[Digital Vampire]

Originally Posted by anandpadhye

If the Tucson is unused for more than 3 days or so, when I start it, I experience severe retardation when I lift my foot off the Accelrator.

Is your brake sticking by any chance due to rust on the discs?

Do you have a car wash guy pouring water over the discs everyday? Also if the climate is moist, rust can form on the discs within a day itself.

Also try a diesel additive/injector cleaner before doing any extensive debug. I've used additives from Abro as well as Cyclo 6XT and found the vehicle to run a lot smoother and more fuel efficient.

Just came after an ~1200km round trip journey. Got an average 18kmpl (with Abro Diesel additive) for the onward journey and 14kmpl (without additive) for the return journey. Both mileages measured via OBD.

Also Ultrasonic cleaning of the Injectors helps restore vehicle performance dramatically. AFAIK Hyundai does not recommend it, but ask them to remove the injectors and take it to a reputed Bosch service center which has an ultrasonic bath and fuel injector calibrator. IIRC, costs around Rs.1000 per injector plus R&R charges.

[shankar.balan]

in most cases yes, but sometimes in case the cells are excessively weak, the car electrics can kick the bucket which includes the pump and fuel injection system.

in any case, here, our friend Anand seems to have changed his battery.
what about the ECU itself? Could that be faulty?

Originally Posted by Guna

But once the engine is started the electric power is continuously generated by the alternator. That is why even a car with dead battery, once stated (by push or jump starting) never stalls.

[anandpadhye]

Originally Posted by Guna

But once the engine is started the electric power is continuously generated by the alternator. That is why even a car with dead battery, once stated (by push or jump starting) never stalls.

That's what I thought.

Originally Posted by Digital Vampire

Is your brake sticking by any chance due to rust on the discs?

Do you have a car wash guy pouring water over the discs everyday? Also if the climate is moist, rust can form on the discs within a day itself.

Also try a diesel additive/injector cleaner before doing any extensive debug. I've used additives from Abro as well as Cyclo 6XT and found the vehicle to run a lot smoother and more fuel efficient.

Just came after an ~1200km round trip journey. Got an average 18kmpl (with Abro Diesel additive) for the onward journey and 14kmpl (without additive) for the return journey. Both mileages measured via OBD.

Also Ultrasonic cleaning of the Injectors helps restore vehicle performance dramatically. AFAIK Hyundai does not recommend it, but ask them to remove the injectors and take it to a reputed Bosch service center which has an ultrasonic bath and fuel injector calibrator. IIRC, costs around Rs.1000 per injector plus R&R charges.

Nobody washes my car, I do it whenever I get time, may be once a month.

And your Tuc has OBD/MFD showing fuel consumption???
I will in general get injectors cleaned by whatver way the Hyundai recommends, let's see how it goes. No idea of a capable Bosch center here, unfortunately.

Originally Posted by shankar.balan

in most cases yes, but sometimes in case the cells are excessively weak, the car electrics can kick the bucket which includes the pump and fuel injection system.

in any case, here, our friend Anand seems to have changed his battery.
what about the ECU itself? Could that be faulty?

I don't think so - though theoretically, anything is possible.


BTW, update:
Last time I experienced this retardation was around 8 days ago and I checked the oil level - it was well below the "L" mark (remember this was a morning check after 3 idle days). I immediately took it to te Oil Dealer and topped up with 1L of Mobil Delvac 1, checked the oil level next morning - it was mid-way between "H" and "L". Again the Tuc was parked unused for 6/7 days and before starting it again, I wanted all opinions so posted this query on Saturday afternoon. No conclusive suggestion came in by Saturday evening when I had to use the Tuc so I checked the oil level - it was right mid-way between "H" and "L", started it and found no retardation (remember this was a start after a gap of 6/7 days)!

So looks like very low oil level can cause such retardation for first few KM after a very cold start (?) In a way makes sense, as after first few KM, oil is well circulated and retardation goes away, and all the oil may not return to sump just overnight so no retardation every morning either. After a gap of 3 days or more, may be that all the oil is back in sump (?), cylinder liners and piston rings are bone dry and if oil level is very very low at that time, it may take few km's for oil to reach all parts and lubcricate them so retardation occurs during this window?

Cheers!

[Digital Vampire]

Originally Posted by anandpadhye

And your Tuc has OBD/MFD showing fuel consumption???

Nope.. AFAIK, Tucson never came with a MFD in India...Not so sure about the post 2006 models though.

I started monitoring vital parameters (Engine Load, Coolant Temperature, GPS Speed, Vehicle Speed, Instantaneous KPL, Average KPL...) via a Bluetooth OBD adapter linked to a Galaxy Tab running Torque or via Dashcommand during my long trips. Doubles up as a superb navigation aid too.

[anandpadhye]

Hi Guys,

It's time to celebrate the third anniversary of the Tucson.
It was in December 2008 that the Tucson came home.

Since then more than 40,000 KM have passed...the ODO is now beyond 1 lakh km.

Here is a picture of the Tucson, from the first trip 3 years ago - taken near Longewala, Rajasthan (where the epic battle was faought in 1971).

[anandpadhye]

Finally...the problem of heavy clutch pedal was fixed today.

Asked the ASC to completely replace the clutch fluid, and what a magic! The clutch pedal has become very light.

As usual they tried to convince me saying this is never required, only top up is recommended and routine clutch bleeding will do. I insisted that every drop of existing clutch fluid should be drained and replaced with new. Then they said, this can create complications - ABS calibration may go for a toss, the brake pedal may get buried into the floor and it's tedious to adjust it...blah blah...I stood my ground and they finally drained whole of it and filled in brand new DOT 3. And since then I have driven around 50 km in Pune traffic and over all kinds of speed breakers and all and my left knee has nothing to complain.

This has been the best thing I have done to my Tuc so far.

And I have been wondering why the hell they don't do it regularly! Why was I driving with a sore left leg for around 2 years!!!

The Tucson takes less than half a liter of the clutch/brake fluid. So with Rs. 143 for the fluid and for Rs. 255 for labour, I am happily driving around in the S-U-V.

Cheers!

[Digital Vampire]

According to HASS lubrication charts/schedule, Brake/Clutch fluid should be replaced every 30K/40K kms.

I hope they bled the system correctly after replacement of the clutch/brake fluid. It is a 2-person job and will take around 60 mins.

Each wheel's brake need to be bled individually (Also needs G-Scan Diagnostics Computer simultaneously to activate ABS) and also Clutch bleeding.
I've recently seen some new brake bleeding device that has landed in the HSCs here which I've heard will do a better job.

[sam.666]

Originally Posted by anandpadhye

Finally...the problem of heavy clutch pedal was fixed today.

Then they said, this can create complications - ABS calibration may go for a toss,

This has been the best thing I have done to my Tuc so far

Cheers!

Hi anandpadhye

Even i recently acquired a pre-worshipped Tuc in Oct '11. The froggy had done 64k kms till then. By now the odo nears 74k - Thats a healthy run i guess.. Haha

The heavy clutch seems almost genetic to this Korean soft roader, having driven three other vehicles in my previous years.

But, seeing how you have come to be the go-to guy for for Tuc trivia, shall be getting the clutch bled as you did during next service. What do i watch out for? And how to ensure it was done correctly and not just topped up?

Aside, the deep green girl has been giving starting problems. Shall post more following your reply.

And Thanks a lot, your posts here had partly helped when i was in two minds about buying mine!

[anandpadhye]

Originally Posted by Digital Vampire

According to HASS lubrication charts/schedule, Brake/Clutch fluid should be replaced every 30K/40K kms.

I hope they bled the system correctly after replacement of the clutch/brake fluid. It is a 2-person job and will take around 60 mins.

Each wheel's brake need to be bled individually (Also needs G-Scan Diagnostics Computer simultaneously to activate ABS) and also Clutch bleeding.
I've recently seen some new brake bleeding device that has landed in the HSCs here which I've heard will do a better job.

Hi Anoop,
Sorry missed your reply somehow.
In my case, they just unscrewed the end of the slave cylinder and allowed it to drain. This may not have completely drained the fluid, I also think. The brake circuit would have been left out. Also, I was a little surprized to see that less than 500 ml went in (they opened 0.5 L bottle and it still has considerable amount left in)!!!

I think I will try to get brake and clutch circuits drained completely once again - and check how complex it is to drain the brake path...

BTW, the manual mentions DOT3/DOT4. So any one is OK? They used DOT3 in my case.

Originally Posted by sam.666

Hi anandpadhye

Even i recently acquired a pre-worshipped Tuc in Oct '11. The froggy had done 64k kms till then. By now the odo nears 74k - Thats a healthy run i guess.. Haha

The heavy clutch seems almost genetic to this Korean soft roader, having driven three other vehicles in my previous years.

But, seeing how you have come to be the go-to guy for for Tuc trivia, shall be getting the clutch bled as you did during next service. What do i watch out for? And how to ensure it was done correctly and not just topped up?

And Thanks a lot, your posts here had partly helped when i was in two minds about buying mine!

Thanks.
Congrats on your purchase.
Yes, the heavy clutch (and overall crap gear-ratios) play the spoil-sport in the Tuc.

In my case, I was unaware of what is involved so came back happy when they simply drained the slave cylinder. Looking at what Anoop mentioned, I am thinking this should be done again. I will also check how much brake fluid the Tuc is supposed to consume.

BTW, to be honest, I drove the Tuc again and my left knee started paining, so this clutch fluid replacement may be "placebo"... (unless I redo it the proper way and see a lasting change).

I will try this next week or so and post the results!

Cheers!

[Digital Vampire]

Tucson Brake/Clutch fluid replacement consumes two 500ml DOT3/DOT4 cans with around 100-200ml remaining in the second can...

Your "knee pain" problem needs to be looked at more thoroughly; may be when you visit BLR...As I've said before, I always replaced my Tuc's clutch to remove the clatter sound and not because it was too hard. It is hard but was never too hard to cause any knee pain.

[anandpadhye]

Originally Posted by Digital Vampire

Tucson Brake/Clutch fluid replacement consumes two 500ml DOT3/DOT4 cans with around 100-200ml remaining in the second can...

Hmmm...so in my case, more than half of the old fluid is still left inside???

[Digital Vampire]

Originally Posted by anandpadhye

Hmmm...so in my case, more than half of the old fluid is still left inside???

Unfortunately, YES and the process needs to be re-done...If you wish, you can plan to do that "PROPERLY" during your BLR visit... But more importantly you need to bleed the excess air out before you embark on any long drives. From what you've mentioned, I'm hazarding a guess that your ASC for unexceptionable reasons does not seem to have done that important step!

[anandpadhye]

Originally Posted by Digital Vampire

But more importantly you need to bleed the excess air out before you embark on any long drives. From what you've mentioned, I'm hazarding a guess that your ASC for unexceptionable reasons does not seem to have done that important step!

OK, so what are the symptoms - of having excess air left inside? Does it deteriorate during a long drive?

Now you see how important it is that we meet?

[Digital Vampire]

Air bubble Symptoms - Spongy brakes and pedals which dives to the floor without much resistance...this could happen at random!

I'm not sure whether a long drive deteriorates the issue but I'd highly suggest you get it checked before any high speed drive... Better to be safe than sorry!

Missed to answer your previous question: YES you can use DOT-3 or DOT-4 fluids... DOT-4 is almost twice expensive and rejects moisture absorption drastically...Corrosive brake lines (iron pipes) will like DOT-4 for their better moisture rejection properties.

Meet: Feb it is! Confirmed!

[BREAK FREE]

[quote=Digital Vampire;2656055]Many thanks for really valuable info about the Tucson. I own a 2007 Tucson with 45k kms on the odo. Mostly driven locally in Bangalore.

I am now experiencing the hard clutch and resulting left knee work out on a daily basis.

I am on a serious hunt for a solution to fix this. I get my Tucson serviced at either of the 2 big dealer ASC in Bangalore Cantonment or Seshadripuram.

At my last service visit the advisor suggested a full replacement of the clutch shebang. I am a total novice in this area and will appreciate any advice and help. Thanks in advance.