[Leoshashi]

Update: Ever since I had upgraded to Philips LEDs for Tailights, one issue was on my radar. The bulbs in the HMSL were Halogen Type, whereas the TL became full LEDs. This caused a minor lag between the operation of HMSL and TL.

https://youtu.be/CSfOhGciE-w

The weird bulb T16 inside the HMSL meant the options were severely limited. Luckily I found genuine Philips ones on Aliexpress and ordered them immediately. Took around 20 days to reach me.



The lag is now gone. Will upload a video shot at night.

Regards,
Shashi

[Leoshashi]

Update: Since I had dedicated the thread exclusively to BHPian MADMANSCAM's 800 for a few days, a lot happened W.R.T the regular maintenance and upkeep of the Goose which I didn't update. Some were DIYs, while others were done at MASS

Part 1:

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Also, my mechanic Arjun wasn't happy with the effort required by the handbrake, hence he started dismantling the rear drums. It truly needed an overhaul, as lots of dust and rust came out. He cleaned the internals throughly, sanded the back plate, painted it with a heat resistant Rustoleum paint(Seriously Hats off for the patience) and installed everything back. The sub cylinder of the LHS wheel was a bit leaky and it was promptly replaced.

.....................................

The incredibly dirty and rusty rear wheel drum

While we did take the effort to clean and paint the internals of the drum, specially the backing plate, the sanding wasn't done properly due to space constraints. So needless to say, the paint job didn't last even a month.

This was always on my mind, and I wanted to do a proper job. Arjun recommended a place where we could do this without any objection. MASS owner wasn't too enthusiastic about us doing these small things, and he was pushing for a new Backing plate. However, replacement isn't always the solution. Hence FNG it was!

The main issue we faced last time was with rust removal. This time, I was better equipped. We first masked off the brake cylinder and all rubber parts. Then we carefully applied Rustoleum Krud Kutter(Rust remover) with cotton. Within 15 minutes, rust got dissolved comprehensively. We washed the internals comprehensively as the Rust remover appeared a bit corrosive. After properly drying, we sprayed it with Rustoleum High Temperature Primer and then one layer of High Temperature Paint. I didn't care much about the aesthetics here, protecting the metal was my first priority. Hence didn't bother with painting it black.

The appalling state of the internals, again



Rust remover worked like a charm



Rustoleum High Temperature Primer



Looks good now



Part 2: Had to change the Engine oil a bit Prematurely, and also decided to switch to Fully Synthetic Gear Oil in the recommended 75w90 grade. Opted for Motul. The most evident change after the switch was that cold shifts were noticeably smoother.

5 Speed Gearbox takes 2.1L, hence 3 bottles.



Imported from France



Shell Helix Ultra 5W40: This oil was highly recommended by DBHPian R2D2, hence gave it a shot.





The Entire lineup of Lubes



Part 3: I noticed an issue where some coolant used to leak around the Thermostat housing after the car was operated for say 2-3 hours. It was a minor leak and happened only when the engine was all warmed up. Hence changed both the gaskets myself:







Part 4: Timing Belt, Tensioner and other drivebelts changed. While the timing belt was changed around 5 years back, the tensioner was skipped due to the unavailability of the part that time. Running an Interference engine on 19 year Old Tensioner was a disturbing thought, and I had to get this done at any cost. Made sure all required parts were available before I went for the change this time.

The belt itself was okay, but the rusted and horribly dragging tensioner had started taking its toll on the belt. There was visible mark of belt sticking on the tensioner.

GG on the lift, ready for the change



5 year old belt and the 19 year old Tensioner. Notice the marks on it.



The poor condition of the Tensioner bearing



Opted for the Contitech made Timing Belt. This one is noticeably well made compared to the Fenner made MGP belt recommended for my car. Contitech was used on All Export model 800s, and Alto 800 manufactured after 2013. Specs wise its the same, differs only in Quality, make and obviously price.



Also got the AC and Water pump belts changed, as they hardly cost anything. The old ones were anyways due for a replacement soon





Tensioner Assembly. This one is shared with Gen1 Alto, WagonR, Gen2 Alto 800 and other F series cars.



New Belt and tensioner installed. Since there was rust on the old tensioner assembly, I also opted to change the timing cover gasket.



Regards,
Shashi

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

This was always on my mind, and I wanted to do a proper job. Arjun recommended a place where we could do this without any objection. MASS owner wasn't too enthusiastic about us doing these small things, and he was pushing for a new Backing plate. However, replacement isn't always the solution. Hence FNG it was!

That's a great looking brake job there.

Had to change the Engine oil a bit Prematurely, and also decided to switch to Fully Synthetic Gear Oil in the recommended 75w90 grade. Opted for Motul. The most evident change after the switch was that cold shifts were noticeably smoother.

Shashi, just FYI Motul's Technosynthese products are semi synthetic. And this one is a GL4+ but their brochure says its safe for yellow metal (synchronizer) parts and seals. I use LM's fully synthetic 75W-90 GL4+ in my car. You could consider it next time.

Shell Helix Ultra 5W40: This oil was highly recommended by DBHPian R2D2, hence gave it a shot.

This oil works wonderfully for older gen petrol engines requiring SAE xW-30 or xW-40 oils. It's not a diesel engine oil but can be used in engines requiring no better than API CF.

SHU probably isn't the best out there but the price/performance is very hard to beat. I'd love to hear your feedback on this. TBHPian Swapnil4585's was happy (ARTICLE: Synthetic oil vs Mineral oil) with the oil doing duty in his Corolla Altis.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Shashi, just FYI Motul's Technosynthese products are semi synthetic.

Thanks for the confirmation. The cheap price compared to Liqui Moly was an indication. I got 3L of this gearoil for little under Rs. 1000 during the Diwali Sale.

And this one is a GL4+ but their brochure says its safe for yellow metal (synchronizer) parts and seals.

This is the only reason which stopped me from going with Liqui Moly. Motul had mentioned this about being safe for Synchros, but Liqui Moly's page didn't say anything clearly(or I couldn't find it).

SHU probably isn't the best out there but the price/performance is very hard to beat. I'd love to hear your feedback on this.

I agree. During the Diwali October sale on Amazon, I got 3L of SHU for around Rs.1500 which is killer VFM IMHO. Also, I was keen to use it based on your recommendation. To be honest, I would rate Motul X-Cess 5w40 and Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 equally. Liqui Moly gave a better but false sense of smoothness and refinement which I didn't like. Also post 5000kms, Liqui Moly's performance decreases substantially. The oil changes color very quickly. This thing didn't happen with Motul and Shell. I have already driven close to 2000kms on the new oil. German made LMs were better in quality, compared to few oils of LM which have been localised.

With Motul/SHU, the engine feels RAW and grunty, with LM, it felt more civilised. Both in terms of smoothness and acceleration.

Regards,
Shashi

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Thanks for the confirmation. The cheap price compared to Liqui Moly was an indication. I got 3L of this gearoil for little under Rs. 1000 during the Diwali Sale.

That's value for money even for a semi synthetic lube. LM's GL4+ was Rs 3600 for 2 litres <gulp>

This is the only reason which stopped me from going with Liqui Moly. Motul had mentioned this about being safe for Synchros, but Liqui Moly's page didn't say anything clearly(or I couldn't find it).

It's not on their web page or in their product brochure. I emailed LM and got this reply:

thank you very much for contacting us and your interest in our LIQUI MOLY products.

Regarding to our database the manufacter Toyota requires a API GL-4 or API GL-5 classified gear oil for the C59 gearbox of your Corolla. So our #LM4434 High Performance Gear Oil GL4+ SAE 75W-90 is the perfect choice for you. It will definately not harm any kind of materials inside the gearbox and will not lead to bad shifting properties.

My car's GB is a C50, thinking it is the C59 was my bad, but the oil is recommended for both GBs confirmed using the oil finder tool on LM's site. The C50 is/was used on some of Toyota's Euro models. So, it is safe for yellow metal parts and it works very well marginally smoother than the OEM "lifetime" lube. But I also add this could be because LM's product is fully synthetic and of course new.

The oil changes color very quickly. This thing didn't happen with Motul and Shell. I have already driven close to 2000kms on the new oil. German made LMs were better in quality, compared to few oils of LM which have been localised.

With Motul/SHU, the engine feels RAW and grunty, with LM, it felt more civilised. Both in terms of smoothness and acceleration

Shashi, about that colour changing bit, judging an oil's performance via visual inspection may not be the best way. IMHO an oil has detergents & should change colour as it mops up sludge and other impurities over time. An oil turning dark is only doing its job.

Incidentally the M1 ESP in my car hardly changed colour and I wasn't quite sure if it is ideal behaviour compared to SHU which was a noticeably darker shade within 2K kms. Other than that M1 5W-30 has been a good experience. Now waiting for Amsoil Signature to show me what it can do after the annual service.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Shashi, about that colour changing bit, judging an oil's performance via visual inspection may not be the best way. IMHO an oil has detergents & should change colour as it mops up sludge and other impurities over time. An oil turning dark is only doing its job.
.

I agree. But I also noticed the engine sound changing a bit after 5000kms of running on the 2nd LM oil(Molygen 5W40). This thing didn't happen with the first LM oil(Leitchlauf 5W40) or Motul X Cess.

Even Dhiraj remarked that the oil had lost its viscosity way too quickly. Either I got a counterfeit oil(chances are less as the Dealer was a close friend and an authorised LM dealer) or the quality has taken a step back.

Anyways, I am happy with Shell Helix Ultra/Motul and not planning to go back to LM atleast for the engine oil bit. For gearoil, I'll give it a shot after some years once the current Motul needs replacement.

Regards,
Shashi

[Leoshashi]

Golden Goose completes a 1600km trip: On the 14th of this month, I had an official trip lined up. While all my colleagues preferred to opt for the Official vehicles appointed for the job, I decided to go solo, and instead took my Old and faithful steed.

Reasons for skipping the official cars:

1. Because we Live to Drive: Always prefer driving, rather than being a passenger.

2. I had my own flexibility with my car. I could leave early morning(love early morning drives), have stops at the local markets as per my wish for chai, fruits and other such stuff. Basically I wanted to be like a free bird.

3. I always wanted to have a long trip with GG, and despite many people doubting my choice of vehicle for these roads, I was more than confident about her.

So here are some pics and stats from the 1600km, 7 days trip. Couldn't click many pics as I was the one driving and this was a solo drive.

GG on the Hazaribagh-Patna Highway



See that white bag? Picked up fresh fruits from a local vendor, and must say, it was lot better than the Supermarket stuff we get being city dwellers. This is the freedom I was looking for!



Somewhere on the Aurangabad-Dhanbad Stretch of the GT Road. After crossing Hazaribagh, I turned left and joined the Itkhori-Chouparan road. The roads are beautiful and almost empty, although beware of the odd speed breakers which appear out of no where and are made by the local people near their settlements. I opted for this scenic route as the roads were infinitely better compared to the Hazaribagh-Barhi Section which is under construction and the surface was appalling to say the least. Also escaped toll booths twice, so why not!



The cemented tarmac





Some roads in Bihar were pathetic. This was near Dehri On Sone, and was supposed to be a National Highway. Thankfully the construction work is on.







After spending 5 days in different districts of Bihar and completing the official work, it was now time for the return leg. I was rushing since I wanted to cross the Chouparan-Itkhori road before sunset. While the roads are great, it's recommended not to cross this section after sunset as this road leads to the infamous Chatra Naxal Belt. By rushing, I was trying to keep a decent pace of 90-100kmph and discontinued my exploration which I was doing earlier.

Checkout the deserted but beautiful Chouparan-Itkhori section. Except few odd bikes, I didn't find any traffic in the 45km stretch.



Race against time: The sun was going down, but had to stop to attend to nature's call.



I always loved the food at authentic Trucker's Dhaba. So skipped all swanky restaurants along the highway and stopped at this place where no personal vehicle ever stopped. I ordered the same food which some Punjabi Trucker's were having, and must say it was delicious. Also opted to sit and eat on the cot, rather than the table. True Desi style.





As I neared Hazaribagh, it started raining cats and dogs. The newly installed Defogger and Rear Wiper came in Handy. Had some personal work at Hazaribagh, hence reached my friend's place and called it a day.



Next day, on the newly laid out stretch of the Ranchi Ringroad. Thanks to this, I don't have to enter the city to reach my house. It takes me directly from BIT More to Kanke Road in less than 10 minutes.



Aspiring BHPian and friend Aditya had called as he wanted to meet me. Obliged.







This is Aditya's 1998 800 STD in a rare Harvest Green shade.



Some stats:

Distance covered: 1644 kms
Fuel Taken: 66.7L
Mileage: 24.64 kmpl

I was impressed by the capabilities of the 19(almost) year old Girl. Never did she complain once, despite the many hardships she endured.

Regards,
Shashi

[Rshrey22]

Shashi Sir,

How did the Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 perform during this trip? Found any noticeable difference?

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by Rshrey22

Shashi Sir,

How did the Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 perform during this trip? Found any noticeable difference?

To put it precisely, I am very happy with Shell Helix Ultra 5W40. Absolutely no complaints, getting good mileage, no perceivable difference in sound. I am loving the way engine is feeling more raw and eager.

Difference is actually very negligible compared to Motul X-Cess 5w40. But where the Shell wins is the superb VFM it has now become, without any perceivable change in engine behaviour.

Regards,
Shashi

PS: Please don't call me "Sir", buddy.

[no_boundaries]

Excellent feat. Your car is a true epitome of how to TLC a car and also put it through its paces.
Really amazes me how with little care these cars can go on and on and be part of so many memories we make along. Reminds me of our beloved and always cherished Madison Blue M800 STD which we ran to 1lakh kms without as much as having any second thoughts before taking it out on our long drives.

My brother and I we grew up to our 6foot frames therefore we had to let go as we couldn't sit behind my dad's driving position and we really didn't have the need for a second car. The Indica experience right after the M800 was a disaster to say the least. That's another story.

Very inspiring thread and I'm always looking forward for your updates.

[shibujp]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Golden Goose completes a 1600km trip: On the 14th of this month, I had an official trip lined up. While all my colleagues preferred to opt for the Official vehicles appointed for the job, I decided to go solo, and instead took my Old and faithful steed.

I was impressed by the capabilities of the 19(almost) year old Girl. Never did she complain once, despite the many hardships she endured.

Regards,
Shashi

The mechanicals and engines of these cars are practically bullet proof. Especially given the way you maintain it, you should be able to take it for a long trip without loosing too much thought over it. Additionally these cars a pretty uncomplicated so all long a few basic checks tlike engine temps, fluid levels etc urn out fine they rarely give you any trouble. The age will take it toll on the rubber pieces but since you have that covered no concerns on that front too.

Drive on,
Shibu.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by shibujp

The mechanicals and engines of these cars are practically bullet proof. Especially given the way you maintain it, you should be able to take it for a long trip without loosing too much thought over it.

I agree! Infact, the bag of common tools and supplies was for any unforseen circumstance like underbody hit, punctures etc. Supplies included M seal, anabond, JB weld etc. Given the roads I had to cross, I was almost certain to get a nasty hit at some place or the other.

Weirdly, the only hit she got was when I least expected. It was after crossing an expansion joint of a dilapidated bridge on GT road. The metal strip bounced back and hit the underbelly, leaving a scratch which was touched up later.

Regards,
Shashi

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by shibujp

Especially given the way you maintain it, you should be able to take it for a long trip without loosing too much thought over it.

Indeed. When I took up the drive on the Golden Quad spanning 6000 kms in 6 days in 2012, my WagonR F10D has clocked 166,000 Km already and all that I did before I took up this journey was checked the fluid levels, steering and brakes and that's all.

Further, we took up this drive in the month of May and even drove continuously for 1750 km non-stop (with usual breaks for food and fuel) passing some of the most hot sections of Rajashthan and with AC working all the time. Never did the car give up. My first AC refrigerant refill was only after 2.2 Lac km after I replaced the condensor. Thankfully even in my Ertiga, the refrigerant remains untouched and the only thing I regularly replace is the Cabin Air filter and cooling hasn't got affected at all at 164,000 Km on the Odo. I like these simple mechanicals and equipment that keep going on and on and one without a fuss.

Its nearly 2.5 Lac kms on the Odo today and I still have the same confidence that I can do this again. Shashi only has to tell us when he is driving down south .

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

Its nearly 2.5 Lac kms on the Odo today and I still have the same confidence that I can do this again. Shashi only has to tell us when he is driving down south .

True. Problem with modern cars getting older is that any small issue with electronics or wiring may be enough to bring a car down completely.

Plus in the long run - Mechanical spares will be easier to source than electrical and electronic ones.

[Rshrey22]

You are still using the old glass type reflector headlamps, thought about upgrading to the clear ones?