Periodic Service update at 82,000 Kms:
Post clocking 80,000 Kms that happened in the midst of my recent 3500 kms drive to Rajkot and back, it was time to visit for a periodic Service.
At 80,000 kms, it not only meant that all the fluids were replaced and filters too, but I also had to ensure that the suspension was checked along with the supporting elements like bushes etc.
I will let the pictures do the talking in terms of what was done during the recent service. Before that, here is a summary of the tasks executed during the service:
- Engine Oil & Oil filter – Replace
- Transmission/Gear Oil – Replace
- Air Filter - Replace
- Cabin Air Filter - Replace
- Coolant – Replace
- Brake Fluid – Replace
- Brake Pads – Inspect & Replace if necessary
- Brake Shoes - Inspect & Replace if necessary
- Disc Rotors & Rear Drums - Inspect
- EGR – Inspect & Clean
- Caliper Pins – Brass welding & refit for a Temporary fix
Brakes:
The Brake pads were inspected first and at this stage the stock pads had around 5-7k kms life left. I have mostly been pro-active with this even in my WagonR and replace them before it actually starts damaging the rotors. The Pads were replaced during this service. Happy to note that they lasted a good 82,000 kms and still had life left to stretch till 90,000 kms. Even in my WagonR, had replaced them at 77,000 kms. It only means one thing as I always say – I learn to drive better every time!
The Disc Rotors at 82,000 kms were holding up well without any marks or rough surfaces. The rear shoes and drums too were in good condition that they were only cleaned.
How the brake pads looked at 82,000 kms

The Disc Rotors

Rear Brake Shoes

Brand new Pads vs OE at 82,000 kms
Caliper Pins:I had mentioned in my previous updates that the caliper pin noise has been very common in my Ertiga (as well in the WagonR anyway). Bhpian H14 has suggested brass welding them for a temporary fix while the ASC also suggested I try that option. Over the few years there have been many jugaads around fixing this and this (Brass Welding) was one of them. I took the plunge and got this done during the service and the pins were fixed back into the caliper and so far so good I must say. The noise is arrested and I am hopeful that it remains that way at least for the next 10,000 kms. I will replace the Calipers later.
The process involves welding brass on top of the caliper pins to make them thicker by a narrow degree and then via lathe bring it back to the original shape like how a new caliper is (Edges/Taper etc). This is done because the caliper where the pins go would have developed enlargement in the holes and the gap makes these pins hit against the caliper creating a thud noise every time you pass over rough patches.
Here are few pictures of the caliper pins after they arrived from the Machine shop post Brass welding. Notice the traces of welded brass which is so visible. Hoping that this survives for the next few months or 10,000 kms at least:
The owner’s manual suggests this every 30,000 kms while there have been various counter theories all around on not to get this done if you are a regular highway driver, the Italian Tune up blah blah blah. Well, It was time for me to get more curious and check the condition of the EGR at 82,000 kms as I had never cleaned this ever before and neither did I face any performance or FE Issues before.
The removal of EGR itself is a very tedious process, especially in the Ertiga which has a cramped engine bay. After almost 30 minutes effort the EGR was removed and the valve opened. The following pictures are self-explanatory on how clogged the EGR was and how it looked after cleaning was done:
Advise to other Ertiga owners (and extended DDiS counterparts too):
Looking at my usage of daily driving in Bangalore for 70 kms and regular highway driving with fuel filled from multiple fuel stations, the condition of the EGR itself speaks a lot. I would advise you all to get the EGR cleaned every 30-40k kms.
MAF sensor cleaning (DIY):
This was a DIY that was accomplished at home the next day after the service was done and since I had already posted a detailed step-by-step post earlier, I have only 2 pictures to talk about this task:
Dashcam Charger Repair (DIY):The Daschcam charger that I use for my 18 month old Transcend DrivePro 200 is the one from an earlier DVR (dates back to 2013) which I had in the WagonR. Since the charger specs were same and I had already concealed the wires in the Ertiga while I was using this old Dashcam, It was a wasted effort to remove that and install the one supplied with Transcend. So this charger worked flawlessly for years and continuous usage too until It gave up one day as I noted that the Dashcam wasn’t turning on. I isolated the 12V socket or the camera by using a different device & charger respectively. So the culprit was indeed the Charger.
Now the good thing about this charger was that it had a miniature fuse as I opened it and the first thing to check was this using a multimeter. It confirmed the fault and I had few of these fuses handy (from the CRT TV days) and simply plonked one into this and fixed it.
Here are a few pictures related to replacing the fuse for the charger and make it working again:
So the Ertiga is back to business and keeps chugging happily!