of grip.

[guyfrmblr]

I was thinking of installing fog lamps from the day of purchase 2.5 years back and it happened today. The old gen i20 Sportz version didn't come equipped with fog lamps. I had asked Advaith Hyundai for the cost of installing OEM fog lamps but came to know that they have to replace the entire bumper with that of Asta variant's which will set me back by Rs 10K. This didn't make sense to me since the OEM fog lamps were not that powerful and hence dropped the idea of replacing the bumper.

I gave a visit to Konark auto accessories, East End circle to check out the fog lamps this morning. They had a set by a Taiwan manufacturer called Esuse. The shop owner ensured me that it gives very good performance. I believed him since I have bought many other products from him in the past like seat covers, horns, headlights and all are giving very good service till date. I gave him a green signal to install. But the fog lamps were out of stock and he requested me to visit their shop in Kormangala. I then went there and the boys immediately started their work.

It took almost 2 hours for them to install and the work done was very neat.

Just after installing:





Taken at home:





Only the fog lamps:


Fog Lamps + Low beam headlights


Fog Lamps + High beam headlights


The total cost of fog lamps, switch and wiring was Rs 2750/-.

[100kmph]

Hi, was the switch Hyundai OEM or aftermarket? Can you post a pic of the switch? Anyways excellent spread for a set of aftermarket foglamps.

[guyfrmblr]

Originally Posted by 100kmph

Hi, was the switch Hyundai OEM or aftermarket? Can you post a pic of the switch?

Aftermarket. It looks straight out of a home which was built during 80s . Since its positioned near the driver's right knee, no can can see this switch. I would have never gone for this switch if it had been on some other place on the dashboard where everyone can see it.

The 80s flush switch:

Anyways excellent spread for a set of aftermarket foglamps.

Yes, the throw is very good. I usually drive around in low beams inside Bangalore since its more than adequate. However I used to observe that if I switch to high beams on highways, Osram NB+ was doing the job of illuminating the distant objects but it used to miss the near objects like potholes and dividers. Also at my hometown in Mangalore where the roads are very curvy, I wasn't able to see the proper edges of the curves if I switch to high beams. This is the reason for me to go with the fog lamps which does the job of illuminating the short distance objects. I'm visiting my hometown next weekend and will get to know the actual effect of the fog lamps.

[100kmph]

The same thing happened with us when we installed a set of aftermarket fog lamps in our A-Star. The switch was downright ugly with a red light glowing when it is on, blinding the eyes in the dark. After visiting three dealers, we finally got hold of an original switch. But no one was willing to install it as it had a different wiring. Finally a friendly mechanic at the MASS did the job for 50 bucks. Was working fine till we sold the car last month.

[guyfrmblr]

The car touched almost 70K and hence decided to give it for a service at Advaith Hyundai, ORR. Didn't had any complaints. The car was running fine without any issues. SA checked and mentioned that the clutch is absolutely fine. As usual, the service was great.

Odo Reading:


Its almost 12K km since I switched to Yokohama A-Drives and I'm very happy with it's performance. It has taken me to God forbidden places without any complaints. Only a single puncture until now due to a nail.

There are no rattles from any part of the car. There is no change in FE. The engine is as silent as before. The fog lamps which were installed last month are performing their duty without any fuss.

Cost Breakup:
1. Oil Supplement: 344.94
2. Carb and INJ Cleaner: 174.65
3. Engine Oil: 1286.39
4. A/C Neutralizer: 760.00
5. Filter Cartridge: 1376.63
6. Filter - Air Cleaner: 280.30
7. Service Kit - Oil Filter: 363.71

Labour And Services:
1. Brake O/H: 175.00
2. Diesel Filter replacement: 150.00
3. A/C Neutralizer: 190.00
4. Caliper Greasing: 235.00
5. Periodic maintenance Service: 1085.00

After inspection, SA called up and informed that brake pads have been worn out and hence needs to be replaced.

Pad Kit + Labour: 1840.78

Wanted to do wheel alignment and balancing at Madhu's but since I don't have sufficient time to visit there, got it done from Advaith itself.

Wheel Alignment and Balancing: 810.00

Tax: 915.51

Grand Total: 9987.91

[guyfrmblr]

Completed 70K KM somewhere near Melukote this noon.

[guyfrmblr]

I'm getting a metallic kat-kat-kat sound at around 1000 rpm in 2nd and 3rd gear. It just stays for a second or two and disappears once the rpm increases. The sound is better described by BHPian MrinalSinha in PatienceWins Getz thread as below:

I also face a particular metallic whining sound, like a loose washer spinning on a metal rod during pick up from low speeds on higher gears

PatienceWins too faced similar issue and the problem was found to be with clogged fuel tank strainer. I'm guessing its the same issue with my car too. I have contacted Advaith Hyundai and they have asked me to come on Monday. Can anyone please throw some light on this issue so that I can take it up with SA on Monday?

My colleague was complaining about pulling issue in his i20. He used to service it at KTC Hyundai, Calicut. They brainwashed him telling that its the default behavior of i20. He was very unhappy with the performance and was planning to sell it. I drove his car recently and found that it behaved completely different from my car. I searched the forum and found out that it could be an issue with EGR. I asked him to mention about EGR during the service and he did accordingly. They found out that a sensor related to EGR was blocked due to which the issue was seen. They cleaned it and the problem disappeared. Its a pity that customer has to give hints about resolution of issues to service guys . He is now completely happy with the car.

[sagarpadaki]

Hyundais new range of diesel engines have a solenoid operated EGR value and not a conventional one. And its mostly maintenance free. There is a very rare chance of it clogging up since it has a self cleaning mechanism

[mints21]

A very nice review of the car, I had always wanted a black colour i20, but this colour is not available in the current generation of this car, and settled for grey colour. We would be more than happy to see the pictures of the interiors. What is the mileage that you are getting after 70,000 kms.

I was told that in diesel cars the most expensive service is at 80,000 kms, is it a correct statement. Since, I have a diesel i20 as well, I am also keen at knowing the changes in the engine sound and smoothness of the car.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by mints21

A very nice review of the car, I had always wanted a black colour i20, but this colour is not available in the current generation of this car, and settled for grey colour. We would be more than happy to see the pictures of the interiors. What is the mileage that you are getting after 70,000 kms.

I was told that in diesel cars the most expensive service is at 80,000 kms, is it a correct statement. Since, I have a diesel i20 as well, I am also keen at knowing the changes in the engine sound and smoothness of the car.

Any diesel will have bill higher for the even number services (20k, 40K, 60k, 80k and so on) a compared to the odd number ones (10k, 30k, 50k, 70k and so on).

Reason for this is that all the fluids, filters etc are changed which in turn has higher labour rates totalling including taxes takes the service cost over the roof.

Anurag

[guyfrmblr]

Originally Posted by mints21

I had always wanted a black colour i20, but this colour is not available in the current generation of this car, and settled for grey colour.

I had zeroed on the dark blue color. When I went to showroom, the display car was a black one. I immediately changed the decision there. I guess when Hyundai wants to increase the price, they'll add black and some other shades, a chrome grill and some minor enhancements and will name it as a 'facelift'.

What is the mileage that you are getting after 70,000 kms.

I'm getting around 17-18 kmpl in city and 20-22 kmpl in highways. FE hasn't changed since I bought the car.

I was told that in diesel cars the most expensive service is at 80,000 kms, is it a correct statement.

According to the SA, the major services are at 60K and 90K for i20 crdi. But as you would have seen from my earlier posts, all the service bills are ending up in the vicinity of 10K.

Since, I have a diesel i20 as well, I am also keen at knowing the changes in the engine sound and smoothness of the car.

The engine is as silent as before. There is a minor clatter during cold starts but its absolutely silent after it reaches optimal temperature. The main highlight is the absence of rattles. There is absolutely no rattles or any squeaking sound from any part of the car. There was a minor rattle from the front left seat from the day of purchase which the Hyundai ASC never solved. But now I position the seat such that the rattling sound doesn't crop up.

[guyfrmblr]

I'm getting a metallic kat-kat-kat sound at around 1000 rpm in 2nd and 3rd gear. It just stays for a second or two and disappears once the rpm increases.

Problem solved. I took the car to Advaith Hyundai, ORR this morning. My SA sent a mechanic with me for the test drive and asked me to explain/demonstrate the issue to him. I took him into some inner roads since the sound could not be heard in the busy ORR.

I lugged the engine a bit and the metallic sound was heard at around 1100 RPM. It was happening in all the gears but was more prominent in 2nd and 3rd gears. The mechanic said that some nut or bolt would have gone loose. I dismissed him telling that the sound would have heard at all RPM levels if the problem was with nuts and bolts.

While I was busy demonstrating him the issue, he asked if I have filled the diesel from any bunk other than my normal bunk for which my answer was NO. He told that it could be an issue with the blocked fuel filter or lines. I finally left the car in Advaith and headed towards office.

My SA called after an hour and told that the issue could be due to the blocked fuel lines or filter and may require a day or two to completely check and clean them. I gave them a green signal.

He again called me in the evening and informed that the issue is resolved. He mentioned that a 20 digit code in the ECU which controls the fuel injection was reset during the diesel filter replacement and this was the root cause for the problem. Due to this, the fuel wasn't injecting in the desired manner at that RPM which was leading to engine knocking sound. He apologized numerous number of times and ensured that it won't happen again.

I went to service center in the evening and went for a long TD with SA and mechanic and ensured that the issue is resolved. I then drove for a considerable distance and observed that everything is normal. The only good thing is that they diagnosed the issue correctly and rectified it very quickly.