[baby_antu]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Have been hearing good things about the recently launched FireStone brand(sister company of Bridgestone). Lets see how things pan out.

Kindly avoid Firestone. They have issues of tyre bulging and the sidewall is also too weak IMHO. They are cheap for a reason.

[Leoshashi]

As love knows no bounds, so does precision: Got torque wrenches for my 800.

Enjoyed using it, and also torqued spark plugs and wheel lug nuts to recommended torque.

My latest toys


Calibration Certificates

Technical specifications

Torquing the spark plugs

Torque data in the workshop manual

Torquing the wheel lug nuts

Torque data in the workshop manual

Regards,
Shashi

[Varun_HexaGuy]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

As love knows no bounds, so does precision: Got torque wrenches for my 800.

Enjoyed using it, and also torqued spark plugs and wheel lug nuts to recommended torque.

My latest toys
Attachment 1646828
Attachment 1646829
Calibration Certificates
Attachment 1646830
Technical specifications
Attachment 1646831
Torquing the spark plugs
Attachment 1646832
Torque data in the workshop manual
Attachment 1646833
Torquing the wheel lug nuts
Attachment 1646834
Torque data in the workshop manual
Attachment 1646835

Regards,
Shashi

Hi @Sashi sir,
I love the way you maintain your steed. The way you maintain your steed is something to boast about and congratulations on the new toys and enjoy your Steed.

Drive safe and buckle up,
Varun

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

As love knows no bounds, so does precision: Got torque wrenches for my 800. Enjoyed using it, and also torqued spark plugs and wheel lug nuts to recommended torque.

Congrats!

You're a chap after my own heart. I too bought 2 torque wrenches for my cars in the early 2000s. Not too much of a choice in India back in those days so bought them in the UK @ Halfords. A Halfords model for the wheel nuts and a Drapers model for smaller fastners and spark plugs.

Just a word of advice - make sure you treat them good. TWs look tough but they don't like being dropped or handled rough. Never fiddle with the calibration screw. Manufacturers generally recommend a calibration every few years but since I don't use my wrenches too much they are stored carefully where nobody can mess with them. They're now 14 years old and still in perfect order.

PS - Never ever apply oil or grease to the wheel nuts as many are seen to do in this country. This supposedly makes them easy to take off when you have a flat. But then that's precisely what one doesn't want with wheel nuts. For spark plugs you can use a dab of anti lock (AKA anti seize) compound.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Congrats!

You're a chap after my own heart.

Haha. Thanks! I do love to collect and use these tools.

Just a word of advice - make sure you treat them good. TWs look tough but they don't like being dropped or handled rough. Never fiddle with the calibration screw. Manufacturers generally recommend a calibration every few years but since I don't use my wrenches too much they are stored carefully where nobody can mess with them. They're now 14 years old and still in perfect order.

+1 to that. I actually went through this video many times to catch small things, before purchasing the actual torque wrench.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3v3hLvuO_KU

PS - Never ever apply oil or grease to the wheel nuts as many are seen to do in this country. This supposedly makes them easy to take off when you have a flat. But then that's precisely what one doesn't want with wheel nuts.

Sure. I follow exactly what is given in the workshop manual. It also doesn't say anything about using grease. Besides, applying grease also attracts dust and grime, which can damage the threads of the stud.

For spark plugs you can use a dab of anti lock (AKA anti seize) compound.

From which site do you buy anti seize?? I'd love to use them but can't find them anywhere. Even thread locking compounds like loctite etc are hard to get in India.

So I have been using these compounds from MGP(they do supply anti seize and other compounds).

Regards,
Shashi

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Sure. I follow exactly what is given in the workshop manual. It also doesn't say anything about using grease. Besides, applying grease also attracts dust and grime, which can damage the threads of the stud.

The idea of wheel nuts or lugs is they are designed to 'lock' in place after being torqued correctly and with the heating/cooling cycle of the wheel.

From which site do you buy anti seize?? I'd love to use them but can't find them anywhere. Even thread locking compounds like loctite etc are hard to get in India.

I bought Loctite blue to use with some of my photography kit (to lock ball head on the tripod) years ago. This is a temporary locking adhesive/solution. NEVER use RED Loctite (262/263) unless you want to permanently install the fastener. You can buy it off Amazon India here

http://www.amazon.in/Loctite-243-Thr...NV018ZCZE6FAPG

A single drop spread on the threads is more than enough. Do not apply excessive amounts.

So I have been using these compounds from MGP(they do supply anti seize and other compounds).

Don't use it till necessary. Frankly, I have never used anti-seize compounds in well over 3 decades of driving and working on cars and bikes.

If the plugs are installed and torqued correctly they will in all probability not lock. The chrome coating on spark plug bodies does prevent locking AFAIK. Besides adding this compound may alter torquing values and damage the threads. Read more here:

https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-...ut-spark-plugs

I use only Denso or NGK plugs in my cars.

[Leoshashi]

A SunDIY well-spent.

This sunday, I dropped in at BHPian Saket77's place with the intention of getting our hands dirty. We cleaned most valves, like PCV, brake hose and other hoses using ear buds and IPA. PCV in both the cars were a bit stuck. After all this, we cleaned the distributor terminals in both our cars. It was a fun filled day, which ended with a sumptuous lunch. Thanks Saket Bhaiya!!






__________________________________________________ ____


Off late, a faint screech was coming from the left side, mostly like chu chu chu, and I was sure it was from the front discs. They had a little deflection, but since it was within limits, we were ignoring it. The screech soon turned into a mild judder. The issue was only in LHS Disc, but I decided to change both the discs and got new brake pads as well. I am a firm believer of a saying: What comes as a pair, should be replaced as a pair. The brake discs lasted for 17 years/3 lac kms plus, so I have no complains.

However things turned for the worse when both the the replacement discs were found defective. They had huge deflection, and produced heavy juddering. My MASS had discs in stock, but we decided to avoid the existing batch and get from the latest batch possible. They ordered fresh new discs from the distributor, and while this meant I had to wait for a day, what I got in return was perfectly working car in every sense. They again checked the new discs for deflection before handing over the car to me.

Also got the gearoil changed, and again used the Liqui Moly additive for the gearbox.

Time for pictures:




Brake Pads

Disc, from the latest batch

Mechanic setting up the deflection meter

Deflection



Bath time

Bill


Regards,
Shashi

[saket77]

It was fun Sunday working on both cars. What Shashi missed is that we also cleaned the throttle body, air filters, a few sensors of the Zen too.
It is always nice to have a good company while working on cars and your presence made sure it was the case. And probably your day didn't end then. I see that you visited MASS the same day!
I see you got the discs changed. Did you not try getting them skimmed or since they were too old, skimming them was not an option due to the reduced thickness?

Regards.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by saket77

I see you got the discs changed. Did you not try getting them skimmed or since they were too old, skimming them was not an option due to the reduced thickness?

The old discs were surprisingly in an excellent shape considering the age and the mileage of the car. As per my SA, my old discs had lost just 1-1.4mm in all these years. Skimming them was an option, but since the discs were dirt cheap in MGP anyway, I decided to go with the new ones. But never expected to receive a defective piece right out of the box.

My brake pads were relatively new(approx 6 months old), but decided to change them so that everything works at their maximum efficiency. The mechanic was having a tough time to discard the fairly new brake pads.

Regards,
Shashi

[R2D2]

@Leoshashi, have you tried using synthetic gearbox oil instead of additive? For e.g http://www.amazon.in/Liqui-Moly-Synt.../dp/B00TQ3S392

or

http://www.amazon.in/Mobil-104361-75...le+1+gear+lube

Thanks for sharing pics of GG getting a new set of brake discs

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by R2D2

@Leoshashi, have you tried using synthetic gearbox oil instead of additive?

Yes Sir, I have used the synthetic gear oil, but somehow felt that the shifts are best with the combination of Shell Spirax 75w90 + 2 tubes of additive. Specially cars like Swift and Ciaz go berserk when fully synthetic gearoil is used-the shifts become extremely notchy.

I guess most Maruti gearboxes love Shell Spirax 75w90(saying this from my personal experience). So I always ask my MASS to source me shell's gearoil.

Regards,
Shashi

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Yes Sir, I have used the synthetic gear oil, but somehow felt that the shifts are best with the combination of Shell Spirax 75w90 + 2 tubes of additive. Specially cars like Swift and Ciaz go berserk when fully synthetic gearoil is used-the shifts become extremely notchy. I guess most Maruti gearboxes love Shell Spirax 75w90(saying this from my personal experience). So I always ask my MASS to source me shell's gearoil

That's good. Coz I want to change my car's MT oil when it turns 9 in Oct and is due for its annual service.

Though the mileage is very low and the factory lube is supposedly permanent (except under some circumstances) I think the 'box could do with some fresh lube. I am considering only synthetic. So it'll either be Shell Spirax, Liqui Moly or Mobil 1 75W-90 lube.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by R2D2

That's good. Coz I want to change my car's MT oil when it turns 9 in Oct and is due for its annual service.

Though the mileage is very low and the factory lube is supposedly permanent (except under some circumstances) I think the 'box could do with some fresh lube. I am considering only synthetic. So it'll either be Shell Spirax, Liqui Moly or Mobil 1 75W-90 lube.

I have never believed in these Life long lubes, and in the interest of car's health, they should be changed proactively. Manufacturers are resorting to these things just because they want their cars to look like low maintenance compared to the competition. It's life long only in "standard" conditions, which the Indian conditions aren't.

One factor which degrades the oil faster than it should is absence of breather plug. It's a 2mm dia plug in most cars, but that's what protects the gearoil from getting contaminated. It falls off in most cars, and owners are unaware about it.

I'd recommend you to choose gearoil according to the grade mentioned in your owners manual. If you want extra slickness, you can give that additive a try. It really works and I have personally checked it in many cars.

Regards,
Shashi

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

I have never believed in these Life long lubes, and in the interest of car's health, they should be changed proactively. Manufacturers are resorting to these things just because they want their cars to look like low maintenance compared to the competition. It's life long only in "standard" conditions, which the Indian conditions aren't.

I agree with you fully. They try and portray the image of a low maintenance car when there is an indirect cost to each delay or postponement of any service.

One factor which degrades the oil faster than it should is absence of breather plug. It's a 2mm dia plug in most cars, but that's what protects the gearoil from getting contaminated. It falls off in most cars, and owners are unaware about it.

Good point. I am not sure where my car's transmission breather plug/hole is but I need to check it. Live & learn!

I'd recommend you to choose gearoil according to the grade mentioned in your owners manual. If you want extra slickness, you can give that additive a try. It really works and I have personally checked it in many cars.

The links to lubes that I sent you (Mobil & Liqui Moly) 75W-90 GL4/GL5 are recommended for my car too. If I choose to go with synthetic I won't opt for any additive but if it's old style dino oil then the LM additive will also be added.

Shashi, I have been reading your thread from the beginning including the photo with you as a youngster on the front seat. I must say this thread has got to be one of the most readable ownership experiences on this site. Your attachment to GG is very appealing. I can relate to it coz I am a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to my cars as well. Kudos and thanks again for sharing the experience with us. BTW I bought my dark blue Maruti Esteem MPFI E-II in Jul 2000 a few months after GG joined your family.

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Though the mileage is very low and the factory lube is supposedly permanent (except under some circumstances) I think the 'box could do with some fresh lube. I am considering only synthetic. So it'll either be Shell Spirax, Liqui Moly or Mobil 1 75W-90 lube.

I am an ardent user of Petronas Tutela Technyx. I have used it in both my palios, my current cedia and it has made a day and night difference in the operation of gearbox in all cars.

It costs Rs 600 per liter at Fiat showrooms. Expensive but its the only fully synthetic gearbox oil which is compatible with our gearboxes. Avoid anything that says GL5 on the label since GL5 fluids will cause rapid wear of synchros on GL4 gearboxes.

The liqui moly gearbox oil you linked says GL5 on the label, I wouldn't touch it with a bargepole