[f1fan]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Snowhites clutch also engages at the end, from day one, so dont know if its really an issue or not. Car is reaching 38k kms and clutch seems to be ok till now.

Thanks Jaggu bhai for the re-assurance. I had shown the same to MASS earlier but they had their regular answer ready "It is normal".

[Manu0611]

Hi Everyone !!
I am new to team-bhp. New in the sense I've joined the forum recently and this is my first post. Although I have been a regular reader of multiple the threads for past an year or so.

I have booked Swift VDi last month, for which undoubtedly I would give the credit to the informative threads on the forum. The dealer did inform me about the 2 month long wait period which did not seem to be long enough at the booking as it is now . Anyways but thats worth a wait period for the magic machine.

I am due to get the delivery of my Silky Silver VDi this month. I would like to request the gurus to please give some tips about the run-in period so that I'm able to treat the much awaited desire in the best possible way. Also if anyone can provide pointers to relative threads would be of great help.

I currently own a Maruti 800 which I have been driving for the past 8 years or so. Since I would switching from a petrol drive to a diesel drive any tips on that are also welcome.

P.S. - I was about to book the Swift Petrol but switched to the Diesel after I became a regular reader of the Swift D threads/posts. Thanks to all you guys out there.

[kuttapan]

You will need to make the following adjustments.
1. Removing your foot pedal from the clutch gets the car going, unless you are on an incline.
2. When braking/reducing speed, say from 60-40 in 5th gear, the ECU will speed up the engine a bit to make sure you don't stall. Let that not surprise you, it is normal. Change to a lower gear.
3. In traffic, beware of the turbo surge, until you get accustomed to it.
4. Do a normal running in, just make sure you don't lug the engine, nor take it to too high rpms. I recommend changing gears at 2000-2200 rpm. Of course, you could change at lower rpms too.
5. Do not brake very hard for the first few 100 kms.
6. This is debatable, but I recommend idling for 30 seconds before a morning start and before shut-off, if the vehicle has been doing highway speeds for a while.
7. Lastly, do not drive at a constant speed/rpm. Keep varying speed for the initial 1000 km.

[Thad E Ginathom]

5. Do not brake very hard for the first few 100 kms.

!

I know what you mean, of course, but still couldn't help a giggle at this one.

idling before and after driving is, I think, not debatable, but recommended in the manual. Something to do with the lubricant in the turbo.

[Manu0611]

Originally Posted by kuttapan

You will need to make the following adjustments.
1. Removing your foot pedal from the clutch gets the car going, unless you are on an incline.
2. When braking/reducing speed, say from 60-40 in 5th gear, the ECU will speed up the engine a bit to make sure you don't stall. Let that not surprise you, it is normal. Change to a lower gear.
3. In traffic, beware of the turbo surge, until you get accustomed to it.

While going through all these threads, plenty of times have read about the turbo surge. Seems like this turbo thing is pretty much significant for the people from petrol driving to diesel ones, especially DDIS i guess (correct me if I'm wrong here).

But during the test drive I could not feel the surge much when in middle of traffic. Although the turbo boost on reaching 2k RPM was very much evident. Does it depend on vehicle to vehicle?? I sincerely hope that I don't sound stupid.

[Jaggu]

If you modulate the accelerator instead of stomping on it, turbo lag can be managed to a GREAT extent.

Regarding idling, especially if you have done high rpm runs on a highway, let the engine and turbo idle atleast for 2 minute or more. This will help reduce chances of, what is known as caking of oil on turbo bearing.

[Manu0611]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

If you modulate the accelerator instead of stomping on it, turbo lag can be managed to a GREAT extent.

Regarding idling, especially if you have done high rpm runs on a highway, let the engine and turbo idle atleast for 2 minute or more. This will help reduce chances of, what is known as caking of oil on turbo bearing.

Thanx Jaggu !!
Idling the engine AND TURBO.. Couldn't get it.. Help me understand Turbo Idling..

[kuttapan]

Originally Posted by Manu0611

Thanx Jaggu !!
Idling the engine AND TURBO.. Couldn't get it.. Help me understand Turbo Idling..

The turbo consists of a turbine which spins in excess of 100000 rpms and if shut off at that rpm, it is deprived of oil. Idling allows the turbo to come back to normal rpms, where shutting off the engine is not detrimental.

[Manu0611]

Wow more than 100000 rpms.. sounds gret.. can't wait any longer to experience the turbo thing.. but i guess i will have to wait for another 1000 kms even after i get the car for the turbo.

Is the idling required always or you guys are talking just during the run-in period. 2 mins of idling would mean real patience isn't it !!

[Jaggu]

Normal city drives i idle for around 5-10 sec's but would have anyway come down to 1200 rpm for the previous 1 minute for parking. But on a highway while doing prolonged runs, i just leave the engine running for 2-3 minutes before i shut down. Yes runnin in period, or atleast the first 300-400 kms it will be a good idea to have lil more patience.

[Manu0611]

Hey Guys !!
All set to take the delivery of my car early next week!! Got a call from my dealer telling that he has arranged for it much earlier than the claimed wait period of 2 months (hope he stands up to this )

Anyhow.. Made the down payment yesterday..
I checked the remote locking for my VDi yesterday at the dealer. It was the same as one fitted in ZXi, brand - Nippon. It would cost Rs. 5350.
I read about some warranty getting void issues here so am a bit concerned. Please suggest should I go for the MGA remote locking or should get it retro-fitted? Comments on the pricing would also be appreciated.

[Jaggu]

If you dont chop the wires/connector there shouldnt be any issue with warranty. If the price difference is huge, it makes sense to get a after market unit.

[king_julian]

Hi Jaggu,

I have a question on braking with the VDi - probably due to my inexperience with diesel cars! I used to drive a Zen and I got into the habit of applying only the brake to stop (or slow) the car, and applying the clutch at the last possible moment, when the car has almost stopped, to prevent stalling. But in the VDi I see that I need to apply the clutch quite a bit sooner - otherwise I feel as though the engine torque is trying to overpower the brake causing some vibrations and an overall feeling of unease Is this normal for torquey diesels? (I have a non-ABS VDi)

Thanks,
Amit.

P.S.: I am a big fan of this and the other long term VDi threads!

[Thad E Ginathom]

When driving very slowly in first or second gear, I'd agree that the brake is slowing the car against the engine's desire to make it go faster.

The only difference I've noticed with the Swift is that, on the flat, it is really really difficult to stall, as the ICU seems to increase the revs as one engages the clutch; one can move off gently without pressing the accelerator.

[NFS2024]

Folks - Got my new Swift VDi a couple of weeks ago in ten days flat. Have already done about 650+ kms and run-in as suggested by gurus here. Got the new Ritz OEM alloys (looks good) and Michelin 185/70 tyres from Tyre professionals (thanks to Nikhil). Love the way car runs.

Please answer the below queries.

1. I feel there is a lack of turbo whoosh or the acceleration is quite linear. I mean i feel it sometimes only and not always when I hit 2k rpm (or is it my mind playing havoc?)

2. Which is a good service centre in south bangalore? My previous experience with mandovi on Bannerghatta road was OK.

Appreciate your inputs.