[a4anurag]

Quick official trip to Vijayawada

One of the best drives in the Creta I've ever had. Smooth, 4 lane Highway with good weather, not too sunny and medium traffic throughout.

Started from home at 7am. Stopped at Hotel Village Aharam (Organic Restuarant) for breakfast then a non-stop drive to Vijayawada.

Odo at the start


Village Aharam






Summary of the drive from Hyderabad to Vijayawada


Finished work and restarted at 14:00.

Overcast, was expecting rains but not a drop.


Odometer after reaching home


Summary of the whole drive


Maintained speeds between 90-100 kmph, 2 more people onboard. No tiredness whatsoever. Crunches miles like nothing else.

[JoseVijay]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Quick official trip to Vijayawada

One of the best drives in the Creta I've ever had.

Maintained speeds between 90-100 kmph, 2 more people onboard. No tiredness whatsoever. .

That road is a heaven to drive.. By the way how about KMPL?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by JoseVijay

By the way how about KMPL?

Not trip specific though since I don't calculate that way. All calculations are Full tank-to-full tank.

Here are the last two tank FE's achieved.



Full tank done yesterday

[a4anurag]

8mm 2MP 8 LED USB Type C Waterproof Endoscope

Bought a USB OTG Endoscope from AliExpress (wire length I went for is 5m). Had paid ₹611 and got the delivery yesterday after 72 days. Informed the seller and got a partial refund too.



What I paid


Contents


OTG Camera (Endoscope)


LED brightness adjuster


Camera


LED's and camera


LED's at lowest brightness


LED's at highest brightness


Specifications:

• Color: Black
• Material: Metal + plastic
• Cable length: 5M
• Camera head outer diameter: 8mm
• Viewing angle: 67 degrees
• Photo format: JPG
• Photo Resolution: 1280*960, 1280*720, 640*480, 352*288, 320*240, 160*120
• Video format: AVI
• Video resolution: 1280*960, 1280*720, 640*480, 352*288, 320*240, 160*120
• LED lights: 8 (white light, adjustable brightness)
• Interface: USB Type-C
• Use voltage: DC5V
• Waterproof rating: IP67
• Focal length: 4cm (the best)
• Compatible systems: for Andriod/for Windows 2000/XP/Vista/7/8 (Android phones need to support OTG function)

Package includes:

1. 1x USB Type-C Endoscope
2. 1x Side audition
3. 1x Small hook
4. 1x Fixed ring
5. 1x Magnet
6. 1x Iron ring
7. 1x English user manual
8. 1x Type-C to USB adapter

Opened the engine oil filler cap and checked the area using the OTG camera. Here are some images of the same.

[a4anurag]

Some more images in with the OTG endoscope. Got to see the timing chain.











PS: The greenish tinge seen in the images isn't coolant, it is coming off the LED's on the camera.

[a4anurag]

Quick drive to Ananthagiri Hills

Was a short 100 kms drive each way with good roads and decent traffic. Took me 2 hours each way.

Onward Journey

• Started from home at 13:30
• Reached the hills at 15:30

Return Journey

• Started from the hills at 16:30
• Reached home at 18:20

Route Taken



Bowenpally >> Tolichowki >> Bandla Guda >> Moinabad >> Chevella >> Manneguda >> Ananthagiri Hills






















Found this beautiful spot so stopped by to click images of the car

[a4anurag]

On my way to work, got a warning regarding "Low air pressure in Rear Right Tyre" through the SensAiry App. Lost 4 psi in that tyre.

Since I was near my place that I go for Wheel alignment, balancing work, went there and got the Rear Right tyre checked.

See bubbles? That's the point where the puncture is


What came out off the tyre (only 5% was visible outside)


IIRC this is the 2nd puncture since purchase. Since I have MRF STAMP, it covers the price for tubeless puncture repairs (₹ 100).

Current odometer reading: 33,497 kms.

[arindambasu13]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

In the month of August 2017, I had suffered a lower back-related issue that got me bed-ridden for 1 month and 'no driving' for 1.5 months. Post recovery due to my heavy usage, the doctor had advised not to use low-height cars that requires me to crouch for ingress/egress and also not to prefer driving around in low seating vehicles as much as possible. This could aggravate the issue hence the need for a new car came up. Main requirement was car must be tall and should make me 'almost walk in & out' of it rather than crouching as I used in the Swift.

Hi Anurag,

Quoting your first post on this thread.

Could you elaborate a bit on what your back issue was and how the Creta has fared in providing relief for you from this issue? I had a similar back issue (after a slip disc injury) which has made driving for long periods problematic, and I drive a Swift petrol (coincidentally, in the same blue color that you had ). Will be great if you can share some information on this. [You could of course PM me if you prefer sharing details privately]

In my experience, the Swift is better when comparing hatchbacks with low seating heights, i.e. it has a comparatively taller seating better than say a Brio, Polo etc. Also, did you not consider the compact crossovers, e.g. Ecosport, since they also have a taller seating?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by arindambasu13

Also, did you not consider the compact crossovers, e.g. Ecosport, since they also have a taller seating?

No, EcoSport wasn't considered. It was either the S-Cross 1.6, XUV 5OO, Creta 1.6 and Brezza (last option).

Had the DDiS 320 been available during my purchase period, that was the first option I'd go for, but sadly Maruti thought the other way.

Check your PM.

[a4anurag]

Got a FASTag.

Please check here -> https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/street-experiences/179085-fastag-all-you-need-know-about-procuring-using-186.html#post4437950 (FASTag: All you need to know about procuring & using it!)

Current Odometer: 34,201 kms.

[a4anurag]

MODIFICATION #1: Audio Upgrade (Speakers and Amplifier from Swift)

I am shortly upgrading the complete setup from a reputed installer that I'll be visiting in a months time..

Uninstalled the audio setup yesterday and sold it off. Back on stock speakers now temporarily.

Sold the Polk dB+ 6502 components + Polk dB+ 652 coaxials for ₹8,000

Sold the Hertz HCP 4 amplifier + Rockford Fosgate Line Output Convertor for ₹9,000

Upgrade shall happen soon. Excited.

MODIFICATION #3: DIY Install of Dashcam - Viofo A119S V2 (GPS + CPL)

Sold for ₹4,500 almost 1.5 months back.

MODIFICATION #17: DIY Install of Rear Dashcam - DDPai Mini WiFi (1080P FHD)

Sold for ₹4,000 almost 1.5 months back.

Plan to get a dual channel dashcam soon. Researching which one to get.

Shall update the thread when I get all of them in hand.

[a4anurag]

FASTag stuck on the windshield. Will be tested on Thursday when I head to Vijayawada and back and more trips to Bangalore, Mysore, Manipal and Mangalore in the coming weeks.

[a4anurag]

Intake manifold cleaning @ 34,800 kms

I was free, BHPian interc00led was free and so was our FNG so we met at 11:30am and straightaway got down to dismantling the manifold for cleaning. Not a DIY this time.



EGR port into the intake manifold






EGR port into the intake manifold - dismantled from the manifold and NOW BLANKED!














All cleaned and refit


After the manifold was opened and cleaning was in progress, I used the OTG endoscope to check internal condition safely!

[a4anurag]

Intercooler Cleaning @ 35,200 kms

Met BHPian interc00led at our FNG and did the cleaning activity together. It was fairly easy and less labour oriented as removal and refitting the intercooler was easier, thanks to the large and spacious engine bay where one can access the intercooler without the need to remove the bumper completely.

I remember doing the same cleaning activity in my Swift ZDi as a DIY (LINK) (DIY: Cleaning the Intercooler) but that was laborious as I had to remove the bumper etc which can be avoided here plus the Swift had run 70,000+ kms when I had attempted the DIY so the 'Cleaning' part was longer to get rid of all that oil accumulated inside which again was less in the case of my Creta as it was just 35,200 kms.

I shall be doing the same activity at 75,000 kms or so.

****************************

Tools Required:

1. Star screwdriver;
2. Flat head screwdriver;
3. Pliers;
4. Socket set;
5. Soap solution or shampoo;
6. A pan to collect oil and the waste water;
7. Bottle cleaning brush;
8. 1 litre Diesel;
9. 1 litre IPA (Iso Propyl Alcohol).

****************************

Process

• Using the star screwdriver, open the 2 clips holding the air intake plumbing;
• Using a flat head screwdriver loosen the top clamp of the intercooler pipe connecting to the intake manifold and remove it;
• Disconnect the MAF sensor coupler and remove the air filter box, air filter and place aside;
• Using the flat screwdriver remove the bottom clamp and disconnect the bottom pipe;
• Using pliers, remove the wiring harness from its mounting clips on the intercooler;
• Open the top 4 screws holding the upper part of the bumper;
• Go to the left wheel and remove the screw and 3 clips holding the bumper in place;
• Pull out the left part of the bumper carefully (don't exert pressure else the bumper may get damaged) and using 10mm socket remove the 2 bolts that hold the intercooler's top mount;
• Once removed, lift the intercooler from its position and take it out;
• Using 10 mm socket, remove the boost sensor and place it aside;
• After cleaning and drying, repeat the above steps in reverse to refit the intercooler.

****************************

Cleaning Process

• Drain out the oil from the intercooler (I got around 5 ml)
• Pour in diesel and shake so the oil loosens from the surface fins of the intercooler;
• Repeat the above step till diesel coming out is clear;
• Using a shampoo or soap solution + brush clean the pipes and outer part of the intercooler;
• Make a soap solution and pour it inside and shake well and repeat 3 to 4 times;
• Rinse and clean the intercooler and pipes properly till water coming out is clear and not oily;
• Pour in 500 ml diesel inside and shake well;
• Place the intercooler in vertical position to facilitate the draining of the diesel;
• Add around 500 ml IPA so it dries faster;
• Blow air (hot air - if available) for drying process to accelerate.

Images


4 screws to be removed for getting access the top mount of the intercooler (Yellow rectangle highlighted)


Air intake plumbing 2 star screw clips to be removed (marked in yellow rectangle) and the top mount of the intercooler is held by 2 bolts (marked in red)


Air intake plumbing removed


Intercooler seen and easy access after removing the air intake plumbing


Boost pressure sensor


The Intercooler (vertically mounted)


Top pipe and clamp


Bottom pipe and clamp


Both the pipes disconnected


Top pipe removed


Wiring harness clips removed its securing points


Top mount that holds the intercooler (beneath the top part of the bumper)


Intercooler removed from its location


Bottle cleaning brush and soap liquid for cleaning


Cleaning going on (I was cleaning the bottom pipe when the image was taken)


Internal condition when removed for cleaning (fairly clean and hardly any oil after 35,000 kms)


Odometer at the time of the cleaning activity


Intercooler Parts and Part Numbers (Exploded view) from Boodmo

[francis_vaz]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Intake manifold cleaning @ 34,800 kms

There is a lot of soot and oil deposited in the manifold with just 30K kms of ownership. Is it normal for diesel cars or is it because yours is remaped?
My car will complete 25K in sometime, should I get it cleaned up or wait for the 30K service and get it done during the service on a special request.
Same question for the intercooler.

Also is there any way to find out if the intercooler needs cleaning, without removing it?