[procrj]

Originally Posted by rajesh1868

For LPG - In city drive it used to be between 9-11. In highways it was, consistently 12.8
Highway FE has reduced to around 11. Im not too concerned about LPG figures.

Now petrol is giving about 11-12 in highways

I drive a WagonR duo and my FE figures are:
LPG - City (50-60% AC) - 11.5-12.5 KMPL
Petrol - City (50-60% AC) - 12-13 KMPL
Petrol - Highway (75-80% AC) - 15-16 KMPL assuming that the terrain is almost flat

As suggested by Parag do get the different parts checked and also check your air filter. I faced a similar issue last year. Moved to a K&N filter and got the throttle body cleaned and the FE was back to normal.

[anandjha]

First major trouble. After around 7 years and approx 99,500 km of ownership. It started with non-responsive accelerator. But the car was moving comfortably. I was in the middle of heavy evening traffic little before a tri-junction. Planned to stop the car for after crossing it.

And then all of a sudden the engine roars. The rpm needle is stuck at 7000. Shifted to neutral and cautiously coast the car to the roadside.

At the other end of the accelerator, the wire is loose. Fortunately I am able to locate a mechanic at the Petrol Pump on the other side of the road. He fiddles with it, first tightening the wire and then discovers that the lever is stuck (though when I had checked it, it was rotating). Couple of strikes by pliers frees it. Within 10 minutes the car is moving again as if nothing had happened.

The service centre is clueless what could have caused it. Could you please help me out what could be the reason?

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by anandjha

First major trouble. After around 7 years and approx 99,500 km of ownership. It started with non-responsive accelerator. But the car was moving comfortably. I was in the middle of heavy evening traffic little before a tri-junction. Planned to stop the car for after crossing it.

And then all of a sudden the engine roars. The rpm needle is stuck at 7000. Shifted to neutral and cautiously coast the car to the roadside.

At the other end of the accelerator, the wire is loose. Fortunately I am able to locate a mechanic at the Petrol Pump on the other side of the road. He fiddles with it, first tightening the wire and then discovers that the lever is stuck (though when I had checked it, it was rotating). Couple of strikes by pliers frees it. Within 10 minutes the car is moving again as if nothing had happened.

The service centre is clueless what could have caused it. Could you please help me out what could be the reason?

There is a screw on the throttle body where the other end of the accelerator cable ends. This can become loose and cause the Accelerator pedal to go dead (No RPM Increase when floored).

For a car with a throttle cable, don't refer this as a "Major trouble".

Its also a good time to get the cable thoroughly checked and if required replace it too!

If the RPMs are stuck, it means that the cable is not moving to its "Zero" position and that also means something is holding it back.

It can only be a damaged cable as I guess. The clamp on the throttle body is directly linked to the to butterfly valve inside the body and has a good quality spring that in turn helps the cable back to zero position when you release the throttle.

Only a stuck lever along with butterfly valve can cause RPM to get stuck in your case.

So ideally, inspect the cable first and then check the functioning of butterfly valve on the throttle body.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by anandjha

Couple of strikes by pliers frees it. Within 10 minutes the car is moving again as if nothing had happened.

The service centre is clueless what could have caused it. Could you please help me out what could be the reason?

My first bet and the main point for concentration will be the cable.

The cable is the part that generally act funny at times. They create the problem and after a couple of tries on them to repair they are fine.

Originally Posted by paragsachania

So ideally, inspect the cable first and then check the functioning of butterfly valve on the throttle body.

Anurag.

[anandjha]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

There is a screw on the throttle body where the other end of the accelerator cable ends. This can become loose and cause the Accelerator pedal to go dead (No RPM Increase when floored).

For a car with a throttle cable, don't refer this as a "Major trouble".

Originally Posted by a4anurag

My first bet and the main point for concentration will be the cable.

The cable is the part that generally act funny at times. They create the problem and after a couple of tries on them to repair they are fine.

Thanks. Yes the cable had loosened but at the same time that lever on the other end of the cable had also got stuck (had come forward) thereby revving up the engine at 7000 rpm. The service centre guy is unable to find anything wrong. But as suggested I would also request him to thoroughly check the cable.

I called it major trouble it had me stuck on road. But thanks for clarifying that it ain't a big deal. My mind is at peace. Thanks.

[anandjha]

Crossed a milestone. But quite surprisingly my thoughts are more about biking these days. Recalling nostalgically various trips with my Yamaha RX 100. As of now I am completely besotted with Thunderbird 500.

[anandjha]

Since yesterday evening, whenever my car picks up in the 1st gear and in the 2nd gear while releasing the clutch at low speeds I am hearing a sound which is a combination of screech and kat kat. The mileage with 100% AC in city traffic with fair amount of open roads is also decent - around 14.

Please help me know the reason? Thanks.

[ritz3645]

Hi everyone, my 2006 Wagonr Lxi with 58k is having low braking - problem.
Fng cleaned and sanded front brakes and is of the view that brake booster needs to be replaced.

any advise on cost and trouble shooting please.

[saket77]

Originally Posted by ritz3645

Hi everyone, my 2006 Wagonr Lxi with 58k is having low braking - problem.
Fng cleaned and sanded front brakes and is of the view that brake booster needs to be replaced.

any advise on cost and trouble shooting please.

The brake booster for Wagon-R will cost about 3-3.5K

My advice will be to change it once fully established that the booster is at fault.

For that, first get the brake bleeding done, after changing the brake fluids if it is over 2 years old. If the color of the fluid has changed/ deteriorated, flush it out regardless of the days used.

Secondly, get the calipers greased. Check condition of the brake shoes/ pads. Also check if the rear wheel cylinders are not leaking or jammed up. This is a very common problem.

Check the vacuum pipe which connects the engine vacuum to the brake booster. There is a one-way valve (called check valve) inside which serves as the 'power' of the booster in power braking systems. Blowing through the pipe and air should pass freely from one end, while it should be blocked from another.

Finally to test the booster, start the car and then turn it off after a few seconds. Remember not to press the brake pedal until this step. Then press the brake pedal a few times until the pedal becomes hard. Then press & hold the pedal and start the engine at the same instance. The pedal should sink in a little, indicating that the booster is working properly.

Again run the engine & turn if off after a few seconds. Press & hold the pedal down. There should not be any upward movement in the pedal while you keep it held down.

Do let us know how it went.

Regards,
Saket

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by anandjha

Since yesterday evening, whenever my car picks up in the 1st gear and in the 2nd gear while releasing the clutch at low speeds I am hearing a sound which is a combination of screech and kat kat. The mileage with 100% AC in city traffic with fair amount of open roads is also decent - around 14.

Please help me know the reason? Thanks.

The "Kat Kat" sound could be the normal sound associated with the F10D WagonRs and even the F8D ALTOs and I suspect its is coming from the clutch.

It becomes more evident when you are crawling in B2B traffic and all of a sudden the AC Compressor kicks-in resulting in this sound along with a bit of judder - Next time, try checking if the noise reduces with the AC off.

Other than this, I would like to know if the screeching noise is independent of your speeds - Engine RPMs or Car's actual Speedometer.

Originally Posted by ritz3645

Hi everyone, my 2006 Wagonr Lxi with 58k is having low braking - problem.
Fng cleaned and sanded front brakes and is of the view that brake booster needs to be replaced.

any advise on cost and trouble shooting please.

• When was the last set of Brake Disc Pads replaced? - Usually lasts between 30-50k depending on driving.
• When was the last time the rear drum shoes replaced? - The rear shoes usually last almost double than the front pads
• How much life was left on the pads?- Generally, it may so happen that there will be enough life on the pads but the surface would have become very hard rendering the brakes useless

I would suggest you check all this, get a brake fluid bleeding done and then check the efficiency of the brakes.

[anandjha]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

The "Kat Kat" sound could be the normal sound associated with the F10D WagonRs and even the F8D ALTOs and I suspect its is coming from the clutch.

I had almost given up hope. I am sure you must be busy. You're right when I heard it closely I found the clutch to be culprit.

Originally Posted by paragsachania

Other than this, I would like to know if the screeching noise is independent of your speeds - Engine RPMs or Car's actual Speedometer.

Use of the word screeching is due to my momentary lapse in finding the right expression. In fact I should have written creaking. Something which I discovered was coming whenever I pressed the clutch. Perhaps the clutch wire needs replacement. Do let me know that I am on the right track. Thanks.

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by anandjha

Perhaps the clutch wire needs replacement. Do let me know that I am on the right track. Thanks.

I don't think so. The clutch cable in bad shape will also hamper your clutching and de-clutching activities.

The reason I am mentioning about the clutch here is that it is a "known issue" with all the Alto and WagonR using the same clutch (irrespective of whether its VALEO or Ceekay, though Ceekay fares better).

Next time this Kat-Kat noise comes, just depress the clutch completely and I assure you the noise would just vanish.

Apart from that, you may simply check the play of your clutch and get that adjusted.

[ritz3645]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

[list][*]When was the last set of Brake Disc Pads replaced? - Usually lasts between 30-50k depending on driving.
I would suggest you check all this, get a brake fluid bleeding done and then check the efficiency of the brakes.

Thanks Parag,

Brother was using it for long in another city, so pardon me for not answer first two.

Today we just checked and sanded the front Disc pads, will get brake bleeding done tomorrow asap.

Originally Posted by saket77

The brake booster for Wagon-R will cost about 3-3.5K


Do let us know how it went.

Regards,
Saket

Dear Saket,

Thanks for step wise guidance, its just amazing.

Tomorrow, keep you updated Sir.

Thanks and Good night.

[funkykar]

I had a need to upgrade my Maruti 800 standard to a small and similar car with AC and Power Steering for dad and wife. Thanks Parag Sachania for not only inspiring me but also helping me select the 2005 VXI Wagon R.

I had a fixed budget in mind. Idea was to choose a small car and similar to 800 so that dad and wife don't have to adopt too much. It had to be from the MUL stable and since usage will be very less, chose a used one. Idea was to move to Alto/Zen(as they are almost same dimentions of 800), but I clearly had Wagon R(as its easy to adopt to this since 360 degree visibility is damn good) in mind even if I had to stretch budget a little bit solely because of your Waggy ownership.

My opinion thus far:
Looks tiny, has more space than any hatch, super practical, peppy and easy to drive yet frugal. Its been just 60 hrs and it spent few hrs at Mandovi for some rejuvenation.

My first car, the 2003 Maruti 800 will have to go now :(

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by funkykar

I had a need to upgrade my Maruti 800 standard to a small and similar car with AC and Power Steering for dad and wife. Thanks Parag Sachania for not only inspiring me but also helping me select the 2005 VXI Wagon R.

Welcome to the Tallboy club. It took me less than 500 metes to assess the condition of the car to give a go ahead. The clutch was recently replaced, the Engine note was crisp, zero vibrations or shudders, gear shifts were surprisingly slick, especially for this F10D which is not so famous for its Gearbox. Overall, barring the way the interiors were maintained, the car was a perfect replacement for your M800. Above all, like I mentioned you earlier, I will be your FNG when you owned this .

My opinion thus far:
Looks tiny, has more space than any hatch, super practical, peppy and easy to drive yet frugal. Its been just 60 hrs and it spent few hrs at Mandovi for some rejuvenation.

My first car, the 2003 Maruti 800 will have to go now :(

One of those few cars with a perfect Low end torque making city driving very easy. You would have noticed how easy it was to drive around in 4th and 5th gears at the slowest of speeds too.

Now that we have another Tallboy of the same generation, a Photoshoot is mandatory.