[dkaile]

Originally Posted by itwasntme

One query on putting new tyres in front. Should not they go to the back for a big heavy car like the Superb? Sounds counter-intuitive but that is what is being recommended now.

Yes, I have read that thread. But I am going with what has served me well for almost 30 years now. In front wheel driven 'sedans' , I feel the best place for new set of rubber is the front. And I could notice an immediate difference in ride quality. I suppose there is no substitute for real world experience.

Cheers...

[lancer_rit]

Originally Posted by dkaile

Yes, I have read that thread. But I am going with what has served me well for almost 30 years now. In front wheel driven 'sedans' , I feel the best place for new set of rubber is the front. And I could notice an immediate difference in ride quality. I suppose there is no substitute for real world experience.

Cheers...

Actually, new tyres must go to the rear regardless of FWD, RWD or AWD. Less grippy front tyres result in understeer, while the same in the rear cause oversteer. Understeer is easier to deal with as a driver, than oversteer.

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by lancer_rit

Actually, new tyres must go to the rear regardless of FWD, RWD or AWD. Less grippy front tyres result in understeer, while the same in the rear cause oversteer. Understeer is easier to deal with as a driver, than oversteer.

Then let's agree to disagree 😊.

Cheers...

[lapis_lazuli]

Hello Mr.Kaile! I am looking around for a 2011/2012 1.8TSI manual. Of course, you would recommend a buy, but, what should I be looking out for? Apart from reasonable mileage on it, what should I be checking specifically or ask the accompanying mechanic to look for? Your thread and some other ownership reports, sort of convinced me it would be a good acquisition.

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by lapis_lazuli

Hello Mr.Kaile! I am looking around for a 2011/2012 1.8TSI manual. Of course, you would recommend a buy, but, what should I be looking out for? Apart from reasonable mileage on it, what should I be checking specifically or ask the accompanying mechanic to look for?

Go for a 2012 or later 1.8 Manual transmission TSI Elegance trim only. The DSG are notorious to fail in Indian conditions. Other then that look closely around the bonnet and underside for any respray work and look for clean shut lines on all doors, which will indicate whether the car has been in a accident or not. Check the service history thoroughly from the service station and it should have had the mandated oil/filter changes. Other then that see how the car idles to check the turbo. Ideally the car should settle into a nice smooth idle within 30 seconds from a cold start. This will indicate a trouble free turbo charger. Check both low/high mode air conditioning cooling and also clutch wear during the test drive. Also all electronics, fuel and temperature gauges, lights, infotainment system, Bluetooth etc. Check speaker output and clarity to ascertain any damage. Check all tyres and wheels. Rest you can always tell the cars condition by a nice walk around during daytime. Happy hunting.

Cheers...

[Akshay1234]

Originally Posted by dkaile

Other then that see how the car idles to check the turbo. Ideally the car should settle into a nice smooth idle within 30 seconds from a cold start. This will indicate a trouble free turbo charger.

How does the above tell you about the condition of the turbo? If I am not wrong, it would not even be making boost at idle, so how will that tell you anything about the turbo?

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by Akshay1234

How does the above tell you about the condition of the turbo? If I am not wrong, it would not even be making boost at idle, so how will that tell you anything about the turbo?

AFAIK my Superb starts at a slightly erratic idle on cold starts, goes into a slight boost and then settles down to creamy smooth idle. Not touching the accelerator at that point of time gives the turbo time to be lubricated properly. This behavior I have ascertained, points to a perfectly working turbo (kindly read the importance of idling thread on TeamBhp) as also a normal MAF Sensor in the air box. Which needs to be further validated by a longish test drive in which you can really feel the turbo kick in while accelerating. These are two ways to check that the turbo is working properly.

Cheers....

[jalajprakash]

Originally Posted by lancer_rit

Actually, new tyres must go to the rear regardless of FWD, RWD or AWD. Less grippy front tyres result in understeer, while the same in the rear cause oversteer. Understeer is easier to deal with as a driver, than oversteer.

Grippier/newer tires in the front allow for better braking and turning ability when considered for most Indian cars (FWD) and the use they're put through (aka no racetracks). If you have a high horsepower RWD car then rear tires might matter more since the rear for such cars has a tendency to come loose very easily.

[neoonwheels]

Originally Posted by lapis_lazuli

Hello Mr.Kaile! I am looking around for a 2011/2012 1.8TSI manual. Of course, you would recommend a buy, but, what should I be looking out for? Apart from reasonable mileage on it, what should I be checking specifically or ask the accompanying mechanic to look for? Your thread and some other ownership reports, sort of convinced me it would be a good acquisition.

I was in the same boat before settling for a pre-owned Jetta TDI. Things which you should look out in case of Superb tsi:

1. Water pump replacement - Seen quite a few with this done in their service history. Looks like a common issue across 1.8 tsi and 2.0 tdi (My Jetta also has this replaced).
2. ABS Sensor - Not too common but can burn a hole in your pocket
3. The headlight washer - I guess I read that you dont get even the metallic finished clip separately. If something goes wrong with this, you will have to replace whole headlight. Cost 35K
4. Rear seat armrest - Not common issue but if something goes wrong, another 30-40K expense.
5. Battery - Again seen that battery on Superb and Jetta needs replacement every 2-3 years. May be since these cars have a lot of electronics.

Anyways this is a list of the issues that I have seen across multiple Superbs while going through their service history. Superb Tsi MT is one of the best cars you can buy pre-owned. This beauty depreciates like its nobody's business.

The 2011-2013 cars are available in the range of 6 - 8L. Best deal that I could crack was Jan 2013 Tsi Elegance at 6.8L. Best of luck for your hunt.

[Akshay1234]

Originally Posted by dkaile

AFAIK my Superb starts at a slightly erratic idle on cold starts, goes into a slight boost and then settles down to creamy smooth idle. Not touching the accelerator at that point of time gives the turbo time to be lubricated properly. This behavior I have ascertained, points to a perfectly working turbo (kindly read the importance of idling thread on TeamBhp) as also a normal MAF Sensor in the air box. Which needs to be further validated by a longish test drive in which you can really feel the turbo kick in while accelerating. These are two ways to check that the turbo is working properly.

Cheers....

FYI the idling for turbos is before shutting down the vehicle and not while starting. Also a strong or weak turbo has nothing to do with a cold start or idling as far as I know.

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by Akshay1234

FYI the idling for turbos is before shutting down the vehicle and not while starting. Also a strong or weak turbo has nothing to do with a cold start or idling as far as I know.

I do not agree with that at all. The VW based engines need idling at cold start without touching the accelerator for at least 30 seconds. This keeps both the turbo and the MAF and other major components in good health. You can find hundreds of topics on the net on the exact same discussion of 'rough idle at cold start with VW engines' especially with people who do not follow the proper idling rule on startup. I follow this quite judiciously and maybe that is one of the reasons my car is absolutely trouble free even 5 years down the line.

Also someone mentioned in the previous post that the headlight washer covers are not available separately. Wrong! Mine got stolen (read previous posts) and I had mine easily replaced from the dealership for around 8-900 bucks. The water pump also goes bad prematurely on cars where people do not follow the idling rule properly, if all other maintenance is followed on schedule. I always rely (after having learnt many lessons in life) on my own experiences rather than what A, B or C mechanic/expert tells me. Maybe that is why all my cars and motorcycles are in impeccable condition even years down the line.

Cheers...

[adi_petrolhead]

Completely agree on the idling part. For my 1.8 TSI Octy, from day 1, during cold start, the RPM is always above 1000 for about 15-20 seconds, and it feels a bit erratic where the car/engine shakes a little bit intermittently, more like a pulsating movement rather than vibration.

It settles down to smooth idle after that.

The above phenomenon gives me time to settle such as putting on my glares But I have never driven off without the completion of the above on its own.

In winters, it takes about 5-10 seconds longer. I find it normal because its there since day 1 of ownership. Although the pulsating movement started after a few months if I remember correctly.

[neoonwheels]

Originally Posted by dkaile

I do not agree with that at all. The VW based engines need idling at cold start without touching the accelerator for at least 30 seconds. This keeps both the turbo and the MAF and other major components in good health. You can find hundreds of topics on the net on the exact same discussion of 'rough idle at cold start with VW engines' especially with people who do not follow the proper idling rule on startup. I follow this quite judiciously and maybe that is one of the reasons my car is absolutely trouble free even 5 years down the line.

Also someone mentioned in the previous post that the headlight washer covers are not available separately. Wrong! Mine got stolen (read previous posts) and I had mine easily replaced from the dealership for around 8-900 bucks. The water pump also goes bad prematurely on cars where people do not follow the idling rule properly, if all other maintenance is followed on schedule. I always rely (after having learnt many lessons in life) on my own experiences rather than what A, B or C mechanic/expert tells me. Maybe that is why all my cars and motorcycles are in impeccable condition even years down the line.

Cheers...

Unfortunately, until you buy car, you will have to rely on other's experience with the car. It was me who said the water pump is a common issue and I am not saying I 'heard' it, rather came to know after I went through almost 6 Superb and Jetta service histories.

I even went through this very thread multiple times before narrowing down on Superb tsi MT as a candidate for pre-owned route. I thank you whole heatedly for maintaining this thread as it must have helped a lot of people like me. At times you have to rely on other's experiences positive or negative.

[dkaile]

Originally Posted by neoonwheels

At times you have to rely on other's experiences positive or negative.

I think you understood me wrong. I never said water pumps can't fail. In these VAG cars, these crucial components are quite sensitive to one's driving style. All I mentioned is that if people learn to maintain their cars properly and follow idling rule (especially with VAG vehicles), chances of break down reduces drastically, as in my case, where no crucial component has failed even years down the line, fingers crossed. Hope that clarifies. Enjoy your Jetta.

Cheers...

[Akshay1234]

Originally Posted by adi_petrolhead

Completely agree on the idling part. For my 1.8 TSI Octy, from day 1, during cold start, the RPM is always above 1000 for about 15-20 seconds, and it feels a bit erratic where the car/engine shakes a little bit intermittently, more like a pulsating movement rather than vibration.

It settles down to smooth idle after that.

The above phenomenon gives me time to settle such as putting on my glares But I have never driven off without the completion of the above on its own.

Yes on a cold start the RPMs are high to help the engine warm up quicker. And it is always best to wait until the cold start is finished before moving.

My point in this case is that all this has nothing to do with the turbo being healthy or not.

Judging the idle or cold start of a car in no way gives you an idea about the turbo condition.