[PainlessDeath09]

I love that this car is getting the love it deserves and not being disposed like your grandma would have wanted. While I understand her sentiments, being a petrol head myself, I will quote Clarkson and say it is possible to develop a relationship with a car.

Here's to hoping the car sees many more happy miles under your belt!

[Broke_Enthusias]

Greetings to all BHPian's,

Kudos to you @F10D_Estilo for not giving up on your Estilo project. This vehicle comes from a time where a little love and care towards it, translates to many miles of trouble free service. Coming to the metal work on your Estilo, in a perfect world one would acquire replacement patch panels and then have them welded in accordingly. However, given the fact that, despite not having patch panels and making the repair with steel sheets, the work is done in a professional way. The biggest plus being the use of spot welding instead of gas welding.

A humble request to you, is if you could kindly share the contact details of Zahid bhai. Having moved to Hyderabad three years back I am always on the lookout of good contacts for mechanical, electrical and bodywork. Also, having a old vehicle which authorised service centers nowadays frown upon, requires one to maintain a repository of good reliable contacts for the afore mentioned areas of work.

Wishing you the very best with your Estilo project.

Regards,

Broke_Enthisias

[F10D_Estilo]

Originally Posted by Broke_Enthusias

Greetings to all BHPian's,

Kudos to you @F10D_Estilo for not giving up on your Estilo project. This vehicle comes from a time where a little love and care towards it, translates to many miles of trouble free service.

Thank you for your kind words and encouragement @Broke_Enthusias.

Originally Posted by Broke_Enthusias

Coming to the metal work on your Estilo, in a perfect world one would acquire replacement patch panels and then have them welded in accordingly. However, given the fact that, despite not having patch panels and making the repair with steel sheets, the work is done in a professional way. The biggest plus being the use of spot welding instead of gas welding.

I would have taken that route if the entire floorboard was rusted, but in my case, only the front part of the passenger side floorboard was rotten away, So a patch with proper treatment would do just fine IMO.

Originally Posted by Broke_Enthusias

A humble request to you, is if you could kindly share the contact details of Zahid bhai. Having moved to Hyderabad three years back I am always on the lookout of good contacts for mechanical, electrical and bodywork. Also, having a old vehicle which authorised service centers nowadays frown upon, requires one to maintain a repository of good reliable contacts for the afore mentioned areas of work.

Wishing you the very best with your Estilo project.

Regards,

Broke_Enthisias

I am sharing few of my trusty contacts below. Do remember, they are no cheap mechanics by any stretch of the imagination. Feel free to take my name (Red Estilo Salman) for reference when taking older Marutis because they specialize in German cars for the most part and may not entertain older Marutis without a reference. Please do treat them with some respect, as a little bit of respect can improve their workmanship quality considerably IMO.

Mechanic
Mazhar (Teeba Motors)- 8374300803

Pros:
1) Heritage mechanic (Vast Knowledge on older and even imported vehicles)
2) Very Honest
3) Work Ethics
4) Vast Network for parts sourcing.
5) Value for money
6) Good Workmanship

Cons:
1) Employs many young boys for work, which may not appear very professional. (Best to get work done by Farook as he is the most experienced among the bunch)

Conclusion: Highly suggested for cars of any make, especially older German cars.

Body Shop
Zahid: 8978627071

Pros:
1) One of the most experienced denter in Hyderabad (40+ years of Experience)
2) Excellent Workmanship
3) Extremely Knowledgeable
4) Vast Network
5) Very Honest

Cons:
1) Employs a young boy for work, but the boy is exceptionally well-trained.
2) Labor Cost is a bit on the higher side.
3) Takes his own sweet time to get the job done.

Conclusion: Highly Suggested for any body-related work (Including totaled cars), especially German makes.

Arshad: 9550707546

Pros:
1) Cheap Labor (considering you have good bargaining skills)
2) Experienced

Cons:
1) Average Workmanship
2) Sweet Talker (Not a good sign in my opinion)
3) Employs young boys for work
4) Average material quality
5) Not very Honest (Remove all your valuables before handing the vehicle over)

Conclusion: Less Suggested. Can be useful for less critical body-related work with proper precautions.

[F10D_Estilo]

Quick Update on Project Estilo (Fixing Power Windows)

Got my power windows fixed today from Javed bhai of National Door Works located in Masab tank. I visited them on the suggestion of my friendly mechanic, and I got to say, it was a great experience working with them. They seemed to be highly skilled. When I said, all of my power windows were not working, they simply didn't jump to the conclusion like many people in this field. Instead, they checked every single pin of the master switch, every single fuse was checked and then the power window motors were given direct power and that's how they concluded it was a faulty power window motor.

Now that the power window motor was found faulty, the entire window regulator assembly was removed and the motor was disassembled and repaired. When I asked what was wrong with wrong with the motor, he said some part name in local language was faulty, can't remember the name, but I did understand, they wanted to keep it a secret as there are not many people who know about repairing power window motors. But based on my observations, it looked like he fiddled with the brush inside the motor and cut the original positive terminal of the motor, pealed the wire and gave it a new connection and Voila, the motor came back to life as energetic as ever. Then the entire window regulator assembly was fitted back to the vehicle. The same was done for all the 4 windows. Also the master power window switch was replaced with a new one, which I ordered from Boodmo as the driver windows switch of the old one was broken. As per javed bhai, anything other than a burnt switch can be repaired but since the switch was already bought long ago, I had no option but to replace it.

When operating the power window, they found the windows not sliding up and down smoothly, so they told to me to get a can of silicone spray from a nearby parts store. I bought a can of it and it was sprayed on all 4 window tracks. Also, the regulator track was lubricated by used engine oil, I believe, which is the only part that I didn't like. Now my power windows feel much more smoother and faster.

I was initially quoted for Rs. 1500 per window, but after some bargaining, I was charged about Rs. 1125 per window, totaling to Rs. 4500, which seems quite reasonable to me. All in all, it was a positive experience overall, and I would suggest them to anyone willing to get their power window fixed in Hyderabad.

Now that the power windows are out of the way, I have found that the AC evaporator water is leaking inside the cabin wetting my entire passenger side floor (Probably the reason why my passenger side floor was rusted). Now this is probably going to be another expensive fix (Just Project car things). I will update on that later when I get it fixed. Meanwhile, enjoy some pictures I took of the window fixing process.

Door cards removed to remove the window regulators



Window regulator assembly along with the disassembled motor



Javed bhai's assistant in action



Silicone spray I got in the local market

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by F10D_Estilo

[I have found that the AC evaporator water is leaking inside the cabin wetting my entire passenger side

These problems are often caused by a blocked drain in the AC evaporator housing. See if you can figure out where the drain is and you might be able to poke a piece of wire through or blow some compressed air.

On some cars it can be next to impossible to get at the AC drain, e.g.my Jaguar, but I have had success with several other ones.

If the evaporator needs to come out that is always a big job, often involving having to remove the whole or at least part of the dashboard.

Good luck
Jeroen

Good luck

[F10D_Estilo]

Dual Tone Horn Installation on Zen Estilo

How it all started

My original single meek horn decided to let go after serving me for what I believe to be 12 years. What’s the fun in replacing it with the same single meek horn? I already had a very great experience with dual horns on my discover, so I decided to upgrade the Estilo with the same.
I bought myself a pair of wind tone horns by PIAA Valeo and a Uno Minda HBA (Three Pin) Horn relay from my trusty parts store and headed to my mechanic, where he wired it using wiring from old harnesses. The placement of the horns is actually what was bugging me during the install and till yesterday. One was placed in the stock location; the other one was fastened to the front right suspension stud and the relay was jammed in between front upper braces. It looked weird and felt like a completely jugad job. What I hated the most was the fact that one of the horns wouldn’t work randomly sometimes and also during rain. But I can’t blame him completely. He did his best with the limited materials he had. But I wanted a clean install. So, I decided to do it myself.
Dual horn installation done by my mechanic

Since this is the first time I am wiring a horn, please let me know of my mistakes or improvements that can be made so that I can rectify them myself and other fellow readers can benefit

Circuit understanding:

1) As the name HBS relay implies, HBS stands for Horn, Battery and Switch.
2) There are three connections in an HBS relay: Horn connection, Battery Connection and Switch connection.
3) Horn connection should be given to the positive terminal of the horns.
4) Negative terminal of the horns can be connected to any bolt on the chassis (we’ll use the horn bracket bolt as ground).
5) Battery connection should be given directly to the positive terminal of the battery.
6) Switch connection should be given to the negative terminal of our old horn terminal.

Raw materials required

Bracket making procedure

1) Cut GI plate 1 in the following dimension: 25mm width X 75mm length
2) Drill first hole using 10.8 HSS drill bit at 17mm
3) Drill second hole using 5.8 HSS drill bit at 65mm
4) Cut GI plate 2 in the following dimension: 25mm width X 200mm length
5) Drill first hole using 5.8 HSS drill bit at 45mm
6) Drill second hole using 5.8 HSS drill bit at 100mm
7) Drill third hole using 5.8 HSS drill but at 165mm
8) Make sure to over drill all the holes so that the bolts can go in and out of the holes freely.

Plate 1


Plate 2

Horn Sub assembly Procedure

Assembling the bracket and relay
1) Crimp the M6 ring terminal to one end of the black wire.
2) Match the bolt holes of Plate 1 at 65mm and Plate 2 at 100mm.
3) Fasten the horn relay, the two plates at the above locations and the ring terminal respectively using one M6 X 20 bolt and one M6 Flange nut.
4) Fasten the horn to the holes at 45mm and 165mm of plate 2 using the provided nuts in the horn kit.

Routing and connection of horn ground circuit
1) Route a black wire through the negative terminals of the horn and identify where the insulation of the wire needs to be removed.
2) Now that we have identified the locations to be stripped, strip the outer insulation of the wire and crimp the female terminal to the copper wire at the identified locations.
3) Cover the terminals and some of the wire with insulation tape.
4) Connect the terminals to the negative male terminal of the horn.

Bracket with Relay and ground routing

Routing and connection of positive horn circuit
1) Route a short length of red wire through the positive terminals of the horn and the H terminal of the relay and identify the locations where the insulations of the wire should be stripped.
2) Strip the insulation on the wire at the identified locations and crimp the female terminal to the copper wire at the identified locations except for the relay end.
3) Cover the terminals and some of the wire with insulation tape.
4) Connect the terminals to the positive male terminal of the horn.
5) Connect the relay end of the wire to the H terminal of the relay by loosening the star screw on the relay, then winding the wire on the screw and tightening it back.

Horn circuit routing


Connection of the Switch wire to the relay
1) Cut a small piece of the red wire enough to connect the relay and the factory horn connector.
2) Crimp the male terminal to one end of the wire.
3) Cover the terminals and some of the wire with insulation tape. (Highlighted in green in image)
4) Connect the other end of the wire to the S terminal of the relay as mentioned before.(Highlighted in green in image)

Connection of battery wire to the relay
1) Take the remaining 2.5 meters red wire and crimp the ring terminal to one end of the wire. (Highlighted in Blue in image)
2) Connect the other end of the wire to the B terminal of the relay as mentioned before. (Highlighted in blue in image)

Switch wire and Battery wire

Installing and wiring the Horn sub assembly in the car.

Installing Horn Sub assembly to the factory mounting point
1) Remove wire connections from the old horn and unbolt the stock horn from the car
2) Install the new horn sub assembly to the same location as the old horn by matching the holes of the bracket to the mounting holes on the chassis and fasten it using the factory bolts.

Safety protocol
Remove any terminal of the battery such that it doesn’t come in contact with the battery

Switch circuit connection
1) Connect the male terminal coming from the S terminal of the relay to the negative connector of the factory horn connector
2) Route and tuck the wire such that wires are not visible for an aesthetically pleasing look.

Switch male connection to stock horn connector

Battery circuit connection
1) Fasten the ring terminal coming from the B terminal of the relay to the positive terminal of your battery by using an M6 bolt.
2) Route and tuck the wire such that wires are not visible for an aesthetically pleasing look.

Battery end connection given to positive pole of battery

Connect the removed terminal of the battery and check for proper functioning of horn.

Final Result

[Ravi Parwan]

This is a nice and simple yet effective way of getting 2 tone horn installed. There are 2 things you should maybe implement in this that could enhance safety and longevity.

1) Please try and use Heat shrink tube to retain the insulation on the horn and relay terminals since the normal electric insulation tape could lose its adhesive over time and unravel, due to the heat, water and wind.
2) Do get your GI frame primed and painted otherwise it will rust quite badly and cause issues 2-3 years down the line.

[F10D_Estilo]

Originally Posted by Ravi Parwan

This is a nice and simple yet effective way of getting 2 tone horn installed. There are 2 things you should maybe implement in this that could enhance safety and longevity.

1) Please try and use Heat shrink tube to retain the insulation on the horn and relay terminals since the normal electric insulation tape could lose its adhesive over time and unravel, due to the heat, water and wind.
2) Do get your GI frame primed and painted otherwise it will rust quite badly and cause issues 2-3 years down the line.

I highly appreciate the idea. I had thought about heat shrink tubing myself, but I was unable to find heat shrink in the local market, and what's online was expensive, so I thought I'd try to do my level best with insulation tape.

Regarding the GI frame priming, I have a visit scheduled with my welder soon, so I thought I might coat it with oxide coating then. This could do the job just fine in the meantime.

[Ravi Parwan]

Originally Posted by F10D_Estilo

I highly appreciate the idea. I had thought about heat shrink tubing myself, but I was unable to find heat shrink in the local market, and what's online was expensive, so I thought I'd try to do my level best with insulation tape.
....

Yes, most listings are on the exorbitant side. However, if you go for a single size mass order, you can get a decent deal which should serve you for a while. (Mass order means a couple of meters)

[shaheenazk]

Dual Tone Horn Installation on Zen Estilo

My original single meek horn decided to let go after serving me for what I believe to be 12 years.


You should opt for a 4-pin relay — it's the standard and recommended type for installing dual-tone or aftermarket horns.

✅ Why 4-Pin Is Better for Horns
Better Control: You get separate paths for the trigger (horn switch) and power to horn, ensuring clean operation.

Proper Grounding: You control the ground point for the relay coil (pin 85), which improves performance and safety.

Improved Reliability: With dual-tone horns pulling high current, a 4-pin relay handles the circuit more cleanly and reduces the risk of overheating or backfeed.

🔧 4-Pin Relay Pinout for Horn Setup
Pin Connects To
30 Battery +ve (via fuse)
87 Horn(s) +ve terminal
85 Ground (chassis or battery -ve)
86 Horn switch output (original horn wire)

🛠️ Bottom Line
Go with a 4-pin relay for proper power isolation and safer high-current delivery to your horns.

Avoid 3-pin relays — they cut corners and often depend on chassis grounding, which can lead to unreliable horn operation.